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Discussion Starter #3
I was just looking at your bolt in 60 kits...any thoughts on doing the same thing for the super duty 60???
Sorry no. It's a huge expense to go through the design of such a kit and given the limited market, it's just not worth it. On top of that I'm not crazy about the SD 60's due to a few reasons. Mainly I don't like them because they are metric and have limited aftermarket parts. I'm sure that will change but for now you can't go wrong with the 80's 90's Ford 60's.
 

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ate lug
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Your kit looks awesome! Considering a large portion of the steering on my bronco is bad, I will probably order this from you at some point.

Question though: You mention needing a HD pitman arm, I assume because the stock one isn't thick enough to drill out. So do you know of a heavier arm that isn't a drop pitman arm? Or would it be possible to swap that one rod end out for their Chevy Tre equivalent?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your kit looks awesome! Considering a large portion of the steering on my bronco is bad, I will probably order this from you at some point.

Question though: You mention needing a HD pitman arm, I assume because the stock one isn't thick enough to drill out. So do you know of a heavier arm that isn't a drop pitman arm? Or would it be possible to swap that one rod end out for their Chevy Tre equivalent?
Technically speaking, the stock pitman arm is thick enough. However, anytime your modifying something as important as a pitman arm, it's best to air on the side of caution. So due to safety and liability reasons we say and recommend that a heavy duty pitman arm is required. Unfortunately I am not aware of any aftermarket arms for our trucks. But some are thicker than others in the TRE area. So I would just look at a few different options and run whichever has the most meat at that point.
It is possible to do a standard TRE at that point. I've run one for the past year or so. But to keep things simplified we opted for the through bolt method. Either way the hole needs to be drilled or reamed out. Also reaming is more difficult for most people as they would have to buy an expensive reamer. Drilling it is easy as you can find a 3/4" drill bit for much cheaper than a reamer. Also, with a standard TRE, there is a good amount of lateral pressure put on the pitman arm when the TRE is tightened. Obviously that does not happen with a through bolt. So there are a few reasons we did it the way we did it.
 

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I was just looking at your bolt in 60 kits...any thoughts on doing the same thing for the super duty 60???
For a f250/f350 there is two super duty axle swap kits,sky manufacturing has one for the leaf spring axles,The 05-08 coil spring sd swap ct performance has the swap parts.For a bronco broncoair is it pretty much it for a bolt on dana 60.
 

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I'd rather be sleeping
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So do you know of a heavier arm that isn't a drop pitman arm?

I used a pitman arm off a 1990 F350 CC 4x4. It massive compared to either a Bronco or 2wd F250 pitman arm (the other two I had).
Apparently early Super Duty boxes had the same spline/shaft diameter as the 80-97 trucks, but the pitman arms are beefier. I don't know enough about them to recommend a specific arm though.
 

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ate lug
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Monolith, interesting. Ill have to look into it further. Ive yet to have an issue with a reamed stock pitman arm, but that doesn't im not interested in a beefier one :toothless


Boulder, I get what youre saying. But for those of us who have already reamed our pitmam arms, would you be willing to sell a kit that uses EMF's Chevy TRE replacement, or possibly just sell the kit w/o that rod end so I could source one from them directly? I kind of have a couple stock pitman arms reamed out for chevy TREs already.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Boulder, I get what youre saying. But for those of us who have already reamed our pitmam arms, would you be willing to sell a kit that uses EMF's Chevy TRE replacement, or possibly just sell the kit w/o that rod end so I could source one from them directly? I kind of have a couple stock pitman arms reamed out for chevy TREs already.
Yeah, we can do that. We don't have any chevy TRE's in stock but maybe we'll do that and have it as an option under the kit. Either way, when you order send an email stating you want the Chevy TRE option.
 

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imdabes
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Hey my man, my trucks been getting a few parts from your company (Black Diamond 4x4 up in WA is who has it). They put this steering kit on and its got a hell of a lot of bump steer. I think its the angle, have you needed additional stuff (stabilizer/drop pitman/ram) to get the steering pat with this?

I noticed you coilover kit comes with the adjustable trac bar with the raise on it, wondering if that would be better to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey my man, my trucks been getting a few parts from your company (Black Diamond 4x4 up in WA is who has it). They put this steering kit on and its got a hell of a lot of bump steer. I think its the angle, have you needed additional stuff (stabilizer/drop pitman/ram) to get the steering pat with this?

I noticed you coilover kit comes with the adjustable trac bar with the raise on it, wondering if that would be better to use.
Hey. Sorry for such a slow reply. I haven't been on here hardly at all recently as I'm a new dad for the second time and work has been crazy. If you ever need a quick response send me an email as I check it multiple times a day.
I've actually chatted with the guys there at Black Diamond briefly and it sounded like they knew what they were doing. In regard to the bump steer, it's all about proper geometry. Our kit in itself wouldn't cause bump steer. The kit is just the parts needed for a bomb proof steering setup. The key is installing it properly to match the geometry (as close as possible) of the track bar. If they are to far off, bump steer will result. Technically speaking, unless they are exactly the same angle and exactly the same length (which is pretty much impossible) there will always be a tiny bit of bump steer. All solid axle vehicles technically have it. It's just a matter of minimizing it so it's un-noticeable.
So they need to adjust the angles of the drag link and/or track bar to get them as close as possible. I'm not sure how much lift your truck ended up with but the higher the lift the harder this becomes because the other factor is getting the drag link and track bar to be as close to parallel to the ground as possible.
I personally run about 6" of lift (defined as the change in distance from the frame to the center of the axle from what it was stock) on my personal Bronco with our SAS kit. I have 40" tires and no steering stabilizer or hydraulic assist (yet). There is no bump steer and it drives great. Keeping in mind "great" is relative as it's a huge truck with 40's. It will never drive like a Cadi.
Hope this helps. If you need any other assistance with it let me know.
 

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imdabes
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Hey. Sorry for such a slow reply. I haven't been on here hardly at all recently as I'm a new dad for the second time and work has been crazy. If you ever need a quick response send me an email as I check it multiple times a day.
I've actually chatted with the guys there at Black Diamond briefly and it sounded like they knew what they were doing. In regard to the bump steer, it's all about proper geometry. Our kit in itself wouldn't cause bump steer. The kit is just the parts needed for a bomb proof steering setup. The key is installing it properly to match the geometry (as close as possible) of the track bar. If they are to far off, bump steer will result. Technically speaking, unless they are exactly the same angle and exactly the same length (which is pretty much impossible) there will always be a tiny bit of bump steer. All solid axle vehicles technically have it. It's just a matter of minimizing it so it's un-noticeable.
So they need to adjust the angles of the drag link and/or track bar to get them as close as possible. I'm not sure how much lift your truck ended up with but the higher the lift the harder this becomes because the other factor is getting the drag link and track bar to be as close to parallel to the ground as possible.
I personally run about 6" of lift (defined as the change in distance from the frame to the center of the axle from what it was stock) on my personal Bronco with our SAS kit. I have 40" tires and no steering stabilizer or hydraulic assist (yet). There is no bump steer and it drives great. Keeping in mind "great" is relative as it's a huge truck with 40's. It will never drive like a Cadi.
Hope this helps. If you need any other assistance with it let me know.

I don't check this often either lol :D

I may give you a call when its all said and done.
 
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