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Bulldog Keyless Entry installation

23145 Views 32 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  mkt2488
I finished doing this a few minutes ago. A couple of things though, I have never done anything electrical so feel free to point and laugh of any mistakes or silly things I did. I haven't had a chance to test the unit yet because I am waiting for my new door lock actuators to come in the mail any day now.
Sorry for the crappy quality of the pics, hurts me looking at them! Next project is to get a new camera!!

The unit I decided to purchase was from all the suggestions I read here on FSB and also cause I thought this is the nicest looking set. This is model number KE1702. They sell lots of different once and the prices were good. I got mine from ebay for $19 which is swwwwweeeet! I think they sell for about $40-50 otherwise. So what's in the box you ask? One wire harness, two keyless remotes, one reciever unit and one relay (used for shutting off power to ignition). The remotes have batteries in them.

This one just showing the two panels that need to come out. The top one (the one with the fuse box cover) only has two bolts (7mm) and the bottom one (kick panel) comes out once you remove the step plate and loosen the screw for the panel directly above this panel (Don't mean to make it sound complicated, really simple once you see it!).

This is what it'll look like with those two panels off. The loose wire you see towards the bottom left of the screen I think is going to the back to the subwoofer (ahhh yeah!) :)

This is a good picutre (well it's a shi++y picture but conceptually it's a good picture) because it shows all the wires running under the steering column. Lot's of crimps everywhere, I think the last dude who had this bronco did all that when he installed his sound system.

This pic is upside down. But it basically shows where the wires go from underneath the steering wheel. I don't know what the blue thing is on the left. But that rusty thing dead center comes from the steering shaft.

This is part of the bulldog system. This is the wire harness you are looking at. The plastic end you see plugs into the receiver that you'll see in a later pic. The little black thing is the fuse. The other end of the wires are all precut really neatly which I thought was a sweet touch on Bulldog's part.

I just took a pic of this sheet I downloaded from Bulldog's website. It basically lists the color wires and their location for my year bronco. This diagram is for 1992-1994 I think and I have a 1994.

I just wanted more room so I took the seat out. Pretty staright forward. Reach under and unplug the cable which is for the little seat inflation and then just unbolt the 4 bolts which I believe where 15mm. Use deep socket for the rear though. You can also see in this pic the voltmeter, the two keyless remotes, the relay (which I won't use cause I'm not worried about getting my truck stolen. My neighbor has a 1994 viper, a white porshe, a gorgeous 1996 impala, a CL mercedes and some other car that's old but I have no idea what it is). That black thing is the receiver and that other smaller black thing is my pager (in case my work find out that I'm actually having a good time working on my truck). The two wires you see are for the stereo system.

OK, I have never used a voltmeter before and don't laugh but I had to go test it on the car battery to figure out which lead goes where and what to select. Trust me, that took some time! :doh0715: My right hand is holding the positive lead which is touching the power wire and the black lead is touching something metallic on the body. Let me add something here, when I first took cover off the bottom of the steering wheel and looked at all the wires I almost took a crap in my pants! And here is something that you guys can make fun of for a long time: the instructions said to touch all the different wires until the voltmeter read 12 volts. And so I did . . . touched almost 8,000 wires and nothing showed up of course . . . can you guess why? well, first I guess I needed to ground the other lead and also apparently electricity doesn't penetrate through the plastic covering it so well . . . :doh0715: It's not that I'm stupid :toothless it's just that I wasn't thinking cause I was so shit-struck by all the wires.

So I had no idea what this plastic thing was until I took it apart. In the last picture you can see me probing it alien style and it happened to have some juice which means that's the power cable I was looking for. Apparently this thinga-magic splices into the power wire (which is yellow by the way) and has room for another smaller gauge cable to plug into it. So that's exactly what I did. The red cable you see is the first of the wires that you need to connect off of the harness. The way you see it is the way it was made by bulldog, isn't it cool? So I just stuck it into the back of this little brown thing (the metal thing you see goes in first) and the whole thing snaps around the power wire. Hey, it worked even if I wasn't supposed to do it . . . anyone have any thoughts on this?

Here is a better picture. I know there are two in the picture but I was using the lower one (you're looking at the two brown things). The red cable coming out is the power cable off the harness. The yellow wire is the constant 12V wire off the bronco. I have NO clue what all the other wires are all around.

Next is the black wire which is our ground. I just found something metallic and made sure there was no paint or smudge and just bolted the screw on top of it.

I unbolted the hood latch lever for better access. 2 bolts that were I think 6mm, I forget.

Here is a good picture. You're looking at the left kick panel space. The wires running parallel to your view are from the bulldog harness. The wires running up and down were wrapped in electrical tape and I just unwrapped a little to gain access. There might be a bunch of other stuff in the pictures you see that I may not mention cause they are self explanatory but please feel free to ask and I'll explain.

Using that sheet of paper from bulldog's website then this pink wire with the green stripe should be POWER UNLOCK wire. I didn't test these wires after cutting them which I am willing to GUARANTEE will come and bite me in the butt.

This next wire is the POWER LOCK wire which is pink/yellow. Cut down the middle and beginning stripping . . . the wires please, keep your clothes on!

Here is a closeup of that table you saw earlier in another picture.

This is the receiver box and this diagram just shows what is what. You need relays for all the other stuff like trunk release, starter kill, parking lights etc... which you can order from their website for like $10 each.

So this pic shows how the connections to the harness should be if you have a type C (reverse polarity) lock mechanism. The instructions take you through how to test and see what kind of system you have. Type C I guess is how most fords are wired.

Back to cutting the wires. Here I have cut the pink/green wire in half already. The instructions said not to use crimps and instead to wrap the 2 wires that you wanna connect around each other and tape them and use zip ties. So I did that for the brown-to-pink connection and realized that it was too time consuming and so used crimps for the other ones from then on (like the red one you see).

So here you see the connections I've already made. Basically I followed the instructions: cut the unlock wire in half and attach the brown wire from the harness to one end and blue to the other. Then cut the lock wire and attach the green wire from the harness to one end and the white to the other. That little piece of black plastic you see is just so that I don't mess up the other wires as I'm cutting away the top ones.

The instructions asked for another wires (purple wire with fuse) to also attach to the constant power cable. Which I don't understand, couldn't I have just connected it to the red one which is the first one I attached to the power cable?? Anyway, this time I used the exact method they suggested to splice into the power wire. Here you see me taking a little pice of the plastic off the wire (I used a scalpel that I snatched from the hospital).

Here I inserted something pointy through the wire to open up a little space to put the purple wire from the harness through.

And this is it, I wrapped the bare wires around each other a few times and then electrical tape over it and zip tie.

There it is! All pretty and stuff . . . can you see the zip tie? I haven't cut the excess part off yet. Just want to remind you that I still don't have the big picture as to what I'm doing . . . just following instructions . . . so many wires!! makes me dizzy . . .

I took it apart just to see what's in it . . . just as I suspected, nothing I can make any sense of! The little red thing you see on the circuit board is a screw that can be tightened or loosened . . . what's it for?

So here I cut the extra wires off the harness that I knew I wouldn't be using (the harness head is sitting on the left side of the picture, I know the quality sucks). I've also started wrapping all the wires that run together in insulating tape.

This is supposed to show the wires after all of them are wrapped and I ran them down the same route that all the other wires were run by the factory with zip ties. You can see here that I wrapped the two 12V power wires together as well.

I peeled back the insulation (or heat shield or whatever) to find a place to mount the receiver. Remember, find a space so that you won't kick it, it won't interfere with the gas or break or clutch, and so that you'll have enough room for the harness to reach it. You can see that for the amp there is a power wire running in already (red) . . . oh crap, I could have used that instead of looking so long for a power wire!!

Voila! See the box installed in the back? I just put holes through the insulation pad and zip tied the receiver down . . . and the harness is plugged in as you can see . . . the wires from the kick panel are running under the carpet . . . easy fit actually! The yellow wire dangling is the antenna . . . we'll find a spot for that soon . . . probably gonna zip tie that too! :)

Instructions say the antenna wire has to be as straight as possible. So I pulled it up straight and found a place to anchor it with a zip tie as you can see. Well, you can't see the zip tie actually.

Here is what the car looked like after I finished, not too dirty! And the next picture is all the tools, but didn't need most of them.
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hey cool write up ill be doing the viper keyless entry/remote start on the gfs for her b-day i will make sure to take lots of pics and do a write up
that looks like one major PITA-man I know now-pay to have it installed:thumbup
Nice install Mashori :thumbup....I checked out Bulldog systems last week looking into Keyless access for the Bronco I bought last month. Looks like you followed directions, so it should work fine once you install those actuators. Kudos for diving into it for the first time.... saved yourself some bucks and learned something new instead of paying someone else to do it.

Im waiting for my setup to be delivered..... I shoulda kept it simple and do what you did, however I had to complicate things and buy a Viper 791XV which Im gonna install myself..... :banghead

Congrats & enjoy the convenience!!
man, the previos owner sure did hack the crap out of all the wires under your dash.
FYI, just a tip for anyone doing something similar. Use some of the wire conduit, flexy crap to bundle up any wires near the steering joint. I have had that joint catch on live wire before, rip it, bind my steering wheel while throwing sparks into my crotch all at the same time. Funny thing was everything was fine for about a year and one day it just happened to catch. I almost filled my pants that morning.
good write up... so you didint have to use relays on the doors??? Ford likes to get overcomplicated with their electiral systems and they used a "5-wire" for the door locks.

or wait... did you have power doors/windows to begin with?
Thanks guys. The truck already had power door locks and all. The day before I removed the actuators cause I'm ordering new ones.

But here is funky part. This morning before going to work I thought I'd give the system a shot, I mean even though no actuators are in place it couldn't hurt to just press the buttons on the keyless remote. So I forgot exactly what happenend but I think when I pressed unlock I heard a little click in the receiver unit which is cool I guess . . . but when I pressed lock I heard the rear driver speaker make a little buzz for just a second . . . :duh
Should have tested the wires huh? :)

Then I turned the bronc on and did the same thing with the music on and the whole sounds goes dead for an instant (I guess in all the speakers) . . .

Let's just say that more pictures will follow once I get back in there and fix it all! :cry Anyone have any advice as to what I did wrong?
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I can't help you with the problem, but I will say that you will love the keyless entry.

The first mod on my Bronco was a remote starter with keyless entry, and I love it.

But for those considering it, shop around and you can often find a place that will sell the unit with installation either for free, or maybe an extra 40 or 50 bucks. More than worth the price to me.
That little red thing you said had a screw to tighten and loosen....

Thats the modulator pot.. it basically sync the unit to the remotes... you touch that.. no workey.

If you did muck with it.. get a screwdriver and very very slowly trun it while at the same time hitting the buttons on your remote untill it works ( o btw make sure the unit is pluged in )
Cool write up. I would like to post a small warning to anyone doing one of these installs. Not to put this write up down or anything. As a mechanic, aftermarket keyless entry systems/remote start/security systems are one of the #1 causes of electrical problems in the starting and ignition systems in the years following. If you do one of these systems yourself please make sure you understand the instructions fully, and have a decent understanding of your vehicles electrical system. The main reason these fail is poor installation. so let me make a suggestion to anyone making this sort of mod. Make sure it is not your first electrical modification. Make sure all electrical connections are solid (I actually would suggest solder and shrink wrap) And make sure you know exactly what you are tying into. (ie. finished and now stereo is acting wierd) These can be a great mod but, I don't suggest them for people who are unfamaliar with the spaghetti mess under the dash, especially since there are some expensive modules and such that these systems can back feed into and then you have a diagnostic nightmare. Just my 2 pennies.
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I might be able to explain your noise probs. I think that the wires you patched into for the lock/unlock aren't the right ones.

If I remember correctly, those wires come in from the driver's side door through the grommet behind the kick panel. However, the lock/unlock wires run along the top of the firewall behind the dash to the passenger's kick panel.

You actually might have tapped into your rear speaker wires, and the noise is from the +12VDC that powers the lock harness to the remote unit when you hit the lock/unlock button. This could be a bad thing if I'm correct.

To be honest with you, tapping the lock wires was the biggest PITA when I installed one of these units. I even posted a question here about accessing these wires (sometime around 10/2004). The fellas here told me that short of yanking the dash, the only good way of getting to those wires was the passenger kick.

I ended up fabricating a 4-wire harness which I fished through the driver's side door grommet (there's plenty of room). This allowed me to patch directly into the correct wires, albeit INSIDE the door instead of beneath the dash. It made patching into these wires ridiculously easy.

I hope this'll help you out once you get those acuators in.
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I think I know what you're saying . . . you don't know how helpful this is! I have to think this over a little so let me go meditate on it but thanks again . . .
Ya know... for some reason, I have my driver's door interior panel and kick panel off. Actually, it's been off for a few months, lol.

Lemme disconnect the door harness grommet from the cab side and shoot a few pics of what I did to get to those wires... Eh, I've been meaning to remount the receiver and run the "E-series" (extended range) antenna anyway. Hmmm... and maybe I should mount the Gentex rearview I got from Steve while I'm in the pillar. Yumping Yesus, I must love this vehicle.

I'll get those pics up sometime today.
Man, I've been getting shredded at work . . . I am starting work at a new place so it's all foreign to me . . .
but anyway, so the pictures would be really helpful . . . but let me get this right, I would actually tap into the wires from inside the diver's door? so would I run the wires then through the flexible little rubber hose that carries all the other wires from the door to the truck?

So first I'll go in and undo the mess and reconnect the speaker wires :doh0715: And then I'll try to tap into those wires in the door . . . why did you have to make a harness? and what's the harness look like?
Damnation... If I could FIND my digicamera, I could do some good here, grrr...

"Harness" is a bit of an overstatement; it's actually just 4 wires wrapped in tape, lol.

See, once you remove the door panel, etc, you can easily find the two lock wires. Just strip a bit of tape from the wire bundle coming from the window/lock switch and you can isolate the two. I chose to make the patch as far to the right (closest to the rubber grommet) as I could to reduce the length of the patch cables. There was also space in this area, so that a patch wouldn't interfere with the window glass & door internals.

You can disconnect the grommet from the cab side if you wish; it might help if there is some binding when you try to fish the wires through.

The first thing I did was run a SINGLE length of wire through the grommet from the door side down the driver's kick panel. This is your "fishing line". It's a lot easier to pass ONE wire through there than 4.

Once that wire is through, you'll have an idea of how long your 4 patch wires need to be; somewhere around 1.5-2 feet is sufficient (but check- you might want to mount your receiver somewhere where you'd require more). Cut 4 lengths of wire and wrap them with electrical tape.

Take one end of the 4-wire bundle and tape THAT to the door end of the "fish line". Tape it securely, as you will be depending on that to pull the bundle through the grommet.

Grab the end of the "fish line" where it comes down below the driver's kick and start pulling gently. You can use your other hand to help push the driver's side wiring, while you pull the other end.

Once you see the end of the 4-wire bundle peeking out beneath the driver's kick, you can dispose of the fishing line and start making your connections.

Remember to re-connect the grommet to the cab side if you disconnected it; the opening & closing of the door will pull on the wire bundles that run through there, and the hole going to the cab can cur through the insulation, so... make sure that grommet is back in place.

Once I patched into the lock wires in the driver's door (crimp connectors and wrap), it only added about .5 inch to the diameter of the bundle in that spot, and the bundle nicely recessed into the interior of the door, no problems.

Of course, at this point, connecting the other end of those 4 wires to the receiver harness is a breeze. JUST MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH WIRE IS WHICH. IOW, color code the 4 wires on both ends BEFORE you fish them through (4, diff-colored ink markers do nicely).

I'm hoping my camera turns up in short order, but this really was easy. (MUCH easier than yanking the dash, lol)
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Thanks DeeSee, you couldn't have written this at a better time. It's nice and sunny here in LA, I'm gonna go and do it right now. That was really helpful, I like that nifty trick with the fishing wire . . . how did come up with that?

anyway, I'll take some pics and I'll post them once I'm done . . . :thumbup
So now that I know the instructions that were given with Bulldog were wrong, here is how to do it right. Thanks to DeeSee for telling me how it’s really done! Basically if you haven’t read up to now, the instructions say that the wires for LOCK/UNLOCK are in the dirver’s side kick panel. But they are not, at least not in my 1994. They seem to be running behind the dash. Or wherever the heck they are, they are not easy to get to. I tried finding them but I couldn’t. So as DeeSee suggested, why not just tap into the wires in the door. It’s a lot simpler that way to find the right wires because they are attached right to the lock/unlock button, hard to miss! Of course this takes a little but more work. And you have to go out and buy 4 more wires and run them through the little rubber tube that connects the door to the car. These 4 wires then will attach to the 4 wires off the Bulldog harness that control the lock/unlock.

Today all my parts came so I was able to really get in there. I don’t have all the pics yet cause it was getting dark but this is what I have so far.

Here I just basically took everything off that I needed to in order to get to the wires again. I should probably vaccum that area, looks a little nasty.

In this next picture you can see that I basically undid the electrical tape and disconnected the wires from the bulldog harness off of these wires. And since I had to splice into the wires, I now have 4 ends from 2 wires that need to be connected back together again.

So here I made the connection using those little crimps or whatever they are called. These are 18G. I had to use a little extra wire as you can see in the one with the little loop because I didn’t have enough slack and I didn’t want to risk them falling out of the crimps.

Here I just took all the screws out of the door panel. Then I took the screw out of this master button panel. Once I took the surface screw out this whole thing lifted off of the door panel. I then gently pulled on it a little more to get to it’s underside. I then unscrewed 3 more screw from underneath the buttons in order to get the face panel off. Once the face panel is off then this is all you are left with. DO NOT FORGET to take off the little screw which would be in the bottom left of this picture if I had taken a wider angle shot.

Then gently wedge your fingers between the metal interior door surface and the panel and pull gently until you hear the little pop and then the door panel should come off. You then will need to pull the panel out away from the door and to the right (because we are working on the driver’s side door) in order to clear the inside door handle. Then you need to disconnect the little light bulb (just twist, and it’ll easy out). I marked the area where the bulb would sit with a circle. And that’s it, set the panel aside.

My door panel had a tweater wire that I had to disconnect as well. Don’t get me started on what a crappy job the last owner or whoever did the sound system installation did. It’s a mess.

Let’s start testing stuff. My first test light exploded and threw sparks. I don’t know much about electricity but I know sparks and explosions are bad so I set it aside and pulled out my radio shack voltmeter. In this picture you can’t see that the black terminal is grounded to a metallic surface (without paint on it). And the red terminal is touching a wire on the underside of the button panel. Directly on the other side of the button panel is the Lock/Unlock button. This is the pain constant 12V source, as you can see it lights up without me doing anything and without the key in the ignition.

The red terminal now is touching the wire that is described in the bulldog wire chart (downloaded from their website) as pink with yellow. This wire is the LOCK wire. If I touch it with the red terminal it’ll read 0. But if I press the lock button (you can see me pressing it but that’s what my left hand is actually doing) with the red terminal connected you will see the voltmeter reading 12. I’m assuming that means that the circuit gets connected and the actuator motor will lock the door.

Sorry for the terrible picture but here you can see the red terminal being buried into the UNLOCK wire. This wire is a pink with a green line. You can see it in this picture, it’s sitting at the bottom right of the red probe. Sorry, I was too lazy to circle it. And again, here I’m pressing the unlock button and you can see the voltmeter light up.

Here you see the little rubber tube that connects the door to the car. In this are all the wires. And if you were to look inside of mine you would see an even bigger mess of wires and connections that you saw under the dash. See the red wire, taking DeeSee’s advice I’m using this as my fishing wire. I fed it through the bunch of wires coming off the button panel and through the whole in the door, now it’s dangling out right before entering the rubber tube.

I tried everything I could to feed the wire through the tube and I couldn’t. So I got out a large zip tie, attached the red “fishing” wire to it and fed that through the rubber tube and pulled it out of the other end before feeding it into the car. This step takes some patience, take your time because brute force may damage your other wires but gently pulling and pushing really gets the job done.

Now I attached the door-end of the “fishing” wire to the 4 wires I went and bought at Osh today. These are regular 18gauge wires and I tired to color code them to the harness as best as I could . . . I think I ended up getting 2/4 right that way. :toothless In the picture you can see the “fishing” wire on the right tied in a knock and attached to the other 4 wires that I bent into a loop. I taped them all up and started pulling on the fishing wire. And as you can see I managed to the 4 wires through the rubber tube and out.

Here you can see that I now manage to get the 4 wires into the kick panel area. In order to do that I just took the red fishing wire and fed it through the hole in the cab side. It comes out right behind the pull lever for the hood release. So now you can see I’m holding both ends of the wire.

That’s all the images I could take, it got dark and so I’ll add more pics tomorrow. But basically I connected all the wires and tested them and they worked.
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