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Just pulled the trigger on the JBG BDS kit and a set of Bilsteins. Going to just flip the rear shackles for now. Gulp. Now onto building those bumpers!
Good choice! I have the same set up from JBG on my '81 and have zero complaints. Only advice I have is to constantly check to make sure the pivot brackets that bolt to the front crossmember are always tight. Im running 35's with zero rubbing.

Also, I would maybe think about holding off on the tie rod flip. I can send you pictures of mine but the tie rods almost sit even with tie rod under the knuckle with a drop pitman arm and I have never had an alignment issue in the 7 years I have had the lift.
 

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I'll throw in my 2 cents...

I personally think Broncos look best with a 4" lift, 35's, and minor fender trimming... if you don't want to trim the fenders, run 33's or go to a 5.5".. I also like to keep the COG as low as possible. (you could probably get away with 4" and 35's without trimming if you stick to street and relatively mild offroad)

You should consider a steering upgrade such as the Superlift Superrunner steering... it helps geometry and takes some stress of the box too (vs a drop arm). I've used it and it's great. here's a link

I used to love soft springs, and soft shocks. And I still do for "go-fast" stuff, and most street driving. However, I've grown very fond of stiff springs and tight shocks for off-road technical type stuff, as I like to push my rigs to the edge and stiffer springs make it WAY WAY more stable (especially the rear springs)

I won't rant about body lifts, but I'd avoid that if at all possible, if you think you need more lift, go further with the suspension as long as you're doing suspension lift anyway.
 

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There is a guy selling a used super runner steering set up for broncos on Phoenix Craigslist. He wanted $120 for it. I never called because I didn't know if it would be worth it to buy it used fearing it would need a full rebuild and push the cost up to the range of a new kit. It may still be there. I found it last week and it was just posted recently.
 

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You should consider a steering upgrade such as the Superlift Superrunner steering... it helps geometry and takes some stress of the box too (vs a drop arm). I've used it and it's great. here's a link
Wow, that is a considerable amount cheaper than some of the other guys. I realize it’s not the same level of durability, but other kits go for as much as $2500.


Edit: Can’t wait to see the install @biggum
 

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Wow, that is a considerable amount cheaper than some of the other guys. I realize it’s not the same level of durability, but other kits go for as much as $2500.


Edit: Can’t wait to see the install @biggum

It seems like a fairly robust kit, and you could combine it with a knuckle flip if you wanted. The only real drawback to it is that it's not "true" perfect geometry, as the tie rods aren't the exact same length as the beams, angles don't quite match perfectly, etc. but it definitely gets rid of any noticeable bump steer (very noticeable after a lift) and seems to work quite nicely. I've put about 50k hard miles on one and it's still tight and solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Stopped by the truck shop today and they’ll install the lift, flip the rear shackles, and align for about $800-$900 bucks. Sounds pretty good.

Question in the shackle flip. I know the 1/4” custom stuff would be better but does anyone have experience with just flipping the stock ones on an 86 style? I don’t see any issues especially if I braved them up a bit.

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Front
4" the JBG BDS front kit with radius arms and new TTB and arm drop brackets with JBG 4" coils.
Am I reading this right, the kit comes with extended radius arms AND drop brackets for said arms?

Otherwise, looks good. I think its @Kingfish999 that has the reamer. Or maybe @TravisITGuy.

And whoever said something about keeping an eye on the bolts holding the axle beam drop brackets on deserves a cookie! I had a serious death wobble in my 95 f250. One of those brackets had completely sheared 2 bolts off and the other 2 had loosened 1/4". Any time I made a left turn over 40 mph the truck would start bucking like a 6000 pound bull. Took me quite a while to find the culprit. And I went through a pair of undies every time it happened lol
 

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Am I reading this right, the kit comes with extended radius arms AND drop brackets for said arms?

Otherwise, looks good. I think its @Kingfish999 that has the reamer. Or maybe @TravisITGuy.

And whoever said something about keeping an eye on the bolts holding the axle beam drop brackets on deserves a cookie! I had a serious death wobble in my 95 f250. One of those brackets had completely sheared 2 bolts off and the other 2 had loosened 1/4". Any time I made a left turn over 40 mph the truck would start bucking like a 6000 pound bull. Took me quite a while to find the culprit. And I went through a pair of undies every time it happened lol
I saw that too and tried to comment the other day but Tapatalk and FSB weren’t plying well together lol. My setup reused the stock brackets just moved them back.

Also, I don’t know if it’s me you’re talking about with the axle beam lift brackets, but I know I said it before, about the bolts loosening and the holes getting “ovalled” over time and basically ruining the brackets. Talk about a wandering front end!
 

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I saw that too and tried to comment the other day but Tapatalk and FSB weren’t plying well together lol. My setup reused the stock brackets just moved them back.

Also, I don’t know if it’s me you’re talking about with the axle beam lift brackets, but I know I said it before, about the bolts loosening and the holes getting “ovalled” over time and basically ruining the brackets. Talk about a wandering front end!
Actually it was @91FordGuy

But you can have a cookie too! The two remaining bolts that were loose, were pretty disformed from wobbling around. I put four new grade 8s in it with lock washers and all was good. Now I always check them
 

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Is it possible to add a washer with a leg you can fold over one side of the hex head, or find some bolts capable of being safety wired? Tack welded? Seems like some positive position retention would be a good thing.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
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Is it possible to add a washer with a leg you can fold over one side of the hex head, or find some bolts capable of being safety wired? Tack welded? Seems like some positive position retention would be a good thing.
I’ve considered even tack welding the actual bracket to the crossmember, but yes, you could do it other ways.
 

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I weld all brackets (for lifts, as well as the pivot bracket for that superrunner steering kit) to the frame. Nothing crazy, just a couple inch-long welds in places they can be easily ground or torched off later if need-be. Otherwise, yes, those brackets often get loose and cause problems, or start cracks where the bolt holes are, eventually.

About flipping the rear shackles over... I've actually done that on 2 broncos and run the hell out of them.. not only did i flip 'em over i scooted them down and put just two bolts in, then welded a small brace to the top.. pretty redneck, but seemed to work fine.

Here's a slightly cringeworthy video I made ages ago showing said shackle flip method (Among other things, don't do the single tube to extend radius arms it will bend eventually)

 

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Discussion Starter #35
So I swung buy Lowes and picked up an air hammer tonight and some other odds and ends. I thought I would take a whack at flipping those rear hangers. Well, the air hammer worked great, chiseled those heads right off. I could only drive one rivet out but managed to pop the hanger off and then remove it from the spring to get access to the other three rivets. Ground them off and punched them out. Flipped the hanger upside down and it hits the bottom of the body.

Well that sucks.

So I spent the next hour trying to get two bolts into the front two hanger holes which are buried in behind the gas tank. I managed to get them in with an extendable magnet that I bent to fit and a LOT of patience. I put the hanger back on and bolted everything back together. About 5 hours of work and I realized I've gotten a lot older since the last time I did this.

I'm going to order a set of those 3" JBG leaf springs, take off those ridiculous over load leaves, and bring the whole thing over to the shop and let them do it while I watch with a beer and a cigar.
 

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Sorry to hear. But it’s very likely how my attempt at a lift install would go, and the resolution may look eerily similar to yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Amazon had a set of procomp 4" leaves for $165 a piece with free shipping so I went with those. May take a leaf out to lower them a bit, we'll see when they come in. I did also order a set of tie rod flip inserts from SKY. Drill a .875 hole and in they go.

Good luck with your lifts!

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I hear ya brother. After kneeling on my front bumper for a few hours doing my steering upgrade, I was limping for a week. I have a bad knee anyway, but still. Hope you get things rolling.
LOL, yeah both my meniscus are torn and I think my shoulder has bit the dust now too. Ahhh, awesome. Anyway, I was glad to get it back together and I was happy with how easy the spring bolts came out, they can be a real PITA.
 

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My 84 has one ton springs on the rear ( no modification required), looks like a funny car with stock fronts (soon to be lifted) rides like shit empty but adding about 100lbs if gear it’s doesn’t feel like my F350 dual quad cab... add 200 lbs of cargo and it rides rather nice for its stubby azz wheel base (I love my stubby) haven’t tested it with my 3/4 ton dodge truck chopped utility Trailer yet.... but as my hunting rig we put literally 200-300 lbs of pulling gear in it (portable receiver winch, 1000 ft steel braided cable, 2 20 ft logging chains, survival gear, tire chains, chain saw and related gear, and emergency gear) in it it rides fine.... summer time it’s like driving with no suspension travel. But I love it, so a thought..... if your loaded up 75% of the tome 1 ton springs will lift the posterior region.
 
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