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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks, I was trying to remove my '94 5.8L EFI lower intake manifold this weekend.
Busted both front bolts despite soaking in PB Blaster and taking care during removal.
They both just snapped right away.

A very smart friend suggested the following:

The bolts are 5/16-18
Soak in penetrant for a day and drill with 15/64 and use an extractor
Since ya'll have been there, done that... I was wondering if you could recommend the least expensive screw extraction kit on Amazon.com for me to buy?
I chose Amazon due to being able to get stuff within 24 hours from them pretty easily via Prime.
And It'll cost less than an Uber trip to Home Depot or somewhere else.

Thanks!

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Remember you get what pay for and I have broke a few cheap ones... EZ out brand is what I currently use, take your time and start with a very small bit for control and work your way up to the right size but and keep the extractor square to the job. Good luck you’ll need it.

merit: you could try this one??
Irwin Industrial Tools 53535 Spiral Screw Extractor Set, 5Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOBF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cq04DbSKH21CQ
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, guys. I guess I just meant that I don't want to have to buy any of those $50+ kits that start getting super expensive.

I put the lower manifold back on.
Found a drill bit that snugged into the manifold hole.
And was able to use that to create a dimple on top of the bolt/stud.

Do you think I should drill it out or use an extractor?
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Another option is getting a diamond hole saw, small hole saw, and just get bolt out that way. Then keensert back to correct size.
Extractors in this area I have had mixed results with. Way harder to deal with a broken extractor then a broken off bolt.
Not saying not to use extractor but use caution and be prepared to just drill bolt out and re-tap hole
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If this goes downhill any further then I'm swapping the heads out!!!
Got a 3/4" deep pilot hole drilled out so far. Just waiting on the new left-hand bits and extractor to show up.
 

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The bolts are a pain to get out because they go at an angle. @dash_cam suggests you weld on the head of bolts to get the bolts bright red to shed the rust from them before removal.

Welding a washer on the broken stud may work. Then weld a nut onto the washer to remove it.
 

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I don't use extractors anymore, unless the bolt broke while tightening. If it broke while removing, odds are the bond is tight enough to break the extractor. I think it is much harder to deal with a broken extractor than to drill & tap the old bolt out.
 

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well...it would be impossible to do with the heads on the engine, but if you pull the heads you can run the tap back up from the bottom. there should be unused threads down there that allow you to get the re-tap in the right spot.

if you leave the heads on the engine then i wish you good luck in dealing with that.
 

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Oh man. I did this a couple weeks ago. I wire wheeled all the gasket off the stud and welded the crap out of a bolt to the stud. The bolts came right out for me since they were so hot. Mine looked exactly like yours do. If you haven't got into it too far go rent a flux core mig welder and weld the crap out of it. You can always drill it out if you screw the welding up. Mine came out super easy once they were hot from the welding.
 

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Sure does feel good when you get that broken bolt out. This pic was from a few weeks ago on a 04 Ford Exploder harmonic balancer bolt.

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Without heat you're likely not going to get them out whether the heads are on or off the block. at this point my recommendation would be to alternately heat and cool them about 10 times before you try and extract them.

A propane torch is not hot enough to damage anything, but a MAP gas torch will make the process faster. Heat the bolt, then spray cool water on it with a spray bottle. Rinse and repeat.

For the record, I typically use a small impact on the weakest setting possible to get these, and water pump bolts, out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Cool (and hot) idea. Pun intended.
hahah
The heads are getting tossed.
I probably won't have time to mess with the bolt before trash day.
195k miles on the heads. E7TE.
Potentially warped.
They would sit on Craigslist forever just to get $50 out of them.
I know because the same set of E7TE have been on my local Craigslist for $50 for months now. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just read that I may run into issues removing the head bolts too.
Gonna start Googling that now.
That would really, really suck if I broke a head bolt when replacing the heads this weekend.
 

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Man I was rooting for ya! Hopped to open it up and see a broken bolt removed with an extractor in it. Ya that’s a screw extraction set you needed a bolt extraction set, I thought I linked you one on Amazon?
 

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I'd doubt those heads are warped, especially with only 195K on them (look up a mileage thread and see how far these things can really go)! But if you have a spare set, you can always throw them on there.

Never had a problem with head bolts on a Ford before--don't believe everything you read. I'm sure they'll come out just fine. You might have a problem with the exhaust manifold bolts, but I'd doubt you'll have a problem with the head bolts.
 

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Man I was rooting for ya! Hopped to open it up and see a broken bolt removed with an extractor in it. Ya that’s a screw extraction set you needed a bolt extraction set, I thought I linked you one on Amazon?
@MojoJojo I'm curious which bolt extraction set you were referencing? The link you previously shared was for an Irwin Screw Extractor Set, not specifically for "bolts"? It was this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOBF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cq04DbSKH21CQ

Got a link to a preferred heavier-duty bolt specific version?

Thanks!
 
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