Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the 7 degree bushings, stock R/As and brackets.

I have one degree caster and was wondering if i had the 4 degree bushings if that would gain me any more caster?

It looks like i would still retain a nice pinion angle. Anyone else running 4 degree bushings?
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,026 Posts
94_chickentaco said:
I have the 7 degree bushings, stock R/As and brackets.

I have one degree caster and was wondering if i had the 4 degree bushings if that would gain me any more caster?

It looks like i would still retain a nice pinion angle. Anyone else running 4 degree bushings?
No, if I understand you correctly it would do just the opposite. folks usually have to run the higher number bushings to compensate for more lift (the more past 6" you go, the more you need bushing correction since the lift is tilting your axle forward (neg. caster) without correction), and for no drop brackets, or not much in the way of drop brackets. That's why cage and duff mention their arms have 4* built in, and where I went a bit overboard in selecting 4* bushings. Crazed will be able to confirm this shortly, but with him being about 7", with 2* bushings and the cage arms, I'm guessing he will see 5* caster (perfect). Mine is about 7-8* (a bit much).

I remember asking several questions on this subject before buying the 4* bushing. Hardly anyone answered, was like no one really knew wassssssuuppp. Sure would have been nice to know. Being a perfectionist if Crazed's ends up 5* I'll be pissed since his will be perfect and mine's not.:thumbup
 

·
Bitchin.
Joined
·
1,871 Posts
the only way to correct at this height is to cut and reweld the housing. i asked here and there about it, and thats the only way, because now your transfer case is higher, and you still have to maintain the proper caster... (i say this providing you dont go with specialized arms like that...)

- the F-ing college kid.


btw... im still looking for some used shafts.... i'll get back to you soon
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,026 Posts
84x4bronco said:
the only way to correct at this height is to cut and reweld the housing. i asked here and there about it, and thats the only way, because now your transfer case is higher, and you still have to maintain the proper caster... (i say this providing you dont go with specialized arms like that...)

- the F-ing college kid.


btw... im still looking for some used shafts.... i'll get back to you soon
huh?:popc1:
 

·
Bitchin.
Joined
·
1,871 Posts
if you think about it, when you move your caster, your pinion is still moving too. the geometry slowly falls further and further out of whack. only reason i mention this is because eventually you'd need to incorporate a CV joint (cardan joint, i know) or re-angle the pinion in order to achieve the correct caster and pinion angle simultaneously. he doesnt have a CV in the front. the u-joints are getting close to being at an undesirable angle.
 

·
Bitchin.
Joined
·
1,871 Posts
i see it as removing and repositioning spring perches, just like on a rear axle. see, you may achieve the proper caster, yes, but how the hell are you going to correct the pinion angle? only was is to "move those spring perches..."




just thinking out loud maybe, but its the best way to get it in spec...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,541 Posts
Clint,

I don't see how you could be having pinion angle issues up front. I never had a problem with mine binding when I was running a 44. And now with the 60, which has a longer pinion and 10" of suspension lift and 12" of wheel travel, 7 of which is down travel I still have no bind at the pinion.

The spot that's going to bind first is the drive shaft on the transfer case yoke not at the pinion. The fix for that is to "clearance" the T-case yoke a little. You should be able to get another 10 or more degrees by doing it.

Granted, I have a Mac Daddy 1350 front drive but it still operates at the most extream angles I can throw at it and it doesn't have a CV and my caster at ride height of the suspension is ideal.


...my .02 rabmbling...I haven't got much sleep in the past 96 hours.


...and Yeti...man up. Just drive the damn thing and stop picking at it.
 

·
Bitchin.
Joined
·
1,871 Posts
scott, i dont have issues, well none with the truck anyways... :crazy

i was just saying, there's only a happy medium to correcting the driveline angle of the dana 44. not like its a problem, but im talking about a "utopian situation"
 

·
Sway's jealous of my
Joined
·
2,856 Posts
Yeah, eventually you have to either cut and turn the C's, or cut the tubes and reweld them to hte diff. Either one is a pain in the ass. I know a guy that did a big write up on his "experience" doing that so that he could get his pinion pointed properly for the CV shaft and still have the 4-6* caster. Alot of damn work. That's what he gets for being 16"+ of lift, 44's, and a married transfer case. Divorced tcase and he could have saved alot of work...plus had his transmission be easier to drop when he fries it. Building his engine (again) now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
After cutting and re-welding your your perches you can turn you C's to the angle you need.

BTW, Cardan is the name of the guy who created the U-joint as we know it today. A double Cardan is a cv joint incorpoating two u-joints. A u-joint runs an eliptical circle as it changes angles, this causes the driveline to rotate in pulses. This is what causes drivline "vibrations". Having a proper angle at the opposite end of the driveshaft cancles this out though. A double cardan cv joint operates the two u-joints at opposite angles of each other thereby allowing different angles at each end of the drive shaft.
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,026 Posts
Clint you are right. But....

I don't see how you could be having pinion angle issues up front. I never had a problem with mine binding when I was running a 44. And now with the 60, which has a longer pinion and 10" of suspension lift and 12" of wheel travel, 7 of which is down travel I still have no bind at the pinion.

However, I agree with the above. Forget utopia, unless you've got something seriously awry, the typical 6-8" of lift is not going to cause the issues described, you will be able to get the caster where you want, AND have acceptable driveshaft angularity, though I do agree a CV up front would be nice. Not so much for the verticle alignment but mainly because these axles are also offset several inches further inward than the TTB they replaced. That combo makes it rough on the driveshaft (verticle angularity/misalignment and side to side angularity).
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,026 Posts
84x4bronco said:
i love stretching simple threads out... :thumbup
Surely, but you're making my head hurt with cutting and turning D44's.:doh0715:

Get a CV, lengthen Dshaft as needed (very careful here, not too long), and buy or make longer radius arms such that you can get that caster in the +2to +6 arena. Your Dshaft is nice and long up front, so angularity is not the problem the rear can be (my rear D60 also uses equal length axleshafts and therefore has the exact same issue as the front in terms of dealing with side to side angularity, so far, no issues whatsoever).
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,026 Posts
Agreed, but you also have the pinion pointing almost straight at the tcase. You can get away with a little angularity here......put a little angle in pinion by putting + caster into your axle/bushings/drop brackets (whichever, but you definitely need it). How's it driving? Wanting to wander a lot on you?
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i'd fix that damn spring first. slight angle inward will cure it!
Yeah, thats first in line. Have relatives staying with me this weekend, not gonna happen.

And shadow,

Yeah it wants to wander, return to center is vague and sometimes non-existent.
Real touchy
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top