1980 302/c6 , stock ignition , edlebrock carb , gt roller cam/block. I got the Bronco back together after a long restoration. The engine idles good in neutral , but it stalls quickly when put in gear. I have played with timing and carb adjustments with very little improvement. It drives normal and shifts through all the speeds , although a little harsh. It feels like the converter is loaded even at low rpms. Any ideas ??
C6 converter/trans issue
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Check your fuel filter and timing. Mine was doing the exact same thing....would drive great once moving, idle in park and neutral fine, but died when in gear. I rebuilt the carb, (edelbrock) changed the fuel filter and played with the timing, seemed to clear it up. Also. make sure your vacuum is plugged into the correct port on your cab. Use the passenger side vacuum port on the on front, and make sure you unplug your dizzy and plug that line on the carb when you set your timing.
Thanks for the input. It is the stock converter. I haven't hooked up my vacuum tester yet. It probably should have been one of my first moves. It may be dropping enough vacuum to effect the carb signal. I'll look at the engine operation a little more. But it feels more like a the converter is dragging it down.
Have you checked the vacuum line that goes to the modulator on the C6?
If it is dying when first putting in gear, but runs great after that, I would say vacuum, timing or carb problems. I only had a C6 torque convertor go out once in my life and it acted like a clutch slipping and going out.
A vacuum gauge will tell you alot.
If it is dying when first putting in gear, but runs great after that, I would say vacuum, timing or carb problems. I only had a C6 torque convertor go out once in my life and it acted like a clutch slipping and going out.
A vacuum gauge will tell you alot.
OK, I got the vacuum tester on the engine. It had 13" as is. After adjusting carb and timing I got a rock steady 14". It drops to 5-6" in gear. After looking around on some Mustang forums 14" is about right for a stock gt roller engine. I'll get a tach on it today and work on vacuum and rpm a little more. I checked for vacuum leaks yesterday (pcv, dist., etc...) and will check some more today. I'll run through a compression test today too. I may add a little shim under the rockers to see if that brings up the vacuum.
I checked for any vacuum leaks and it all looks tight. Compression test shows 135-140# in all cylinders. I tried to take the distributor out and it is seized to the pump drive rod. I destroyed the housing trying to get it out. I have a collet slide hammer at work that I will try tomorrow.I have a HEI style one to install.
I tried a collet slide hammer to get the distributor shaft out, but no luck. Time to try something else. I made a puller out of a 1" diameter nut and bolt. I used a 12mm-1.75 die to thread the shaft,and tap to tread the end of the 1" bolt. Then I made a spacer sleeve to go between the 1" nut and the block. I used some washers and a Timken tapered bearing and race between the spacer and nut. It worked nice. The lower end of the drive gear had galled in the block. The new distributor dropped right into place, so I hope the block has some clearance now. Tomorrow I will get the distributor wired and timed, so I can get on to having the thing idle correctly. I need to find out why the vacuum is on the low side.
I got the HEI in and wired up. It took a while to find a spot that I could use my existing plug wires. It started right up. I set the timing and let it warm up. Now it's time to plug in the vacuum guage. I was glad to see 17" instead of 14". I took some time to lower the idle and adjust the carb some more. Nice steady slow idle and 18" of vacuum. I hop inside and drop it into gear. It stays idling nicely, just like it should.
Looks like time to drive it a while and see if everything is good before it gets to cold (and snowy) to work on it outside.
Looks like time to drive it a while and see if everything is good before it gets to cold (and snowy) to work on it outside.
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iwas gonna say that maby you could try and take the vacuum advance off and see if it will shift. i had this exact same problem when i was figuering out my 351w with a HEI for my 88, i left the advance off and noticed it would actually shift and run smoother without it but with it back on it would jsut die right as its put into gear. but it sounds like you got it all figuered out so good
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