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Alright, this is by no means a full blown tech write-up on how to rebuild a C6, but more of a add-on for an overhaul manual. DO NOT attempt to rebuild an automatic transmission without a manual, since you atleast need it for all the proper torque specs and clearances. Keep in mind that there are a some differences between the years and applications of the C6, so you may have some extra pieces left over in your rebuild kit. This C6 I rebuilt came out of a 1984 Ford Bronco with a 351W that only had about 130,000 miles on it. This transmission already has the intermediate housing removed since I just left it on the transfer case. I rebuilt it using a TCI Truck Master rebuild kit. You will need basic hand tools, a good set of sockets and wrenches, and only one special tool, a clutch spring compressor for the reverse-high clutch assembly. http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produ...1831&mscssid=ET52P31HS9D78NF02D5A8LL79RTJ27C2

WARNING!!
This is not a typical rebuild. This transmission is not broken. This transmission worked fine when it was removed, I am only rebuilding it because if I am going to go through the trouble of a tranny swap, I would prefer to swap in a rebuild unit, not a used one. There may be parts broken in the tranny that you are working on that do not come in the overhaul kit. If that is the case, this write-up may not cover what you are looking for.

You need me: http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297024

The rebuild kit: http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=296992

The tranny:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=296993
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=295246
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=295239
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=295236

Be patient and take your time. Expect to spend about 8-12 hours doing this as it takes time to clean all of the old parts, disassemble, and reassemble. It is very important that everything stay as clean as possible since dirt is your tranny's worst enemy. Make sure you have a good, clean place to work on the tranny and lots of brake parts cleaner and rags. You will also need a can of Vaseline or other petroleum based jelly. Clean the the tranny as best you can with degreaser and scrubbing, you want to get rid of all the loose dirt on the outside of the case so that it can't find its way onto your work surface or parts.

Disassembly:

Step 1: Remove the intermediate servo cover and piston.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=295247

Step 2: Remove the governor off the output shaft.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=295248

Step 3: Remove kickdown lever and neutral safety switch.
(Kickdown lever missing from photos, I "salvaged" it for another project.)
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=295250

Step 4: Remove band adjusting locknut and screw.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=295250

Step 5: Remove vacuum modulator assembly.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=295249

Step 6: Remove tranny pan and filter. You should have this.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297001

Step 7: Remove the valve body. You can see the inside much better now.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297002

Step 8: Remove the intermediate band apply strut and anchor strut.
The two pieces on opposite sides the the intermediate band.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297003

Step 9: Removing the front pump. This is done by prying foward on the input shell to push the pump out....after you have removed the bolts of course.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=296993
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297076

Step 10: Slide out the intermediate band and then pull out the the clutch assemblies.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297006
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297005

Step 11: Take apart the clutch assemblies.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297007
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297008
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297009
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297010
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297011
Old clutches still looked good:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297083
Clutch spring compressor tool on reverse-high clutch pack.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297012
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297013
After tool is used:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297014
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297015
Forward planetary gear:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297018
Reverse planetary gear:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297019
Input shell: (In the background)
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297017

Step 12: Remove the output shaft.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297016
Almost empty:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297084
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297085

Step 13: Remove the governor distributor:
Part with the 2 fluid tubes coming out of it.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297039

Step 14: Check your park gear and pawl.
These become visible once you remove the governor distributor.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297087
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297088

That is pretty much it as far as disassembly goes. I did not remove the one-way clutch race or the low-reverse piston since they both looked fine.

Now is a good time to clean everything, the parts and the inside of the case. Now is also a good time to paint the case if you are planning to do so.

Putting the transmission back together is pretty much the reverse of disassembly, except you will be using your new seals, gaskets, clutches, lock rings and other various parts. You will also need to soak your new clutches and intermediate band in fresh transmission fluid for about 15 minutes before you install them.

Reassembly:

Step 1: Rebuild your clutch packs with the new parts:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297020
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297021
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297022
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297025

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297026

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297029
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297031

Step 2: Reinstall the clutch assembly:
You will need to reinstall the outputshaft so that you can install the whole assembly at once.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297032
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297034
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297035

Step 3: Put in your new intermediate band, put in the intermediate band strut and anchor, install and adjust the intermediate band bolt and locknut, install the new vacuum modulator, put back the governor back on the output shaft, install your neutral safety switch and kickdown lever, and reinstall your intermediate servo:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297040
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297038
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297039

Step 4: Reinstall the pump: You can either rebuild your old pump, or buy a new one.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297037

Step 5: If you removed any of the linkages, hook them back up now:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297044
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297045
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297046

Step 6: The valve body:
The TCI kit came with its version of a shift kit that involves simple modifications to the valve body. Now is a good time to make any changes since the valve body is much easier to handle now then if you had to pull it out from under your vehicle. If no modifcations are being made, the valve body just needs to be checked and cleaned.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297033&original=1
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297041

Step 7: Put the valve body back in the tranny and install a new filter:
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297042
http://http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297043

Step 8: Install the pan:
Ghetto pan:
http://http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297048
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=297051

When you install your rebuilt tranny, always flush out your vehicles tranny fluid cooler lines and you should use a new torque converter. After you get the tranny installed, raise the drive wheels off the ground and run the transmission in park while slowly adding fluid. Once your tranny has the recommended amount of fluid, run it through all gears to make sure it is working correctly.

Well, that is pretty much it. Overall the rebuild is not that difficult, you may have to fight some of the lock/snap rings, but this is something that I would think that most people could do if they really wanted to.

Please do not attempt to rebuild your C6 based strictly on this write-up. Unless you have had experience with auto trannys before, I would not sugest trying to "wing" it off this write-up. I am writing hoping that it will help, not hurt, so if anyone has any questions, please let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Got the new tranny in yesterday. I was very surprised at how much of a difference there was between the TCI Truck Master kit and my old stock rebuild with a B&M shift kit. My transmission is also running 15-20 degrees cooler than it was with my old tranny. This is exactly what I was hoping for since I seem to be doing a lot more towing these days than I used to. I am also loving the crisper shifts with the extra clutches. Even with the B&M shift kit in my old tranny, it shifted way to soft for me. I am glad I decided not to go back with a stock rebuild kit.

Cost Breakdown:
TCI Truck Master Rebuild Kit: $160 / $10 shipping.
Clutch compressor tool: $100 / (I already had this.)
Haynes Ford Transmission Overhaul Manual: $20 / (I already had this also.)
Brake parts cleaner: $12
Rags: $8
Tranny fluid: $30
Vaseline: $5
Total Cost: $345

I also called several local transmission shops in the Yellow Pages just to see what they usually charge to rebuild a C6. With me bringing them just the tranny, and not the whole vehicle, the cost for a rebuild including parts and labor ranged from about $700 to $900. Every place I called would not include a warranty with the transmission unless they were the ones who removed and installed the tranny, which would cost even more. I guess in this case, it pays to be your own mechanic. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, its been almost 7 months and about 28,000 miles since the rebuild and the tranny is still holding up great. It has made a very noticable improvement in the towing characteristics when compared to the old tranny. Dropped the pan to change the filter about 3 weeks ago and the tranny was extremely clean inside, like I just rebuilt it. I am still very happy with the results of this rebuild, and have recommended the TCI truck master kit to several people I know with C6's. Hope this write-up has helped some of you guys.
 

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You stated that you should use a new torque conveter when rebuilding a tranny. Did you use your old one or did you buy a new one? Also does the manual have guidelines on how to inspect the torque converter if you do use the old one?
 

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Is there a way to download and print all the pics you have. I have the ford factory manual, i have the donor tranny, i am buying a master rebuild kit and converter, i am just a picture kind of guy. I like to see what i am doing.
 

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A picture says a thousand words and man thats alot of pics. Thanks for takeing all that time and shareing with everyone. Good job.
 

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Sure Bro. thats a sweet deal call me and we will work out the details my cell # is 864-376-9283 Thanx JC aka wildthang461
 

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Good write-up. It will come in handy for me soon. :thumbup

What do you know about doing the E4OD planetary swap? I've been trying to find some more info on it for when I do my C6 swap. Since I'll have an E4OD coming out, I'd like to make the swap if it's just a drop-in deal, or relatively close
 

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The reason behind replacing torque converter is so the metal shavings and debris don't work its way back into your newly rebuilt trans well worth the extra hundred bucks
 

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Hello peepz, 1st time poster long time reader.
Just rebuilt the c6-4x4 got all gears but seems to slip in 3rd is this the band thats out of adjustment? or did "I slip"?
I thought I had it tourqed @ 10 ftp but i might be off as I was using a crow's foot 3/8 drive on my tourge wrench.
any help would be apreciated.

84 FSB/351/c6
ASE CERT Master Tech

oop's my street is a short one.
Hats off to the man bluebronco1966 and the original post. I woulnt have tried it without your post.
 
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