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Discussion Starter #1
So I live in the Socialist Republic of Kalifornia :banghead

Here is the problem...

Went to get a smog right after I bought the truck and the results were not so bad. I failed the 15 mph NO (PPM). I was at 835 and you can have a max of 690. On the 25 mph for NO (PPM) I passed it was 591 and your allowed 592.

So talked to the smog guy and he said that I could probably pass with a new cat. SO! I had a new front cat put in and now it failed worse!!!

15 NO (PPM) = 827 and the 25 NO (PPM) = 1009???? WTH???

The only thing I did to the car between smogs was a new radiator, heater core, water pump, thermostat (195 degrees) and new hoses.

how in the heck can it get worse with a new cat??? and what the heck so I do now???

Please any suggestions

I did drive the vehicle for 20 min before I took it to smog...
 

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Any idea when the last time the PCV valve was replaced? They're supposed to be replaced every time the spark plugs are swapped, and are an important part of emission control when it comes to touchy stuff like smogging.

It's a pretty cheap and easy shot in the dark, which should probably be done anyway. It almost seems like, when parts start to get replaced, other parts start acting up, as if the truck is trying to let us know something...
 

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A broke kid with a bronco
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Rubbing alcohol....


Look up six liters thread with his smog test. Fail his too but got it to pass after.
 

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fixing a emissions system to pass smog when one gas is failing is too hard to do when all the gases and limits are not posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
FIRST TEST %CO2 %O2 HC(PPM) CO% NO(PPM)
Test RPM MEAS MEAS MAX AVE MEAS MAX AVE MEAS MAX AVE MEAS
15 mph 1422 14.58 0.29 103 52 90 0.44 0.05 0.17 690 357 835
25mph 1073 14.86 0.22 73 41 38 0.58 0.07 0.05 592 304 591



SECOND TEST %CO2 %O2 HC(PPM) CO% NO(PPM)
Test RPM MEAS MEAS MAX AVE MEAS MAX AVE MEAS MAX AVE MEAS
15 mph 1430 14.84 0.32 103 52 17 0.44 0.05 0 690 357 827
25mph 1073 14.7 0.054 73 41 18 0.58 0.07 0 592 304 1009
 

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retard your timing to 7 but no less! then tune her up plugs wires cap rotor replace the oxygen sensor and you should be good...i work at a smog shop in nor cali
 

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Oh ya and make sure your egr is working good thats one main contributer to the nox gas the tech should do a functional check on it but u may wanna double check alotta guys just skip that part
 

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FIRST TEST %CO2 %O2 HC(PPM) CO% NO(PPM)
Test RPM MEAS MEAS MAX AVE MEAS MAX AVE MEAS MAX AVE MEAS
15 mph 1422 14.58 0.29 103 52 90 0.44 0.05 0.17 690 357 835
25mph 1073 14.86 0.22 73 41 38 0.58 0.07 0.05 592 304 591



SECOND TEST %CO2 %O2 HC(PPM) CO% NO(PPM)
Test RPM MEAS MEAS MAX AVE MEAS MAX AVE MEAS MAX AVE MEAS
15 mph 1430 14.84 0.32 103 52 17 0.44 0.05 0 690 357 827
25mph 1073 14.7 0.054 73 41 18 0.58 0.07 0 592 304 1009

that is so cobbled together it is too hard for my old eyes to read.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys...a tune up and new EGR are already in the garage waiting for me to install...and I forgot to say I already put in a new O2....

again, thank guys!
 

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All very good suggestions here so keep this in mind, I just went for Cali smog a few weeks ago and this is my second time using this procedure I learned from FSB so check the thread by Sixlitre ~ I done failed my smog test (tears) ~ and revew ALL of it, worth it's weight in gold bar none.

Start with a new set of cheap Autolite plugs the day before, back timing down to 7-8 degrees BTDC, drive the vehicle for one hour and right before you pull in to test, park somewhere discrete and add 2 x 32 oz. bottles = 64 oz. = 1/2 gallon of 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to 1/4 tank of gas then go right in to test BUT throw the empty bottles away DO NOT leave them in the truck....lol lol...and make sure there's no tell tale signs around the fuel filler neck.

You can buy the 91% alcohol in any supermarket pharmacy, Walmart, Rite-Aide etc. etc. and costs $5-6.00 max.

The only time you might consider replacing the O2 sensor is if it's approaching or at 30K miles or more because that's the life cycle.....use Bosch or Motorcraft for quality replacement.


What ever "question/s" they ask regarding how long or distance etc. etc. you drove before you got there just say NO, I just drove from house...play dumb.

My numbers this time around were actually a little lower then 2009 though the engine was a brand new long block in 2008 and may only have around 10,000 miles but no matter this system works.

The auto stores are now offering a product called "Heet" for smog testing as a stabilizer for fuel .....lol lol....costs around $2.99 a bottle but I haven't heard any results of anyone using it.....IDK

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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All very good suggestions here so keep this in mind, I just went for Cali smog a few weeks ago and this is my second time using this procedure I learned from FSB so check the thread by Sixlitre ~ I done failed my smog test (tears) ~ and revew ALL of it, worth it's weight in gold bar none.

Start with a new set of cheap Autolite plugs the day before, back timing down to 7-8 degrees BTDC, drive the vehicle for one hour and right before you pull in to test, park somewhere discrete and add 2 x 32 oz. bottles = 64 oz. = 1/2 gallon of 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to 1/4 tank of gas then go right in to test BUT throw the empty bottles away DO NOT leave them in the truck....lol lol...and make sure there's no tell tale signs around the fuel filler neck.

You can buy the 91% alcohol in any supermarket pharmacy, Walmart, Rite-Aide etc. etc. and costs $5-6.00 max.

The only time you might consider replacing the O2 sensor is if it's approaching or at 30K miles or more because that's the life cycle.....use Bosch or Motorcraft for quality.


What ever "question/s" they ask regarding how long or distance etc. etc. you drove before you got there just say NO, I just drove from house...play dumb.

My numbers this time around were actually a little lower then 2009 though the engine was a brand new long block in 2008 and may only have around 10,000 miles but no matter this system works......the auto stores are offering a product called "Heet" as a stabilizer for fuel.....lol lol....costs around $2.99 a bottle but I haven't heard any results of anyone using it.....IDK

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
Actually i would stay away from bosh oxygen sensors ive had people put them on and it made the carbon-monoxide higher i always recommend denso or any other bosh o2s are usually bi-est to one extreme or another and also no matter haw warm it is wen u get the if your vehical fails the first time our smog machines make us warm up the vehical for 4 mins anyways
 

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Good to know for next time Brother, I'll look into the Denso O2 ......

Thanks ~ :thumbup
 

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retard your timing to 7 but no less! then tune her up plugs wires cap rotor replace the oxygen sensor and you should be good...i work at a smog shop in nor cali
If you are a smog tech in California, then you should know that smog techs make sure timing is set at stock, 13 degrees BTDC.
 

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If you are a smog tech in California, then you should know that smog techs make sure timing is set at stock, 13 degrees BTDC.
ok smart a$$ stock or spec is 10 btdc you can have it 3 degrees retarded or advanced from that point but usually to help nox emissions on a dyno you want base timing retarded as far as possible:twak
 

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All you have to do is check the "decal" on the core support for emissions information, my 86 is OEM 10 degrees BTDC though I set it at 8* BTDC and even with a timing light they didn't seem to notice....so it's anybody's guess as to what these tech guys really understand.....they crawled all over my BKO looking everywhere but the alcohol is the trick and I PASSED no problem first time around.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Finally!!! :beer after a 2 new cats, 6 litre tuneup, new EGR valve, new EGR position sensor, new O2 and all your suggestions on here it finally passed smog!

Again....thanks everyone for your help!
 
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