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Discussion Starter #1
Still looking into the options for repairing the rust holes inside my truck. The bed is fine, but the pan around the seats is in rough shape. I've been unsuccessful finding a 78/79 Bronco floorpan(in a junkyard) in any better condition than mine to use as a donor. Do the later model Broncos have the same contours, dimensions, etc. as the 1979? What about the F-series trucks?

Thanks for the help!
 

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I have a question kind of related to this. The PO of my Bronco ripped up all the carpet and didn't bother trying to remove any of the carpet crap that has been in there since this thing was developed. I have tried Goo Gone, Sticker Lifter, Adhesive Remover, etc. and non of these work. All it is is carpet fiber and 30 year old glue and then the bare metal of the floor. I really want to put a do it yourself bed liner in to prevent rust as much as I can but this crap just won't come off. Any suggestions on how to get it off?
 

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if you look in the build forum, you will find my thread. I replaced the entire front floor section.

If you click on the link (below) for my Webshots album, you can go directly to the pics and see/compare the floor profile.


 

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Discussion Starter #6
if you look in the build forum, you will find my thread. I replaced the entire front floor section.

If you click on the link (below) for my Webshots album, you can go directly to the pics and see/compare the floor profile.
Thanks, j.r NICE - I checked out your photos and the build thread. Both were helpful. At a glance, the pan you put into your rig ('89, correct?) looks very close to the pan in my '79. It may be time to expand my search at the scrap yards.

Thanks again.
 

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Agree getting a rear floor pan out of an 80-96 would work. I looked at doing that, but going to a jy and removing the pan didn't seem practical. Lots of work getting it out - lots of spot welds to remove. If you could get a plasma cutter to it then it might be easier!

My solution was to use flat sheet and the access panel from a tailgate - I didn't want to make the entire rear floor out of flat sheet. For strength I wanted some ribs. Just finished welding the last piece in last night. Here's before -



Here's after -



Still needs seam sealer in the corners and eventually it will get a spray-on bed liner coating.
 

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Thanks, j.r NICE - I checked out your photos and the build thread. Both were helpful. At a glance, the pan you put into your rig ('89, correct?) looks very close to the pan in my '79. It may be time to expand my search at the scrap yards.

Thanks again.
Yes,'89. In retrospect, it was one of the better improvements. I figured by the time I cut out all the old rust/repairs; spent a bunch of time looking for a suitable donor; cut and patched a jy pieces; I would spend about as much time as replacing the whole panel with a new one.

While a little different, I bought a rear floor pan for my 1965 Falcon wagon. I bought it "rustfree" from Desert Valley Auto Parts (DVAP). Cost about $450 with shipping. It ended up having rust anyway. Point being, if you don't see the donor, it's risky.
 

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my dad had some floor pans laying around for his ford fairlane and with light modification they were made to fit they also had the ribs in them like scoops
 

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yo,
Try this for fit;
Rear Bed Patch Panel 48in. x 16in.
# 3409 New 1980-96 Bronco 1980-96 Ford Truck Price: $35.00


&

Frame Saver Bronco Complete Kit Set of 10
Core support<br.2 Position #2 Front Of Cab
2 Position #3 Rear of front seats
2 Position #4 Front of rear bed panel
2 Position #5 Rear of rear bed panel
Fix rusted out body mount holes with thisproduct. When you are replacing body mount bushings and you discover the holes on your body mount brackets are rusted orthin, this product is for you. Just cut awaybad metal and weld on the new frame saver.


# 33108G New 1980-96 Ford BroncComplete SeAll Positions Price: $32.00



Rear Bed Panel, 48" x 16"
Item #24150 - New 1978-79 Bronco
1967-79 Ford Truck $35.00

This is an aftermarket repair patch panel and requires welding.


Frame Savers 1978-79 Ford Bronco
 

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Discussion Starter #12
While a little different, I bought a rear floor pan for my 1965 Falcon wagon. I bought it "rustfree" from Desert Valley Auto Parts (DVAP). Cost about $450 with shipping. It ended up having rust anyway. Point being, if you don't see the donor, it's risky.
Good point, and point taken.

Miesk, I actually have the repair panel you show down in the garage, and I may end up using it (and a few more). That said, I kinda like Scoop's tailgate solution. For one thing, the ribs run perpendicular to the cab supports. Gonna call around some scrap yards tomorrow and see what sort of FSBs they have available.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
to patch or replace

So I found a possible donor floor at a yard a few weeks back. Price is $450. I'm debating between that option and just patching the holes (sorry, still no pics) with repair panels. Part of my dilemma is that I don't currently know how to weld. The bids I've gotten for the welding range from $800 to $1000. That puts the floor fix at $1200 potentially, which is way more than I'd like to spend (also it puts me in a bad mood because I didn't do the work myself, which I prefer).

I'll have some time this summer to learn welding, at which point I plan on doing the patching myself. I've read some comments on here questioning the strength of the floor with patches rather than an entire floor replacement. Forgive my ignorance, but I don't see how the floor could be any weaker than it is right now, looking like swiss cheese, and from a structural perspective it seems fine.

What do y'all think?
 

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For what it's worth, I picked up a super cheap piece of 10 gauage steel, cut out the rusted crap, and welded the whole thing in. I'd never welded before and launched right into it. Super easy. The only piece of advice I can give (was given to me first) is to work from opposite ends or on opposite sides, don't weld more than about an inch or two at a time when, especially when welding a heavier gauge to a lighter gauge (such as in my case) to prevent distortion (warping). I also welded it from underneath to make sure I didn't have a gap anywhere, then spraybombed the whole underside with that tar-like paint to prevent or at least slow down the rust. Inside, I just primered with cheap-ass primer, worked fine. I ended up re-doing the whole bed in the same manner (that was a bit harder.....). GL!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks to you both - that's encouraging. Looking forward to learning to weld. It's been a long time coming.
 

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I never thought to ask if there were any differences in the rear seat footwells between the years. I need to patch the areas right behind the seats, and would look into that option. Good idea! Loving this forum!
 
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