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But what does mine say?
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I don't understand why you would want to do that, unless you screw somthin up and wanted to limp home. He was talkin about the rear right?
 

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Ogeechee 4x4 said:
it's really easy... you follow a link to a page that doesn't exist:twak
Or get a pc that actually works.:twak J/k,:beer Works for me; btw, what happened to your post count? Says you only have 3 on my screen.......
 

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Project Lazarus said:
Or get a pc that actually works
yeah--that might help :banghead

Project Lazarus said:
btw, what happened to your post count? Says you only have 3 on my screen.......
i donno.. maybe a wire got crossed somewhere :shrug or either i've racked up so many posts, the counter has rolled over :thumbup
 

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King Andy351 said:
you have to have some form of a locking hub with a full floater, otherwise your wheel won't get power.
Hmm, I wonder how the D60s and 70s, and 14bolts work then? :goodfinge

A few reasons for wanting the full floater kit are: the bearings would be supporting the vehicle's weight, and not the axle shafts. That way, if a shaft snaps, it won't go rolling out of the axle tube. The hubs, obviously, work the same as the front, to make it possible for flat towing, and unlocking one axle if you happen to have a spool

All in all, it's a pretty good idea, just overpriced, IMO
 

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they have automatic hubs
the axle shaft has a flange on it that bolts to the outer hub which gets bolted to the drum or rotor just like the front end :twak no selectable hubs on the 60 or 14B unless you converted somehow
 

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OPB davids78Bronco
The hubs, obviously, work the same as the front, to make it possible for flat towing, and unlocking one axle if you happen to have a spool
How much is the conversion? I couldn't find a price list on the Warn site. So if you were to spool the rearend after wheeling you could unlock one side and then while driving on the highway you wouldn't be feeling the effects of the spool right?
 
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