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Discussion Starter #1
I did search first and there are plenty of threads about adjusting camber and such but nothing quite like the situation I've got. I did a balljoint swap, got everything bloted back together and put the tires back on, stepped back to admire my work and there's a huge amount of positive camber :banghead.

Now when I went to bolt up the knuckel back onto the swing arm I was having a major issue getting the bottom balljoint not to spin. I eventually realized that reason the bottom balljoint wouldn't stop spinning was because the camber adjuster for the upper balljoint had dropped all the way down into the swing arm. That was holding the knuck to low for the lower balljoint's taper to take and keep it from not spinning when I went to put the lock nut on. So I dropped the knuckel back out of there, and tapped the camber adjuster up alittle (didn't turn it or change its orentation) out of the swing arm. That fixed my spinning balljoint problem but now the camber adjuster has about a 1/4 inch of gap between the swing arm and it. I'm pretty sure this gap is the cause of my camber issue but I don't know how much gap was there before I took it all apart to do the balljoints.

I guess my question is how much gap should there be between the camber adjuster and the top of the swing arm?

 

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it should be further down than that, the tangs on the camber adjuster sleeve have to be engaged with the tab on the top of the axle beam. you can see it in the picture, the tab isnt engaged with the camber sleeve tangs. I'd say disconnect the tie rod end and loosen the lower BJ nut and smack down the camber adjuster sleeve in to place, then do it all back up.
 

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Side step it
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It should be down enough to sink the tab to keep the alignment bushing from turning & changing the setting.
Mines a Superlift one but you can see the castle type bushing has a tab on both sides touching against the tabs on the knuckle. Make sure you use a cotter pin to secure it too!! -Kevin-:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That pic isn't where it's currently at. I justed used that one to illustrate that is the gap that I am talking about. This is though...



As you can see in that pic the tangs on the adjuster sleeve are low enough for the tab on the swing arm to be engaged. I've tried taking the king nut off, knocking the adjuster down into the swing arm but it won't budge and I don't want to take it all apart if I dont need to. I noticed lots of people have gone to the adjustable camber adjustments but everything looked fine before I swaped the balljoints so I thought I could just reuse the stock ones. Maybe I'll try getting some of them and seeing what happens.
 

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I put those in when I had the 2.5" Rough Country lift with stock radius arms & drop brackets. I think one of the drop brackets was welded on crooked because it wouldn't quite align within specs but wasn't wearing tires either. So we went to the Superlift ones because they were the largest ones I could find on Jeffs Bronco Graveyard. Now I have a 4" lift with extended arms but still haven't taken it out of the garage since the swap, or aligned it, so who knows if I even need that large of a bushing anymore with the longer, and hopefully straighter, arms now!
I'd just take the nut off, pop the bushing out, lube it with some silver anti-seize, and tap it down as far as it will go without beating the shit out of it, and torque it to the correct foot pounds & call it good. It's much further down than any of us thought from your first picture. If you crank it too tight you won't be able to turn the knuckle. It doesn't have to make contact with the knuckle just enough to let the tab keep it from rotating....I think you're good! -Kevin- :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I gave what you had said a try DNBELOWBRONCO but have had no luck. Took the bushing all the way out cleaned them up then covered it with anti-seize and tapped it part way in, then slid large pipe over the balljoint to protect the threads and slamed it home with a mini seldge. It maybe a slightly tighter gap than befor but not very noticable and doesn't look like it did much for my camber issue. My only other thought that could be causing such an issue, is that because the old balljoints that were in the knuckle, were so worn out, that maybe to correct a negative camber issue at somepoint they put in some camber bushing to fix it, and now that I changed out the balljoints its giving me this huge amount of positive camber. I'm more positive than ever that I need to get the adjustable camber bushings now. I did notice that on the camber adjuster bushing there is some sort of marking on it that looks like it says something to the affect of 30* +/- on it, not sure what that indicates though.
 

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does the camber bushing only have one slot in it? or is there another slot that isnt shown in the picture?if there is more than one slot, try engaging the tab in the other slot. or go buy a adjustable camber bushing and put it together so it looks right.
 

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Here's my old one I found out in the garage. They are stock (1 deg) bushings & the slot in the side between the words in/out faces towards the truck. Usually yours will say what deg they are. Check the bottom it might just have a 1* (actually a circle not this *) on the bottom & nothing else if they are aftermarket ones. The top slants & the high side faces the engine, or away from "You" when you pop it in. -Kevin-:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah your pics aren't coming in, though I went out today and tried to get a pic of one of mine. This is the best shot I could get with the wheel still on.



In there you can kinda see that it's marked 0-30* and on the far side it says OUT. I'll get a better shot when I go back and turn the bushing around to the other tab slot.

EDIT

Went and had the allignment shop take a look at it the other day, and asked them their opinion of what i had done and they couldn't figure it out either. They ended up ordering some of the adjustable camber bushings and that seemed to do the trick, so to conclude no one I've talked to could give me a good reason as to why the camber would be so jacked up after just swaping out the balljoints. Its fixed now though.
 

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Hey guys i replaced my ball joints because i have neg camber but i still have neg camber the bronco has about 4 inches of lift do u think i need aftermarket alignment bushings
 

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Thanks 351w500
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Hey guys i replaced my ball joints because i have neg camber but i still have neg camber the bronco has about 4 inches of lift do u think i need aftermarket alignment bushings
Yes you will need them more then likely
 

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Does anyone have a source to by them from or part numbers
 

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i just went through this with mine when i put new balljoints in. i ended up gettin the moog adjustment bushings. they allow up to 3.2 degrees of adjustment. ccbrett look on rockauto.com they got them. K80108 is the part number.
 

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Same problem for me when I ordered the bj's from BGY (Spicer I think). Tried them both ways. The alignment shop put in adjustable camber bushings for me, that took care of it. I sure don't know why they came with the bushings they did though. Maybe they were for a lift kit or something.

BB
 

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@ ccbrett. 4 Wheel Parts has Pro Comp adjusters for the FS Bronco, they're fully adjustable for both caster and camber, they run around $50 or so for a pair.
 

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i just went through this with mine when i put new balljoints in. i ended up
gettin the moog adjustment bushings. they allow up to 3.2 degrees of
adjustment. ccbrett look on rockauto.com they got them. K80108 is the
part number.
Amazon sez that part doesn't fit my '91 Bronco.
Mistake or not... A-Dub fill out your stuff. :/
<------------------------------------------

Alvin in AZ
 
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