You can crank the torsion bars all you want, but it won't help fit the tires, because you DO NOT have torsion bars. You have coil springs. And you don't have i beams to rub. I don't know, but the tires might rub on the radius arms:shrug , not sure. They also might rub on the fenders at full flex. Well here comes some mud slinging so take cover.
I'm sure there is something wrong with this reply, but someone will correct me after they get done covering you with mud.
okay real quick before the main assult Im gonna hook you up with some info, prepare to copy.
I used to have an 89 with a 3.5" body lift in front and 3.85" suspension skycrate setup in rear. I ran 44s but it was a tight fit I probably should have upgraded to a dana 30 rear axle that would have givin me the additional strength and since that wouldbe an independant suspended military axle I would have had plenty of clearance. but for now yes you can run 35s but when you first get them make sure you break the tires in properly that is very important!!! I cannot stress this enough read this twice before you install your tires
after installing your new tires,
make sure you drive at full speed for 30 miles and then take the weight off the tires that lets the rubber remember the proper form with regard to the weight of the truck. It wouldnt hurt to have all your buddies ride along to help the weight part. After a good hour of no weight (all 4 tires jacked up off the ground) you want to put a protectant to keep the rubber plyable I would suggest cooking oil from the grocery store its the same stuff that the performace shops will sell you for over 80$. Make sure you use as much of the bottle that the tires will take. (use a good canola oil not the cheap stuff) now you want to run the newly treated tires for at least 100 miles at low speeds 20-35MPH after that try and feed any oil left from your bottle and go for 50 miles at higher speeds 45-60MPH it allows the oil to "bite" and will extend the life of your tires significantly. It will also keep the mud and snow off. Ohh and during that 100 miles DO NOT LET YOUR TIRES SPIN or "burnout" it will defeat everything youve just done and you will have to start over.
okay thats all you need to know for now bud, see you on the trails :beer
I cant belive you guys were mean to this guy he was asking a Really important question about his truck and you shot him down.
I mean, I remember when i first got my truck. I had popped the hood and was topping off my blinker fluid and i was thinking the same things. I remeber it clearly, as i pulled the dipstick for my Headlight Fluid. I Thought "Ill just tighten up them there torsion bars and it will run like new"
Im just so appauled that you guys would do this.
OK im done with my rant. I have to go back outside to finish my engine swap. (A Jeep 4.0L Strait Six is a perfect bolt in swap right???)
The real issue here is basic knowledge about your truck. Even if you don't feel you have the ugre or need to be a gear or motor head, you have to know your truck!
If things go wrong with your Bronco (and they will.... :shrug ), you need to have enough basic knowledge about your truck so that when the mechanic you take it to tells you what the problem is, you know if you're being misled or right out lied too!
This forum is a great place to seek and get help. But I think by the tone of the above posts, you've gotta realize, people are willing to help but want you to try and help yourself first.
Use the "SEARCH" button to browse this site for common problems and questions. Then if you can't find the answers you need, ask.
I would also suggest you purchase a Ford Manual(s) for your specific year Bronco. They pop up on Ebay all the time. As a back up, get a Haynes manual and famaliarize yourself with the pieces and parts of your truck.
Being able to impart the correct info also helps folks here give you the correct advice based on their experiences with these trucks we all love and hate.