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Discussion Starter #1
The bleeder screws are rusted stuck. After trying with 12 pt box wrench (first 7/16" then 11mm), the hex is rounded a bit. the 12 wrench has not spun on the nut yet, but feels like it will. Can I heat it a bit with a torch? Would that help?

PS. sorry for this second post on these stuck bleeder screws. I need to get those buggers out and I wanted to see if asking 'torch the caliper' in the title would get a 'WTF are you thinking!' response before I tried it.
 

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id get a six point socket or wrench, and always P.b. blast any rusted parts before trying top break them loose. and yes you can heat it up but dont get it too friggin hot or you could weaken the bleeder screw and have that twisted off in the caliper!:beer
 
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The Anti Yam!
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The last time I had this happen, I used a vicgrips. It took every thing I had to lock them down, and it destroyed the bleeders, but I got them out.

And no, you cant use a torch on your calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
clifton,
I did apply WD-40 twice, no go. What is "P.b. blast any rusted parts"? On my trip to Napa to pick up my new master cylinder and two new bleeder screws, I'll get 'Liquid Wrench' to try to free it up. Is there a better 'rusted bolt' fluid?
PS. socket will not fit. I did try 6 pt flare wrench. It seemed to slip a bit easier than the standard box wrench. Maybe if I had not assumed it was 7/16" and started with the 11mm I may have had better luck, but I doubt it.

Gacknar, I was saving the vise grips for last resort. The calipers get pretty hot in operation. I was wondering if heating to somewhere above the current ambient of 75ºf and to some 'safe' temp (175ºf??), might lessen it's strong hold while doing no damage. What if I used a digital infrared thermometer to make sure I did not get it above 'X' degrees?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
New vs. Reman. master cylinder

From Napa,
new $54
remanufactured $38

Reman. is probably fine, but for $16 I'd lean towards new. Any thoughts on new vs. reman. master cylinders?
 

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Well brake fluid is very flammable so i'd say putting an open flame right next to a brake line wouldn't be the wisest idea.

scaring up the bleed with vise grips is better then setting your car on fire.
I wouldn't risk it.
 

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not to mention the seals on the pistons probably wouldnt like that much heat. That being said, I make bad decisions with my truck so I'd probably use one of those propane torches...not an acetylene unit though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, heating option is off the table. ;o)

Any recommendations on stuff to lossen threads? Would I have much better luck with something besides WD-40?

I think the vise grips will be the answer. I am buying new bleeder screws. Just hope I can get THESE dudes out!
 

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PB Blaster works better.
I will never ever use anything except PB Blaster again.
 
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PB Blaster works better.
I will never ever use anything except PB Blaster again.

Same here. That stuff is great. Used it on my Rangers radius arm nuts that had been rusted solid for 200,000 miles. Sprayed it on and let it sit for an hour and they broke free with just a breaker bar. Tried heat and everything else I had. Had them red hot melted the bushings and everything and still would not break free. Go get you some pb blaster and put the torch away....
 

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the best stuff is rust eater its a green liquid and costs about 45 bucks but y wouldent you use a torch on a bleeder the seals are good for atleast 600 degrease and the fluid inside the calaper is going to make it a lot less when it gets to the seals just like when you use the brakes and as long as you dont hold the torch on the brake line it wont melt and brake fluid is flamable but that only happens around 900 degrease so heat it up break it loose and then let it cool a bit 15-30 seconds and take it out but dont touch it will be hot
 

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Same here. That stuff is great. Used it on my Rangers radius arm nuts that had been rusted solid for 200,000 miles. Sprayed it on and let it sit for an hour and they broke free with just a breaker bar. Tried heat and everything else I had. Had them red hot melted the bushings and everything and still would not break free. Go get you some pb blaster and put the torch away....
+3 on the PB.....best stuff ever for removing rusted up bolts/screws.
 

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+5 on the p.b. blaster. that is all we use at work. Keep in mind wd-40 actually isn't meant to be a lubricant/ break loose aid so it doesn't work near as good as stuff designed for that purpose

but be careful where your spray ends up going. You get it on the pads, and they will never be quiet again.
 

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PB Blaster and some heat. Your previous thread was mysteriously deleted and not merged with this one. A LITTLE heat (propane torch) to help draw in the PB Blaster goes a long way. I have used this technique several times with great success.
 
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Why not just go ahead and **** up the bleeder screws with the vice grips and replace them? Did you say that you started to round 'em off anyway? Sounds like a good time to replace them to me.
 

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Last time I got my bleeders stuck they absolutely would not come out.
Tried:
PB blaster several times a day
Torched till red hot (yeah, I know)
vice gripped till they were nubs
Craftsman stripped bolt remover
Hammered on smaller socket
Everything I knew to do short of welding on a nut and using that

They were complete nubs by the time I said **** it and bought a new wheel cylinder for $5 at rockauto. This was on the rear drums, I'm not sure how much more the front discs cost.
 

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if they are completely gone the best method would just be to hammer on a socket that is 1 size too small. Had a 63 f-600 dump truck to replace rusted brake lines, and yhat is what I had to do to get them off due to rust/rounded off by previous repair.
 
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