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yes, yes. one more fuel guage thread. i've looked threw steves old stuff and only found testing threw 95.

issue: fuel guage "stuck" at 1/4. it will move up and down a bit as fuel gets used. i will need to observe the movement closer, but it will fall to 1/8 than go up to 3/8 and than settle back to 1/4.

so the shop manual lists the steps, but i'm having a bit of a time with the terms and such.

1st is to "verify power at load side of the fuse panel" ok fuse 17

than its all checking the power to the cluster blah, blah, blah.

how does one check the ohms of the sending unit wire? "remove cluster and sending unit" y/lb wire.

so they want me to drop the tank or use the connector befor the tank?
 

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My first check on mine was visual. It took me 15 minutes to take down the gas tank and 15 to put it back. I'm glad I did it though cause my problem was a pinhole on the float, which I replaced and my gauge has been fine since.
 

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My first check on mine was visual. It took me 15 minutes to take down the gas tank and 15 to put it back. I'm glad I did it though cause my problem was a pinhole on the float, which I replaced and my gauge has been fine since.
i would like to check every thing up to the tank before i drop it. last time the fuel disconects did not disconnect and i had to replace the line.
 

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F G

Since the gauge is not below E or above F it should be safe to assume its the sender in the tank. Just bought one for my 96 and after a very long search Rock Auto had the lowest price.
Drop the tank and look at the sender with a digital VOM
PaulW
 

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yo C DUB,
Testing & Connector Pin-Outs in 92-96 Bronco; Sender Range: 16 Ohms Empty; 160 Ohms Full;
"... gauge that pegs past full indicates an open circuit (broken wire; unplugged connector; corroded terminal; burned sender) on the Y/W wire.
gauge that pegs past empty indicates a short to ground (pinched to the frame, body, or dash supports) on the Y/W wire, OR a sunk float.
gauge anywhere in between that doesn't move indicates an open circuit (blown fuse; corroded terminal) on the power (battery) side of the gauge OR a bad instrument cluster ground at C251 pin 9.
The terminals of C251 (& C250) are known to corrode & lose contact. Polish both the connector pins AND the film circuit pads with brown paper or a pink eraser. The larger version of C441(WPT454) was used until 93. The level sender can usually be disassembled & repaired by bending the wiper arm inside the plastic housing to apply slightly more force..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/744437_1

 

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yo C DUB,
Testing & Connector Pin-Outs in 92-96 Bronco; Sender Range: 16 Ohms Empty; 160 Ohms Full;
"... gauge that pegs past full indicates an open circuit (broken wire; unplugged connector; corroded terminal; burned sender) on the Y/W wire.
gauge that pegs past empty indicates a short to ground (pinched to the frame, body, or dash supports) on the Y/W wire, OR a sunk float.
gauge anywhere in between that doesn't move indicates an open circuit (blown fuse; corroded terminal) on the power (battery) side of the gauge OR a bad instrument cluster ground at C251 pin 9.
The terminals of C251 (& C250) are known to corrode & lose contact. Polish both the connector pins AND the film circuit pads with brown paper or a pink eraser. The larger version of C441(WPT454) was used until 93. The level sender can usually be disassembled & repaired by bending the wiper arm inside the plastic housing to apply slightly more force..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/744437_1

thanks for posting that up miesk, read it last night. didn't see anything about testing the 96 guage, just that ford changed to obdII in 96 and testing was not same. i'll go back and take another look.
 

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yo C DUB,
Testing & Connector Pin-Outs in 92-96 Bronco; Sender Range: 16 Ohms Empty; 160 Ohms Full;
"... gauge that pegs past full indicates an open circuit (broken wire; unplugged connector; corroded terminal; burned sender) on the Y/W wire.
gauge that pegs past empty indicates a short to ground (pinched to the frame, body, or dash supports) on the Y/W wire, OR a sunk float.
gauge anywhere in between that doesn't move indicates an open circuit (blown fuse; corroded terminal) on the power (battery) side of the gauge OR a bad instrument cluster ground at C251 pin 9.
The terminals of C251 (& C250) are known to corrode & lose contact. Polish both the connector pins AND the film circuit pads with brown paper or a pink eraser. The larger version of C441(WPT454) was used until 93. The level sender can usually be disassembled & repaired by bending the wiper arm inside the plastic housing to apply slightly more force..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/744437_1



looking at the shop manual and it should be pin #5 with a tach circuit 29 (y/w) so i can check the circuit from the guage harness?
 

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Y C DUB
you can test @ Tank connector; I forget if you have that floor pan access panel ..

I can't open that SM site for some reason;
so look in my site @
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=921
for:
Testing, Pin Point in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford
and Testing

With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read empty at 22.5 ohms and full at 145 ohms.
 

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yah, that access panel would be real handy right now, to bad i never cut it in. still have the panel i picked up from steve in my storage box. it will go in when/ if i find my rust free shell.
 

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Did you read that caption? It doesn't mention '96 being different from '87-95. The only difference is that there's no terminal in the DLC to trigger the FP relay, but that has nothing to do with the gauge.

Yes, pull the cluster & the tank connector (front of the xmbr), and test resistance thru it.

But your symptom sounds more like a bad gauge head. Read these captions:



On this truck, it got so hot I could smell it:

 

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been reading the above links, did i miss how to test the guage? i've read about the removal and than the anti-slosh modual, but must have missed testing. the shop manual just say's to pull the connecter from the sender and hook it up to a tester. if there is a fuel guage tester out there i sure don't have one.
 

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yo C;
ok
Steve wrote - gauge anywhere in between that doesn't move indicates an open circuit (blown fuse; corroded terminal) on the power (battery) side of the gauge OR a bad instrument cluster ground at C251 pin 9. ... etc.
In the Shop Manual; (using Steve's diagram for C441, etc. in upper right corner)
Go thru the drill that you can do w/multi-meter... Checking Fuse, et.
c
A8 CHECK FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT WIRE
Key off.
Disconnect the instrument cluster and the fuel tank sending unit.
Measure the resistance of the Y/W wire (F-Series front) or Y/LB wire (F-Series and Bronco rear) between the instrument cluster and the fuel level sensor.
Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes GO to A9.
No SERVICE the DB/Y wire (F-Series front) or Y/LB (F-Series and Bronco rear) wire between the instrument cluster and the fuel level sensor.

A9 CHECK CHASSIS GROUND
Key off.
Leave instrument cluster and fuel level sensor disconnected.
Measure the resistance of wire to chassis ground.
Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes SERVICE short to chassis ground.
No GO to A10.
A10 CHECK FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT GROUND
Key off.
Measure the resistance of the BK wire at the fuel level sensor connector to ground at battery.
Is the resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes GO to A11.
No SERVICE the BK wire from the fuel level sensor to ground.
 

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Thanks again, just want to get all my duck lined up and not waste alot of time. should start testing on thursday when i go on leave.
 

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got into it a bit this morning. checked the fuse and power to the cluster and checked the wires in the harness going back to the tank. everything looked with in specs. checked to see what the ohm's read from the sending unit and it read at 34 ohms i think there is 1/4 - 3/8 of gas in the tank from the milage. guess i'll drop the tank and see what i can see.
 

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yo, C DUB

Testing in a 96; from 96 EVTM; "...With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 Ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 Ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read at; 22.5 Ohms Empty & 145 Ohms Full..."
 

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yo, C DUB

Testing in a 96; from 96 EVTM; "...With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 Ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 Ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read at; 22.5 Ohms Empty & 145 Ohms Full..."
yeah, i read that someplace. i guess i'll drop the tank and check it out. if it works than i guess the guage is shot and will look for a new cluster
 

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You don't have to swap the whole cluster - you can just swap the plate that contains the fuel gauge. Or it's very easy to replace just the gauge body - it's the same as the oil pressure gauge body, from a tach or non-tach cluster. Just be sure to power up the gauge & make sure you know where it's pointing before stabbing the needle back onto the shaft.
 

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yo,
As Steve mentioned; here is his Gauge replacement link - http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/774679

and I have the F_ _D Cluster Replacement in a 96 info in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=921
including; "...The instrument cluster requires special handling to avoid damaging internal components. The cluster MUST be kept FACE UP or in the in-vehicle position. Leaving the cluster face down may result in a loss of dampening fluid used in the gauges. The lost fluid could stain the cluster face or result in excessive pointer waver..."


and Cluster Removal in a 95; part of Chris's Halo Reverse Glow Installation; miesk5 Note First, start Bronco & Shift to L or 1; turn key off; & Steve83 wrote, I always unhook the cable, then spin the wheel. You can't really get to the indicator end to unhook it - I do it at the shifter (wheel) end. There's nothing inherently wrong with removing the wheel assy. But when you're trying to pull the cluster, it's easier to feed the bare cable end back around the column & thru the wiring harness. If the cable sheath is white, it's probably about to break no matter how careful you are. If it's black with mesh reinforcement, you almost can't break it; "...the adjusting wheel is for 92-up columns
Source: by dadtodc (Chris B) at https://picasaweb.google.com/117624...fWByNj23wE&gsessionid=G5Bxwkltf5ll9v3CqRFsNw#

Cluster Removal in a 95 F150 (same for Bronco, 92-96)
Source: by gijoe4500 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170095
 
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