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I did done broke it
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Discussion Starter #1
Yes I am aware its less efficient. No I don't care. Yes I'm willing to do the work. Yes I would rather do the swap then find whatever is wrong in my harness. Yes the Bronco is strictly off road now, don't care about road worthyness.

So with that said I want to convert my EFI to a card setup. Most threads seem to go the other way so I went ahead and made a thread. So on with the questions...

1. What do I do for a fuel pump? I know carbs run at a much lower psi then fuel injection. Can I get one of those pumps auto parts stores sell behind the counter and just have that suck out the gas from the tank or should I get an actual pump for like a 87 carbed 5.8?

2. Obviously I'm gonna need a intake and carb. What should I get? I want to keep this cheap to start with just so I can see if I can get it all working nice. Then I can upgrade if I want. I figure at the very least I should probably start with a 4 barrel. But what kind and such I have no idea.

3. Whats the easiest way to remove most of the harness intact? I plan to run wires for my own gauges and make my own gauge cluster as I've seen others do. I'm also thinking of running my own stuff for blinkers and headlights and such. My rear blinkers have never worked consistently and I think one of the brake lights is goofed up too. So I was thinking of just making a big switchboard with a switch for most stuff.

Whew....maybe this should be a build thread...
 

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I just searched "carb swap" and found like 10+ threads on this
 

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A

A
Yes I am aware its less efficient. No I don't care. Yes I'm willing to do the work. Yes I would rather do the swap then find whatever is wrong in my harness. Yes the Bronco is strictly off road now, don't care about road worthyness.

So with that said I want to convert my EFI to a card setup. Most threads seem to go the other way so I went ahead and made a thread. So on with the questions...

1. What do I do for a fuel pump? I know carbs run at a much lower psi then fuel injection. Can I get one of those pumps auto parts stores sell behind the counter and just have that suck out the gas from the tank or should I get an actual pump for like a 87 carbed 5.8?

I would get a carb sending unit and electric mr gasket 12 s fuel pump. I installed mine under the drives door in place of the stock fuel filter

2. Obviously I'm gonna need a intake and carb. What should I get? I want to keep this cheap to start with just so I can see if I can get it all working nice. Then I can upgrade if I want. I figure at the very least I should probably start with a 4 barrel. But what kind and such I have no idea.

Get and edelbrock performer 4 barrel intake about $100 in craigslist if you look hard.

Carb either edelbrock or holley look for the off road model. Vaccum secondary manual choke. About 600 cfm


3. Whats the easiest way to remove most of the harness intact? I plan to run wires for my own gauges and make my own gauge cluster as I've seen others do. I'm also thinking of running my own stuff for blinkers and headlights and such. My rear blinkers have never worked consistently and I think one of the brake lights is goofed up too. So I was thinking of just making a big switchboard with a switch for most stuff.

Carb ignitin wiring and needs. https://bzerob2.wordpress.com/tag/duraspark/


Whew....maybe this should be a build thread...
 

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I did done broke it
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2,276 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So do I just leave the stock in tank pump in there?
 

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No, you pull your head out of your ass and fix the damn thing like you were supposed to but apparently decided you were too lazy to do.
Instead you want to **** it up more so you can spend the next several months complaining about how it never runs right.
 

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I did done broke it
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Discussion Starter #7
At that point I'd pull the engine and send it to the crusher. I am on my last straw with this particular Bronco. The whole electrical system is screwed and I don't care enough to fix it. Especially since its only gonna be offroaded. Theres no reason for it be to do what it does
 

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Older technology won't fix anything. Instead of running good sometimes it will run like shit most of the time.(and when I say like shit I mean like it barely moves). I've got a Honda carburetor on a Kawasaki engine (same size) and getting that thing to just run decent (not even right) has been a royal PITA. I considered Fuel injecting the damn thing so I wouldn't have to deal with a damn carburetor anymore. The Ozark currently has no power but doesn't stall out randomly anymore. Again carburetor issues. A replacement carb is $150 used.

Theres no reason for it be to do what it does
Obviously there is and From what Ive read quite a few things you haven't looked into. You haven't tested everything yet (and no it's not that hard) There aren't alot of reasons for multiple components to fry simultaneously so the culprit shouldn't be diffucult to track down. You just have to stop getting frustrated over it so easily. It's just a machine, unlike people it's not gonna do things just to piss you off. There's a reason for everything, you just have to find it.The people here are willing to help you but we can't unless your willing to try a little.

Especially since its only gonna be offroaded
Why? What is so incredibly wrong with it (other than electrical issues) that it isn't roadworthy?
Ive brought broken beat to shit machines back to life when it looked like a lost cause. And yes, that includes Broncos.
 

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I did done broke it
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Discussion Starter #9
Why? What is so incredibly wrong with it (other than electrical issues) that it isn't roadworthy?
Ive brought broken beat to shit machines back to life when it looked like a lost cause. And yes, that includes Broncos.
Its rusted to hell, front end is destroyed, electrical problems up the ass...just ask Unfer. He's seen her a few times and agrees its past the point of fixing unless I want to get a new tub for it. And I don't. I'd be happy to goof around with it for a few more summers and then call it good.
 

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Its rusted to hell, front end is destroyed, electrical problems up the ass...just ask Unfer. He's seen her a few times and agrees its past the point of fixing unless I want to get a new tub for it. And I don't. I'd be happy to goof around with it for a few more summers and then call it good.
Aren't most Broncos up there rusted to hell?
Pictures?

IDK, Based on what Ive heard the chances of you finding another Bronco that's any better in that area is slim to none unless you shell out a bunch of cash.
Either way I wouldn't want a Carb on a Freshly rebuilt EFI engine. Carbs wear engines out faster, especially when they aren't perfectly tuned. I have the internals of an oil pump from a Carbed 351 that was running way too rich. You don't wanna know what It looks like.
Swapped a carburetor onto an 85 Bronco with a 95 engine. Never saw that thing make it around the block.
 

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I've swapped EFI to carb before. It's not that big of a deal. As long as it's the older engine from 86 to 91, just change to the older distributor with the old electronic box (can never remember the name :duh) change the intake, change the timing chain cover and replace it with the older type with the mechanical fuel pump slot. Take out your electric pumps so you have a straight line to the fuel pump. It only takes about 6 wires to run the old carbed engines. I know this because I used to race dirt track and I had a Mustang GT that was originally fuel injected. They wouldn't allow me to run it that way so I switched to carb and it wasn't that much of a job.

Also, you may want to make sure to take the water pump with the timing chain cover. The older Ford engines had the V belt and turned the water pump in the opposite direction than the serpentine belt. The early to mid 80s Mustangs had the serpentine belted water pumps on timing covers with mechanical fuel pumps. You'd have to use one of those if you wanted to run the serpentine belt. The 86 or 87 and newer engines had a different water jacket and the older water pumps won't work.
 

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You do not need the pump in the tank you just need a pick out for fuel.

Carb is great if well tuned. I love my carb, way better than 'pulling codes'. If my truck is broke it is a spring, lever, or rubber gasket not a sensor or thirty year old computer acting up. To each their own....

Dura spark is the name of the 'box'
 

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I did done broke it
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Discussion Starter #13



I can shake the whole floorboard. The drip rails are toast. The floor on the passenger side is starting to go. Two windows are gone. Tailgate is destroyed. Its not that it cant be fixed its that I dont feel like spending the time or money. I just want something I can romp on during the weekends and not care if it breaks
 

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I've swapped EFI to carb before. It's not that big of a deal. As long as it's the older engine from 86 to 91, just change to the older distributor with the old electronic box (can never remember the name :duh) change the intake, change the timing chain cover and replace it with the older type with the mechanical fuel pump slot. Take out your electric pumps so you have a straight line to the fuel pump. It only takes about 6 wires to run the old carbed engines. I know this because I used to race dirt track and I had a Mustang GT that was originally fuel injected. They wouldn't allow me to run it that way so I switched to carb and it wasn't that much of a job.

Also, you may want to make sure to take the water pump with the timing chain cover. The older Ford engines had the V belt and turned the water pump in the opposite direction than the serpentine belt. The early to mid 80s Mustangs had the serpentine belted water pumps on timing covers with mechanical fuel pumps. You'd have to use one of those if you wanted to run the serpentine belt. The 86 or 87 and newer engines had a different water jacket and the older water pumps won't work.
Throw a damn electric fuel pump on a be done with it. That's way to much work for something like this.
Crunchy
 

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I did done broke it
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2,276 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
So what do I do with the in tank pump? I'm assuming it stops the flow of fuel
 

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I did done broke it
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2,276 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Throw a damn electric fuel pump on a be done with it. That's way to much work for something like this.
Yeah I don't care if its faithful to how the carbed engines were

just remove the fuel pump module and add a piece of hose to end.
Sounds like a plan

Oh the paint is bubbling everywhere and the clear coat is peeling everywhere too
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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This truck IS NOT WORTH THE EFFORT TO FIX THE EFI!!!! I've seen it in person, driven it, and ridden in it. It would cost THOUSANDS even with A-Aron doing the work to make it even remotely safe, much less daily driver reliable.

It will serve the rest of its days off road only, and then get crushed once the body falls off. I typically don't support carb swaps but in this case I do.

I'd probably bypass the high pressure pump (eliminate it and run rubber hose in its place), try to run it on just the tank pump (since that's low pressure anyway), regulate it down, swap on an old carb/intake from a carbed 351, get a 1 wire HEI dizzy and drive it until it dies. F the harness, F the gauges, F the screwy tail-lamps, if it's offroad only who cares if the turn signals don't work perfect.
 

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I did done broke it
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Discussion Starter #19
Well a gas gauge and whatnot would still be nice....lights are good for night time driving and gas station runs and whatnot
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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Offroad only? Bring a couple 5gal cans in the burb. Don't take this thing on the street. Ever. Again.
 
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