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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter #1
Got the carpet out... No idea what was under it... Looked like some foil lined thin set wood... Then there were wood (?) slats in all the floor channels to level it out. What the hell Micky mouse crap is that? Is that really how they did it back then? What a mess. Little bit of rust. Looks mostly surface cept around the back seat locking mechanism mounting area. That might go a little deeper then surface. Glad I decided to pull the carpet now instead of letting it go thru the winter... That coulda been bad... Looks like I'll be doing some grinding and primer before i do anything else with the cargo area :frown2: all things considered it coulda been a lot worse... Anyone have any tips on how to tackle this feel free to sound off :thumbup
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter #2
It got too dark to get much of an after picture... I had to use a flash and it looks dreadful but... Some more after the clean up pix... I'll have to get some better ones tomorrow between thunderstorms :thumbup
Curious but what are those 2 bolts behind the seat locking mechanism for?
 

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Hell Moms, that don't look so bad all things considered.

Light Sanding on that surface rust sounds like a good start.
(Don't go too Heavy tho')

I'll leave the Primer, Prep & Paint to more Knowledgeable folk around here.

those two covers are for your Body Mount Bushings access.

You will be able to see them when you look in your wheel wells,
and from under your rig right in front of your gas tank.

Rigs looking good to by the way.

Later,
Dragon
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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I've never owned a bullnose but later generations used cardboard slats between the floor ribs, fwiw.


Looks like a good bit of work but very restorable, so that's good news.

One thing a lot of us have done over the years but usually just "when needed", is to cut an access hole into the floor of the cargo area to access the fuel pump without draining and dropping the tank. Sooner or later, it always comes up. You might even consider a preemptive strike but that's all up to you. I'm just tossing this out for your consideration, while you're there anyway.




Once it done and done right, you'll never even know it's there... until you need it. ;)
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter #6
Hell Moms, that don't look so bad all things considered.

Light Sanding on that surface rust sounds like a good start.
(Don't go too Heavy tho')

I'll leave the Primer, Prep & Paint to more Knowledgeable folk around here.

those two covers are for your Body Mount Bushings access.

You will be able to see them when you look in your wheel wells,
and from under your rig right in front of your gas tank.

Rigs looking good to by the way.

Later,
Dragon
Hey @White Dragon thanks for the info :thumbup I did some scrubbing on those rust spots with a lil wire brush tonight and most of it looked like lite sanding will get er done... only place that's gonna take a bit more work is around that locking mechanism mounting area. Maybe break out the naval jelly for that...Might actually need to break out a lil bondo too, but, we'll see. It's been years but I bet I'll remember how to do it.

And hey, thanks for the compliment. I think she's looking pretty good... We're getting there... Doing the carpet freaks me out a bit tho... Which makes no sense cause i use to install carpet... Should be a breeze... But... I'm a big chicken. :histerica but I'll do it. What's the worse that can happen :thumbup
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter #7
I've never owned a bullnose but later generations used cardboard slats between the floor ribs, fwiw.


Looks like a good bit of work but very restorable, so that's good news.

One thing a lot of us have done over the years but usually just "when needed", is to cut an access hole into the floor of the cargo area to access the fuel pump without draining and dropping the tank. Sooner or later, it always comes up. You might even consider a preemptive strike but that's all up to you. I'm just tossing this out for your consideration, while you're there anyway.




Once it done and done right, you'll never even know it's there... until you need it. ;)
Hey @BikerPepe` that's crazy. That's exactly what they seemed like was thick cardboard... U wouldn't think that would be a good rust inhibitor. Good idea about the hole for the fuel pump, but wouldn't that also leave u succeptable to rusting? Remember I'm in North West PA and eventually moving to Alaska so I want to make sure she's weather solid.
 

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Hey @BikerPepe` that's crazy. That's exactly what they seemed like was thick cardboard... U wouldn't think that would be a good rust inhibitor. Good idea about the hole for the fuel pump, but wouldn't that also leave u succeptable to rusting? Remember I'm in North West PA and eventually moving to Alaska so I want to make sure she's weather solid.
The evil Steve83 also did a great write up on cutting the fuel pump access hole:

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/33276-2

I was a little leery of using a saw or wheel to cut my fuel pump access hole, so I used an air nibbler (no sparks and no danger of cutting the fuel, return, or vent lines). It was worth it as I had to replace the fuel pump on my '94, and then 5 years later, I had to replace a sunken brass float.
JBG has a patch panel to replace the piece cut out, I rustoleumed the area around the hole and the patch panel, and it was rust free on the bottom five years later. The shipping might be a little high, and if you have a junk yard close by, a piece of F150 bed is the same rib pattern. (JBG is closer than LMC!) There's really not a lot of salt spray that gets up on top of the fuel tank, so that shouldn't be a worry.



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1026068
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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I chose a different route than the nibbler. We have at least a handful of threads on the subject. Main point is... a good clean cut, proper prep, a good sealant and I really liked the double sided, sticky rubber strips Steve83 used to pimp out. While I don't have nearly the rust issues you folks tend too, we have very similar weather and I never had a doubt it was done right and sealed well. Again... it's just a suggestion. Some folks just can't stand the idea, in and of itself. Different strokes I guess but I'm a lazy bastard and the last thing I want to be doing in the middle of a snowstorm is draining, dropping, swapping, lifting, rolling around under my rig, etc., etc. I haven't done it to my '95 yet but when the time comes, I'll do it again and feel very confident that it's the right choice and won't hurt my BlackBeauty. ;)
 

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-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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IIrc the strips on my 90 were thick paperboard, sort of like a thick cereal box material. Home Depot sells similar strips for spacing out drywall, but you'd probably have to tape 3 together to get the right thickness.

I did the fuel pump access cover too. Not having to drop the tank is a real plus, especially for trailside work. I followed Steve's write-up, & used a floor hunk cut out of a jy bronco. I checked the rib pattern in the bed of an f150 while there & it was also a good match.

As recommended I used a pilot bit & hole saw for the corners, but took some additional depth stop measures to keep from going too deep. Square corners are prone to tearing.

A stack of nuts.




Some pvc




And a center cut shear


I have seen video of people using a grinder to cut the floor, but showering sparks on a gas tank seal that you cannot see seems downright foolish. Most of us use methods to avoid that.

For the sealant I used what they used to call dum dum, which is basically a non-hardening putty. With that stuff opening & resealing later is not an issue. Search "dum dum" or "strip caulk". The stuff seems to last forever. I got the first roll 40 years ago when I cleaned out a guys garage where my pay was to keep whatever I wanted, but finally used it all up & had to buy a new roll for this project.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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Hey Pepe`, when you did that, did you cut a larger piece from another rig to make the cover?
Sorry I missed this Andrew. I got mine from Steve83 when he was still a member here and I was trying to convince him to pay the member/vendor fee to stop violating the rules. He refused and eventually it was one of the things that got him banned. Been many years but I'm pretty sure he was cutting floor panels out of junkyard pickup beds.


@JScatt - Totally right and my bad for bringing it up when it's not needed. :brownbag Sorry @BroncMom. :whiteflag
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Yo @BroncMom

Since you work with dogs, and have other outdoor interests and are moving to AK, might I suggest something... a rubber bed mat from any fullsize Ford pickup will fit really nicely in the rear end, and protect that nice new carpet you put in from mud and crud.

I did it to my 85 because i have no carpet. It makes crawling in there easier on the knees and blocks some sound and heat.



I cut around the seat hinges and a hole for the latch.



I chose to extend it out the front of the rear seat, and it just hangs down the hump.



Fits nicely around the wheel wells

 

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BroncMom's BKO is carbed, no need for a fuel pump access hole
But it does have a float for the fuel gauge... and it would make line access easier.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter #17
BikerPepe`;7245346[USER=38317 said:
@JScatt[/USER] - Totally right and my bad for bringing it up when it's not needed. :brownbag Sorry @BroncMom. :whiteflag
No worries @BikerPepe` I know u were just looking out for me :thumbup trying to be helpful n stuff... Can't fault u for that :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yo @BroncMom

Since you work with dogs, and have other outdoor interests and are moving to AK, might I suggest something... a rubber bed mat from any fullsize Ford pickup will fit really nicely in the rear end, and protect that nice new carpet you put in from mud and crud.

I did it to my 85 because i have no carpet. It makes crawling in there easier on the knees and blocks some sound and heat.



I cut around the seat hinges and a hole for the latch.



I chose to extend it out the front of the rear seat, and it just hangs down the hump.



Fits nicely around the wheel wells

Hey @BigBlue 94 ... Excellent :thumbup and i bet a hella lot cheaper then weather tech or other similar products. Thanks a bunch.
 

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I think it was 100 bucks, new at tractor supply. I got one for an 8ft bed to have plenty of room for customization. The extra that gets cut off one end makes a nice floor mat for the garage. And little cut offs are great for little rubber feet for things around the shop.

The rubber does off-gas for a little while. Smells like you're hauling a couple brand new tires. But most gearheads love that smell anyways
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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BroncMom's BKO is carbed, no need for a fuel pump access hole
What? You mean all Broncos ever built aren't exactly like mine? :toothless

Oops. Apologies for the misdirection. Glad you didn't cut any holes yet.
 
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