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Discussion Starter #201
Water Displacement formula #40 actually (I am a walking tome of useless knowledge). Buy it in 1 gallon cans - great lubricant for machining aluminum and displacing water, but it's not going to do much for what you are asking of it.

Boshield T-9 would be my go to but it's not easy to find. Amazon and Woodcraft will both have it. Hell CLP from the gun aisle at Wallyworld or slathering on any old grease you have laying around would be better than a penetrating oil like WD40.

You need something that's going to stick until the engine's striped for rebuilding.
Yeah, well it was the only thing that came to mind on my drive to work. I'll put something a little longer lasting on it when I get home. The cylinders were fairly oily when I put my bare hands on them to feel things, but after that coolant went into them I was a wee bit worried about rust. I just don't want to do what I did to my first 460 when I stripped that thing down 15 or so years ago. I took it half apart out on the street in front of my dad's house and let it sit through winter when I gave up on whatever it was I was trying to accomplish. It looked like scrap when I went to mess with it months later. All the cylinders were coated in nice thick rust. Fortunately (or unfortunately) it was easily taken care of with a .030 overbore. 🤷‍♂️
 

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If it’s a couple days Wd 40 and a plastic wrap for a couple “Days” should be fine. You said a while originally that would indicate weeks for me.
 

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If you ever need to leave something sit, running or not for a few months and no one is available to crank it once a week... drain the oil, most IMPORTANT PART DISABLE THE IGNITION SI IT CAN NOT SPARK... then put the plug in and fill the crank case with diesel fuel.... all the way to the top, check for leaks and let it sit........ once your ready to either drive it or disassemble it, you hand crank it for a bit to clean everything with the diesel additives. Drain it and refill with oil crank it either by hand or with the starter as long as the “spark” is still disabled to clean up the residual diesel fuel. Drain it and refill it again if your firing it up.
Disclamer: I’m no professional mechanic and all my shiza is old school so all the new junk 1990< check to make shire the extra junk Jan handle the fuel.

Edit: this also works for cleaning it just before you rebuild it.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
If it’s a couple days Wd 40 and a plastic wrap for a couple “Days” should be fine. You said a while originally that would indicate weeks for me.
Yeah, "a while" is one of those vague time frames. When my wife tells me "see you in a little bit" I figure it means less than an hour and she'll be gone all day.


If you ever need to leave something sit, running or not for a few months and no one is available to crank it once a week... drain the oil, most IMPORTANT PART DISABLE THE IGNITION SI IT CAN NOT SPARK... then put the plug in and fill the crank case with diesel fuel.... all the way to the top, check for leaks and let it sit........ once your ready to either drive it or disassemble it, you hand crank it for a bit to clean everything with the diesel additives. Drain it and refill with oil crank it either by hand or with the starter as long as the “spark” is still disabled to clean up the residual diesel fuel. Drain it and refill it again if your firing it up.
Disclamer: I’m no professional mechanic and all my shiza is old school so all the new junk 1990< check to make shire the extra junk Jan handle the fuel.

Edit: this also works for cleaning it just before you rebuild it.
I never would have thought diesel would be something used as a rust inhibitor. Interesting stuff, I'll keep it in mind.
 

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Chain saw bar oil is also another good coating, I have used this in the past.
Another good one is STP or Lucas oil additive, you know the stuff thats like super thick honey.

I agree on the just keeping it as is and then turning into stroker later with good heads. Good news is even if the D0VE heads need a little money put into them, they are still desireable used, so your likely to get it back when/if you go aluminum. I recently sold a rather crappy needing completely rebuilt set I had for $250.

Lots of people try to piece part engines togethor, they forget its a system and it ALL must work togethor. Anything not matched to the other and its not gonna run as best it could, especially the parts the move the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #206
I'm searching for a front sump oil pan with the plug on the rear of the sump (2wd truck pan) if anyone knows a source for one. All of the aftermarket pans I'm finding are car pans which is what this engine already has. I'm going to look around at the yards tomorrow morning and see if anyone has one and hope that I don't have to pull the whole engine out for it (ugh). I have a feeling if I do find one outside of a JY it's gonna equal half the cost of this $200 engine or even more. Lame.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
My plans are going perfectly! Not... Long story, but I haven't been feeling good at all lately.

I finally got the engine unloaded out of my truck, so I guess that's a step in the right direction. Took me a couple of hours, but I got it hoisted out, on the engine stand that was disassembled and buried in my back room (because I told myself I wasn't doing this again, hah), and managed to wheel it up the ramp and onto the front porch. That's about the best place I can work on it for now. I'll keep it bagged and taped shut when not being worked on. Less than ideal, but it'll have to do.

I managed to locally source a front sump oil pan with the plug where I need it, I just need to go pick it up sometime. Before I found it I checked the JY where I got this engine for other 460's to see what kind of pans they had and apparently everything after 79 (all I could find of course) has a rear sump regardless of whether it's 2wd or 4wd. I'm assuming Ford went with a different steering linkage at that point as that's the only reason I can think of as to why the 70's 2wd trucks have a front sump. The steering linkage is right behind the front cross member and under the rear of the oil pan.

Also discovered that a smog-era 2bbl 302 in a truck with a 2.75 rear end might be the biggest turd of a "work horse" possibly assembled. I couldn't get my truck, going in reverse, up and over the curb of the street from a stand still. I had to give it a few feet of a running start before popping the wheels up and over the curb. Terrible. Depending on how this 460 works out with that 2.75 rear end I may use the 3.50 gears that I still have from my Bronco's gear swap. I'm hoping I'll have enough torque to not need to though, because highway rpm is super low with 2.75 it's damn near an OD. 75 mph is around 2400-2500 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
My next scavenger hunt will be for what might end up being a complete pulley/bracket setup for the front of the engine. I want to keep the factory a/c that's on my truck, but the brackets are different dimensions from 302 to 460 as they mount to the water pump and driver's side head and those two blocks are clearly different in size. It just so happens that the blue flatbed truck I acquired has a 460 with factory a/c, so at least I know what the whole shebang should look like. I'm tempted to steal everything off that truck, but I need to keep that truck in one piece, so that's a no no.

I did a lot of measuring between the two trucks and as far as I can tell the compressors are approximately the same size despite the mounting brackets being a wee bit different, so I may be able to unbolt the one from the 302, swap brackets/pullies where needed, and then mount the compressor back in its place without needing to make any mods to the a/c system itself. That's if the stars align and all.

Worse case scenario is I remove the a/c system. A slightly better scenario is I remove the compressor and hoses (the system is most likely empty) and leave the a/c non-functional and capped off until I can accumulate everything needed. L&L makes brackets for 460 swaps, but they sure as hell aren't cheap and I'm not sure if they're intended for this application or specifically for 4x4's. I'll have to do more research.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
Drained the oil. Well, it was more like oil/coolant. I gotta hopefully drain what's left of the coolant in the water jackets without making a huge mess and then pop the pan off and hope for the best. I'm optimistic, but I'm always prepared for another dud. At least I got a set of desirable heads out of the deal so far.
 

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Hopin' you get more than just heads...
 

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Discussion Starter #212

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Discussion Starter #213
I went to bed shortly after getting all of the coolant out of the engine. Working on stuff when you're super tired must be like wrenching while drunk. Made a slight mess, but it turned out a lot better than I expected. I'll go pop off the pan in a bit and see what we have. I did hear something metallic rolling around as I flipped everything over, but I'm pretty sure that's a small bolt that fell in through one of the holes in the lifter valley as I was wheelbarrowing this pos through the JY. I had a pile of bolts stacked on it at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #215
I might have missed it, but are you replacing the C4 before you put a BB in front of it?
Yes, sir! I still have the C6 that was behind the 460 I blew up sitting on my flatbed truck. It should be a fairly simple swap (fingers crossed) when it comes time to execute. I even removed the trans cross member as well before the truck it came out of was sent on its way.

It's going to be a fairly slow process for me as my truck is my DD right now, so I'll have to finish getting the Bronco sorted out before I start pulling things. If it's like anything else I work on I'll end up finding a bunch of other crap that needs fixing or replacing before I can finish the initial project.
 

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Discussion Starter #216
I got the pan off and did some inspecting. I'm quite the amateur, so it's not like I know exactly what to look for, but I covered the obvious stuff like giant chunks of things missing, which there weren't. I'll give the guys here a chance to "inspect" it via some pictures.

I looked at things, turned the crank by hand a couple of revolutions, looked some more and made some mental notes, then put the pan back on with a few bolts at the corners and flipped the engine back over. I'm not going to have time to do anything else to it probably until next week.

I'm loading some pics to imgur to post, so those will be on the way. My biggest concern at the moment is simply the amount of dirt and crap that's all over the engine. I know a bunch of stuff has made it's way into the block after I opened it up in the JY as I initially was only wanting the heads, so I'm not sure how to go about making it "clean" before putting it back together. The longer I have it apart and the more I think about it the more I want to strip it all the way down and mod it, but that's a bit of a conflict of interest when I still have the other 460 at the machine shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #217
I picked up a moving blanket from Harbor Freight to cover the engine along with using a plastic bag. I decided to use the blanket as a drop cloth, because at $5 I don't care about it to be honest. Surprisingly, it doesn't really absorb water, which was nice. The coolant just pooled up and sat there. I was going to attempt to lift the blanket and funnel the coolant into a container, but instead just wrapped it up from each corner and then stuffed the whole thing into my 5 gallon bucket. I'll deal with that later!







This was after about 5 minutes or so, never really soaked it in.






I spent a bit rotating the block around to work things out as much as I could.






Yes, I didn't just walk over and start flipping it all willynilly! Before that I made sure there wasn't anything loose, which meant taking the lifters out on the side with the removed head. I kept them in order while wiping them down and checking the bottoms. None of them appear to be rounded, but there is wear, so I'm assuming 50 year old (damn it's been 50 years) original lifters. The ones on the rear of the engine appeared to have slight pitting whereas the ones towards the front had none. I'll be sure to grab a marker and number them as I don't trust myself, or the damn feral cats around here, to not screw with things.






Rear most lifter.






Forward most lifter.






This is one of the repair plugs I saw in the oil pans on that truck in the JY. The engine had one and so did the transmission. I've never seen one before, but with the way it's just plastic you'd think after a bunch of heat cycles that it'd either get brittle and crumble or it'd just fall out. I dunno!






There she is.






These 3 should be in order from the front of the engine to the rear, so if you're scrolling down through the pics it's like you're following the crankshaft downward.










All of the rods have 69 (nice) casting dates on them. All of the rods and caps are actually numbered as well and correspond to the cylinder they are numbered after (rod/cap 7 in the pic), which is awesome if I disassemble this thing completely as it'll ensure each one goes back where it came from.






I found what was rolling around in the pan as I was spinning the engine. It's a nut from the intake, one of the ones that goes onto the studs in the head. That's good news.






Oil pickup. It has a little friend sitting on it. Slightly concerning until you look at it closely and feel it. It's a piece of silicone that was in a bolt hole as it has threads on it. It probably was stuck to the end of a bolt that was removed and fell off and into the engine. Also, I thought it was neat to see how the oil dipstick just hangs there a few inches from the rotating assembly.








The timing chain! Looks to be original or at least an original style chain. You can look from the top and see the teeth on the gears and they're all long and solid, not a double roller that would look like a couple of bicycle chains and sprockets. I pushed on it with a screwdriver and it seemed kind of sloppy, but then I realized I had cranked the engine right before I checked it, so I cranked it the other way and the chain tightened up. Obviously I'll have to remove the front cover to check everything out properly, but I figured I could get an idea of its condition while I could see it there.








The inside of the oil pan prior to being tossed back on the engine. You can see the repair plug again. You can also see a bunch of crud stuck to the bottom of the pan. I picked up some of the bits and none of it seems metallic. I'm assuming bits of carbon might be some of it as a lot dissolved off the pistons when I coated the bores with WD40. There are also things like.. oh.. leaves in there as well. Top right corner is a little leaf.








I'll also need a new flexplate or at least a new ring gear put on it. The one from this engine has some seriously messed up teeth on it. It actually has identical damage in 4 spots and all of them are 90 degrees from one another. Makes me wonder if the engine and trans had some sort of alignment issue or if the wrong starter was used. No idea. I suppose I still have the flexplate off the 460 I blew up and that one would match this internally balanced one. I remember checking it when I took it off and it looked perfectly fine. Might as well go with a combination I know that works (flexplate, blocking plate, starter, trans).


 

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Discussion Starter #218
I've also decided to ditch the headers I just had coated and use those funds towards other things related to this project. I'm just going to use the manifolds for now. If/when I turn this 460 into a stroker down the line then I'll get a new set of headers to correspond to how mild/extreme that engine ends up being. I should probably pull out a few other items I've been sitting on for a while (non-automotive), take some pics, and sell those as well.
 

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This is one of the repair plugs I saw in the oil pans on that truck in the JY. The engine had one and so did the transmission. I've never seen one before, but with the way it's just plastic you'd think after a bunch of heat cycles that it'd either get brittle and crumble or it'd just fall out. I dunno!


Pick N Pull Yard stuff; they do this so that whenever people come by and take parts off the oil doesn't get spilled into the ground and they end up with an Environmental issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #220
Pick N Pull Yard stuff; they do this so that whenever people come by and take parts off the oil doesn't get spilled into the ground and they end up with an Environmental issue.

That would explain why they look new. I don't understand why they'd do it on the engines though. They have drain plugs and they drain them before they are put in the yard. I think I got about a quarts worth of coolant/oil out of the pan when I drained it before flipping the engine over and it was mostly coolant. Perhaps they didn't see the drain plug in the hole cut out in the cross member since the truck had the wrong pan and the JY employee was like eff it and just stabbed a couple holes in the pans. Not like anyone has ever cut corners at their job before.
 
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