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Sorry, I no longer have this write up. It was lost in a server crash.

There are TONS of great write ups on this board, so please use the search function to your advantage.

Jer
 

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This is not my write up, it was sent to me and I will share it with you.

Install Warn manual hubs
Introduction
The problem started when I found my "new" full size 1989 Bronco's four wheel drive
was only 2 wheel drive! No power was being delivered to the front wheels. It was mentioned
at fullsizebronco.com that if one of the auto hubs was bad and there was an open diff
in the front, which 99% of the time its open from the factory, then one wheel (most likely
the one with the bad hub) will have the axle shaft free spin inside of the hub.Disclaimer
Before I get too involved, let me mention I cannot be held responsible for any damage
to your vehicle or personal injury to anyone if you fail to properly install your own
manual hubs. This article is for information and education, and is not a substitute
for experience and knowledge in performing your own repairs. Who ever performs
the actual work on your vehicle assumes all responsibility and liability.

Source
Advance Auto netted me a set of standard Warn manual lockout hubs for $59 and
a set of 1/4" Torx sockets for $15. The Torx sockets are needed since the factory
auto hub uses Torx screws to hold the cover on.

Tools List
Torx bits - Allen wrenches - #2 flat blade screw driver - claw hammer - Crow Bar
Black rubber tie-down strap with hooks - Needle nose pliers________________________________________

New Warn hubs and Torx sockets

Stock/factory auto locking hubs________________________________________

Auto hub cover removed________________________________________

First, removed the metal clip (not pictured, already removed) and with needle nose
pliers, squeeze the tabs of the locking ring together. Gently pull and the auto hub
assembly will easily come out. If the lockout is "froze"in the drum, gently tap
around the outside to free it up. It may also be helpful to re-insert some of the
cap screws to pull the assembly out with.
________________________________________

Factory auto hub on its way out________________________________________


Factory auto locking hub assembly removed________________________________________



With the auto locking assembly removed, inspect for a gruve that holds a C-Clip in place. Remove the C-Clip and then the spacer/washer.



Next, your ready to install the manual hub. As you can see in this picture, the snap ring groove is not visible, and thus cannot be accessed. The snap ring must be
installed.________________________________________


As I was doing this project "Lone Ranger" style, I needed to apply outward pressure on the axle shaft u-joint. The only way I could quickly resolve this was to place a standard crow bar behind the u-joint and using a black rubber tie-down strap to pull tension on the crow bar. I simply hooked the other end to the Pittman arm. ________________________________________

With pressure on the u-joint, the axle shaft was pressed in just the right distance to install the snap ring. ________________________________________


Ignore the mislabel on the first picture, just swap the labels. Here we see the snap ring installed. In the second picture, the lock ring is installed. Both were very easy to fit in place.________________________________________

Install the cap and tighten down the 6 Warn provided cap screws with your Allen wrench. Finished, move to the next wheel! ________________________________________
Road Test
Time for the road test! Although, you don’t actually want to do a road test on
the road! Running 4X4 on dry pavement has a nasty habit of creating drive line
windup, which results in excessive tension place on all drive line components.
The only way for this stress to relieve its self is to break the weakest part. Most
likely, your new hubs or a U-Joint will pop leaving you a bad feeling in the tummy.

I found a pig-path near the house years ago, so I headed off while I still had some daylight.
Keep your vehicle in 2X4, put your truck in the mud and hammer down. Observe only the
rear tires spin. Lock in your hubs and switch to 4X4. You should notice a great difference.
Given the right circumstances (Slick enough mud, hard enough gas) you should be able
to visually observe a front tire spin such as I did. Proof positive, your front tires are engaged!
________________________________________


Closing Notes
The entire project took me about an hour and 15 minutes. The main reason for such
a long time was mainly never having performed such a service before. I simply have
never had the necessity to mess with locking hubs. My bit of advice, throw away the
manual that came with the manual hubs, and print out this page.

I spent almost an hour on the first side, then on the second side I could not for the
love of money get the auto hub assembly to come free! I struggled with it for the longest
time before I resorted to using the "persuader" to free it up. Once whacked about 4 times
in different spots, the assembly came out easily. Remove the fight with the stuck assembly
and actual wrench time would have been closer to 10 minutes.

Your times should be greatly accelerated, since the hard part of figuring out what to do
has been done for you. If you encounter no problems, I would think you should be able to
do both sides and be washing up in 40 minutes or less. If I had to do it all again, I feel
certain I could do the job in 20- 25 minutes, tops.

Feel free to use the text and pictures and even duplicate the page, but please give
credit to myself (Andrew Daniel) and to fullsizebronco.com when doing so. I hope
very much this digital article has been of help to you![/CENTER]
 

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Hello all,

Was wondering if the spacer/washer needs to be re-installed prior to installing the warn maual hub? Or weather once removed along with the c-clip is all discarted, the c-clip and spacer/washer.

thanks,

Carlos

I have a long trip to make tomorrow, and i am nervous to know the answer to the above question
 

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Hello all,

Was wondering if the spacer/washer needs to be re-installed prior to installing the warn maual hub? Or weather once removed along with the c-clip is all discarted, the c-clip and spacer/washer.

thanks,

Carlos

I have a long trip to make tomorrow, and i am nervous to know the answer to the above question
:stupid
i just did the same swap and used these directions and have the same question
 

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The answer is no.

That spacer & inner C-ring are there to hold the axle stub OUTboard, so the u-joint remains aligned between the ball joints. Most manual locks won't fit over those parts, so they must be removed. But that function is performed by the E-ring that goes here:



So as long as you install that ring, the stub axle will be in the correct position.

 

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no. you will need a conversion kit sold by warn. right now you have a 3 screw hub. you need the kit to change it to a 5 screw. check steves supermotors. it helpes a lot
 

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Thanx. I thought I was gonna need that, but the rest of the job was same same.
 

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i did read thread, when i brought it up the first time, only the first part loaded, i have dial up.
 

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hey guys ive installed the wanr premiuims in my 92 no problem everyhting wokrs great. it just did them in my 86 and they dont work when iput it in 4wd and lock the hubs i just hear it spinging in side and like clicking like its not fully engaging. whta could i have done wrong ive taken thse ford hubs apart tons of times and had no problem. i couldnt remember if i was suposed to leave the splined washer and snap ring and it didnt seem to fit with them in or just the washer and no snap ring. and fomr wat i just rear you leave them out so i guess i did that rite. and had left them out but they still wont enage
 

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pics look good:thumbup

i did this last december, took very little time.

have a problem now:banghead

click click noise when driving in 2 wheel. when engage noise stops and when i use the brakes noise stops.

brake pads do have sleeves on back and i even used double tape. noise is still there:banghead
 

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Installed my Warn's last night onto my 91. I probably wasted more time printing up the instructions. :) I couldn't beleive how easy it was. So I must say they were very good instructions as I give credit where it is due. Thanks.
 

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hey guys ive installed the wanr premiuims in my 92 no problem everyhting wokrs great. it just did them in my 86 and they dont work when iput it in 4wd and lock the hubs i just hear it spinging in side and like clicking like its not fully engaging. whta could i have done wrong ive taken thse ford hubs apart tons of times and had no problem. i couldnt remember if i was suposed to leave the splined washer and snap ring and it didnt seem to fit with them in or just the washer and no snap ring. and fomr wat i just rear you leave them out so i guess i did that rite. and had left them out but they still wont enage
Ensure that the hubs work to begin with. Take them out and test them, They (the hub outer casing and the spindle sleeve) should spin independently when not engaged (or on "free" if you attach the cap) and when you engage the hub be sure the spline sleeve (on the hub where the axle shaft goes) rotates with the outer hub casing. If all is properly working, insert the warn hubs into the rotor hub housing and test again. After properly installed, turn the dial to "FREE" ; lift with jack and spin the tire, the tire should spin freely and not rotate the axle shaft. when engaged the axle should turn.
 

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This is pretty sweet. Is it the same to switch Factory Manual Hubs to Warn Premiums?
 

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DON'T beat on it any more. :twak You have to TURN the inner splines to get the lock to line up so it can slide inward.
 

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ok, i followed everything like it said, but i couldnt figure out how to get the outside washer to go on before the snap clip. i installed it without the clip and it seems to work fine in free mode, but i havent tried lock yet. how important is that washer, or am i not supposed to use it, since the kit i have is kinda universal?
 

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how do you remove in inner c clip? I have everything off but it and I don't want to damage any of the splines in there. Is there a certain tool or way to get it out?
 
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