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1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.8L 351W Automatic E40D 1356 Borg Warner Transfer Case Manual Locking Hubs
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This may be a dumb question, but am I able to change all of my body bushings except for the two front radiator bushings on my 96 Bronco?
I only ask this because I know that I will need to buy a new radiator core support housing soon which I am thinking when I replace it, I will not have to loosen all the body mounts to get the bushing sleeves, washers, shims, etc in as I could drop them in with the new core support?

thanks for any advice!
 

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1996 bronco, 351w, E4od
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233 Posts
You will not need to loosen any of the body mounts to replace the front radiator core support mounts or bushings. You could even replace the bushing mounts with ones off bronco graveyard. Its not to difficult youll just need to adjust it at the end.
Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim
i did mine when i was replacing my core support because it was rotted out
 

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1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.8L 351W Automatic E40D 1356 Borg Warner Transfer Case Manual Locking Hubs
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
HoustonBronco thanks for the info! I will probably end up replacing those mounts as well. I am also replacing my rear crossmember at the tailgate as the rust ate all of it up.
Would you happen to know if my quarter panels will say aligned when I remove the tailgate to replace the crossmember if I keep my topper on??
 

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1996 bronco, 351w, E4od
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HoustonBronco thanks for the info! I will probably end up replacing those mounts as well. I am also replacing my rear crossmember at the tailgate as the rust ate all of it up.
Would you happen to know if my quarter panels will say aligned when I remove the tailgate to replace the crossmember if I keep my topper on??
I would say that they do. I would take measurements on it before you start taking everything apart just to be safe. I have an oem replacement rear cross sill with all the oem holes in it so it should be straightforward for me but i am u sure how easily alignment will be if you dont have an oem type replacement. But if you want my 2 cents id say with the top attached it should not be an issue i mean you can always just have someone lean on the panel while you tack it in place and take a look at it from a distance.
Autometalsdirect has the piece youll need for that its $300.
 

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1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.8L 351W Automatic E40D 1356 Borg Warner Transfer Case Manual Locking Hubs
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok great to hear, I was thinking the same thing. And I was just looking through your threads and saw you bought the rear cross member from AMD, I should of mentioned earlier that I actually just received my OEM cross member from them last week. So happy that they started making them again! Have you managed to replace yours yet? I read that you swapped your 302 for the 351, good choice, luckily mine already has that. How long did that take you to swap out? FYI I will be picking your brain a lot now ha. I’m over in New Orleans and I do not have a garage so I have to battle with the weather when I want do major work on the Bronco.
 

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1996 bronco, 351w, E4od
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ok great to hear, I was thinking the same thing. And I was just looking through your threads and saw you bought the rear cross member from AMD, I should of mentioned earlier that I actually just received my OEM cross member from them last week. So happy that they started making them again! Have you managed to replace yours yet? I read that you swapped your 302 for the 351, good choice, luckily mine already has that. How long did that take you to swap out? FYI I will be picking your brain a lot now ha. I’m over in New Orleans and I do not have a garage so I have to battle with the weather when I want do major work on the Bronco.
The engine swap took 2-3 days first time doing one so ya know.😂 the longer part was modifying the existibg systems to work with the newer ones. That took about 1 1/2 weeks. Had to figure out which vss wire to cut so that abs still worked. It was fun. Ive also inspected in great detail what it would take to replace the rear sill in the 1996 bronco and it appears to be rather simple but that doesnt mean much when you do something for the first time.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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986 Posts
Im in the same situation, ripped out my rear crossmember over the weekend, and have the AMD one being delivered tomorrow, so I will be digging into it this weekend.

I removed my bolt on tow hitch, bumper, tailgate, then crossmember, drilling out spot welds & separating the floor. My frame had holes where the pucks sat, so I welded them up, & cleaned everything up with a wire wheel, used rust treatment, then primer & paint. Wasnt too bad so far, but it lools like it will be a challenge to get the crossmember in position, with the quarter panels on. Can that be done, because the crossmember loads in behind the uprights that hold the tail lamps in? Gotta get the part in to tell, but I am predicting a load problem here.

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Yo Aidan,
Core Support:
Removal Tips
Source: by Members at FSB

Replacement in a 95 Source: by Fronabarger (BRONCONUT) @ 1995 Ford Bronco core support install pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

"INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
92-95 FORD BRONCO​
This is a copy of the instructions that I was given with my lift. I will comment on things that need additional instruction.
15. Loosen, but to not remove all 10 body mounting bolts. They are located as follows (one on each side); at the front of the vehicle, screwing up into a nut located next to the radiator, in the front floorboard, in front of the rear seat, behind the rear seat, and at the very rear of the vehicle.(note: to get the font bolt / nut loose you will need a tool like this for the top side)
16. Remove the body mounting bolts from the passenger side of the vehicle only. Using a hydraulic jack and a wooden block, slowly lift the passenger side of the vehicle just high enough to place the spacer blocks on the stock body bushings.
(note: left side before)
Missing front pic

Remove the front body bushing from the frame pad. Using a 1/2" drill, drill out the threads on the inside of the bushing sleeve. This will allow the new bolt to slide through the bushing sleeve.) (note: below you will see how we had to modify one of the front body bushings, we could not get the bolt loose and had to cut off the bolt head with a sawzall and jack up the body to remove the bushing. The nut came right off from the inside. In this picture you can see that we cut off the top of the bushing where the threads are about 3/8" to make it flatter. This picture shows what it should look like. There is no problem with doing this because the bushing on top of that still sits in the cup and the bolt slides through that as well. There are a total of 3 pieces to the front body bushing.)
Replace the bushing on the frame pad. Place the spacer blocks on all 5 mounting pads of the passenger side of the vehicle. Install the new mounting bolts in the following manner; 12mm x 180 mm with a 7/16" large washer inserted from the bottom and screwing up into the stock nut at the font location, 7/16" x 7" in the next three locations (use the stock washers in these locations) and screwing down into the stock nuts, 7/16" x 9" with a 7/16" large washer at the very rear of the vehicle screwing down into the stock nut. Start all of the bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME.
17. Repeat step 17 for the drivers side of the vehicle. Tighten all body mounting bolts securely to vehicle torque specifications. We recommend the use of lictite or similar adhesive on all body mounting bolts.
All steps above took about 5 hours." by Bill Von V (94bronco) at mybigbronco.com via web.archive.org

Parts Break-Out & Locations (& Bolt Sizes) for 94 (other years are similar) w/Nomenclature; "Check out View Z (lower R). It's not totally accurate because it omits the thick spacer, and there should be another washer between the Nut & the Spacer on top of the core support..."
&
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"80-96 Body Mounts DAYSTAR
I don't recommend the technique shown in the lower L because there's a risk of bunging the threads that have to pass thru the nut. Doing the same thing with the bolt installed in the normal direction (but loosened) and striking the head eliminates this possibility."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Bracket, for Core Support Mounts; "...You should have the ones pictured by Miesk5, with the hex-shaped bottom. These are rubber molded around the metal part, and must be replaced as a unit. THey are near impossible to separate. Also, beware that the frame mounting bracket for these is often wallowed out or rusted thru, and will also need to be replaced if damaged. These are riveted onto the frame, but replacements are bolted on after removing the rivets and old mounts. Finally, the core support may be rusted in the body mount area, and any damage needs to be fixed before installing the new bushings. There may be one or more spacers on top of the bushing, used to align or level the core support. In my experience, it's a PITA to replace these, since they are often rusted out or the bolts are seized up. The inner sleeve is threaded for the bolt, and no amount of pounding will separate the old ones if rusted up. A Sawz-All or cut-off wheel may need to be used to get the old ones out..."
Source: by justshootme84 (Randy Z, Casual Mudder) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Foremost, protect your hands, fingers and eyes!
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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They are supposed to be welded, but mine were mostly just not there. I cut the side of the rear quarter out tonight so I can replace the inner structures that are missing & load the rear crossmember in, then started making repairs pieces out of an old fender, just figuring things out as I go, 1 section, bent to fit, then pieced together, 1 at a time, just like the "Fitzee" youtube videos showed me.

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