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Discussion Starter #1
Busted my lower intake and now I’m replacing it in my 89 with a 351w.

While I’m changing the intake what else should I change as maintenance? Right now my list includes
  • cap/rotor
  • spark plugs
  • thermostat
  • radiator with hoses
  • intake gaskets (fel pro? Any recommendations)
was also thinking of doing injectors from a 96-98 explorer 5.0
OEM Bosch Fuel Injectors Set for 96-98 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8 97 | eBay

it’s got a 110k miles and a stock 351w/c6
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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I'd do the first 2 items & injectors later. That way if it runs poorly after the work is done it is easier to diagnose the problem. I was taught to change things in small groups then test before moving on. It would be hard to tell the difference between a vacuum leak at the manifold vs crossed up spark plug wires vs an injector issue.

Be sure to mark the dizzy & rotor position so you can reinstall it easier later. And use 4 studs as lower manifold aligned pins when you drop it in place.

Busted my lower intake and now I’m replacing it in my 89 with a 351w.

While I’m changing the intake what else should I change as maintenance? Right now my list includes
  • cap/rotor
  • spark plugs
  • thermostat
  • radiator with hoses
  • intake gaskets (fel pro? Any recommendations)
was also thinking of doing injectors from a 96-98 explorer 5.0
OEM Bosch Fuel Injectors Set for 96-98 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8 97 | eBay

it’s got a 110k miles and a stock 351w/c6
 

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25,328 Posts
Yo Chapy,
Removal, Upper Intake in an 89
Source: by Waltman

Removal, Upper Intake Tip & Tool in an 86 5.0; "...This is the Torx T-40 you're going to need to get that pesky inner center screw out with to remove the EFI's upper intake. Trouble is you'll never get that 3/8" drive socket between the runners, with the space the way it is. I just drift the center part of the T-40 out. It happens to be 1/4" hex. Now it's seperated from it's 3/8" host housing. I use contact cement to glue the T-40 bit into a 1/4" drive 1/4" sized socket and then work with several 1/4" rachet extensions, which pass through the intake runners no trouble at all..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer)

Engine Gasket Removal TSB 93-23-14 for 88-93 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline & many others
Source: by Ford via https://web.archive.org/web/20080123232104/http://www.performanceprobe.com/misc/tsb.php?article=93-23-14

Availability of New Silicone Gasket & Sealant TSB 98-7-4 for 84-96 Bronco; 84-98 Econoline, F-150, F-250 HD, F-250 LD; 84-99 Super Duty F Series, etc. @ https://web.archive.org/web/20080123233156/http://www.performanceprobe.com/misc/tsb.php?article=98-07-04

Misrouted spark plug wires can cause a misfire or buck and jerk under load.
Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/jerk, surge and other driveability concerns;
MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur.

The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap.
Source: by Ford

Pull a few plugs and look for a lean condition = intake man, EGR Valve , throttle body gasket, Vac Leaks, bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) or weak fuel press from Pump.. ..

Rich plug = O2 sensor /conn/wiring etc prob (should have a Code in KOER), ECT Sensor prob (code too)

Spark Plug Firing End Analysis, General Source: by gnttype.org

Over-advanced ignition timing can cause a misfire or buck and jerk under load.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
List sounds pretty good, but why are you going with different injectors?
I have the stock fuel injectors that are probably old. I thought explorer injectors where a good upgrade?

I'd do the first 2 items & injectors later. That way if it runs poorly after the work is done it is easier to diagnose the problem.
Good point! Will start with just the manifold. My local shop quoted me 520 to change the intake. It looks like a massive job not sure I want to tackle it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
List sounds pretty good, but why are you going with different injectors?
I have the stock fuel injectors that are probably old. I thought explorer injectors where a good upgrade?

I'd do the first 2 items & injectors later. That way if it runs poorly after the work is done it is easier to diagnose the problem.
Good point! Will start with just the manifold. I am debating having a shop to do it as its so much work. My local place quoted me 520 to change it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also will these arp bolts be correct for the intake manifold? Make sure I get all new bolts. Seems like its not enough
 

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Just a thought, but with over 100k a new timing chain and water pump might be good insurance?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just a thought, but with over 100k a new timing chain and water pump might be good insurance?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
so it’s older but not a lot of miles the previous owner did the timing chain, timing cover gasket, water pump, and harmonic balancer at 99k in 2014. He didn’t drive it much but I have the receipt from the shop.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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And use 4 studs as lower manifold aligned pins when you drop it in place.
Ive seen this posted numerous times.

But never have I seen anyone recommend actually using studs as fasteners in the four corners. This would basically keep you from ever breaking a bolt off again if you had to remove the intake again.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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7,928 Posts
Ive seen this posted numerous times.

But never have I seen anyone recommend actually using studs as fasteners in the four corners. This would basically keep you from ever breaking a bolt off again if you had to remove the intake again.
It's funny. On my 1st windsor in a 64 Falcon (11:1 & it was tough on head gaskets) I fought dropping the intake in place every time without moving gaskets around. Especially that stupid cork gasket on the back. My 2nd windsor was a 68 Cougar. It had studs on the 4 bolts 2nd from the outside corners. That dropped on so easily that I have used that method every time since. I even keep a set of long allen set screws so I can use them to align the intake & pull them out for the next engine once other bolts were started. But still use the same 4 locations as the Cougar used. I never thought about moving to the outside corners.
 
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