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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gang... Just a quick question... Out of curiosity for y'all with the 351W CID how often do u check your oil and how much do u usually need to add? What is your preferred oil? Just wanna see if my rig is on par with the rest of yas. No leaks or anything, just a curiosity question really. Thanks in advance
 

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I have approx. 202,500 miles on my '96 and I check the oil pretty regularly. I burn a little and drip a little out of the drain plug that I need to replace - I'd say I end up adding close to a quart about ever 800-1000 miles. I run Valvoline 20-50 High Mileage and live in the Dallas, TX. area
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have approx. 202,500 miles on my '96 and I check the oil pretty regularly. I burn a little and drip a little out of the drain plug that I need to replace - I'd say I end up adding close to a quart about ever 800-1000 miles. I run Valvoline 20-50 High Mileage and live in the Dallas, TX. area
Hey @Jeremy Cooksey thanks for the reply. Ur drain plug sounds like mine. Needs a new gasket... Altho i haven't noticed any drips since the last oil change.
 

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For any engine, it's customary to check every two or three tankfuls (not that anyone does, mind you, even I forget every once in a while), and only add enough to put the level on the crosshatch, regardless of how fast you lose oil. Overfilling causes foaming, and air is just not a good bearing lubricant. The factory drain bolt (and some cheapo aftermarket ones) just have a fun time dripping, no matter how much you tighten it, and leak more if you strip the threads. Plastic seal rings last for several thousand miles, then begin leaking themselves, especially if you change oil every 3K. The more expensive steel washer with rubber center does a great job sealing the drain bolt, but even they wear out eventually, so buy three or four at a time. Then ensure your PCV valve is replaced every couple years, whether you think it needs it or not. If the crankcase vent filter is oil-soaked, the PCV is bad.
 

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Hey gang... Just a quick question... Out of curiosity for y'all with the 351W CID how often do u check your oil and how much do u usually need to add? What is your preferred oil? Just wanna see if my rig is on par with the rest of yas. No leaks or anything, just a curiosity question really. Thanks in advance
It doesn't matter what motor you have really. On a new-to-me vehicle or motor, I'll check it every 100 miles or so to get a handle on whether it uses much or not, then adjust accordingly.

Here's a good read on oil: Is synthetic oil bad for older engines?
 

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Yo MOM,
Following from Automobile Repair Reference Center (ARRC):*
"The engine oil and oil filter should be changed at the same time, at the recommended intervals on the maintenance schedule chart.

Install the new filter by hand only; DO NOT use a strap wrench to install.

The oil should be changed more frequently if the vehicle is being operated in very dusty areas. Before draining the oil, make sure that the engine is at operating temperature. Hot oil will hold more impurities in suspension and will flow better, allowing the removal of more oil and dirt.

Loosen the drain plug with a wrench, then, unscrew the plug with your fingers, using a rag to shield your fingers from the heat. Push in on the plug as you unscrew it so you can feel when all of the screw threads are out of the hole. You can then remove the plug quickly with the minimum amount of oil running down your arm and you will also have the plug in your hand and not in the bottom of a pan of hot oil. Drain the oil into a suitable receptacle. Be careful of the oil. If it is at operating temperatures it is hot enough to burn you.

The oil filter is located on the left side of all the engines installed in Ford trucks. It should be changed every time the oil is changed. To remove the filter, you may need an oil filter wrench since the filter may have been fitted too tightly and the heat from the engine may have made it even tighter. A filter wrench can be obtained at an auto parts store and is well worth the investment, since it will save you a lot of grief. Loosen the filter with the filter wrench. With a rag wrapped around the filter, unscrew the filter from the boss on the side of the engine. Be careful of hot oil that will run down the side of the filter. Make sure that you have a pan under the filter before you start to remove it from the engine; should some of the hot oil happen to get on you, you will have a place to dump the filter in a hurry. Wipe the base of the mounting boss with a clean, dry cloth. When you install the new filter, smear a small amount of oil on the gasket with your finger, just enough to coat the entire surface, where it comes in contact with the mounting plate. When you tighten the filter, rotate it only a half turn after it comes in contact with the mounting boss.

Before installing the oil pan drain plug, clean the threads and wrap them with Teflon® tape. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUG! Overtightening will strip the threads in the pan. The drain plug torque is 20-25 ft. lbs.

The oil level should be above the ADD mark and not above the FULL mark on the dipstick. Make sure that the dipstick is inserted into the crankcase as far as possible and that the vehicle is resting on level ground. Also, allow a few minutes after turning off the engine for the oil to drain into the pan or an inaccurate reading will result.

Open the hood and remove the engine oil dipstick.

Wipe the dipstick with a clean, lint-free rag and reinsert it. Be sure to insert it all the way.

Pull out the dipstick and note the oil level. It should be between the SAFE(MAX) mark and the ADD(MIN) mark.

If the level is below the lower mark, replace the dipstick and add fresh oil to bring the level within the proper range. Do not overfill.

Recheck the oil level and close the hood.

Use a multi-grade oil with API classification SF.

Gasoline Engines
The recommended oil viscosities for sustained temperatures ranging from below 0°F (-18°C) to above 32°F (0°C) are listed in this section. They are broken down into multi-viscosities and single viscosities. Multiviscosity oils are recommended because of their wider range of acceptable temperatures and driving conditions.

When adding oil to the crankcase or changing the oil or filter, it is important that oil of an equal quality to original equipment be used in your truck. The use of inferior oils may void the warranty, damage your engine, or both.

The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) grade number of oil indicates the viscosity of the oil (its ability to lubricate at a given temperature). The lower the SAE number, the lighter the oil; the lower the viscosity, the easier it is to crank the engine in cold weather but the less the oil will lubricate and protect the engine in high temperatures. This number is marked on every oil container.

Oil viscosities should be chosen from those oils recommended for the lowest anticipated temperatures during the oil change interval. Due to the need for an oil that embodies both good lubrication at high temperatures and easy cranking in cold weather, multigrade oils have been developed. Basically, a multigrade oil is thinner at low temperatures and thicker at high temperatures. For example, a 10W-40 oil (the W stands for winter) exhibits the characteristics of a 10 weight (SAE 10) oil when the truck is first started and the oil is cold. Its lighter weight allows it to travel to the lubricating surfaces quicker and offer less resistance to starter motor cranking than, say, a straight 30 weight (SAE 30) oil. But after the engine reaches operating temperature, the 10W-40 oil begins acting like straight 40 weight (SAE 40) oil, its heavier weight providing greater lubrication with less chance of foaming than a straight 30 weight oil.

The API (American Petroleum Institute) designations, also found on the oil container, indicates the classification of engine oil used under certain given operating conditions. Only oils designated for use Service SG heavy duty detergent should be used in your truck. Oils of the SG type perform may functions inside the engine besides their basic lubrication. Through a balanced system of metallic detergents and polymeric dispersants, the oil prevents high and low temperature deposits and also keeps sludge and dirt particles in suspension. Acids, particularly sulfuric acid, as well as other by-products of engine combustion are neutralized by the oil. If these acids are allowed to concentrate, they can cause corrosion and rapid wear of the internal engine parts.

CAUTION
Non-detergent motor oils or straight mineral oils should not be used in your Ford gasoline engine."
 

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I'll typically check it once every month or so, but at 287k my 300 hardly uses any oil. I use motorcraft 10w-40:thumbup
 

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No worries, I think the threads are actually slightly stripped out on my pan though. Next oil change I will retap/ rethread and take a few extra minutes to make sure I get her sealed up nice and tight again.

Hey @Jeremy Cooksey thanks for the reply. Ur drain plug sounds like mine. Needs a new gasket... Altho i haven't noticed any drips since the last oil change.
 

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For anything that's been new to me I've always checked it about once a week for the first month or so and also dropped on of those aluminum pie pans under the drain bolt to catch any leaking and have a good idea of whats dripping out. After that you should have a decent idea of about what you're going to need to replace and how often.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11
Yo MOM,
Following from Automobile Repair Reference Center (ARRC):*
"The engine oil and oil filter should be changed at the same time, at the recommended intervals on the maintenance schedule chart.

Install the new filter by hand only; DO NOT use a strap wrench to install.

The oil should be changed more frequently if the vehicle is being operated in very dusty areas. Before draining the oil, make sure that the engine is at operating temperature. Hot oil will hold more impurities in suspension and will flow better, allowing the removal of more oil and dirt.

Loosen the drain plug with a wrench, then, unscrew the plug with your fingers, using a rag to shield your fingers from the heat. Push in on the plug as you unscrew it so you can feel when all of the screw threads are out of the hole. You can then remove the plug quickly with the minimum amount of oil running down your arm and you will also have the plug in your hand and not in the bottom of a pan of hot oil. Drain the oil into a suitable receptacle. Be careful of the oil. If it is at operating temperatures it is hot enough to burn you.

The oil filter is located on the left side of all the engines installed in Ford trucks. It should be changed every time the oil is changed. To remove the filter, you may need an oil filter wrench since the filter may have been fitted too tightly and the heat from the engine may have made it even tighter. A filter wrench can be obtained at an auto parts store and is well worth the investment, since it will save you a lot of grief. Loosen the filter with the filter wrench. With a rag wrapped around the filter, unscrew the filter from the boss on the side of the engine. Be careful of hot oil that will run down the side of the filter. Make sure that you have a pan under the filter before you start to remove it from the engine; should some of the hot oil happen to get on you, you will have a place to dump the filter in a hurry. Wipe the base of the mounting boss with a clean, dry cloth. When you install the new filter, smear a small amount of oil on the gasket with your finger, just enough to coat the entire surface, where it comes in contact with the mounting plate. When you tighten the filter, rotate it only a half turn after it comes in contact with the mounting boss.

Before installing the oil pan drain plug, clean the threads and wrap them with Teflon® tape. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE DRAIN PLUG! Overtightening will strip the threads in the pan. The drain plug torque is 20-25 ft. lbs.

The oil level should be above the ADD mark and not above the FULL mark on the dipstick. Make sure that the dipstick is inserted into the crankcase as far as possible and that the vehicle is resting on level ground. Also, allow a few minutes after turning off the engine for the oil to drain into the pan or an inaccurate reading will result.

Open the hood and remove the engine oil dipstick.

Wipe the dipstick with a clean, lint-free rag and reinsert it. Be sure to insert it all the way.

Pull out the dipstick and note the oil level. It should be between the SAFE(MAX) mark and the ADD(MIN) mark.

If the level is below the lower mark, replace the dipstick and add fresh oil to bring the level within the proper range. Do not overfill.

Recheck the oil level and close the hood.

Use a multi-grade oil with API classification SF.

Gasoline Engines
The recommended oil viscosities for sustained temperatures ranging from below 0°F (-18°C) to above 32°F (0°C) are listed in this section. They are broken down into multi-viscosities and single viscosities. Multiviscosity oils are recommended because of their wider range of acceptable temperatures and driving conditions.

When adding oil to the crankcase or changing the oil or filter, it is important that oil of an equal quality to original equipment be used in your truck. The use of inferior oils may void the warranty, damage your engine, or both.

The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) grade number of oil indicates the viscosity of the oil (its ability to lubricate at a given temperature). The lower the SAE number, the lighter the oil; the lower the viscosity, the easier it is to crank the engine in cold weather but the less the oil will lubricate and protect the engine in high temperatures. This number is marked on every oil container.

Oil viscosities should be chosen from those oils recommended for the lowest anticipated temperatures during the oil change interval. Due to the need for an oil that embodies both good lubrication at high temperatures and easy cranking in cold weather, multigrade oils have been developed. Basically, a multigrade oil is thinner at low temperatures and thicker at high temperatures. For example, a 10W-40 oil (the W stands for winter) exhibits the characteristics of a 10 weight (SAE 10) oil when the truck is first started and the oil is cold. Its lighter weight allows it to travel to the lubricating surfaces quicker and offer less resistance to starter motor cranking than, say, a straight 30 weight (SAE 30) oil. But after the engine reaches operating temperature, the 10W-40 oil begins acting like straight 40 weight (SAE 40) oil, its heavier weight providing greater lubrication with less chance of foaming than a straight 30 weight oil.

The API (American Petroleum Institute) designations, also found on the oil container, indicates the classification of engine oil used under certain given operating conditions. Only oils designated for use Service SG heavy duty detergent should be used in your truck. Oils of the SG type perform may functions inside the engine besides their basic lubrication. Through a balanced system of metallic detergents and polymeric dispersants, the oil prevents high and low temperature deposits and also keeps sludge and dirt particles in suspension. Acids, particularly sulfuric acid, as well as other by-products of engine combustion are neutralized by the oil. If these acids are allowed to concentrate, they can cause corrosion and rapid wear of the internal engine parts.

CAUTION
Non-detergent motor oils or straight mineral oils should not be used in your Ford gasoline engine."
You're awesome @miesk5 :thumbup learned something new... I think I'll be switching to 10w40 based on your comment
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For anything that's been new to me I've always checked it about once a week for the first month or so and also dropped on of those aluminum pie pans under the drain bolt to catch any leaking and have a good idea of whats dripping out. After that you should have a decent idea of about what you're going to need to replace and how often.
Good idea with the pie pan @deathside23 altho without having a garage I suspect it would blow away on me. I use to use big sheets of cardboard. It was a little harder to tell how much some times but it helped to pinpoint where a leak was coming from.
 

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Yo MOM,
A Leak is a Leak is a Leak that continually preoccupies or intrudes on our minds.
 

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Good idea with the pie pan @deathside23 altho without having a garage I suspect it would blow away on me. I use to use but sheets of cardboard. It was a little harder to tell how much some times but it helped to pinpoint where a leak was coming from.
lol, huck a rock or something in it. that'll keep in in place unless you're out in a tornado or something crazy :thumbup
 
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