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my precioussssssss
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877 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For those of you who dont like to search, here it is :goodfinge

Courtesy of www.broncofix.com
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Coby's pics:
http://www.vintagebronco.com/coby/tierod/

Great pics from a guy using this setup on a Jeep Commanche pickup:
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_1.jpg shows tie rod height w/Scout knuckles
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_2.jpg
http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/detail_3.jpg

1) 1.250 OD x 0.812 ID DOM for the tie rod (tap directly into 0.812" ID)
-any tube with 0.812" ID or smaller will work and you can also go to a larger OD for additional strength. It is not receommended to go beyond 1.50" OD though.

2) 1.5" .120 DOM for sleeving (optional and only works with 1.25" OD tubes)

3) Tie rod tube should be about 38"for stock early Bronco knuckles (39.5" for 76-77 disk knuckles) and drag link should be about 25" for high misalignment ends and 27" if using the tie
rod ends for the drag link). If using the F150 box and the high misalignment ends, then the drag link tube length should be 18.75".

4) 7/8" x 18 UNS special left and right hand taps
Travers Tool Co, Inc
14-056-182 (plug style)7/8-18 right hand $20.47
McMaster-Carr
2595A424 7/8-18 right hand $49
2595A999 7/8-18 left hand $108

5) Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/...yID=8ClassID=121SubclassID=565&ProductID=2631
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

6) Rod ends
-pass side tie rod (with hole and regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-driver side tie rod (regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-pass side drag link end (high misalignment)
-pitman arm side drag link end (high misalignment)

Autozone:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link end

Autozone Online Prices:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $24.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $24.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $24.99 high misalignment drag link end

7) big end of the tie rod is .78" and the small end is around .67"

8) The tie rod ends should come with the jam nuts, but the drag links won't. I searched high and low for the source for the jam nuts and have only come up with the Chevy part numbers which are 14026805 (left hand) and 14026806 (right hand).
 

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Master Bater
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7,268 Posts
sweet. I have a barely legible photo copy of that page and finding he right outers can be tough. it would benice o have a pic of the outers with the part number. there has been some controversy over which tre is better to use at the drag/tierod intersection (the one that mounts the drag onto the tre for the tierod)
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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4,774 Posts
you can get jambnuts from http://www.shakerbuilt.com/Products.html pretty reasonable. all those parts were available from advance auto in my area for the prices listed, more or less. i am going to go there and get pictures. heres one i think will show the parts used. the thing about the drag link ends is that they are thicker than the TR ends. i hope parts mike dont mind
 

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www.easttn4x4.com
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Looks like he cut off his front shock mounts also.
 

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Master Bater
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were those pics there before and i am just a jack ass?

Its hard to tell from the photos, but I think the one coby or whatever has at the pitman arm is the two plane (or whatever they are called ) TRE that allows for increased movement. Some have said you should have that typ at the lower end of the drag too, but i dont think it is necessary (and it is a bit more expensive if I recall)

Another thing, the weld on bungs are nice and easy, but the guys who are tapping just the rod and then maching a little flat spot for locking it down with a wrench seem to allow for full length TRE's instead of cutting down. the bungs arent very deep.
 

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63 Posts
plug ugly said:
Another thing, the weld on bungs are nice and easy, but the guys who are tapping just the rod and then maching a little flat spot for locking it down with a wrench seem to allow for full length TRE's instead of cutting down. the bungs arent very deep.



If you are doing the top swap tie rod, I will supply the DOM tubing for both tie rod and drag link threaded for 7/8-18 left one end and right other end to your length specifications for a very modest fee. PM or email for complete pricing, I don't think it is allowed here. As a sidenote , DO NOT take the measurements given as the gospel, my EB 44 with 79 knuckles took a different length than was specified.
Bob Myers
Myers Machine &Welding
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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4,774 Posts
dude that is totally nice to know. i am sure that many will appreciate it. what size DOM do you use? i think we may need a vendors sections pretty soon. we have a few people making stuff, myself included. i am not doing it for a living, and i will just about weld for food :) i like to make stuff and i really have a hard time charging alot. hell i still dont know what i am going to charge for a wristed arm and a plated arm for a guy i know that wants them. but i am going to get a bender next so i better figure it out soon.
 

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axaviere said:
dude that is totally nice to know. i am sure that many will appreciate it. what size DOM do you use? i think we may need a vendors sections pretty soon. we have a few people making stuff, myself included. i am not doing it for a living, and i will just about weld for food :) i like to make stuff and i really have a hard time charging alot. hell i still dont know what i am going to charge for a wristed arm and a plated arm for a guy i know that wants them. but i am going to get a bender next so i better figure it out soon.
1 1/4 dom, w/.219 wall.
Learning to charge enougth to make it worth your while, yet keep it cheap enough to attract customers is a delimma that all small business owners have faced since the beginning of free enterprise!
The pricing I have set forth above is absolutely bare bones-el cheapo. The tubing cost me around 5.00 a foot,the tooling cost is around 212.00 for the correct taps, and reamers. If you are very careful you may get 20 pieces tapped before the tap wears enough to start giving less than perfect threads, so I send it out and have it sharpened,more$$.Then I have employees, lights , payroll taxes,unemployment taxes,employees benefits,etc,etc. the list of people with their hands out is endless, but I enjoy almost every minute of it.
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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when i first got my cutting torch, a guy that i work with wanted some clothes line poles cut out of his daughters back yard. did it for a plate of brownies and a some psuedo mexican food. i really just wanted brownies, but i ate the rest to be polite. usually i wont eat mexican unless i cook it or she is just cute as hell... :shocked
 

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141 Posts
Sorry didn't see it if this was posted... Can you use the stock 79 bronco drag link with the chevy tie rod conversion?
 

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63 Posts
Dang this is an old thread! It has been over a year since I saw this, glad someone brought it back up.
 

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I am using the chevy TRE's but with threaded hex head weld in bungs 7/8th -18 inserted in 1.5" 1/4 wall DOM.

Spidertrax has just came out with these:


And they have or will soon have the jam nuts!
 

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"Clever User Title Here"
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2,154 Posts
I am using the chevy TRE's but with threaded hex head weld in bungs 7/8th -18 inserted in 1.5" 1/4 wall DOM.

Spidertrax has just came out with these:


And they have or will soon have the jam nuts!
Those are sweet....:rockon

Newb question...what is "high misalignment?"
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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8,676 Posts
It means the TRE has a higher range of motion. Basically, itll twist more before binding up. This way when the pass side droops down, the draglink doesnt bind up at the pitman arm and limit your susp travel (amongst other bad things).
 
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