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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all! The other day I put a new cap / rotor on , as well as replaced a stretch of fuel line that was leaking VERY badly. Since then, I've been met with an awful clicking noise that disappears after maybe a couple minute or maybe after 10-15 minutes. To be clear, it only happens when I fire it up in the morning on my way to work, and then again when i come back home. It sat for a couple hours after getting home from work today, and I wanted to fire it up in the dark so I could try to see if a plug wire was arcing or something. But as luck would have it, it ran fine with no unusual noise. I still checked despite that , and did not see any sparks. Oh yeah, I put a new TFI module on it too

I've put the old cap and rotor back on and no change, I still get that awful clicking noise. Is it possible a TFI module is causing this clicking noise?

Or could it somehow be related to fuel? I do not have a stethoscope (yet) so hard to pinpoint where it's coming from. I couldn't feel any rattling on the distributor when the clicking was present, but I touched the fuel rail, right around the pressure regulator, and it did feel like it was rattling in time with the clicking noise.

The stretch of fuel hose that was leaking was right by the gas tank on the return fuel line. And ok you caught me, I didn't actually replace it yet, I just cut off an inch or 2 of bad fuel hose and now it doesn't leak.


I was thinking maybe a fuel injector, but the vibration is coming from the back, not close to any injectors.

Kind of seems like it may be related to my fuel system, which I really don't understand. In the past few months, I have been running non ethanol gas. Is there any chance in hell that that is hurting anything?

I also have a couple codes. 33, something about the EGR valve. I have replaced all of that system besides the solenoid, which I think is beggining to fail, but I don't think it's my issue here.

And then 96, fuel pump secondary circuit failure. When I bandaged that fuel line, i disconnected the wiring harness from the fuel pump and ran the engine until it died, so as to relieve fuel pressure. So I assume code 96 is from that, but after feeling the fuel rail and pressure regulator vibrating with the clicking noise , I am beginning to wonder if something is awry there.

Any ideas where I could start? I am getting a new distributor this week because the one I just put in it I think is a dud , it hasnt been itself since I put the new distributor in .
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So maybe I should have googled before I posted, because I just watched a video of fuel injectors clicking, and it sounded a hell of a lot like what I am hearing on my truck.

I also went in to read that the alcohol in gas helps to keep injectors clean? Have I been wasting money on Ethanol free that is going to contribute to a dirtier fuel system? How loud can a fuel injector get? Because it actually got pretty loud after I opened up the throttle a bit merging onto the highway. I put these injectors in n maybe a year or two ago. The upgraded ones from an explorer or whatever the case may be.

Perhaps I'll try some fuel injector cleaner in my gas or something. Im really not trying to pull those injectors out right now, since getting that fuel rail on was such a major PITA last time
 

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So maybe I should have googled before I posted, because I just watched a video of fuel injectors clicking, and it sounded a hell of a lot like what I am hearing on my truck.

I also went in to read that the alcohol in gas helps to keep injectors clean? Have I been wasting money on Ethanol free that is going to contribute to a dirtier fuel system? How loud can a fuel injector get? Because it actually got pretty loud after I opened up the throttle a bit merging onto the highway. I put these injectors in n maybe a year or two ago. The upgraded ones from an explorer or whatever the case may be.

Perhaps I'll try some fuel injector cleaner in my gas or something. Im really not trying to pull those injectors out right now, since getting that fuel rail on was such a major PITA last time
Run a bottle of Lucas Brand injector cleanest through your tank…
Add the injector cleaner when your fuel tank is between E and 1/4 tank, then fill up with normal 87 octane fuel (ethanol is fine). Drive at least 5 miles on bumpy roads to help mix the injector cleaner into the fuel.
Repeat the process several times. As preventative maintenance run one bottle of SeaFoam fuel injector cleaner once a year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks slim!
 

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An old mechanic taught me before the days of stethoscopes, you can, CAREFULLY, use a broomstick or dowel as a stethoscope. Just put your ear to the wood and the wood to different places on the vehicle. My broomstick seems to last longer in my shop than a stethoscope.
 
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Driving Stuff Henry Built
*90xlt,351w,e4od,1356m*79,400,C6,205,19donors*73,400,np435,d20j twin
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An old mechanic taught me before the days of stethoscopes, you can, CAREFULLY, use a broomstick or dowel as a stethoscope. Just put your ear to the wood and the wood to different places on the vehicle. My broomstick seems to last longer in my shop than a stethoscope.
Along those lines I like to use a piece of pex pipe. It's the old shadetree trick of putting a hose up to your ear & moving the other end around listening for the source of the ticking. The stiff pex is a little easier to aim. And the natural curve usually works well.

A small exhaust leak can sound very much like a tick. And it can go away as the engine warms up & expands to close the opening. The hose/pex pipe is especially good if there's a exhaust leak. An exhaust leak tick sounds more puffy thru a hose, & gets much louder when the hose is directly over it.
 

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Run a bottle of Lucas Brand injector cleanest through your tank…
Add the injector cleaner when your fuel tank is between E and 1/4 tank, then fill up with normal 87 octane fuel (ethanol is fine). Drive at least 5 miles on bumpy roads to help mix the injector cleaner into the fuel.
Repeat the process several times. As preventative maintenance run one bottle of SeaFoam fuel injector cleaner once a year.
That's funny about the bumpy roads. Broncos are not smooth riding, and with no baffles in the fuel tank, going off road to mix the gas is definitely not necessary.
 

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The '81 I had was rough riding, the '88 i'd had previous, the '89 and '93 I have now aren't bad. Not cars, mind you, or even full length pickups, but not rough.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's funny about the bumpy roads. Broncos are not smooth riding, and with no baffles in the fuel tank, going off road to mix the gas is definitely not necessary.
Haha I was going to say that with the way my suspension is, I don't think I need to drive on a bumpy road. Despite that, I do need to drive 10 minutes on the dirt county road out here to get home .

I gotta hand it to slim, the fuel additive seems like it is working. I wouldn't say the issue is fixed yet, but on my way into work this morning, I just bought whatever fuel injector cleaner they had there. And I had about 3/4 of a tank of fuel, and used a bottle that was good for up to 25 gallons.

The clicking has not been loud since. Its definitely been audible, but not loud at any point.


As far as an exhaust leak, how far back in the system do I need to be concerned about? Obviously if I had a hole in it a few inches from the end of the tail pipe, I wouldn't be concerned about it. Just the seal on the headers? Y pipe? Where do I need to be concerned? Is there any good way to find one?


I do think it is an injector at this point , especially given the efficacy of slims suggestions. And the fuel rail was the only thing vibrating in time with the noise I hearrd.

Thanks for the replies everyone, and thanks for not mentioning my error In the title of this post too.

I really hope that slims plan continues to work until the issue just sorts itself out .
 
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You can get an ethanol neutralizer so you can get the cheaper gas. I put it in every time I fill up so I'm not gunking up my carb.
Liquid Bottle Automotive tire Fluid Drink
 

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As far as an exhaust leak, how far back in the system do I need to be concerned about? Obviously if I had a hole in it a few inches from the end of the tail pipe, I wouldn't be concerned about it. Just the seal on the headers? Y pipe? Where do I need to be concerned? Is there any good way to find one?
A tick sound from an exhaust leak is usually right where the manifold/header bolts to the head, or a leak in the manifold/header itself. It would be where exhaust from an individual cylinder causes the noise. Further down the exhaust system exhaust from multiple cylinders combine, so there's less of a pulse to make that "tick", & you get more of a steady "roar".

Even though they might not cause a tick sound, ehaust leaks anywhere in the system should be repaired. A leak behind the muffler for example can allow soot to build up under your truck, might heat u-joints or a gas tank if the leak was in the wrong place. A common issue for Broncos with an exhaust leak is to have fumes get sucked in the back window. That's why the pipes exit out the side instead of the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The noise came back with a vengeance today. It was running fine despite the noise, but now it sounds awful. Almost like a diesel. I think maybe I messed up my ug wires. I noticed my #4 plug wire was barely seated on the plug, and it sounded a lot better after reseating it. Hopefully I can do some plug wires and be back in business.

God forbid a lifter is bad, Its easy enough to put a head on isn't it? Weekend project?

May need to pull the injectors out and clean them, but I used a hose as a stethoscope and could not pinpoint a place where the noise came from. Valve cover, dizzy, fuel rail, injectors, I couldn't hear it
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I never said off road… I said bumpy roads..
That wasn't supposed to be a jab at you. I think he was just poking fun at the lack of ride quality we put up with driving these things
 
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That wasn't supposed to be a jab at you. I think he was just poking fun at the lack of ride quality we put up with driving these things
So if your ticking hasn’t improved, (and you really think it’s the lifters), get a can of Marvel Mystery Oil and run it through your engine oil for about 100-150 miles and then change your oil… if the noise has gone away, you freed up your lifters… if it didn’t, then it could still be collapsed lifters… without a sound bite it’s hard to help diagnose what’s going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So if your ticking hasn’t improved, (and you really think it’s the lifters), get a can of Marvel Mystery Oil and run it through your engine oil for about 100-150 miles and then change your oil… if the noise has gone away, you freed up your lifters… if it didn’t, then it could still be collapsed lifters… without a sound bite it’s hard to help diagnose what’s going on.
I really don't think it's the valves, I guess just aknowledging the possibility I suppose. I'm going to dick around with it this afternoon and see if I can't figure anything out. If the issue persists, I will post a YouTube video or something. If I do find a resolution , I will update the thread with what it was.

Thanks slim
 

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So if your ticking hasn’t improved, (and you really think it’s the lifters), get a can of Marvel Mystery Oil and run it through your engine oil for about 100-150 miles and then change your oil… if the noise has gone away, you freed up your lifters… if it didn’t, then it could still be collapsed lifters… without a sound bite it’s hard to help diagnose what’s going on.
Love this stuff... Run it thru the other cars on a regular basis every couple few months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I replaced my distributor, no change. New oil, no change. Oil was embarrassingly low, but not too dirty. Then I put on an egr solenoid and no shit it seems to be fixed. I just did a test drive where I really opened up the throttle, it ran great. Given the intermittent nature of the issue, it might just be waiting until the next time I drive it to act up again, but seems to be a lot happier.

Many thanks to the members of this forum for continued support.i can still feel the fuel rail vibrating, but no noise to write home about. I assume I'd feel it vibrate as those things open and close.

If you would, please cross your fingers and knock on some wood for me in hopes that it's actually fixed.
 
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