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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I park on a very slight hill, popped into the house for a minute and left it in 1st gear (didn't use the parking break.) Come out, and my Bronco had rolled into the neighbors porch across the street!! The damage was minimal both to my Bronco and the house thankfully. The clutch was all the way to the floor and would not start. Had a friend tow me out. The neighbor was cool and didn't report it to my insurance but I did have to replace their metal handrail which really saved the house from much more damage. My rear bumber is shot and oblivious have to replace the clutch!!!

Replacing the clutch is well beyond my skill set. You guys are always so helpful, what all am I going to need in parts to get my Bronco back on the road??? It's an 89' Full size Bronco, 4x4 with 300 inline6.

A local friend said to buy the clutch and parts from Rock Auto but I don't know what all to buy?
 

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Shop charges 100-200/ hour, it’s a 6 hour job by the book.

just get a “Clutch Kit” and do it your self. It’s not hard... the kit should consist of a pressure plate, disk, and a bearing... you may or may not need new clutch master/slave cylinders.
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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So the clutch petal goes all the way to the floor, and the starter won’t engage?? Just making sure I understand that right.
Cause that sounds to me more like a linkage/hydraulic issue, your actual clutch might be okay. I know you said you aren’t that mechanical, but did you check the clutch master cylinder, should look kinda like the brake fluid reservoir but a lot smaller. And crawl under the dash to make sure all the linkage down there looks okay still.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I left in 1st gear and after it rolled into the neighbors house the clutch pedal was all the way to the floor. The clutch pedal flips back up into place but then goes all the way to the floor. The starter does not engage at all.

I didnt mention that just about 12 days before this happend I paid a mobile mechanic to put on a used rear end because I threw an axle. He did a complete rear break job and had to the flare new break lines. He also took out and replaced the u joint on the driveshaft.

I was pleased to have it running again but after doing a few small trips I started to hear an occassionl rattling right before shifting into 2nd. Also shifting into 2nd and 3rd felt a little rough like I wasnt pushing the clutch down far enough. In fact the day all this happend I decided to stop downshifting and was I going to have a real shop check it out.

Could the clutch failure be related to a botched job done by that mobile mechanic on the rear end job?

What am I looking for with a linkage/hydraulic issue? I'll check it out tmrw. Thanks for your response I appreciate it!
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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So the clutch petal goes all the way to the floor, and the starter won’t engage?? Just making sure I understand that right.
I read the OP as the clutch safety switch isn't being triggered, not that the starter won't engage. Look at the clutch pedal linkage and the 6-wire connector to the master cylinder pushrod that attaches to its pivot. Sounds like something is amiss there, allowing the pedal to go the floor without the safety switch sensing it.

Points for admitting your mistake. People, ALWAYS use the parking brake! I don't care how perfectly level the surface is. I've had this discussion with friends driving automatics even...if the gearing doesn't hold, you've got nothing in your corner when it comes to being fault-free. In a Manual, putting it in gear helps slightly, but that's never a substitute for the e-brake.
 

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So... after rereading this thread... I father two things... first the Neteral Safety Switch is not working correctly and secondly either the throughout bearing isn’t disengaging the pressure plate, or the synchros aren’t meshing inside the transmission.

I think you were correct in the second post, take it to a competent mechanic, and be prepared to spend about $1000 to get the clutch done... It could be as simple as the clutch master cylinder push rod slipped off and needs a new clip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I left in 1st gear and after it rolled into the neighbors house the clutch pedal was all the way to the floor. The clutch pedal flips back up into place but then goes all the way to the floor. The starter does not engage at all.

I didnt mention that just about 12 days before this happend I paid a mobile mechanic to put on a used rear end because I threw an axle. He did a complete rear break job and had to the flare new break lines. He also took out and replaced the u joint on the driveshaft.

I was pleased to have it running again but after doing a few small trips I started to hear an occassionl rattling right before shifting into 2nd. Also shifting into 2nd and 3rd felt a little rough like I wasnt pushing the clutch down far enough. In fact the day all this happend I decided to stop downshifting and was I going to have a real shop check it out.

Could the clutch failure be related to a botched job done by that mobile mechanic on the rear end job?

What am I looking for with a linkage/hydraulic issue? I'll check it out tmrw. Thanks for your response I appreciate it
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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The NSS isnt the culprit because that cant keep the pedal on the floor.

The issue is either the clutch pedal spring or the hydraulics.

You also have a weak firewall and it needs reinforced. There is a fix panel available from bronco graveyard. This can cause the pedal to not compress the master cylinder all the way.
 

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I live on a rather steep hill.. at the end of a cul-de-sac. I always put the transmission in second gear and apply the parking break before exiting. Of course I got into a hurry a few times and did not set the parking break. My Bronco ends up in the middle of the cul-de-sac about 30 feet down from where it was parked. scary stuff because I have a neighbors house at the bottom of the hill 150 feet away. The Bronco did not jump out of gear... but just somehow slowly creeps downhill in second gear until it hits a level spot or the curb. Most of the time I already have the wheels turned slightly so it just does a C move and doesn't go straight backward. The first time it happened I thought it was impossible to get the Bronco going backward while in a forward running gear …. but sadly it has happened three times in the last 8 years I have lived there. It does not damage anything ( at least so far as I can tell) to the Bronco/ transmission / or clutch.
 

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The only time I've had the clutch completely fail on my Bronco was when the throwout bearing came apart. The pedal went to the floor and wouldn't come back up unless I pulled on it. A few days prior, it made a bunch of noise, but still worked. Then, driving home from work one day, it just went crunch when I put the pedal to the floor, and that was that.
My guess is that's what you have going on.

I did have an issue for a while with the pedal not returning, and this turned out to be an issue with the return spring under the dash. The little "rollers" on the end of the spring had broken, so it was binding. However, the clutch still worked and everything drove as normal. It just wouldn't always pop back up after I put the pedal to the floor (scary).

Otherwise, if the clutch itself was slipping, your pedal would still work. I also can't see any correlation between having work done on the rear end and your clutch.


As for what to buy, you can get a full kit that comes with a clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. Just grab one for your year, engine, and transmission.

As others have said, replacing a clutch really isn't all that hard. Just time consuming.
 

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The first time it happened I thought it was impossible to get the Bronco going backward while in a forward running gear
I see it as no different than starting from a stop on a steep hill. No matter how good you are with the clutch, you're going to roll back some. That's why I say, putting it in gear helps some when the parking brake is set, but is by no means a substitute.
 
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