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We just put a new transmission in it along with a clutch slave cylinder and it was working fine until i went reverse and went to put it in first after stopping the clutch got hard and made a noise and then went to the floor and now i cant start it up and move it does anyone know what the problem is?
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Have the same issue. My newish slave cylinder was bad. Though i havent installed a new one yet.

Could also be a broken return spring on the clutch pedal.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Im thinking its the clutch master cylinder
Thats what i thought too, but after removing it, the compression on it felt the same as the new in box one. So i compressed the slave cylinder with my hand. It was real weak. Got a new one and its much stiffer. Only 1200 miles on the previous one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats what i thought too, but after removing it, the compression on it felt the same as the new in box one. So i compressed the slave cylinder with my hand. It was real weak. Got a new one and its much stiffer. Only 1200 miles on the previous one.
Hmm my slave cylinder doesn’t have a lot of miles it was new and haven’t been used that much
 

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I spoke wrong, I had 2400 miles on it. 2350 of it was highway miles. The other 50max were offroading in Moab.

Maybe @AbandonedBronco can shed some light on the subject?
 

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1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
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Never had a clutch go out like you've described.
I'm assuming you've blead the clutch cylinder?

You should be able to get her outta gear and start in neutral. If no start, check the safety switch at the clutch pedal. Don't know why a tranny/clutch would create a no start situation.
 

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Never had a clutch go out like you've described.
I'm assuming you've blead the clutch cylinder?

You should be able to get her outta gear and start in neutral. If no start, check the safety switch at the clutch pedal. Don't know why a tranny/clutch would create a no start situation.
Yes we bled it im gonna buy a master cylinder and bleed it and hope that solves it
 

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Never had a clutch go out like you've described.
I'm assuming you've blead the clutch cylinder?

You should be able to get her outta gear and start in neutral. If no start, check the safety switch at the clutch pedal. Don't know why a tranny/clutch would create a no start situation.
My situation seems to mirror the OP. I started it to go to lunch, it was a bit soft. Went to pull into traffic and the pedal stayed on the floor. Let ot sit a few hours and it made it home, barely. Next time I go to start it, clutch sticks to the floor but wont crank over. Pulled on the safety switch, still nothing. Pulled the pedal up, smashed it, and repeated and it never wanted to even click.

Checked the spring, not visually broken, and in fact, once the pedal is pulled slightly up, it bounces fully up. So naturally I assumed master cylinder. Which was new too. So now I have a new master and slave cylinders, but found a wear spot in the line. Not letting air out, and holds mild vacuum. So ill replace that and put both new cylinders on and see if that works. I also have a homemade brace for the pre92 flexy firewall.

@JWBronco95 is your bronco a 95? Or older than 92? 84-91 didnt have a stiff enough firewall for a hydraulic clutch
 
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Discussion Starter #10
My situation seems to mirror the OP. I started it to go to lunch, it was a bit soft. Went to pull into traffic and the pedal stayed on the floor. Let ot sit a few hours and it made it home, barely. Next time I go to start it, clutch sticks to the floor but wont crank over. Pulled on the safety switch, still nothing. Pulled the pedal up, smashed it, and repeated and it never wanted to even click.

Checked the spring, not visually broken, and in fact, once the pedal is pulled slightly up, it bounces fully up. So naturally I assumed master cylinder. Which was new too. So now I have a new master and slave cylinders, but found a wear spot in the line. Not letting air out, and holds mild vacuum. So ill replace that and put both new cylinders on and see if that works. I also have a homemade brace for the pre92 flexy firewall.

@JWBronco95 is your bronco a 95? Or older than 92? 84-91 didnt have a stiff enough firewall for a hydraulic clutch
Yea its a 95
 

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The only time I've had this happen, the throwout bearing grenaded.

This was on a hydraulic clutch NP-435, and not quite the same design, but still.

I put the pedal to the floor, heard and felt a loud crunch and that was that. The bearing had blown to pieces and threw ball bearings all over. The pedal stayed on the floor since there was no pressure making it return.





If I recall, the throwout bearing only had some couple thousand miles on it. Just a bad one.
 

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The only time I've had this happen, the throwout bearing grenaded.

This was on a hydraulic clutch NP-435, and not quite the same design, but still.

I put the pedal to the floor, heard and felt a loud crunch and that was that. The bearing had blown to pieces and threw ball bearings all over. The pedal stayed on the floor since there was no pressure making it return.





If I recall, the throwout bearing only had some couple thousand miles on it. Just a bad one.
This whole time I was envisioning the PO having a trans with external slave. Didnt even cross my mind that he had the M5R2.

Thanks though, now I have another thing to check! And my throwout bearing is only 2400 miles old too
 

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I figured it out the rod going from the master cylinder to the clutch popped off so i put a pin to hold it since the correct pin broke
There is supposed to be a small plastic bushing that clips into the eye on the master cylinder rod. It likes to break, causing problems with the safety switch not fully engaging. You absolutely need that bushing, or you'll wear through the pin on the pedals and have to eventually swap them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There is supposed to be a small plastic bushing that clips into the eye on the master cylinder rod. It likes to break, causing problems with the safety switch not fully engaging. You absolutely need that bushing, or you'll wear through the pin on the pedals and have to eventually swap them out.
Okay ill look for one also was that your problem with yours too?
 

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Okay ill look for one also was that your problem with yours too?
No, but i had that happen in a 95 F250. To start it, even with the rod in the right spot, i had to pull back on the safety switch, as the broken bushing kept the clutch master rod from compressing fully. Drove fine, just wouldn't start without pulling the switch. Lol, nice little anti theft device.
 

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No, but i had that happen in a 95 F250. To start it, even with the rod in the right spot, i had to pull back on the safety switch, as the broken bushing kept the clutch master rod from compressing fully. Drove fine, just wouldn't start without pulling the switch. Lol, nice little anti theft device.
Yea definitely i hope you figure your out
 
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