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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1996 F150 302, 5 speed, pulled code P1359. Just changed plugs(.055), new Accell 8.8mm wires, MSD cap and rotor, MSD Streetfire coil, and timed at 14 degrees advanced. After this, my P0401 code(EGR insufficient flow) went away. Now while driving home from work, CEL came on and got P1359 and P0401 came back. Pulled SPOUT and timing is still at 14. Put SPOUT back in, and it is advancing as normal. Truck has a Real slight miss at lower RPM while cruising at speed, just like before I tuned it up. The cap and rotor were bad for sure. The old plugs showed no bad signs, other than being old and normal wear. Now the possible causes for code P1359 are, spout plug missing, bad ignition control module, or open circuit condition. Now the spout is in and working. Where should I go from here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anyone?
 

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I would double check your spark plug wire connections and also make sure none are on the header or manifolds, and also check to make sure none of your spark plugs got cracked on installation, ive done it before by accident :duh. and also double check the firing order. and also check for vacuum leaks. hope that helps
 

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When i got this code, my bronco died... turns out it was the PIP or pickup coil. Check all that blue 95gt mentioned, twice over. Maybe try backing down the timing a little bit, 14 deg may be a little more than you bronco likes, put it to 10 deg (stock), clear codes and troubleshoot from there. If you still come up with nothing, maybe swap out that msd coil back to your stock coil if it was good. Check your dizzy cap for cracks/distortion too. If you come up with nothing, take your ICM out and take it to advanced or autozone and get it checked no less than 3 times back to back to get it nice and hot. If you have a remote mounted ICM, you may want to take it out of the heat sink before you get it tested. Mine never really got heated up but tested out fine, hindsight's 20/20 though. Also, not saying you didn't but search is your friend, you will find a lot more information on this. Make sure you report back with your findings as others (as well as me) have these problems all the time. Good luck.
 

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yo, all I have is;
P1359 Spark output circuit condition
ECM detected no SPOUT signal from distributor
Probable Cause:
SPOUT connector missing
Open circuit condition
Ignition control module fault


Traveler had the Code back in 06; he "I was putting a remote starter on this weekend and to get to the door lock wires I pulled the E-brake down. I noticed the ECM case is all rusty .... pulled the ECM out and sanded all of the steel around the case, and the brackets it slides into"


EDIT: I somehow over-wrote this when C&Ping from broncolinks.com;
Pin-Point Testing;

P1359 - Da PCM has determined that there is no advance of the ignition timing.
1. Check the Spark Output (SPOUT) connector near the Ignition Control Module (ICM) at the rear of driver side fender apron (near hood hinge) to see if the SPOUT connector is missing or is making poor contact to the connector.

2. If the SPOUT connector & connection appear to be in good condition, install a timing light onto #1 spark plug wire and check for timing advance at idle with the engine running.
Ignition timing should indicate 10 degrees BTDC with the SPOUT connector removed but timing should then advance when the connector is plugged back in.

3. If there is no timing advance using a timing light, check the Pink (PK) wire at the ICM connection for a square-wave signal as the engine is running using a labscope. See diagram below

4. If there is no signal present on the PK wire, check the PK wire between the ICM and PCM pin 50 for an open circuit.

5. If the circuit checks to be OK and ignition timing appears to be advancing over base timing with the SPOUT connector installed, clear the code, disconnect the voltage regulator at the alternator and drive the vehicle for several miles to check for the light to illuminate and the code to reset.

6. Check coil output of all individual spark plug wire ends to verify that spark will jump a 1/2-3/4" gap consistently and that it has a bluish tint of color to it.

7. If spark output is weak or erratic, replace the coil and re-check for the setting of the service code.

8. Also inspect all plug wires ends for potential pin-hole leaks that could allow spark to arc to the cylinder heads in the plug well. Run a grounded screw driver up and down the plug wire boot as the wire is connected to a spark tester to determine if any of the wires are faulty.

9. If timing advance appears to be working properly and there are no electrical issues related to the alternator, coil or plug wires, either the PCM or the ICM will need to be substituted to determine if one of them is causing the condition.


Use duiagram in lower right hand corner (1996 CCD H)

by Ford via Steve83
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks miesk5, that's what I'm looking for. I double and triple checked all wires, firing order is correct. I put my stock coil back in, and CEL went away instantly, which I though was weird, cause it usually takes a couple times driving to clear the code. And the CEL was back on about 20 minutes of driving later. Drove 90 miles, and cleared the code. Drove 90 miles back with multiple stops, and no code yet. We'll see what happens.
 

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Thanks miesk5, that's what I'm looking for. I double and triple checked all wires, firing order is correct. I put my stock coil back in, and CEL went away instantly, which I though was weird, cause it usually takes a couple times driving to clear the code. And the CEL was back on about 20 minutes of driving later. Drove 90 miles, and cleared the code. Drove 90 miles back with multiple stops, and no code yet. We'll see what happens.
yo,
yw!
How was the coil connector looking? I've heard that some owners have found considerbale corrosion in the conn's terminals and in wires, even underneath insulation... same for coil side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yo,
yw!
How was the coil connector looking? I've heard that some owners have found considerbale corrosion in the conn's terminals and in wires, even underneath insulation... same for coil side.
It looked OK. I also figured out that the previous owner had the timing mark at about 14* and not 10*, so I bumped it back down. Runs good now. No CEL, but it still feels like there is a very slight miss. Oh well, if it breaks, I'll put in a 351.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Damn J, your all over that 6.0 upgrade....nice work
Thanks man, you need to get on it. Put down the wire wheel and do it to it.
 
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