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F.O.T.Y. 2003
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8,396 Posts
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81 Air management 2 circuit failure (AM2/TAD)
82 Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAD)
85 Canister Purge Solinoid Failure
95 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
(EEC senses ground from pump an circuit)

........
43 EVP intermittent failure above closed limit of 0.67
41 NO HEGO switching detected always lean (left side)
91 same as 41


:banghead

Really dont want to deal with this again. Think I may just let the dealer have a go at it, tell me whats up.
 

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455 Posts
OK Crazed, here goes:

81 and 82 refer to the thermactor air diverter and bypass solenoids. Probably bad solenoids or maybe sticking.

85 is probably a bad charcoal canister purge solenoid, or maybe sticking. You'll have to follow the canister lines to find it, if it's not located on the canister itself.

95.....??? My book shows this code as being a thermactor problem, maybe related to 81 and 82??? Does it run OK?

43 EVAP.....might disappear if the 85 is corrected.

41 and 91, probably bad O2 sensor 1, since it's not switching.

Man that's lots of codes. I'd look at fixing the O2 sensor codes first. Get it running good, and then address the emissions codes.
 

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you can either try to go on what you know right now, or clear the codes to see if they come back then deal with it. if you don't have a diagnostic tool then run a self test, then un-hook the jumper after the codes start to blink, that deletes all codes according to haynes.
 

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yea man with fuel prices the way they are it will save you money to go ahead and get someone who knows what they are doin do it and go ahead and get it done so u can go back to gettin normal milage
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
I pulled 33 and 41

33- EGR valve bla bla
41- HEGO bla bla

Left them both alone and I really dont think this is affrecting anything.
 

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Crazed, with your knowledge, I doubt if a professional tech could do better.

The first thing he'll do is replace the upstream O2 sensor. If that dosen't work, then he'll chase down the wiring, etc. and still charge you for the sensor. You can do that yourself, for less money.

If you're sure there are no vacuum leaks, then the idle problem could be the IAC. They won't trigger a code. I'd try removing and cleaning it, and check the wiring/plug-in with a voltmeter.

The other codes are emissions related, and some will probably disappear when the main culprit is found. When I mentioned sticking solenoids, I was referring to the electrical portion, since the codes refer to circuit failures. You can also check the wiring to them with a multimeter. Once you get it idleing good and mpg back to normal (hopefully with a new O2), you can basically fix the emissions stuff at your leisure.

Is there something that would cause all these codes at once? like a vacuum leak?
A vacuum leak will cause all kinds of grief, and it won't show up in a lean code, IF the O2 sensor is bad.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Let me get this strait?

Your thinking of taking a Bronco that has a Mass-Air swap to the dealer?

They will probably tell you the problem is that you tampered with it.


Crazed said:
81 Air management 2 circuit failure (AM2/TAD)
82 Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAD).
These two are for the air injection system. Is your smogpump/thermactic system still there or has it been removed?
My Bronco doesn't have a smog pump/air injection system so my A9-P always has this code. These codes will not affect driveability or turn on the check engine light.


Crazed said:
85 Canister Purge Solinoid Failure.
I get this one too. I dont have a Canister Purge Solinoide (althoe I do plan on installing one)
This code will not affect driveability or turn on the check engine light.



Crazed said:
95 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
(EEC senses ground from pump an circuit).
This is a fluke, erase it and see if it comes back.


Crazed said:
43 EVP intermittent failure above closed limit of 0.67).
This means the EVP has (intermittenly) gave a reading that is inpossable for a properly operating EVP. I would replace it.


Crazed said:
41 NO HEGO switching detected always lean (Right side)
91 same as 41 (but for left side)
Check the fuel pressure. Believe it or not if the regulator fails it can run so Rich that the HEGO reads lean. This will screw up idle and eat gas like crazy.

That is exactly what happened on Mr. Ranger. 10mpg and code 41, checked the fuel pressure and it was at 90psi. Replaced the FPR, pressure went back to 30psi and mileage went back to 18mpg.
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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Gacknar said:
Let me get this strait?

Your thinking of taking a Bronco that has a Mass-Air swap to the dealer?

They will probably tell you the problem is that you tampered with it.

That's what I was gonna say. I refuse to take my vehicle to a shop for engine work. Especially with a modifoed engine like ours, they will either say they can't help and refuse to look at it or charge several hours labor just to get aquainted with the setup and then tell you they couldn't figure it out anyway(that'll still be $300 for our time though).
 

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DO NOT go to the dealer! You will be sorry!

Hey... I took mine to the "professionals" at VOGLER FORD in CARBONDALE, IL and got screwed!... I was stupid. Don't make the same mistake!

I just got my first Bronco. I lived in Europe and haven't had many American cars but we needed something cheap to hall some stuff this summer before we move and the Bronco was a good deal.

I got this Bronco with rebuilt engine and tranny, it's in really good shape clean under the hood and great looking interior... needs paint.

That said it has two problems... the ECL comes on and I checked the codes using a jumper wire and the ECL light... 41 and 33.

I didn't have time to fool with it and was in a hurry to get it squared away... took it to the dealer... the "professionals."

They charged me $709 for a new O2 sensor and an EGR valve replacement. Told me a bunch of crap about how they had to "get into the engine a bit" to replace EGR valve... total BS (didn't realize it at the time)!

I have done some basic repairs on my cars... alternator things like that... but didn't have time to deal with it so I decided to pay the "professionals" and get it taken care of... but after they replaced the O2 sensor and the EGR valve the ECL still comes on and runs the same codes.

They charged me $709 and didn't even check to see if the freakin' light would come on again.

I was so ticked I decided to fix it myself... oh yeah, forgot to mention they broke the PRNDL indicator when they were dorkin' around with my truck... how they did that one I don't know... there is a little gear like thingy by the transmission that moves the gear indicator on the instrument panel... it was broken when I picked it up and worked when I dropped it off. Of course they swear they had nothing to do with it... "just a coincidence."

Anyway... when I had time to look into it I saw that there isn't any "getting into the engine" to replace the EGR valve... they lied. They told me they checked to see if the ECL came on anymore and they said it didn't... they lied... it comes on EVERY time it is driven for more than fifteen minutes which is exactly what I told them when I dropped it off.

Thanks to all the great guys and gals on this forum I am getting closer to the problem, I think... did I really need a new EGR? I'm going to say no since the dealerships honesty level has been less than reputable in their dealings with me.

I still don't know why the HEGO is showing system lean/not detecting (41 code) but I think it is related to the EGR valve problem... maybe not but that is tomorrow's problem.

Anyway... VOGLER FORD in CARBONDALE, IL is a scam... they lie about just about everything and I am more than willing to bet that they will charge you a heck of a lot of money and not fix the problem!

I can say there are honest mechanics out there... my Dad is one. Please don't be offended I assume a person is honest until they prove otherwise... VOGLER FORD in CARBONDALE, IL has at least some dishonest mechanics or dishonest policies. DO NOT GO THERE!

Best of Luck,
Todd
 

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I'm curious whether you got your code issues resolved and how you did it.

My own issues:

Bronco sat for 2 years and mice chewed (massive sections) vacuum lines; I've spliced/patched 'til I thought they were sound, not so sure now after running codes. Will be visiting JY this AM to find total replacements.
Two weeks of ts'ing/restoring included; replaced battery, changed all fluids/filters, set plugs, timing is 10* btdc, compression good all around, repl'd trans modulator (restored hi gear), Seafoam'd intake (full can), fuel (1/2 can) and crankcase (1/2 can and will change oil/check plugs again soon), cleaned IAC and TB. First crank-up in 2 years, loped once and fired! DAMN, you gotta love these beasts!!!!!
I am now left with intermittent high idle/rough idle but no hesitation with acceleration. After kind of getting on it, idle wants to hang at 2k. Restart brings it back to 750-800. Mileage is crap.

Codes (obtained after battery disc and 15 mile drive to ensure they were 'fresh'):
KOEO - 23 - Closed TPS voltage HI or LO (I vm'd and came up within specs of 1.0v idle/4.6v WOT)

Continuous - 33 - EGR not opening (will vac test to verify and repl as nec.)
- 41 - HEGO detected lean right side (per Gacknar, may be FPR, which I also suspect due to mice/vac prob but no way to verify press. Haynes test? May repl O2 sensor on right side.)

KOER - 12 - Cannot control RPM, Hi RPM check (?? I'm lost on this one)
- 23 - Same above
- 33 - Same above
- 41 - No HEGO switching - Always lean right side.

With EGR ts'ing intend to check/test;
- vac line into EGR for diaphram operation,
- test EVP .24v - .67v at idle,
- test EVR by grounding pin 33.

This site has been a fantastic guide and any other input is muchly appreciated.
 
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