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Hi guys, noob question here. I have a 93 5.0 and I've been having starting problems for a couple months now. Starts fine if the engine is warm, but if it's been sitting for a couple hours I'll either get a click like the battery's dead, it'll crank but not turn over, or both. It takes at least 5-10 tries to get it started, that is if it starts at all. I've replaced the starter motor, solenoid, cap and rotor, and coil. I'm going to do plugs and wires next. Hoping that's it, but I figured I'd post here and see if anyone has any advice and/or a similar experience. Thanks!
 

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Test the ECT = engine temp sensor, it's a fuel manager at cold start usually located in the lower intake manifold in a "hex riser", any serious issues it will prevent the engine from starting.......

Test the TPS = throttle position sensor and clean the inside of your IAC = idle air control valve there's a ton of info, try Seattle FSB for how to.

Check ALL battery cables and wires that converge onto the "starter relay", check test if you have a TFI ignition module on the distributor.

Make sure the battery is in good shape but put a 850CCA battery on your wish list.....AND there's a thread on testing the starter motor, look for "voltage drop test" can be done right in the garage.

Do you have any issues with your column shifter, lifting or jiggling it in order to start, if you have an AOD there's a simple linkage adjustment you can do underneath, it's listed in the Haynes Manual, 5 minutes max.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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yo K,
Have you inspected and cleaned batty posts, terminals, cable strands for corrosion and tightness as well as all major grounds from batty to frame and to engine and from eng to firewall?
If all are clean and tight, test batty at local parts store under load.
I had a dead cell that did same no crank then after turning to start a few times, it would crank.
"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..."
Source: by powermastermotorsports

Check Starter relay on inner fender;
Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper; see attached diagram



Is Check Engine Light ON while driving?
Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it, which does happen, unfortunately.

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded
A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.
Some basics;
Visual Check
1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage; IAC, TPS I see was replaced, etc.5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality. See E4OD Fluid Condition Check Below)
7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing
8. Check headlights

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)

Then turn off engine and wait 10 seconds.

Do KOEO test First

Post Code(s) here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
 

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