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Come one Come all, check out the Kenne Bell Install

13525 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  BKB
Ok guys so let me start off with the truck has sat in a shed for about 4 months or so, that is why it is so dirty and rusty. I do love this truck it start in a barn for 7 months while I was in Iraq only to fire right up the day I got home, didn't even need a jump! I have put about 60k miles on her and only thing to ever happen was a dead alt. and the belt tensioner broke... needless to say the belt tensioner is still an issue that I have finally found the upgrade/fix for. Also I have had this supercharger for quite some time did one install attempt and backed out because it was still my DD, now that I have my stroke this has become my trail rig only. The install is not complete, the inline fuel pump still has to be installed (the metal ford quick fuel connects had to be bought off the internet so they are en route), the fuel pressure gauge sits to high to be installed so I had to connect autometer and get a 90degree elbow off the fuel rail valve, the new long tube headers need installed with the wideband O2 sensor, the Hobbs switch and relay for the fuel system still to install, the excursion overhead console with the removed AC controls-gauges installed in it-needs to be installed (another writeup to be done). Then all the finishing touches that will be done with the AFR 185 heads, EGR spacer delete, and larger TB install. I just did this install to drive it once across the field. The next install with the new heads will allow me to finish removing all the smog crap without a CEL. Ok Ok enough check out some pictures, ask questions, and see my gallery.
All Stock

All Kenne Bell

Old lower manifold

GT40 Lightning new lower

With the huge exhaust leak, wrong air intake, a few vaccum leaks, and me being a girl with the pedal watch her idle and rev!

OOPS that was without the blower
With the Blower

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Just to be the first to state some bad things here, the intake was designed without the EGR spacer that is why it doesn't fit. All the vaccum lines were/are being replaced with better routed stuff to clean it up... AND I know the exhaust leak is bad and the smoke from the headers is not oil but the 2 cans of WD40 I sprayed.
He can do it with an FMU and a timing retard box. Not much more needed than that (maybe a booster fuel pump), and it's the way Vortech made their setup for the Lightnings.
I didn't even realize Kenne Bell had a setup for our trucks.
They did (not on their website anymore), but this one is not for the bronco/normal F150. The full kit keeps the inlet (throttle body) in the stock location. The inlet to the blower was still in the rear, and there was a cast aluminum tube that went around the passenger side and allowed the TB to mount to it. They were around $5000 not long ago. No idea when they discontinued the setup from their website.
I picked-up a First Generation lightiening kit from Kenne Bell. I am running a 90mm Lightning MAF, 75mm throttle body, 42lb injectors, inline high flow BBK fuel pump, a Tweecer tune, and am running only 6lbs of boost on a budget built 393. On a stock engine you can get away with stock injectors, an FMU, and lower timing but it won't be tuned the best as with a custom tune/chip or Tweecer. I also run a combo boost/vacume gauge and need to add a fuel pressure gauge. I consider those two gauges the minimum to keep track of a possible lean condition. An Air to fuel ratio guage would be good to have as well.

Don't blow it up. I spent a head gasket and then a piston. The first when I went to 9lbs with a Powerdyne blower, the latter similar to the first, pushing too much boost for my tune, 11lbs, with a Kenne Bell, and over-revving the thing! I beleive anything over 9lbs with a kenne bell is too much as it dump right in the intake with no cooler. I suppose water injection could solve the problem.

Good luck with it. Supercharging is the replacement for displacement! You now have a variable compression engine. Mild until you put your foot into it!
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Well ok, I am Speed density still, no MAF here, I run a FMU unit with a 10:1 disk may bump up to 12:1, I am running a Crane HI6 ignition box, have been for some time, and a timing retard control. I run a 255lph Walbro inline fuel pump which supplies all the fuel to the FMU to get my 19lb injectors to run enough fuel for the boost, it is activated via a 2psi hobbs switch which relays on the inline fuel pump so it only runs when the engine sees boost. This engine still has the stock E7 heads and cam, it now has the GT40 lightning lower intake and the lightning Kenne Bell, the Lightning Kenne Bell can turn up to 18+ psi!!! I don't plan to run but max 10psi until the motor gives but I have a fuel pressure gauge, Wideband 02 sensor, and Vac/boost gauge so all the vitals are under wraps.
The kenne bell is a 2.2L blower, and with the change to the GT40 lower is all stock to the 351W engine. It runs like a dream and once is all complete, again I am being deployed so there are finishing touches, will run just like stock, sound stock, but will blow your doors off when I need the power off the line. The best part is that I will not be making huge runs under full power so the intake air charge will not be too hot to truly effect me, yes it will get warmer but not so much to hurt me and it is a trail rig I am not out for street racing power but torque off to get me over the obstacles. I highly recommend this type of install for all. I will one day change over to the lightning Speed Density ECM and get it tuned via a tweecer for 42lb injectors, at which time I can delete the FMU and timing retard box.
As for a dyno I do have some stock number but I will post them with the blower numbers when I get it to the dyno, I can still tune with the FMU, base timing, and retard box. Just takes a little more time.
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I don't wanna stick a fork in your weenie, but get some better heads on that ASAP. You'll get respectable power out of that setup for sure, yet the E7s are leaving a lot on the table. I'm betting you already know this though. :toothless
Yes I know the stock E7s and cam really hammer my gains but the AFR 185s will net me about 70hp just from being installed not to mention the better cooling of an alumium head. I just can not decide on a good cam or if I am even going to Cam it. I really want everyone to see that changing to the GT40 is an easier install then people believe and that with just basic hand tools you can make a 351w a quite lively motor!
ford made a cam for auto's that was suppose to make better low end torque (b303) withoutbeing all that radical, thats and the heads would gain alot without bumping ur power band to high...idk if they ake a retrofit setup for the 351 tho,

Many better cams then this out there. A call to comp cams will net you better performance for probably less money.
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