[El Kabong]

I got tired of looking for these replies whenever one of the regular questions comes up. So I'm throwing them here to be refined & reused as needed. These are by no means the complete answers to these questions, but are meant to be taken as part of the info available. It's better to read the complete threads that contain the other answers too.

Feel free to correct mine or add your own. Post it up here & I'll add it to the contents in post 1. Just use the same Q & A format. If you have more info on something that's already there, just use the same number as the original question, & I'll add it on the same line. If we all kick in answers to these common questions, we should be able to cover a lot of ground.



....0- Contents (Post 1)

....1- What year Bronco should I buy? (Post 2)
....2- What are common problems to watch out for when buying a Bronco? (Post 2)

....3- How do I fix my back window? (Post 3)

....4- How do I post pics? (Post 4)

....5- How do I add a little picture under my name at the left of the screen? (Post 5)
....6- How do I change the stuff under my name at the left of the screen? (Post 5)
....7- How do I add a signature under my posts? (Post 5)
....8- Why doesn't my signature always show up? (Post 5)

....9- How do I Bleed My Brakes? (Post 6)

....10- My Rear ABS light comes on (87-92). Why? (Post 8)
....11- My Rear brakes drag (87-92). Why? (Post 8)

....12- Will 33 inch tires rub on my Bronco? (Post 9)

....13- What do the axle gear ratio numbers mean? (3.55:1, 4.10:1, etc.) (Post 10)
....14- Which gears are higher or lower? (Post 10)
....15- What gear ratio do I have? (Post 10)
....16- If I change the rear gears do I have to change the front too? (Post 10)
....17- How do I choose the right gears? (Post 10)

....18- Where can I find info about my Holley carburetor? (Post 11)
....19- Why does my engine stumble when I step on the gas? (Post 11)

....20- Why won't my tailgate open even if the window is rolled all the way down? (Post 12)

....21- I'm going to visit the Los Angeles area. What is there to do? (Post 13)

....22- My Bronco doesn't have an exterior tire carrier. Can I add one? (Post 14)

....23 -My Bronco won't turn over (Won't crank, start, make the Rrrr Rrrr Rrrr sound), but makes a screeching, grinding, clicking, or buzzing noise, or no sound at all, when I try to start it. Why? (Post 15)

....24 -My starter keeps running. Where do I start? (Post 16)

....25 -My bronco won't start. It cranks over but has no spark, why? theramsey3 (Post 17)

....26-What Transfer Case Do I Have? Ziggy (Post 21)

....27-I found a 2wd transmission that I want to use. Can I simply unbolt the tailhousing and bolt on a t-case adapter? Dustball (Post 22)

....28- I'm trying to start a vehicle that has been sitting for a long time. What should I do? (Post 23)

....29- My truck has a vibration. How do I check U-joints? (Post 24)

....30- How do I test my hubs? (Post 25)
....31- How do I know my transfer case is engaging? (Post 25)

....32- How Do I Operate My Manual Hubs? (Except for 87 to Early 88 Flange Type Hubs) miesk5 (Post 26)

....33- How do I test my 96's Automatic Locking Hubs? miesk5 (Post 26)

....34-How do I test my 96's Manual Locking Hubs? miesk5 (Post 26)

....35- How Do I Test Manual Locking Hubs? (Except for 87 to Early 88 Flange Type Hubs) miesk5 (Post 26)

....36- How Do I Troubleshoot the Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift-On-The- Fly (ESOF) Transfer Case & Locking Hubs? miesk5 (Post 26)

....37- Will Changing Just Two Tires to a Different Size (Diameter/Circumference) &/Or Air Pressure Difference Affect My Bronco in 4x4 Mode?
..........miesk5 (Post 26)

....38- Why do I need 75 posts to see the classified section? (Post 27)

....39- Should I install a Flex Fan on my Bronco? (Post 28)

....40- Do I need 30 Posts to start a Thread on FSB? (Post 29)
....41- How do I ask questions without 30 Posts? (Post 29)
....42- My posts don't seem to be counting. Why? (Post 29)

....43- I am new here. How do I get started? (Post 30)

....44- What is Top4x4 & what is the voting about? (Post 31)

....45- How do I check for bad u-joints? (Post 32)
....46- My driveshaft makes a "ringing" sound. Why? (Post 32)

 

[El Kabong]

1- What year Bronco should I buy?
2- What are common problems to watch out for when buying a Bronco?

The body style breaks are 78-79, 80-86, 87-91, & 92-96. If you look thru the Post a Pic of your Bronco 80-96 Thread & Post a Picture of your Bronco 78-79 Thread you can see the different styles. As they get newer, wheel openings seem to get smaller.

1980 had an odd frame with holes in it. In 81 they went back to the solid frame. I think in 92 they went to the accordion style frame horns, so it can be trickier to add recovery points. 87 & some 88s with manual hubs had the top hat hubs which are expensive to replace, & require a lot of additional parts to swap to the more common hubs, avoid those if you can. 87 & 88 auto hubs can be swapped easily like other years. Auto hubs are prone to fail, but changing to manual hubs is pretty simple. Don't let auto hubs deter you from buying an otherwise good truck, just plan on making the switch. There are several good write ups on swapping them if the time comes.

Broncos with 302s had EFI before the 351s. As you move to newer trucks, the electronic systems become more advanced. If it has EFI, you should be able to pull codes from the computer to help with diagnostic issues. 96s (Maybe some 95s) are MAF (Which is more adaptable to intake/cam changes) & are OBDII. 87-92 had rear antilock brakes, 93-96 have 4 wheel ABS.

78-79 are the only years that came stock with solid front axles, which the rock crawlers like. The high speed desert guys seem to prefer the TTB independent front axle which is stock from 80-96.

All full size Broncos had the removable tops, but the newer ones (92+?) have rear seat shoulder belt mounting points & 3rd brake lights, so they aren't supposed to be removed.

The later years come with an E4OD 4 speed overdrive tranny. It's a heavy duty trans, but doesn't like heat & is expensive to rebuild. Make sure it's in good shape. It's a good idea to add an external filter & cooler if you get one (Like this: Trans Filter, Cooler & THERMOSTAT install by Fireguy50 or this VOTE For Sept.'07 FOTM by Sixlitre -Post 173 Trans filter.) They did do some upgrades to the newest E4ODs, & when the older ones are rebuilt, they should include those upgrades. If you are using it primarily offroad, you might prefer an older truck with a C-6 (Non overdrive) trans. There were other trannies used as well & adrianspeeder's Bronco Tranny and T-Case Info thread has a bunch of trans/engine/year combo info.

As for being lifted, you'd rather have extended radius arms than radius arm drop brackets. Blocks are definitely bad in the front, & aren't the best solution for the rear either. Take a look thru the lift section of Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links for several links on the subject.

Both manual & electric shift t-cases were available in late 80s-96. Most of us think the manual ones are more reliable, but in salt belt trucks sometimes the manual linkage is more trouble. There's a good electronic shift diagnostic routine that kf4amu links regularly, & shadowfax & others have writeups on rebuilds & swaps. Both electric & manual shift thru later years are BW 1356 t-cases, so internally the works are the same, even though shifters won't interchange. RickyB makes an electric to manual conversion called the "Shiftster".

If you're looking for common problems, watch out for rust over the rear wheel well openings & bottom of the tailgate. It usually starts on the inside, so if you see it, it's probably all the way thru. Rain gutter & bottom of the B pillar are also places to look. The rear window will act up on most of these eventually, but the problems usually aren't bad to fix. Don't let a stuck window scare you off, use it as a bargaining chip.

For my use, if I was buying one today, I'd probably be looking at an 89 351w or a 78-79. The 89 is very similar to my 90, (Which I like a lot & have grown familiar with) but the 89 has a C-6 behind the 351. I don't drive mine much on the freeway, so I don't think I'd miss the OD. The 89 also has electronic fuel injection, which is great for steep trails. 78-79s are just cool, simpler (If you learned on carbureted engines anyway :toothless), have larger wheel openings, & have solid axles.

 

[El Kabong]

3- How do I fix my back window?

The stuff below is mostly cut & paste from earlier replies, but it covers a lot of tailgate window stuff. Use what applies to your situation. To bypass everything & get it closed or open, see section A.1 below. For a list of possible causes based on your symptoms, see Table D below.

Be aware that:

-The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. It keeps the window from being moved when the tailgate is open, & if not latched right, it'll keep the window from working at all. Try pushing the driver's side of the tailgate in while holding the dash switch or tailgate key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's "How to align a Bronco Tailgate" link in #6 below & JKossarides info on door striker bushings in link #7 below.

-Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor.

-When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot at that switch.

-Ground for the motor is not connected to its case, but supplied through the wires.

-There are 2 separate power sources & 2 fuses/circuit breakers for positive. 1 for each switch.

-The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches).

-When the tailgate is open, for testing purposes, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to put the window down & open the latch before closing the tailgate.

Testing:

If it works in some directions but not others see table "D" below before performing tests. Sometimes the symptoms can lead you to the probable cause. It is best to test to confirm before replacing parts, but the symptoms can narrow down where to test.

Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? Will the window roll up with help? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links below. If you keep your hands clear, sometimes you can manually "help" the window close while someone runs the motor. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked below.

A.1- To test the electrical system (And to move an inoperable window), remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This method also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing, or close the window to temporarily get through bad weather).


If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests:

A.2- With both switches at rest & the driver's side tailgate latch switch closed*, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked below to trace it down, or tell us what you find.​

​

*To close the driver's side tailgate latch switch for testing with the tailgate open, use a screwdriver or similar tool to close the clamshell latch. Each half of the latch has a couple of clicks. On mine it seems like both halves of the latch need to be closed evenly for it to work. Remember to open it using the inside handle before closing the gate.​

​

A.3- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked below to trace it down, or tell us what you find.​

​

A.4- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check:​

-Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections.​

-It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate. A worn switch can also show those symptoms.​

B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links below for the torque pin replacement.


C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's Tailgate Tech link below & use the info for removing & replacing the motor.



Table D-If it works in some directions but not others:

Take a look through the combination of symptoms listed below for a list of possible causes. Test the components to confirm. This section is new & I'll continue to revise & clarify it as time allows. If you find something that is missing or needs to be tweaked, please let me know.

D.01​

Yes -Dash switch up​

Yes -Dash switch down​

Yes -Key switch up​

Yes -Key switch down​

• All is good. Why are you here? :toothless

​

___

D.02​

No --Dash switch up​

Yes -Dash switch down​

Yes -Key switch up​

Yes -Key switch down​

Possible causes:​

• Bad dash switch up side hot contact. Since it works for down at the dash switch & both directions from the key switch, you know that the wiring between switches, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works for one direction from the dash switch, you know you have power to the dash switch. Since it works in both directions from the key switch, you know you have good power & contacts at the key switch, good ground to the dash switch, & good ground contacts thru the dash switch. All that is left is the up side hot contact in the dash switch.

​

___

D.03​

Yes -Dash switch up​

No --Dash switch down​

Yes -Key switch up​

Yes -Key switch down​

Possible causes:​

• Bad dash switch down side hot contact. Since it works for up at the dash switch & both directions from the key switch, you know that the wiring between switches, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works for one direction from the dash switch, you know you have power to the dash switch. Since it works in both directions from the key switch, you know you have good power & contacts at the key switch, good ground to the dash switch, & good ground contacts thru the dash switch. All that is left is the down side hot contact in the dash switch.

___

D.04​

No --Dash switch up​

No --Dash switch down​

Yes -Key switch up​

Yes -Key switch down​

Possible causes:​

• No power from the fuse/circuit breaker. The dash rocker switch &tailgate key switch each has a separate power source & its own fuse/breaker. Check the fuse/breaker for the dash switch.
• Bad dash switch hot contacts. Since it works from the key switch, you know that the wiring between switches, key switch, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.
• Bad hot wire to the dash switch.

​

___

D.05​

Yes -Dash switch up​

Yes -Dash switch down​

No --Key switch up​

Yes -Key switch down​

Possible causes:​

• Bad key switch hot contact. Since it works for up & down at the dash switch, you know that all the wiring, dash switch, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works for one direction from the key switch, you know you have power to the key switch.

​

___

D.06​

Yes -Dash switch up​

Yes -Dash switch down​

Yes -Key switch up​

No --Key switch down​

Possible causes:​

• Bad key switch hot contact. Since it works for up & down at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works for one direction from the key switch, you know you have power to the key switch.

​

___

D.07​

Yes -Dash switch up​

Yes -Dash switch down​

No --Key switch up​

No --Key switch down​

Possible causes:​

• No power from the fuse/circuit breaker for the tailgate key switch. The tailgate key switch has a separate power source than the dash switch.
• Bad hot wire to the tailgate key switch.
• Bad key switch hot contacts. Since it works for up & down at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.

___

D.08​

Yes -Dash switch up​

No --Dash switch down​

Yes -Key switch up​

No --Key switch down​

Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works in one direction from the key switch you know that power to the key switch is good. A bad ground contact in the dash switch would cause both switches to quit working in one direction.​

Possible causes:​

• A bad ground contact in the dash switch.
• A bad hot contact in the dash switch & a bad hot contact in the tailgate switch at the same time. This seems less likely, but it is possible.

​

___

D.09​

No --Dash switch up​

Yes -Dash switch down​

No --Key switch up​

Yes -Key switch down​

Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works in one direction from the key switch, you know that power to the key switch is good. A bad ground contact in the dash switch would cause both switches to quit working in one direction.​

Possible causes:​

• A bad ground contact in the dash switch.
• A bad hot contact in the dash switch & a bad hot contact in the tailgate switch at the same time. This seems less likely, but it is possible.

​

___

D.10​

Yes -Dash switch up​

No --Dash switch down​

No --Key switch up​

Yes -Key switch down​

Possible causes:​

• This sounds like multiple problems. Probably a bad hot contact in the dash switch & an opposite bad hot contact in the tailgate switch. Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works in one direction from the key switch you know power to the key switch is good.

___

D.11​

No --Dash switch up​

Yes -Dash switch down​

Yes -Key switch up​

No --Key switch down​

Possible causes:​

• This sounds like multiple problems. Probably a bad hot contact in the dash switch & an opposite bad hot contact in the tailgate switch. Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works in one direction from the key switch you know power to the key switch is good.

___

D.12​

Yes -Dash switch up​

No --Dash switch down​

No --Key switch up​

No --Key switch down​

This sounds like multiple problems. Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.​

Possible causes:​

• A bad hot contact in the dash switch & no power from the breaker to the tailgate switch.
• A bad hot contact in the dash switch & bad hot wire to the tailgate switch.
• A bad hot contact in the dash switch & bad hot contacts in the tailgate switch.
• A bad ground down contact in the dash switch & a bad hot up contact in the key switch.
• A combination of the above problems.

___

D.13​

No --Dash switch up​

Yes -Dash switch down​

No --Key switch up​

No --Key switch down​

This sounds like multiple problems. Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.​

Possible causes:​

• A bad hot contact in the dash switch & no power from the breaker to the tailgate switch.
• A bad hot contact in the dash switch & a bad hot wire to the tailgate switch.
• A bad hot contact in the dash switch & bad hot contacts in the tailgate switch.
• A bad ground up contact in the dash switch & a bad hot down contact in the key switch.
• A combination of the above problems.

___

D.14​

No --Dash switch up​

No --Dash switch down​

Yes -Key switch up​

No --Key switch down​

This might be multiple problems. Since it works for one direction at the key switch, you know that at least one wire between switches, key switch power, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.​

Possible causes:​

• A bad up ground contact in the key switch.
• A bad wire between switches.
• A bad hot contact in the key switch & no power from the breaker to the dash switch.
• A bad hot contact in the key switch & a bad hot wire to the dash switch.
• A bad hot contact in the key switch & bad hot contacts in the dash switch.
• A bad ground down contact in the dash switch & a bad hot up contact in the key switch.
• A combination of the above problems.

___

D.15​

No --Dash switch up​

No --Dash switch down​

No --Key switch up​

Yes -Key switch down​

This might be multiple problems. Since it works for one direction at the key switch, you know that at least one wire between switches, key switch power, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.​

Possible causes:​

​

• A bad down ground contact in the key switch.
• A bad wire between switches.
• A bad hot contact in the key switch & no power from the breaker to the dash switch.
• A bad hot contact in the key switch & a bad hot wire to the dash switch.
• A bad hot contact in the key switch & bad hot contacts in the dash switch.
• A bad ground up contact in the dash switch & a bad hot down contact in the key switch
• A combination of the above problems.

___

D.16​

No --Dash switch up​

No --Dash switch down​

No --Key switch up​

No --Key switch down​

Nothing works. Might be easy. Might be the hardest to diagnose. If it isn't one of the easy steps, good testing with a meter will pay off on this one. This is what my Bronco started with, so the testing in "A" above is based on not having any operation at all to help pinpoint the problem.​

Possible causes:​

• Tailgate safety switch out of adjustment or missing the bushing. Try pushing in on the driver's side of the tailgate while operating either switch. If that works, look to tailgate alignment, bushing replacement, or latch switch issues.
• Bad fuse/circuit breaker to both switches.
• Bad tailgate safety switch.
• Bad connector to the motor.
• Broken wire(s) between switches. The loom between the body & tailgate is a likely place for wear to cause this.
• Bad ground to the dash switch. This provides ground for all functions.
• Bad ground/pass thru contacts on both sides of the key switch.
• Bad ground contacts on both sides of the dash switch.
• One bad ground contact in both the dash switch & the key switch on opposite sides of the circuit.
• Bad motor.
• Bad hot contacts on both sides of both switches.
• A combination of multiple problems.

Some good resource links:

1-Fireguy50's wiring diagram. Great color diagram for 80-96s, it makes it much easier to understand what's going on. NOTE: Fireguy's original diagram appears to be gone at this time, but Steve83 has a copy here on his Supermotors. Thanks Steve. :thumbup

2-Steve83's Tailgate Window Motor Circuit -Wiring diagram for 92-95s, laid out on a Bronco sketch to show locations of the various components.

3-Tailgate WIndow Wiring Diagram miesk5 provides a diagram for 78-79s by the ORC Staff at ford.off-road.com in post 3

4-Steve83's Tailgate Tech. Great pics & info. Look through the entire section for the portion that applies to your problem. The 1st pic explains testing for the dash switch. Almost to the bottom of the page is a method to bypass the dash switch & test the rest of the components. Click on any pic for a larger version.

5-adrianspeeder's pics (He's doing torque pins for a passenger window, for the tailgate you don't need to drill).

6-Torque pins, motors, etc. Sixlitre gives the torque pin part number in post 29.

7-Steve83's Bronco Tailgate Alignment
Looks like that ^ link may be goofy. Here's the Wayback Machine version: Bronco Tailgate Alignment

8-JKossarides' info on replacement striker bushing numbers & wiring harness issues -See post 3.

9-Fireguy50's Re-wire your Tailgate window switch (FINISHED) Upgrade diagram using relays.

10- rear window switch replacement / upgrade! 87-91 Dash switch replacement info from @Dan90FSB in post 1 & @sackman9975 in post 7.



On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors :doh0715:. Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections. At that point it tested fine to the factory connector to the motor, but it still wouldn't run when plugged in. That final connector looked ok, but was barely corroded enough to prevent good contact. I eliminated that plug to the motor & finally got it working.

That's when I finally earned my Tailgate Window Repair badge. My mom sewed it on my sash. It was a proud moment. :toothless

 

[El Kabong]

4- How do I post pics?

Go to the How to POST PICS sticky. Pepe` gives 2 sets of instructions, one for fullsize membership ($20 a year), another for regular members (Free). Follow the instructions for your type of membership.

If you are a regular member, follow the Supermotors method. It's the second set of instructions. The first set of instructions won't work for you. You have to load the pics on a hosting site like Supermotors or others, then hotlink them here (This used to say photobucket, but apparently they are now charging $400 a year for the service that once was free :shocked).

Supermotors is the method that I still use. And I use the Supermotors site. You can set up different folders for each vehicle. They can be categorized & reorganized as needed. It allows the photos to be easily resized, & you have the choice of 3 sizes to hotlink. Once loaded to the hosting site, your friends & family across the country can see them there. You can hotlink the same photos to multiple websites as well.

You will copy the location of the pic from the hosting site. It is in the "URL" box to the left of the pic. Or you can right click on the pic itself & click on "Copy Image Location" or "Copy Image Url" (Right clicking on the pic itself will also get you to the URL of pics from many sources). Then back here in FSB, from the "Reply to Thread" window, click the Insert Image icon

& paste your pic's location in the popup window. That will add the necessary code for you without any further work. This method also works with those pics found online from other sources.

Another option is to copy the "IMG" code to the left of the pic in Supermotors & paste it directly into the "Reply to Thread" window.

As Pepe` explained, this is how the code for the pic below looks in the "Reply to Thread" window, except the {} are actually []:

{IMG}http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/498470/fullsize/100_85812.jpg%20alt={/IMG}

With the correct brackets, that ^ code looks like this in the thread:

 

[El Kabong]

5- How do I add a little picture under my name at the left of the screen?
6- How do I change the stuff under my name at the left of the screen?
7- How do I add a signature under my posts?
8- Why doesn't my signature always show up?

Go to the User CP. It's near the top of every page, towards the left. Once opened you'll see many choices down the left side.

5- In the "Settings & Options" section, click on "Edit Avatar". Enter the URL or upload one from your computer. Pay attention to the sizing requirements.

6- In the "Your Profile" section, click on "Edit Your Details". There you can enter your Bronco Info & approximate location so it will show up under your name with every post. That stuff helps the rest of us understand what you're working on. Sometimes the approximate location helps understand the causes of problems with your truck. The answers to some issues will vary for the salt belt, hot or cold climates, etc.. It's also good to know who's nearby. Don't post up your entire address (Someone actually did that :doh0715. If you are a Fullsize Member you can also add a Custom User Title directly under your name, where mine says "Driving Stuff Henry Built".

7- In the "Your Profile" section, click on "Edit Signature". Enter your text or pics like you would in a normal post. Pay attention to the image size regulations & leave out political items. Mods will delete sigs if they get out of hand.

8- Signatures only show up under your first post on each page. They also don't show up on any posts that were written before you added a sig. When you change your current sig, it displays the new sig under any old posts that had one originally.

 

[El Kabong]

9- How do I Bleed My Brakes?


It's important with brakes to be sure that everything is done right. Safety is vital. Follow the instructions in the manual. If you are not sure about it, work with someone who has good experience with it, or tow it to a qualified shop. Don't drive it until you are sure that it's fixed right.

2 Man Brake Bleed

1-Usual safety stuff (Block the wheels, trans in correct gear, on safe axle stands if jacked up, etc.). -Broncos are high enough you should be able to do this without jacking it up.
2-Check the level of the brake fluid, add if needed. Recheck periodically & add as needed throughout the bleeding process. Do not allow it to run out. If it runs out, you must start over.
3-Have your helper pump the brake pedal a few times & then hold it down. Do not let the pedal up while the bleeder is open.
4-Open the bleeder valve, observe the fluid flowing from the bleeder. Fluid & air bubbles can spray, it's best to run a clear hose from the bleeder into a container. Some would say wear safety goggles. Keep your mouth closed :toothless.
5-Close the bleeder valve while the pedal is still depressed.
6-Have the helper pump the brake pedal, observe height of pedal.
7-Repeat steps 2-6 until no bubbles are seen in the fluid from the bleeder valve, then move to the next wheel, following this order: RR, LR, RF, LF (On newer trucks with the RABS valve, it's RR, LR, RABS valve, RF, LF. On trucks that are newer still with 4 wheel ABS, I don't know). Be sure that each bleeder is closed before moving on. If the brakes are otherwise in good condition, adjusted, & not leaking, the pedal should be firm when done.
8-Check the level of the brake fluid, add if needed. Recheck again soon to be sure fluid isn't leaking.

78 to 81ish info from this thread: Where to buy a Brake Pressure Differential Valve?

OK, it's all back together. The switch still seems to not work, but I freed up the valve (apparantly - I had to make a little thing to hold the pin in the front OUT while bleeding the front brakes, otherwise the valve seemed to shut them off >90% of the way and I could not effectively bleed them). I took it out, sealed the ports VERY well, beadblasted it, and then cleaned the threads and seats with paper towels and brake cleaner.

So even though the Haynes book says that you only have to do that if you are using a 'pressure bleeder', that's not true, at least on my '81!

 

[BigUgly88EB]

admin edit: this pointless post needs to stay... as a place holder to maintain all the previous inner/page links.
please do not remove.

 

[El Kabong]

10- My Rear ABS light comes on (87-92). Why?
11- My Rear brakes drag (87-92). Why?

Always be careful when it comes to brakes. If you're not sure it's right, don't drive it. If it's over your skill level, take it to a qualified shop for the repairs.

Here's a good resource thread with more info from Miesk5 & jermil01: Brake and Rear ABS lights on

87-92 Broncos have Rear Wheel Antilock Brakes (RABS). Sometimes it can cause the rear brakes to drag, & is one of the things to check if they do. There's a self test procedure for the system described below, followed by testing procedures & flashout codes. If both the Red & Yellow lights are lit, start with section "C" below before following the info obtained from the codes.

Pulling RABS Flashout Code. This routine should be good from 87-92.

The 90 service manual gives a routine to pull RABS codes. When the light comes on, don't turn the truck off before reading the codes. Put it in park, chock both front & rear of the wheels, note whether the red brake light is lit also, then momentarily ground the test connector.

On my 90, the test connector comes out of a large loom under the dash, coming through the firewall, near the parking brake. On mine there are 2 similar connectors in that area, the correct one has only 1 black wire with an orange tracer running to it, & was hidden on top of the loom. The correct one is hanging down on the bottom right of the 90 pic below. 92 has the test plug on the passenger side. See jermil01's 92 pics below.

After you've grounded & ungrounded the wire, the yellow abs light starts to flash. Count the flashes. It said to not count the 1st series, because it may start in the middle. The last flash of the series is a long flash. Then it repeats over & over, until you turn the key off.

Count all of the short flashes & the long one together (So 4 short & 1 long is code #5). If I remember right, it should be a number between 2 & 15 or so. In Steve83's Brakes & Hubs album, he has the code definitions & other info for RABS & RABS-II about 7/8 of the way down the page. Make sure you look at the RABS codes, not the 4WABS codes. Or go to Steve83's RABS code definitions direct link.

There are also more testing instructions in the manual that I can look up after you know what the code is, & whether the red brake light is on or off.

90 Test Connector

92 Test Connector
Pic from @jermil01

90 Module
Under the dash near the center, on the driver's side. Sort of above the gas pedal & to the right. Gold box with white arrow in this pic. Ignore the Red White & Blue wires, they are for an aftermarket brake controller.

92 Module
From @jermil01 "And the RABS module behind the glove box".

C Testing Procedure from the 1990 Ford Truck Shop Manual. Use this section when both Yellow & Red lights are on.
Test C
Yellow ANTILOCK light On and
Red BRAKE Light On


C1 -Low brake fluid

Brake fluid level ok = Go to test C2
Brake fluid level low = Check for fluid leaks & repair. Fill system

C2 -Master cylinder float -Check float for buoyancy
1- Remove cap from master cylinder.
2-Using a clean steel implement, push down on float in reservoir.

Float moves down = Go to test C3
Float does not move down (Sits at the bottom of the reservoir) = Replace master cylinder reservoir.

C3 -Diode/resistor element -Check for proper functioning of the diode/resistor element.
1- Turn ignition key to the on position.
2- Check parking brake & release if applied.

Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps go off = Replace RABS diode/resistor element.
Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps stay on = Go to test C4.

C4 -Diode resistor element continued -Continue to check for proper functioning of the diode/resistor element.
1- Remove the parking brake switch & the diesel low vacuum switch, if so equipped.
Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps go off = Replace RABS diode/resistor element.
Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps stay on = Go to test C5

C5 -Antilock valve switch (Pull Codes)
-Obtain the flashout code as described in Diagnosis & Testing in this section.
(See the section above for pulling RABS codes)

Flashout code is obtained = Refer to Flashout Codes Charts
ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps stay on steady = Go to test C6

C6 -Master cylinder switch
-Check for the proper functioning of the master cylinder level indicator switch.

1- Remove the connector from the master cylinder.
2- Connect a jumper wire between the 2 purple/white wires in the connector.
3- Turn the ignition key to the on position.

ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps stay on = Go to test C7
ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps go off = Replace the master cylinder reservoir.

C7 -Brake Light Wiring
-Check for shorts in brake light wiring.
1- Disconnect module harness connector from module
2- Turn ignition key to the on position.

Antilock light goes off & Brake light stays on = Check for short to ground in the 977 circuit. Refer to wiring diagram in this section.
Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps go off = Replace module.




D Testing Procedure from the 1990 Ford Truck Shop Manual. Use this section when Yellow ANTILOCK light is on & Red BRAKE light is off.

Test D
Yellow ANTILOCK light On and
Red BRAKE Light Off


D1 -Obtain the Flashout Code as described in Diagnosis & Testing in this section.
(See the section above for pulling RABS codes)
Flashout code cannot be obtained = Go to test D2.
Flashout Code is obtained = Refer to the Flashout Code charts.

D2 -Master Cylinder Connector
Make sure master cylinder connector is fully plugged in.
Master cylinder connector is not fully plugged in = Plug in the master cylinder connector.
Master cylinder connector is plugged in = Go to test D3.

D3 -RABS 20 Amp Fuse
-Remove & inspect the RABS 20 amp fuse.

Fuse is OK = Replace fuse. Go to test D4.
Fuse is blown = Short to ground between the fuse & the module wiring harness. Repair short in the 601 circuit & replace the 20 amp fuse. Refer to the wiring diagrams in this section.

D4 -Shorts in Module Harness Connector Wiring
-Check for wiring short to ground.
1- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
2- Remove the module harness connector from the module.
3- Observe the REAR ANTILOCK light.

Light goes off = Go to test D5.
Light remains on = Check for a short in the 603 circuit. Refer to the wiring diagram in this section.

D5 -Power to the module
-Check for an open in the circuit supplying power to the module.
1- Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
2- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
3- Measure the voltage between pin 1 (or pin 9) and chassis ground.

Voltage less than 9v = Repair the open in the 601 circuit or power to the fuse panel. See Wiring Diagram.
Voltage greater than 9v = Go to test D6.

D6 -Voltage at the Fluid Level Circuit
-Check the voltage from the fluid level circuit.
1- Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
2- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
3- Measure the voltage between pin 2 and chassis ground.

Voltage less than 8v = Go to test D7.
Voltage greater than 8v = Go to test D8.

D7 -Fluid Level Sensor and Wiring
-Check the voltage at the fluid level circuit.
1- Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
2- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
3- Measure the voltage at each of the purple/white wires at the back of the master cylinder fluid level switch connector without disconnecting the connector.

Voltage greater than 8v at both wires = Check for open in 977 circuit.
Voltage less than 8v at both wires = Replace diode resistor element or open in 640 circuit.
Voltage greater than 8v at one wire and less than 8v at the other wire = Change the master cylinder reservoir. Refer to section 12-30, Brake Pedal, Master Cylinder and Valves for procedure.

D8 -Grounded Diagnostic Lead
-Check the voltage at the diagnostic lead (See the 90 or 92 "Test Connector" pic above).
1- Reconnect the module harness connector.
2- Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
3- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
4- Measure the voltage between the diagnostic lead and chassis ground.

Voltage is less than 1v = Check for a short in the 571 diagnostic circuit. If no short is found, go to test D9.
Voltage is greater than 1v = Go to test D9.

D9 -Computer Module
-Replace computer module and retest.





Flashout Code 4
Yellow REAR ANTILOCK Light Flashes 4 Times
Red Brake Warning Light Illuminated
RABS Valve Switch Closed

4a -Check for closed RABS valve switch
1-Disconnect RABS valve harness connector from valve connector.
2- Place ohmmeter on the 20k ohms scale.
3-Check resistance between valve connector switch pin & valve body.

Valve connector -Pin View

. . . . . . . . . . .. .. .... . . ._
. . . . . . . ... . . . .... .. ./>. O.>.\
Valve switch pin ---l-O >..O>l
. . . . . . . .... . . . . .. . l . ..O... .l
. . . . . . . .l. .. .. .l_______l
. . . . . . . .. . . .____
. . . . . . . . . . . . ._

Resistance is greater than 10k ohms = Go to test 4b.
Resistance is less than 10k ohms = Replace RABS valve


4b Check for short between RABS ground switch & valve ground lead
1- Set the ohmmeter on 20k ohm scale.
2- Check resistance between the valve connector switch pin and valve solenoid ground pin.

Valve connector -Pin View

. . . . . . . . . . .. . .. ... . .__
. . . . . . . . . . . . ...... . ./>. O.>.\
Valve switch pin ----l-O .>.O>l
Valve sol ground----I-----O----I
. . . . . . ... . . . . . . .. .l_______l

Resistance is greater than 10k ohms = Go to test 4c.
Resistance is less than 10k ohms = Replace RABS valve


4c Check for rabs valve switch wire shorted to ground or module
1- Disconnect battery.
2- Set the ohmmeter on the 200k ohm scale.
3- Disconnect the module harness from the module.
4- Check the resistance between harness connector pin 6 and chassis ground.

Module harness connector -Pin view

.____
l.......................................... ....l
l...14 13 12 . . . . . . 11 10 9?..l
l....O . O .O . . .. . . . .O . O O...l
l .............................................l
l....O . O .O . O .O . O .O . O. ..l
l....8 . 7 . 6 . 5 . 4 . 3 . 2 . .1....l
\ .........................................../
..\___/


Resistance is greater than 100k ohms = Replace computer module.
Resistance is less than 100k ohms = Repair short in 535 circuit, valve switch wire from valve to computer module.

 

[El Kabong]

12- Will 33 inch tires rub on my Bronco?

Wheel backspacing, the adjustment of the steering stops, & the model year all affect it. There are 4 different FSB body styles over the years:

92-96s rub more with 33s. Many trucks have to shim or cut the front bumper to clear. Depending on the wheel backspacing & the setting of the steering stops they may or may not rub the sway bar or radius arms.

87-91s rub less with 33s. Typically no front bumper issues. Depending on the wheel backspacing & the setting of the steering stops they may or may not rub the sway bar or radius arms. Mine rub the stock arms, but the stops are adjusted in. Mine also has the chrome trim over the wheelwells. One side will barely catch the chrome at full stuff. If the chrome wasn't there, I don't think it would touch.

80-86s :shrug

78-79s seem to have larger wheel openings & less rubbing issues. Other than that :shrug

 

[El Kabong]

13- What do the axle gear ratio numbers mean? (3.55:1, 4.10:1, etc.)
14- Which gears are higher or lower?
15- What gear ratio do I have?
16- If I change the rear gears do I have to change the front too?
17- How do I choose the right gears?

13- What do the axle gear ratio numbers mean? (3.55:1, 4.10:1, etc.) It describes how much gear reduction there is in the axle. Gear ratios are normally separated by a colon like this 3.55:1. The 3.55 refers to the number of revolutions that the driveshaft turns, while the 1 refers to revolutions of the axle (Or tires). The driveshaft turns 3.55 times for 1 revolution of the tires. 4.56:1 gears would have the driveshaft turn 4.56 times for 1 revolution of the tires. So with 4.56:1 gears, the driveshaft turns more times for each rotation of the tires than with 3.55:1 gears. That gives the engine more leverage to turn the tires easier.

If you opened up the differential & counted the number of teeth on the gears you would find the ratio by comparing the number of teeth on the pinion gear (Attached to the driveshaft) to the ring gear (Attached to the axle). You divide the number of pinion teeth into the number of ring teeth. So if you divided 32 ring teeth by 9 pinion teeth you would have a 3.55:1 ratio. 41 ring teeth divided by 10 pinion teeth would be a 4.10:1 ratio, & so on.


14- Which gears are higher or lower? The terms higher gears & lower gears have become confusing. You think of 1st gear in your transmission as being a lower gear than 3rd. Using the same principle, 4.56:1 gears are lower than 3.55:1. But numerically they're higher. 4.56 is a higher number than 3.55, even though 4.56 gears are lower. So we have to clarify how the gears are being described. Frequently you'll see the term "Lower gears (Higher numerically)" used to clarify the meaning.


15- What gear ratio do I have? The easiest way to find gear ratios is to decode the door sticker. There are 2 charts quoted below to look up the codes. But it's only a good solution if the door sticker is still readable & no one has swapped the gears previously. One accurate approach is to open the diff & count the teeth as described above.

An easier way than opening the diff is to mark the driveshaft & a tire. Use the usual safety procedures (Flat solid ground, blocked wheels, solid axle stands, etc.) & raise the rear of the truck off the ground. Turn the tires 1 revolution by hand & count the driveshaft revolutions. About 3-1/2 turns of the driveshaft would be 3.50 or 3.55:1. A little over 4 driveshaft turns would be 4.10:1 & so on.

Another easier option with an open diff is to raise only 1 rear tire. Turn that tire 2 revolutions by hand & count the driveshaft revolutions. With the spider gears in the differential, 2 revolutions of 1 tire is the same as 1 revolution of 2 tires. So with 2 revolutions of 1 tire & about 3-1/2 turns of the driveshaft would be 3.50 or 3.55:1. A little over 4 driveshaft turns would be 4.10:1.


Note: 2 digit limited slip codes refer to the rear axle only, 3 digit limited slip axle codes refer to both front & rear axles.
So H9 is LS rear only, & H92 is LS front & rear.

From 85 & 90 manuals.

From this thread in the 78-79 forum.

D7-DANA70 LIMITED SLIP -4.10
23-DANA61 -3.31
24-DANA60-4.10
H2-LIMITED SLIP-3.50
H4-LIMITED SLIP-3.25
H7-NOT LISTED ON MY CHART
H9-LIMITED SLIP-4.11

From the Bronco Graveyard catalog in the back of the book.

16- If I change the rear gears do I have to change the front too? Yes, they need to match. If front & rear gears are different, front & rear tires try to travel a different distance for each revolution of the driveshaft. Something has to give. If tires don't slip, some point in the drivetrain will break.

There is a tiny percentage of difference that's acceptable. Stock gears on many later Broncos are 3.55:1 rear & 3.54:1 front, due to the different manufacturers of components. Combining 3.55:1 & 3.73:1 would be too much of a difference.


17- How do I choose the right gears? It'll vary according to your usage. If you drive a lot of highway you might want higher gears (Lower numerically :toothless) than if your truck is primarily a wheeler.

A good place to start is by using what the truck had stock, or what you have now, as a baseline. It was designed to run well in many different situations with stock gears & tires. So if you increase tire size & regear so that you have the same RPM at the same speed as stock, you have a good starting point. Once you have that point, you can adjust to favor your type of driving. Lower gears (Higher numerically) for more power to the tires for hill climbing or towing. Higher gears (Lower numerically) for lower RPMs on the highway. Many of us would rather run lower gears with more power to the wheels, but it should to be tailored to your specific needs.

The Gear Ratio Calculator at grimmjeeper.com is a cool tool to help figure some of this out. You enter your combo of trans, t-case, gears, & tires. It shows you:

• Final drive ratio in all gears & t-case combos.
• RPMs at given highway MPH in various gears with the t-case in high range.
• Highway MPH at given RPMs in various gears with the t-case in high range.
• Crawl speed in FPM & MPH at various RPMs in various gears with the t-case in low range.
• All of the above in 2 side by side columns so you can compare how different combos measure up against each other.

With my 90 as an example, I entered my e4od trans, the BW1356 transfer case, & 3.55 stock gears on both sides. On one side I showed the stock 29" tires & on the other the 33" tires that I have now. I hit calculate & it tells me that at 65mph originally it ran at 1898rpm & now it runs at 1668rpm. I can sure feel that difference on uphills. I downshift more now than when it had 29s on it, & I use 4low long before others when wheeling. I need lower gears (Higher numerically).

If I change to 4.10:1 gears, it shows that I would run at 1927rpm at 65mph. So that would be a little lower than stock gearing with 33s on the truck. That would be nice for my current usage, but since I'm considering 35s or 37s in the future, I compared some combos with both 35s & 37s. Here are some outcomes:
3.55:1 & 29s = 1898rpm at 65mph, stock.
3.55:1 & 33s = 1688rpm at 65mph, higher gearing than stock. Current combo at the time of writing.
4.10:1 & 33s = 1927rpm at 65mph, slightly lower gearing but close to stock.
4.10:1 & 35s = 1816rpm at 65mph, higher gearing than stock.
4.56:1 & 35s = 2020rpm at 65mph, lower gearing than stock.
4.56:1 & 37s = 1911rpm at 65mph, slightly lower gearing but close to stock.

So for my use, 4.56 is probably where I'll go, since it looks like it would work with either 35s or 37s. If I wanted more power to the wheels for hill climbing, I might go even lower (Higher numerically).

Another thing to consider is that if you increase the tire size, you give the tires more leverage. By lowering the gears, you give the engine & driveshaft more leverage to turn those big tires. By giving both the tires & engine/driveshaft more leverage, the parts in between are more likely to break. After a certain point those components in between will need to be improved to survive.

 

[El Kabong]

18- Where can I find info about my Holley carburetor?
19- Why does my engine stumble when I step on the gas?

18- Here's a site with a lot of Holley info: The Carburetor Doctor. I think it's the number on the air horn that you need to look up. If you click on the kit links at the right of the page it'll take to a listing of several carbs that use that kit. Or you might try calling The Carburetor Doctor at 780-968-6622 with those numbers on the air horn to see if they can give you specifics.

OLDCARMANUAL.com has a lot of Holley diagrams as well.

19- That symptom sounds like it could be a bad accelerator pump. It squirts a little extra fuel as you step on the gas to keep it from stumbling until the carb responds to the changes in vacuum. With the key off, look down the carb & steadily open the throttle. You should see a steady stream of fuel while the throttle is moving. If it sputters there's something wrong with the accelerator pump or it's passageways. On a Holley it's pretty easy to change. It's the gasket & so on above part #107 in this pic:

(Click this link for the actual page & click the pics on that page for supersized pics)
http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/TypicalViews/pages/4150G_4150MG.html

 

[El Kabong]

20- Why won't my tailgate open even if the window is rolled all the way down?

There's sort of a hook in the mechanism that is pushed down by the window when it gets to the bottom. It releases the center mechanism to allow it to pull the side rods to release the latches. I wonder if it might be bent or partially hung up keeping the one side from moving freely.

Here's pics of that hook:
It's the long rod with the hook at the bottom of this Steve83 link. It may be bent or undone.
[url=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/517004_1]
(Click the images for larger pics)

It's marked "Interlock Rod", heading left (Actually down) in this Steve83 link.
[/URL]


Another possibility is that something is bent or worn & not allowing one or both sides to move all the way. My tailgate hadn't been opened in years when I bought it. It took lots of soaking with spray lube. Both inside the tailgate & thru the outside gap to the outside of the latch. Then, from inside the tailgate, I grabbed the stuck side rod with vise grips & worked it until it freed up. When all was said & done the right side rod was too long, & I bent a "Z" in it to shorten it a little. It's been good now for 3-1/2 years.

 

[El Kabong]

21- I'm going to visit the Los Angeles area. What is there to do?

-Check out FSB's West Coast Chapter. We might have something going on while you're in town. Post up & let us know you're coming.

-Eat at In-N-Out while you're here. It's just a drive thru burger joint, but it's part of being in SoCal. If the menu seems too short, ask for a 4x4 if you're hungry, the Flying Dutchman for an odd surprise, or Fries Animal Style just because. Whatever you do, don't leave the empty box in your car.

-Catalina Island -Sort of touristy, but,then again, you are a tourist. :toothless The boat (1 hour) or the helicopter (15 minutes) leave from Long Beach. Everything is pretty much within walking distance, with the exception of the helicopter pad (I've walked it, but it's a good walk). If you take the helicopter, there are taxis available to get into town. At the North end just barely outside of town there's Descanso Beach which is cool for kicking back (There's an open air bar on the beach) or kayaking. Back to middle & South side of town there's parasailing, glass bottom boats, flying fish boats after dark, snorkeling, restaurants overlooking the ocean, golf cart rentals (The primary form of transportation in Avalon), & Big Olaf's ice cream :thumbup. Check to be sure whatever your interested in is running currently (More stuff is usually open in the warmer months). Live camera feed. (We used to provide support for a swing dance camp there every year, & got to goof off after it was over. It was a lot of fun.)

-Queen Mary -In Long Beach, you can tour the ship, & they have a Russian sub there too. If you're not really into these sort of things, it's a little dull.

-Petersen Automotive Museum -I've haven't been yet, but friends say it's good.

-Speedzone -Timed driving of small race cars on a dragstrip or road course. Mini Indy cars & mini 70mph dragsters.

-Irwindale Speedway -1/2 Mile Oval on Saturday nights ($15 General, $25 reserved) & the 1/8 Mile Dragstrip on Thursday nights ($10 to watch, $20 to run. I suppose the rental car company wouldn't approve).

-Medievil Times -Dinner & show with knights jousting.

-Planes of Fame Air Museum in Chino -Sort of far, but I enjoyed it. Eat at Flo's if you go.

-Sea World -Down in San Diego. Big fish type critters.

-Skiing or snowboarding in Wrightwood or Big Bear during the Winter.

-Huntington Beach -Beach, pier & small town. Usually something going on. Looks like they're doing Surf City Nights on Tuesdays. Wahoo's fish tacos.

-Santa Monica. Pier & beach. Usually some surfers in the water. Live pier camera

-Warner Brothers Studios tour. $54 for a 2 hour tour in 2015. The tour varies day to day depending on what's being filmed.

-Universal Citywalk is interesting (If you want to see lots of people) & free if you don't buy anything, except for the $10 to park. [Grandpa McCoy voice] That's where them youngfolk go & just hang around. [/voice] I like the baseball cut steak at the Saddle Ranch there.

-Pasadena's Rose Parade. December 31/Jan 1 (Unless the 1st is on Sunday, then it's Jan 2). Camp overnight on the curb & watch a parade with a million of your closest friends. Or buy grandstand seating & be above the crowd.

-NHRA Drag Racing at Pomona -February & November. There's nothing like the sound of a wide open top fuel dragster. We could hear them from our house when we lived about 8 miles away.

-Nascar racing at the Auto Club Speedway in Fontana. February & October.

-Fabulous Fords Forever. In April. All Ford car show at Knott's Berry Farm. Some of our local FSBs are usually in the show. Well worth going if you're here at the right time.

-LA County Fair -In Pomona. If you like fairs, this is the bigun. September 4 - October 3, 2010. NHRA drag racing museum, old trains, live concerts, a bunch of exhibit buildings, animals, rides, Mexican village, garden stuff, fine arts, barkpark (With dog stunt shows), blacksmiths, & on & on.

The usual theme parks
-Knotts Berry Farm -Personal preference. Has the ghost town & old west stuff as well as rides. Ghost rider :thumbup.
-Disneyland/California Adventure -It's Disneyland, what more can you say?
-Six Flags Magic Mountain -I haven't been on X2 yet, but X1 was something else:shocked. X2 is supposed to be more so. Lots of other good rides too.
-Universal Studios. -Movie making stuff & rides. Haven't been in years. That's where Citywalk is located.

And there's ThingsToDo.com for LA, Orange County, San Diego , or the Inland Empire all close enough to drive to, depending on your time.

 

[El Kabong]

22- My Bronco doesn't have an exterior tire carrier. Can I add one?

Yes, but...
Broncos that came with a stock external tire carrier have additional supports behind the sheet metal that trucks with internal carriers don't have. If you don't add interior support, the carrier will rip the sheet metal. Some have had trouble with large spares damaging the tailgate even with the stock supports. The strongest solution seems to be a rear bumper with a tire carrier built on it. Several of us have added the stock type spare carrier, with various results. If you add a stock external carrier, you'll need to add support inside both the tailgate & the fender.

I added an external carrier to my 90. It has been ok so far. I carry a 33" BFG m/t on an aluminum rim, so it is not as heavy as some spares. I wheel it, but I'm not crazy with it. No jumping. I can see some flex in the quarter panel when the spare is all the way open. I am always careful when it's opened. It seems solid & tight when it's closed. It is somewhat misaligned in that the rubber block at the bottom hits before the latch. I think it keeps it tighter & may prevent damage. I also kept the interior spare carrier. It's pretty much out of the way with no spare it, gives me something to lash to, & makes it easy to carry 2 spares on the trail (Some guy named Tom told me early on I should always have 2 spares :toothless).

For the tailgate, you probably want to use the stock support for inside the tailgate. It's just way too easy to install the stock brace to even consider making one. It has to tie into the structure inside of the tailgate to distribute the load. It can be unbolted from one truck & bolted into the next. If you add a carrier to a Bronco that never had one, use that support.

Here's a pic of the tailgate support (Pic borrowed from Dustball, the last I heard he's still selling this part). The top is at the left. You can see the 3 holes for the latch. The other holes mount to the structure inside of the tailgate.

There is also a support inside the fender, but it can't be removed from a good truck without a lot of work/damage. It's better to get that part from a truck that's being parted out, or to make a new one. If you use the stock fender support, you may have to cut it to fit it into place.

My internal fender supports are made from 3/16 plate, bent to fit. They are each bent twice with 2 flats that contact the fender at the bolt holes, & a center portion that doesn't contact around the curve. The edges are ground round, to try to keep from them punching through. They don't connect to each other or to the existing internal bracing like the stock brace does, but it would be stronger if they did. I may still modify them to do so.

It's easier to make the supports to fit the shape & hole pattern of the carrier hinge brackets. The hinges are the same shape as the fender, & it's much simpler to work with the hinges on the bench than trying to bend the steel to match the truck.

Here is a sideways view of the stock support inside the rear fender from Mickaila's Bronco build.

Here is an overall view, again, ITS UP SIDE DOWN, as you can see the top portion of the panel (where the soft top sits) on the ground presently:

Plus a couple from @NYFSB 's thread Photoshop .

Took another picture of the spare swing frame inner fender support, hopefully it will help someone else..

And a shot through the taillight opening of one of my homebuilt braces (It's getting rusty in there, it should have been painted. Even inside of the quarter panel in California :doh0715. You can see how it isn't formed to the fender at the curve, but takes a straight line across.

Be aware that the design of the latch changed (I think the break is between 89 & 90, but I'm not sure). The older ones have a long release lever & sort of a hook strike, while the newer ones have a short release handle & a latch mechanism similar to the doors. Make sure that the strike you buy matches your carrier. :brownbag

My experience is with a 90. I have heard that the hinge brackets are a different shape to match the rear fenders of 78-79s, 80-86s, & 87-96s, so be sure to use the matching hinge brackets for your fenders. I have also heard that the carriers themselves will swap between 78-79s, 80-86s & 87-96s if you use the correct hinge brackets, but don't know that personally.

They also went from 2 holes mounting the latch to 3 at some point. The 2 & 3 hole parts may work with each other, but you might have to drill a 3rd hole & add a nut behind. My internal tailgate brace had only 2 holes. They matched 2 of the strike holes, & I drilled the 3rd.

Here's an earlier strike (89 & before?):

Here's a later style strike (90 & later?)

The later style strike works with a clamshell type latch.

 

[El Kabong]

23 -My Bronco won't turn over (Won't crank, start, make the Rrrr Rrrr Rrrr sound), but makes a screeching, grinding, clicking, or buzzing noise, or no sound at all, when I try to start it. Why? (This section deals with the engine not turning over at all. When the starter won't turn the engine, not when the engine will turn but not start)

WARNING. Be careful throughout this process.** Sometimes problems can be intermittent, & things will start moving unexpectedly. Some of this testing should cause the engine to turn over & possibly start. Be sure the vehicle can't get away or run over you. Keep it in the correct gear (Park for auto trannies, neutral for manuals), set the brake, block the wheels, keep your hands & wires out of the fan. Disconnect the coil wire to keep the engine from starting at any point (Remember to reconnect once this has been repaired). If you aren't sure, get help or take it to a qualified mechanic.

Is it a grinding/screeching sound, a buzzing/clicking sound, a single click, or no sound at all?

A grinding sound (Almost screeching) is usually from where the starter engages the flywheel. See drawing "C" below. It can be caused by a loose starter, a starter that's going bad or a bad flywheel. More often than not it's just loose. Check the mounting bolts.

A buzzing sound, almost like a rapid clicking is usually made by the solenoid on the fender. It's the heavy duty switch that actually turns on the starter. See the pics "D" & "E" below. The key switch turns on the solenoid which turns on the starter. When it is making that noise, there's enough voltage to turn on the solenoid until power reaches the starter, then voltage drops which causes the solenoid to disengage, disconnecting the starter, which raises the voltage enough to turn on the solenoid again & so on & so on. It's the song that never ends. It happens so fast that it sounds like buzzing. Anything in section "A" below could be the cause. Start at Section "B" to narrow down where it might be.

A single click? The solenoid turns on & stays on, but the starter doesn't/can't turn the engine. See Section "A" below. The testing in Section "B" could help pinpoint the issue.

No sound at all? Most of the Section "A" below could be the cause. Start at Section "B" to narrow down where it might be.

A- It can click, buzz, or make no sound at all from several causes:

• A weak battery. Not enough juice to crank it once the solenoid closes. Click/Buzz. Measure the voltage at the battery. It should be around 12v. If not charge it & try again. Another possibility is a battery that shows a charge, but won't keep the voltage up under load. A lot of auto parts stores will test them for free with a tester that checks under load.
• Bad cables. Look for swollen places in the insulation, white or green dust/corrosion, worn or burnt places, stiff sections, etc. See pic "E" below. Check all 3 cables (Battery to solenoid, battery to block & frame, solenoid to starter) If you replace them, try to get a larger diameter cable. Stock is typically 4 gauge, changing to a 2 or 0 gauge will pay off in the long run. The stock ground cable connects to both frame & block & it is hard to find a replacement. A good solution is to run a cable from battery to block & then another cable from the same bolt on the block to frame.
• Loose cables. Negative from the battery where it attaches to the engine is a common location, but check them all.
• Dirty cable connections. Don't just clean the outside, clean where the cable contacts the post & where the other end connects too. Especially the ground at the block.
• Cheap clamp on ends. See pic "F" below. Only good for a trail fix to get you to the store to buy a real cable.
• A bad solenoid (Yeah, I said solenoid. Call it a starter relay if you want. I'm old. We've always called it a solenoid, so there. :toothless Solenoid, solenoid solenoid). If you jump across the 2 large solenoid terminals (See the warning above) with a screwdriver or large jumper, it bypasses the solenoid. If it cranks when bypassed, & the solenoid only clicks from the ignition switch, it sounds like a bad solenoid.
• A bad park/neutral safety switch or clutch switch. Testing at the solenoid bypasses these. If it cranks when bypassed at the "S" terminal on the solenoid, look for issues in the circuit that includes the p/n switch (or clutch switch on a manual) & ignition switch.
• bad ignition switch. Testing at the solenoid also bypasses the ignition switch. If it cranks when bypassed at the "S" terminal on the solenoid, look for issues in the circuit that includes the p/n switch (or clutch switch on a manual) & ignition switch.
• A loose starter that hangs up against the flywheel when it tries to crank. It jams, overloads & drops the voltage.
• A bad starter. Many auto parts stores will test them.
• A frozen engine. Serious breakage inside, hydrolocked, rusted solid, badly broken parts keeping the engine from rotating, etc. With the key off & the coil wire disconnected, trans in park or neutral, try turning the engine over with a breaker bar on the crank bolt.

If you've had both grinding & buzzing, check the starter mounting bolts, since loose bolts can cause both.​

B- Testing at the solenoid

​

Normally your solenoid should be under the hood, on the passenger side inner fender, near the battery. It should look like the pic below (Well, maybe a little nicer than that one :toothless). It is a good place to start testing.​

​

The solenoid is the final control to supply power to the starter, & where both the small control circuit from the ignition switch & large primary circuit come into play. Older Broncos use the older style, 4 terminal solenoid like the pic "E" below from my 69 F250, Later Broncos have the 3 post type in the pic "D". If you look close in the plastic right above the 2 small terminals on the 4 post, you can see an "S" & an "I".​

​

Be ready to disconnect the battery if it doesn't stop cranking. Do the usual safety stuff. Be ready for the engine to crank throughout testing. Block the wheels, keep it in Park (Neutral for a stick), parking brake set, parked on flat ground, keep wires & hands clear of the fan, etc.**​

​

1- Disconnect everything from the small "S" terminal (the only small terminal on a 3 post) on the solenoid (This should be only 1 wire. If there are more than 1, it can be a source for unintentional cranking). Test the solenoid by momentarily jumping from positive to the small "S" terminal. You jump like you would turn the key to "Start", so you don't do it for very long. It should crank if the solenoid, battery, large cables, & starter are all good, & stop when you disconnect the jumper.​

​

2- If you find that the solenoid is working properly by running that test, measure voltage between the disconnected wire from the "S" terminal & negative. It should read 0 volts at rest, 12v in park with the key switch in the start position. If it reads no voltage with the switch on, you'll have to trace down why it isn't getting power when it should. The ignition switch, P/N safety switch, & the wiring between all affect that circuit.​

​

3- If it doesn't crank jumped to the small "S" terminal, try touching a screwdriver or heavy jumper cable between the 2 large solenoid posts. Again, be ready for it to crank at any time. It may also throw some sparks as you jump across. If it cranks while jumped between the large posts, but doesn't when jumped to the "S" post, it indicates a bad solenoid, or a solenoid that isn't grounded to the fender. Be aware the sometimes new ones out of the box are bad. If it doesn't crank while jumped between large posts, something is wrong in the large circuit that includes the starter, large cables, & the battery. Go thru the list above for possible causes.​

​

C- Starter Engagement

D- 90 Bronco Solenoid (3 post)

E- 69 F250 Solenoid (4 post)

F- Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else.

G- Corroded cable.

From 67 GTO
"Thought I'd add an image for this. Cable was extremely stiff, but not 6" further down. Figure that's an easy way to find 'hidden' corrosion. And, yeah, those universal terminals are complete junk. Guess I'm just a sucker for punishment. :banghead"



** I make sure it is in the correct gear every time. I was taught to, but sometimes it seemed silly to double check. Until I was helping my little brother start his 37 Chevy pickup & suddenly found that it was in compound low, now running, driving over stuff in the yard, with me laying on the fender, going butt first, headed for the fence. I choked the carb to try to stall it, & my brother yanked the coil wire. He said that he thought about it shocking him, so maybe he shouldn't grab it, but then he decided that I might die, so he grabbed it anyway. Thanks again little brother. :thumbup

Here on FSB I have seen 3 others with runaway vehicles. One was a remote start added to a manual vehicle in a cold climate. He was sure that it would always be left in neutral. It ended up in a pool. Another was a Bronco that was being started at the solenoid due to ignition issues. At the oil change place he thought they had it in the right gear. He started it for them from under the hood to check for leaks & it drove off the pit & across the street before hitting something. The 3rd drove up into the engine compartment of his wife's car while she was in the driver's seat giving him a jump. She was not impressed.

Bottom line is check the gear every time.

 

[El Kabong]

24 -My starter keeps running. Where do I start?

Disconnect the negative side of the battery.

The solenoid is going to be the key to pinpointing your problem. It is the final control to supply power to the starter, & where both the small control circuit & large primary circuit come into play. The first pic below is the older style, 4 terminal solenoid. If you look close in the plastic right above the 2 small terminals, you can see an "S" & an "I". The second pic is a newer style 3 terminal solenoid. The single small terminal is the "S" terminal.

Be ready to disconnect the battery at any point if it doesn't stop cranking. Do the usual safety stuff. Be ready for the engine to crank or start throughout testing. Block the wheels, keep it in park, brake set, keep wires & hands clear of the fan, etc.**

1- Disconnect everything from the small "S" terminal on the solenoid (This should be only 1 wire). Try connecting the battery for a second. If it cranks, the solenoid is stuck on, or someone has connected the cables from the battery & starter together on the same side of the solenoid.

2- If it doesn't crank with that wire disconnected, leave the battery connected, & test the solenoid by momentarily jumping from positive to the small "S" terminal. It should crank if the solenoid is good, & stop when you disconnect the jumper.

3- If you find that the solenoid is working properly by running those tests, measure voltage between the disconnected wire from the "S" terminal & negative. It should read 0 volts at rest, 12v in park with the key switch in the start position. If it reads voltage with the switch off, you'll have to trace down why it's getting power when it shouldn't.

If you look at the solenoids below, you can see that several wires connect to the terminal for the positive cable from the battery, but only one wire goes to each of the other terminals. If any of those other wires that should connect to the positive cable are connected to the cable to the starter, or small "S" terminal, you may have some sort of backfeed bypassing or triggering the solenoid.

69 Solenoid

90 Solenoid

** I do this every time. I was taught to, but when I was young sometimes it seemed silly to double check. Until I was helping my little brother start his 37 Chevy & thought he had checked everything. We suddenly found that it was in compound low, now running, driving over stuff in the yard, with me laying on the fender, going butt first for the fence. I choked the carb to try to stall it, & my brother pulled the coil wire. He said that he thought at first it might shock him, so maybe he shouldn't, but then he decided that I might die, so he did anyway. Thanks little brother. :thumbup

 

[theramsey3]

25 -My bronco won't start. It cranks over but has no spark, why?

Ok so your bronco wont start. It cranks over but has no spark. There are a few possibilities for why lets take a look at them.




A) You have a bad ignition coil, no power or signal at the coil. How do I test for this?

To test the coil get out the DMM= Digital Mutli Meter. Test the primary circuit for resistance. It should be .3-1 ohms. Test the secondary circuit from the coil negative to the plug wire output. Resistance should be 8,000 to 11,500 ohms. If coil is out of this range replace it.

Test for power at the coil with the key in the run position. Test ignition module output with a test light put the test light between the two wires at the coil harness if it flashes TFI module and PIP are functioning.

Coil primary circuit wiring(see the below picture for TFI module pin out)

to test the coil primary circuit wiring you should have already tested for 12v+ from coil+ to ground with key in run position now you need to test from TFI pin 2 to coil negative with harnesses disconnected resistance should be less than 5 ohms

next test from coil negative with only the coil harness disconnected to ground should be more than 10,000 ohms.




B) You have a bad TFI= Thick Film Ignition module. Can I test that?

If you have a distributor mounted TFI you can test it yourself; However I highly recommend you have it tested at the parts store of your choice several times to get it hot during testing. Most TFI problems are intermittent and only occur when the module is hot, Not all but most, so you need to create the environment in which it is failing to test it.

test power supply to the TFI module by using the chart below.

If you have a remote mounted TFI module you have to take it in to test it.

C) My TFI module is good what else can cause this? Your PIP in the distributor might be bad. well how do I test for that?

PIP = Profile Ignition Pick up

PIP test distributor mounted TFI only

Test for AC voltage from pin 6 of the TFI module with harness connected to negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be 3-8.5 volts

PIP test remote mount TFI only

disconnect the distributor harness and test for 12v+ at pin 8 with the key in the run position now disconnect the S terminal at the starter solenoid/relay to disable the starter and turn key to start position test for voltage again. Hook the S terminal back up to the starter solenoid/relay test for AC voltage from pin 1 of the distributor to the negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be between 3-8.5

measure from module pin 6 to distributor pin 1 resistance should be less than 5 ohms and finally measure from pin 6 of the remote TFI module to ground you should get more than 10,000 ohms.

remote mount module distributor harness

Feel free to PM me to critique me or to add anything.

For the original post see post#19 here> http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180544
For a few more Ideas and discussions on this subject look here> http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/search.php?searchid=3800791

 

[Ziggy]

Damn El Kabong, you must be really bored this weekend but a damn good job on all the info. You need to add this to your list:
Post 17
25-What transfer case do I have?

 

[theramsey3]

I beat you to it there ziggy yours should be
post 18
26-what transfer case do I have?

 

[El Kabong]

Haha. Shoot Ziggy, I haven't done anything this weekend. That's theramsey3's work.

If you have the answer to your T-case question, post it up here & I'll add it to the contents in post 1 like Ramsey's. Just use the same Q & A format. If you have more info on something that's already there, just use the same number. If we all kick in what we know, we should be able to cover a lot of ground.

p.s. -Nice work Ramsey. :thumbup