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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I finally got a donor axle to rebuild for my truck. It is out of a 92', just like mine. Got it complete from hub to hub for $150. Could have been had cheaper other places, but I would have had to drive to get them. This one was right down the road.

BEFORE YOU READ ANY FURTHER- I have no interest or need in doing an SAS right now. Don't have the time or the tools either. This can be done on my own time and swapped straight into the truck when we do the lift.

I plan on swapping the rebuilt axle in when I do the Rancho 4 inch lift, hopefully in the spring. I want everything in the front end to be new.

THE PLAN:

Completly tear down the axle. Take a wire wheel and sandpaper to all painted surface. Repaint everything.

Starting from the outside in:

-New Warn Premiuim hubs
-New inner and outer wheel bearings, races and seals.
-New brake rotors
-New brake calipers
-New braided stainless brake lines
-New spinde bearings and seals
-New balljoints
-New axle shaft u-joints
-Change diff fluid and inspect stock gears for wear/damage
-New axle pivot bushings
-New steering components

I havn't decided yet on the D50 slip shaft yet. There aren't very many availaibe around here.

Keeping the stock gears and open diff for now. They will be changed to a Detroit Tru-Trac and 4.56s at the same time the rear is, when I upgrade to 35s in a year or so.

Also adding a drain plug to the diff while it is out.

That should just about cover everything. I want the axle to look brand new when it goes back under the truck.

Here are some pics of the axle after three cans of degreaser and about 30 mins with the pressure washer. Should start the teardown tomorrow, I will post more pics after that.

Any sugestions are welcomed!:thumbup




 

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Lick my balls
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13,023 Posts
Drain plug sounds like a good idea.
I would only replace what needs replacing if I were you. It is very likely, most of what you listed is just fine.
 

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Registered
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1,077 Posts
I know you probably already have considered this, and made the decision based on your needs and budget etc. etc. etc....But, I have to say this, or it's going to eat at me all day

Why not go ahead and re-gear now, while everything is out, then re-gear the rear as well when you do the lift. Instead of having to tear down the entire front end again in a year's time to re-gear. That TTB (to me) was a total PITA to tear apart, and after I did it once I never wanted to do it again.

Sounds like you've got a good plan going though
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Drain plug sounds like a good idea.
I would only replace what needs replacing if I were you. It is very likely, most of what you listed is just fine.
I couldnt see myself tearing into the axle this far without replacing everything that is replaceable. I have no idea how many miles are on this axle. Better to be safe than sorry. Replacing everything will leave no loose ends.

I would also replace the rad arm bushings. If you have any intentions of wheeling the truck, do the spring trick and D-50 stub shaft install. There are a lot of them running around.
Radius arm bushing will also get replaced.

I know of the spring trick like Andy did, but is the spring kit that you use with the Tru Trac the same thing?

If you do the spring trick and the axle is in good shape, getting the chunk out further down the road to regear shouldn't take you any time at all. I think guys have even taken the chunk out without removing the passenger's side spindle and axle shafts.
I am wanting to wait to regear becuase I have a brand new set of 33s waiting to go on the truck. I figured by the time those wear down, I should have enough more saved up to buy the 35s and regear the front and rear at the same time.

Thanks for the replies. Keep em comming.
 

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OUT OF BUSINESS / M.I.A.
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10,858 Posts
This all sounds pointless to me. :shrug
add the drain, regear w/ diff & D50 shaft now. Then store it away untill the rear is done. You will get the cost of the front out of the way now, and it will go quicker in the future.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
This all sounds pointless to me. :shrug
add the drain, regear w/ diff & D50 shaft now. Then store it away untill the rear is done. You will get the cost of the front out of the way now, and it will go quicker in the future.
I understand what you are saying, but the lift is going on before I will be ready to regear. And I am not putting the lift on with the old axle just to take it all back apart to swap this axle in when it is regeared.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
You could put in the old chunk onto the new axle.

BTW, I would also replace the seals in the center section. Those things love to leak.
I will still have to swap them when it comes time to regear though. Either way, it will have to come back apart for the gears to be installed.

I am doing a whole rebuild kit when I do the gears, so that should cover the seals.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Knuckle under while you're at it. With a 4" lift you really won't need a drop pitman at that point.
Are there any advantages to this other than not needing the drop pitman arm? Becuase one comes with the Rancho kit, so I am paying for it anyway.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,025 Posts
Are there any advantages to this other than not needing the drop pitman arm? Becuase one comes with the Rancho kit, so I am paying for it anyway.
the main reason I had done it was actually to keep my steering components up as high as possible to avoid damage off-road.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
the main reason I had done it was actually to keep my steering components up as high as possible to avoid damage off-road.
Alright, thanks. I will search around a little and look into it.:thumbup
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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6,949 Posts
bronco graveyard sells some sleeves if you do the kunckle under. They make the fit a little better/safe according to some people. I can see their point too.

When you pull the thing apart, inspect everything. Your wheel bearings probably aren't bad, along with many other things. I would probably end up replacing most of the stuff in an 1/2 ton when building it because the parts are relatively cheap. The bearings, calipers, etc on wonton stuff is really pricey thou.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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15,297 Posts
Synthetic grease, especially on those inner spindle bearings

Greasble U-joints (needle fitting type)

Urethane axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings (same price)

Sixlitre
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
bronco graveyard sells some sleeves if you do the kunckle under. They make the fit a little better/safe according to some people. I can see their point too.

When you pull the thing apart, inspect everything. Your wheel bearings probably aren't bad, along with many other things. I would probably end up replacing most of the stuff in an 1/2 ton when building it because the parts are relatively cheap. The bearings, calipers, etc on wonton stuff is really pricey thou.
Yeah, everything that can possibly be replaced will be. Like I said before, I can't see myself spending all the time and effort to tear it all apart without replacing everything.



how about some extended radius arms?
They will come with the Rancho kit. I plan on doing the same kit that Stan just did. With the Bilstiens
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Didnt get to do any work on the axle today. Wed. morning it is going down though. Pics will follow.
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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5,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Got a little bit done today…

PART 1: Brake and Hub Removal

NOTE- I am doing this teardown with the axle out of the truck. If you are attempting it with the axle in the truck, first remove the wheel and tire and brake caliper. Set it out of the way and make sure it isn’t hanging from the brake line.

First things first, the tools you will need:

-Allen Wrench to fit your hub dial screws (this will differ with make and model of hub)
-Snap Ring Pliers
-Set of Dentist Picks
-Spindle Nut Socket
-1/2” Drive Ratchet
-Pry Bar
-Latex Gloves



I also have the 3/8” drive sockets and PB Blaster pictured, but they will be used in a later write-up.


Step 1: Remove the 6 Allen head screws that hold the hub dial to the locking hub itself.

Step 2: Insert the pry bar behind the u-joint where the axle shaft and stub shaft meet. Push the axle outward to provide access of the snap ring.


Step 3:
Remove the snap ring on the axle shaft.

Step 4: Using the dentist picks, remove the retaining ring in the groove of the hub.


Step 5:
Thread two of the allen head screws back into the locking hub and remove it from the hub.

Step 6: Using the spindle nut socket and ½” drive ratchet, remove the spindle nut.


For whatever reason, the driver’s side spindle nut came out in pieces. Never had seen that before.


Step 7:
Remove the outer wheel bearing.


Step 8:
Remove the hub and rotor assembly

Then you are left with the bare spindle with the axle shaft in the middle.

And all of the old parts you just removed.

All I will be reusing are the hubs themselves.

This is a good time to go ahead and soak the nuts that hold the spindle on in PB Blaster. I tried taking one of them off, and it just spun on the stud. No fun.:banghead
 

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Practicing Infidel
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15,297 Posts
Good work GT

I'm dying to see them inner spindle bearings ! Keep up the good work and lean your arm against something when you're taking the shots (that'll help you take clear shots).:thumbup

Sixlitre
 
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