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Discussion Starter #1
Hi gang. Just for kicks, I checked my computer codes. Note that the only emission components that actually work are the solenoids for the air system and the air pump.
Any way, I borrowed my friends obd1 digital code reader. Got engine to op. temp. and hooked the reader up.
Here are the codes I got:
KEOEO- 22, 23, 67, 68
continuous memory- 18, 22, 13
Now for my question.
In the code chart that came with the reader,
code 67- neutral pressue switch circuit failure
continuous code 18- loss of tach input/idm circuit failure
18- spout circuit grounded
Code chart in the haynes manual
code 67- neutral/drive switch open or a/c on
code 18- spout circuit open or spark angle word failure.

Is the neutral pressure switch and a neutral/drive switch the same?
My neutral safety switch works fine, I can't start it with it in drive or reverse.
The continuous code 18- spout circuit open, did the computer store this fault when I changed my timing?
I know that my spout circuit is working because when I changed my timing, I disconneted the spout connecter, my timing light showed a steady mark.
Then I connected the spout connector and checked the timing again and the mark was jumping all over the place.
Any input would be appreciated.
By the way, the digital code reader would not allow me to check koer test because it did not recieve the 11 pass code in the koeo test. Bummer, would have liked to know what the running codes are.
oh, one more question, what is the idm circuit?
Thanks
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #2
codes

thanks steve, I will check out that thread.
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #3
codes

Steve83, good thread, thanks.
Another question comes to mind. The 22 and 23 codes I got tell me that there is a problem with the map and throttle position sensors.
Could theses two sensors have killed my gas mileage?
Since september of this year, my mileage droped about 4mpg. The map sensor I think is original and the tps was replaced about a year ago.
The bronco runs good and no idle issues. I'm going to do some testing this weekend, mainly to see if the map sensor holds a vacuum.
Maybe if I replace the map and tps it will run even better.
Thanks
Bill
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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FYI: the MAP test requires a frequency-counting DVOM or a 'scope.

They do have such animals (the DVOM at least) at VatoZone. If you take the sensor there, they should be able to test it with that and a lantern battery. If they don't know how (don't be surprised :rolleyes: ), ask if one of them can print out the diagnostic test procedure for it, and then have one of them come out to your truck with the meter. Backprobe the MAP line, and you should be able to determine whether it's working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Steve83, got your point. Test before replacing. I should know that from reading endless amounts of posts on this forum. I will test before replacing.
Sigepblue, aren't there 2 different types of map sensors? A frequency type and a voltage type. I definitely might be wrong but I think the frequency type is used on the fuel injected engines. mine is carbed. Correct me if I'm wrong because I very well may be.
Bill
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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:scratchhe

There are two kinds, yes, but I have yet to see the voltage type. Even on my carbureted 2.3L '84 Mustang, and on my brother's '85 3.8L TBI T-bird, there were frequency-type MAP sensors.

I think the only way to know for sure would be to get the original part number, and try to cross-reference it to a new part to see whether it's the same as the frequency-type or not.
 
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