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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a continuation of the following two threads:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121827
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124227

I bought all new injectors. No they are not the exposed spintle design either.I don't remember who it was that recommended me to a eBay store but i got the multi-ported injectors (with the 4 little holes in the end. I installed the injectors and cranked her up. She was running a little ruff with a few lifters tapping but she WAS running. I also went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the distributor cap and rotor and replaced the air filter. I fired her up after the tune-up and it was not running any better than before.

So i was gonna giver her a run down the interstate to see if it would burn the crap out. Unfortunately i never made it down the street. It stumbled and died at the first stop sign. I manager to start her up again and went strait back home on only 4 cylinders. I did all that 3 weeks ago. I had to stop because my started motor burned up and i discovered a leak in the heater core.

Today I replaced the starter and by-passed the heater core.
I started her up afterwords and no surprise when it didn't run right. So I performed the code dump. First time around i got the following code:

123 - TP Sensor Circuit Below Maximum Voltage

Did a ram clear of the EEC and went at it again. 15 minutes later got the same code. After and hour or so of trying to figure out why the TPS was flagging i found a connector wire backed out of the TPS cable. Reconnected it and it cleared the code.

I started the bronco back up and it ran worse than before. So i let it run till the CEL lit up and then I code dumped.

111 - System pass (Makes no sense that this would trigger the CEL!)
327 - EVP or DPFE circuit above maximum voltage (I don't know what either of those two sensors are. . .)
172 - Hego system always lean
654 - MLP sensor not in park position (Whats this sensor?)

I am starting to think i am going to have to take my baby to the doctor. I really don't want to though.

If someone can please tell me what my bronco is doing i would love to know. I am craving a mud run!

Thanks in advance to any and all replies!

Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Come on people... 12 views and no posts!? I am disparate here.

Oh, by the way... BUMP :p
 

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Service before Self
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This is a continuation of the following two threads:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121827
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124227

I bought all new injectors. No they are not the exposed spintle design either.I don't remember who it was that recommended me to a eBay store but i got the multi-ported injectors (with the 4 little holes in the end. I installed the injectors and cranked her up. She was running a little ruff with a few lifters tapping but she WAS running. I also went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the distributor cap and rotor and replaced the air filter. I fired her up after the tune-up and it was not running any better than before.

So i was gonna giver her a run down the interstate to see if it would burn the crap out. Unfortunately i never made it down the street. It stumbled and died at the first stop sign. I manager to start her up again and went strait back home on only 4 cylinders. I did all that 3 weeks ago. I had to stop because my started motor burned up and i discovered a leak in the heater core.

Today I replaced the starter and by-passed the heater core.
I started her up afterwords and no surprise when it didn't run right. So I performed the code dump. First time around i got the following code:

123 - TP Sensor Circuit Below Maximum Voltage

Did a ram clear of the EEC and went at it again. 15 minutes later got the same code. After and hour or so of trying to figure out why the TPS was flagging i found a connector wire backed out of the TPS cable. Reconnected it and it cleared the code.

I started the bronco back up and it ran worse than before. So i let it run till the CEL lit up and then I code dumped.

111 - System pass (Makes no sense that this would trigger the CEL!)
327 - EVP or DPFE circuit above maximum voltage (I don't know what either of those two sensors are. . .)
172 - Hego system always lean
654 - MLP sensor not in park position (Whats this sensor?)

I am starting to think i am going to have to take my baby to the doctor. I really don't want to though.

If someone can please tell me what my bronco is doing i would love to know. I am craving a mud run!

Thanks in advance to any and all replies!

Kyle
EVP is the EGR position sensor that sits on top of the EGR valve. If it is above maximum voltage then it is stuck open or bad. Check your vacuum lines to and from your EGR solenoid and valve.

If it is stuck open, it will cause a lean running condtion as it is getting too much air and not metering the correct amount of fuel. If you check Ryan's website www.fordfuelinjection.com he has some diagnostic stuff and proper voltage readings. Then you need to start checking sensors. like VREF to ground from the EGR plug, etc.

Your problem definitely sounds like it is EGR related... and if it idles like its "hitting a lick" like it has a huge cam in it then thats what it is. Same thing happened to me and my EGR solenoid was stuck in the open position.

You can also (just for testing) pull the EGR vacuum line off of the EGR valve and see if it smooths up..

Also, check your fuel pressure. That can cause the same symptoms. The schrader valve is on the drivers side fuel rail...

If its fuel pressure, it will usually only run (very $hitty) with WOT..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will be running the checks in the morning. I failed to mention earlier that when i was ripping hair of my head trying to figure out just WTF is going I tried a few other things. Started the BKO up and got it to idle... barely! Thing sounded like a Harley with horrible lifter tapping and backfiring bad. (no it is not timing, checked that too ;) )

While the engine knocked and rattled i went under the hood and started playing with some connections. I unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor first and nothing happened. Usually that would kill the engine. Next I unplugged the EGR and guess what... nothing. Plugged those sensors back up and started looking for vacuum leaks. I found one vacuum line disconnected and it was the one that went to the EGR. It was pulling a strong vacuum through it so that told me the vacuum system seems solid. I connected the vacuum line to the EGR and still I got no results. I got a wild hair up the backside and decided to fiddle with the timing just a little bit to see what would happen. Advance it and it started backfiring. Retard it and the engine would sputter and die.

And for the fuel pressure coming from the pump... i don't think is an issue. If you prospected the other two threads i mentioned above, in one of them I did do a Pressure test. I didn't have any tools for fuel pressure testing so all i could do was depress the spintle and kick on the ignition. HI HO!!! There is a miniature "old faithful" under the hood of my BKO!:shocked

I will get on the EGR first to see if it is the issue and I will post back as soon as I know something.
 

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#1 . If it sounds like a loud (not stock) Harley you got a broken exhaust manifold, or bad exhaust leak somewhere. That should have been a dead giveaway to check your exhaust system for leaks. If you've got a bad cat, it would throw your egr off, IMO.

#2. Is it blowing smoke? What color smoke.

#3. Didya check your MASS air flow sensor? because if it ain't reading the incoming air right, the motah's gonna run poorly and smoke.
 

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Also I guess the spark plug wiring needs to be routed correctly, there's a post on that in bronco questions under concho's problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The stock headers are not leaking at all. The clattering and "Harley" sound is coming from the Lifters. The lifters fade in and out. When the lifters aren't clattering like a impact drill you cant hear anything from the engine compartment.

For the cat.... it is not packed up. I had it checked last year and it was in great condition.

No there is no smoke. Only unburned air-fuel mixture coming from the misfiring cylinders.

Also I don't have a MAS. Mine is the Speed-Density setup.
 

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I have no idea what a speed density set up is, I just know of a map, or a maf.

I believe a mechanic could have been able to determine if sugar was in the gas tank through some sort of testing. Now you do not know if it was sugar or not.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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No there is no smoke. Only unburned air-fuel mixture coming from the misfiring cylinders.
So you're getting raw gasoline out the tailpipe? :scratchhe


Have you double-checked the firing order? Your fuel pressure testing method is completely invalid. You need a GAUGE to determine fuel pressure. Both 15 and 40 psig are enough pressure to push fuel out of the rail fitting like that, but only one will allow the truck to run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So you're getting raw gasoline out the tailpipe? :scratchhe
Not RAW gas... no it unburnt air and fuel mixed together (as if it was running extremely rich). Burns the nose hairs off when you smell it
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Its running now. I believe the issue is gummed up valves. I let the engine idle for about 45 minutes. While she was idling I took the opportunity to check that I was getting fire to all of my plugs by use of a timing light. It was shortly after that when i got a couple of very loud explosions out the tail pipe followed by some big puffs of black smoke and then the idle shot up to 1500 RPM and the engine smoothed out tremendously.

I will be at ORielly's first thing in the morning to get some fuel and oil treatment.
 

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You can try buying some BG 44K, or sea foam and running it through your vaccum system if you know what you're doing. It is supposed to clean your upper end out of all that gunk you got in there. If not a mechanic will do it for a bill or so..
 
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