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Discussion Starter #1
I know, alot of you are going to say its not the way to go, but its the way I want to go. Anyone got any info on getting rid of the brake booster and converting the brakes over to manual brakes? Do I need to replace the master cylinder or can I use the same one and just get a different push rod? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I am sure some one has done this, not sure why other than the less moving parts theory, but if you do it might as well make a tech write up for the site.
 

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Why.
 

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Enjoy my
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Its one thing to sh*t can the ABS system but why would you want to remove the booster from the equation?
 

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Lick my balls
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Have you ever driven a heavy vehicle with manual brakes and try stopping? Obviously not.
You have to apply full force on the brake pedal especially when on a hill if you want to stop and stay stopped.

Are you smoking something that rhymes with, large quantities of crack cocaine?????
 

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My '66 f series has manual brakes, I wound up welding an 8" piece of diamond plate over the dinky little stock brake pedal so I could get both feet on it!!! At a stop light I keep both feet on it just to keep the torque from the 406 from goin' anywhere. I have a disk conversion from a '76, the proper porportioning valve and master cyl., and it sux. I can lock up all 4 wheels, but the amount of effort from traffic light to traffic light wears you out. I wish I would have added a booster- just too give ya an idea on how much of a bad idea it is.
But, you should be able to just get/add/subtract to the rod length (if they're even different) and be good to go. I just added about 3" to mine when I converted from the single master to the dual, the firewall bolt pattern is the same, it should be identical on all ford trucks.
 

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Hmmm... I posted in my original post that I knew most wouldnt agree with it, but its the way I want to go, figuring that would get me the answer I wanted instead of alot of people questioning me. Instead I get pretty much just a bunch of "why" and questions regarding the type of cigarettes I smoke. No real answer, cept for one recommending who I need to talk to. thanks for that lead, I will check that guy out!

Now to answer some of the questions..... Been a mechanic for over 25 years, been turning wrenches for longer than that. Yes, I have driven vehicles with manual brakes, took my driving test many years ago in a 6 wheel farm truck with manual brakes. Several of my previous vehicles had manual brakes. I KNOW what driving a vehicle with manual brakes feels like. My truck is a half ton, with a 4 speed manual and a 5.0, I dont have to worry bout torque of a big block trying to walk me away from a red light. My booster I have in there now is no good, takes more power to stop the truck right now with a dead booster than it would with manual brakes. I would like to just get rid of the booster and clean up the engine compartment some. I know they make kits to do this for hi-performance cars that have cams in them. The vacuum on those hi-performance engines is normally too low at idle to be able to use a booster. But I cant find any of the kits for my truck. I am thinking I could just take off the booster, mount the master cylinder to the fire wall and use a different rod to connect it to the pedal. But I am not totally sure I can do this. My truck is a daily driver so I cant have it down too long. Thats why I was asking if anyone knew how to do it. If I knew what I needed before hand, than I could have everything ready and not waste time trying to make it work. Thanks anyways though, I will try to contact that one guy, as well as keep searching the internet.
 

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:shrug

I just wanted to know why... you can do whatever dumb stuff you want to, to your truck, it really doesn't upset me at all. :rofl:

Why don't you look into the F350 brake conversion, it's an easy swap, and will give you all the braking power with a feather touch to the pedal you could ever want.
 

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ate lug
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You could just swap in a one-ton master/booster if you want more stopping power. Or, convert to hydro-boost since those parts will bolt in as well. However i get the feeling your trying to avoid spending alot of money on this project (nothin wrong with that), but it would be easier still to just put a new booster in it. In my opinion it will stop better with a new booster than with manual brakes.
That said, im thinking youre existing master cylinder will work, but id probably source one for manual brakes anyway, just in case there is a big difference inside. I guess you could try it. Either way, i dont see it being a real easy swap since youll have to redesign the linkages from the pedal to the master to ensure that not only will they hold up to the extra pressure your foot is applying to them, but also to make sure you have proper travel inside the M.C., so you have full brake power, but dont accidentally break the M.C. in half if you slam on the brakes. Youll have to make up an adapter to bolt the M.C. to the four studs (well, they appear to be studs, but they are actually bolts) that the booster is currently bolted to as those also hold the frame-work for the gas/brake pedals to the firewall, so you wont be removing those.
Doable, yes. On a weekend so you can drive to work monday? Not something id want to do, theres definitely going to be trial & error with this project.
 

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Conversion

I know, alot of you are going to say its not the way to go, but its the way I want to go. Anyone got any info on getting rid of the brake booster and converting the brakes over to manual brakes? Do I need to replace the master cylinder or can I use the same one and just get a different push rod? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is common practice with a lot of mud drag racers.

Go to the junk yard and find another truck with same body style and manual brakes. Remove everything the master cylinder, the bolts, any plates held in with those same four bolts, and the rod (VERY Important, take the pin out of the top of the brake pedal arm and bushing if any good). Then remove the booster master cylinder etc. from your truck and put the rest back in from the old jyard donor. It is up to you wheter you want to use the jyard cylinder or not you could just buy a new cylinder and only get all the mounting hardware from the jyard. Make sure you bleed the brakes prior to driving. Another warning take someone else to the jyard with you because you will need one person inside under the dash and another outside under the hood. Two people in a junkyard would probably average 30 mins to remove everything taking into account using hand tools and dificult junkyard conditions.

Job Difficulty chart: EASY
 

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It's BTW Not AKA!
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This is in the same category as wanting to ditch EFI for a carb.
 

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Most people I know go back words because they don't understand what they currently have and think its the answer to there problems. I don't agree that removing the brake booster will clean the engine compartment. What are you doing, a body drop? They make boosters that are smaller to accommodate for modifications. Sounds like a BS excuse to me. Its not a show truck as your previous statement pretty much said. Most people that don't build enough vacuum to run a vacuum booster will run a hydro or electric unit. So back to everyone elses question. Why?
 

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Most people I know go back words because they don't understand what they currently have and think its the answer to there problems. I don't agree that removing the brake booster will clean the engine compartment. What are you doing, a body drop? They make boosters that are smaller to accommodate for modifications. Sounds like a BS excuse to me. Its not a show truck as your previous statement pretty much said. Most people that don't build enough vacuum to run a vacuum booster will run a hydro or electric unit. So back to everyone elses question. Why?
:stupid

Those hi-po cars he referred to almost always have electro-hydraulic brake systems.

Just taking off the simple drum looking thing behind your master cylinder isn't really going to clean up the look of your engine bay... at all...

You still have the MC/two lines and the other stuff running down to your brakes.

The f350 MC/BB will make an incredible difference in brakes... I think it was Gacknar that can lock up his 38's at speed with the thunderbird front calipers and f350 wheel cylinders with that f350 BB/MC. Now that's some braking power... way more easy and intelligent then swapping back to a non power assist setup.
 
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