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ok sonim doing a front clip swap back as I picked up an 89 xlt that someone had put a 92 front clip on and I'm goin back to the original style front clip and I'm having some issues lining things up and need some help mainly on the core support to fenders
 

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Yo T,
Member Justshootme84 wrote @ Core support/bodymount replacement on a 90
"THose spacers/flat washers are used to align your body panels to each other, like the fenders to the cowl/front of cab on each side and at each body mount."

In same thread:
Member 85bigbronco wrote "Well I got everything put back together but I still need to cut the shroud and extend my shift linkage. And my passengert door and front fender are really close. door opens but its close. So I tried moving the spacers but it didn't change the gap. So iguess I will try and loosen the front fender and move it forward a little. I never looked at the gap befor I did it so it might have always been like that. Any ideas on other ways to fix..."

Former member Steve83 replied "
Loosen the bolts nearest the tight spot (top 2 by the hood or bottom 1 in front of the threshhold), pry the fender forward carefully away from the door, then tighten the bolts. It's better to pry it a little too far because you can loosen the bolts & allow it to slide back slowly until it's just right.

If you really wanna get anal about it, enlarge these:
.
Thanks to Tim.

I posted these instructions on another BBS years ago, and it's dying, so I'm reposting them here to save them.
It didn't take me more than 5 hours working alone to change the whole truck, and I had to hacksaw 2 mounts and file 2 bolt heads. I wouldn't try doing them one at a time - you might twist the body permanently. Work down one frame rail, tighten them all back down, then move to the other side.

The rearmost bolts are the easiest to get to - just remove the tailgate threshhold and peel the carpet back. The bolts (13mm heads) are right there. If the heads are rusted (like mine), you can file them down to a smaller hex so you can turn them again.
Continue peeling carpet forward and you'll see the access plates for the next mounts, beside the wheelwells. I think the screws have 8mm heads and all the rest of the bolts are 15mm.
The next set is just behind the front seats and I got to mine by pulling the door threshholds, seatbelt reel covers, and kick panels (for the next bolts). Then peel the carpet around until the access plates are visible.
The last inside bolts are in the footwells. With the threshholds and kick panels out, the carpet can be peeled from around the e-brake cable and high-beam switch. I think these access plates have different screws.
The core support bolts are just outside the radiator opening on the back side. These will be the worst because of battery acid and road salt.

The lower section of the mounts consists of a nut welded to a round plate with a tube sticking up. The tube has a flare near the top end.
The upper section is a plate with a tube going down that has a neck near the bottom. At the factory, these tubes are pressed together thru the frame with the rubber captive between the plates. This holds them on before the body is dropped on and bolted down. It's also the
only reason this is a tricky job. The tubes lock together with corrosion over the years and when the rubber sags, they funnel grit down onto the bolts and their threads, making them sometimes impossible to remove intact.

The tricks:
1. If you can con someone competent into doing it for less than $100, get him working on it before the drugs wear off.
2. If you must do it yourself, have a good socket set with good ratchets, extensions, and breaker bars, as well as a ball peen hammer, a blunt drift (punch), vise grips, pry bars, a jack, 2-4 jack stands, a 6-foot 4x4 post, a hacksaw (Stanley Contractor with bimetalloy blades is the best), anti-sieze lubricant, and all the Liquid Wrench from your state and the 3 surrounding.
3. Soak the bolts (especially INSIDE the tubes) with Liquid Wrench several times over the course of a week before starting.
4. Use the pry bars to lift the body and get the Liquid Wrench spray tube on top of the top plate to fill the top tube.
5. Back up the nut from below (above on the core support) with vise grips or wrenches so you don't twist it off the plate.
6. If the bolt won't turn, try vibrating it with the hammer & drift (only on the head) to loosen the threads and let the Liquid Wrench get in.
7. Work down one frame rail at a time so the body doesn't shift out of line.
8. When you finally get a bolt out, rinse it and the hole it came out of with Liquid Wrench and thread it back in about 5 turns. Put the drift squarely on top of the head and smack it with the hammer.
After you lose a few fingernails, the tubes will separate and the bottom section will drop out.
9. BIG TIP ! ! ! Coat the threads with "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" !!!
(I use it on everything.)
10. If the bolt won't turn, or the head strips, or the nut breaks
off, you will have to hacksaw through the tubes. Do it as high as you can so you can reuse the lower section when you eventually separate them. If the bolt breaks, you can still separate the tubes with the drift and get the bolt out later. Don't be afraid to rip the old rubber out of your way - you won't be reusing it.
11. When you have an entire side free (even if there are mounts that need to be hacksawed), put the post under the door running front-to-back along as many body reinforcements as possible. Then use it to lift he body with the jack - 2 inches should be plenty. Don't go too high
or you'll damage the fuel filler and the fan or shroud. Later models also have ground straps that may be too short, but they can be pried off and hammered back on.
12. Remove the old mounts (by hacksawing if necassary) and top sections and immediately replace them with the new ones. (You should have already prepared them per mfr. instructions.)
13. Lower the body straight back onto the new mounts and reinstall the bottom sections and bolts (this is where an assistant is handy).
If you must buy new bolts, get at least grade 5 or class 5.5; grade 5V8 or class 8.8-10.8 is better.
14. If you have a mechanical clutch linkage (like me), adjust it.
Automatics may have to adjust the shift linkage."

MY TIP IS TO PROTECT EYES, hands fingers!
 

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put the radiator support on "loosely" use new bushings on the mounts. start on one side and assemble the fender to the rad support. assemble the other side add the header panel. Tighten everything a little at a time. The door to fender gap is the most important one. The others arent so bad. There were lots of videos with nose swaps on this site. Ive put a new radiator support in most of my trucks and think the rad core support bushings are the key to it coming out well. go from doors forward and you can get it pretty straight. Be picky.
 
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