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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen others have dealt with this. So I broke the top left water pump bolt - the one that goes through into the timing cover.

152001


It's broke off maybe halfway into the timing cover.

So I pulled the balancer and got the lower oil pan / timing cover bolts off the bottom (4) and all the other timing cover bolts out. No issues. Just the one bolt.

152002


The top right part of the cover will come loose a bit - the top left won't budge at all. I'm betting the bolt is corroded inside the aluminum timing cover.

Gonna go pick up a grinder in the morning. Likely a die grinder for my compressor and some cut off wheels. I'm going to essentially cut the one corner where the bolt is stuck and go from there.

Soaked it - beat it with a hammer - nothing.
 

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I just finished doing mine. Frozen solid in the timing case cover had to replace the cover and replaced the chain and gears as long as I was in there.
 

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I've seen others have dealt with this. So I broke the top left water pump bolt - the one that goes through into the timing cover.

View attachment 152001

It's broke off maybe halfway into the timing cover.

So I pulled the balancer and got the lower oil pan / timing cover bolts off the bottom (4) and all the other timing cover bolts out. No issues. Just the one bolt.

View attachment 152002

The top right part of the cover will come loose a bit - the top left won't budge at all. I'm betting the bolt is corroded inside the aluminum timing cover.

Gonna go pick up a grinder in the morning. Likely a die grinder for my compressor and some cut off wheels. I'm going to essentially cut the one corner where the bolt is stuck and go from there.

Soaked it - beat it with a hammer - nothing.
I just went through this and broke the same exact bolt.
Bolt.jpg


Save your money on the die grinder and get a can of MAP gas. Heat it around the seal and the cover will come off. Highly unlikely that corrosion in the hole is what is preventing you from sliding the cover off.

Also if your timing chain has some play in it now is a good time to change it. I had some play and I swapped it out with an Edlebrock Performer Chain. It was the easiest part of the whole job and the truck ran better.

Time.jpg


Time2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just went through this and broke the same exact bolt. View attachment 152006

Save your money on the die grinder and get a can of MAP gas. Heat it around the seal and the cover will come off. Highly unlikely that corrosion in the hole is what is preventing you from sliding the cover off.

Also if your timing chain has some play in it now is a good time to change it. I had some play and I swapped it out with an Edlebrock Performer Chain. It was the easiest part of the whole job and the truck ran better.

View attachment 152007

View attachment 152008
I've got a MAP torch. Problem is the cover will not BUDGE in the top left where the bolt broke off. It's almost like there is another bolt (there's not) that I missed.

I already ordered a new timing cover from NAPA with a Felpro timing gasket kit. They were running 20% off and actually would have it tomorrow and nowhere else (Amazon, Rock Auto etc etc) could get it to me before the end of the week.

I think in the morning I'm just going to heat it and beat the crap out of it and see what's what.

Did you have to remove / loosen any of the oil pan bolts besides the two on each side that connect to the timing cover?

Thanks........
 

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I've got a MAP torch. Problem is the cover will not BUDGE in the top left where the bolt broke off. It's almost like there is another bolt (there's not) that I missed.

I already ordered a new timing cover from NAPA with a Felpro timing gasket kit. They were running 20% off and actually would have it tomorrow and nowhere else (Amazon, Rock Auto etc etc) could get it to me before the end of the week.

I think in the morning I'm just going to heat it and beat the crap out of it and see what's what.

Did you have to remove / loosen any of the oil pan bolts besides the two on each side that connect to the timing cover?

Thanks........
No, there is 4 oil ban bolts total that come out. I had the same issue removing it and I heated the hell out off the gasket and it came right out. I would heat the hole where the broken stud is till it's cherry red and pry it out.

The fun part hasn't even started, its a pain to remove the broken bolt. You can see in the pic below how stripped the threads are, that's from the vice grips. I tried heat and vise grips to no avail, you will probably need a good extractor. I finally used the one below and it came out in 5 minutes..
Bolt.jpg
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Done this several times over the years. If you get the timing cover off and the bolt hasn't broken off flush with the block, you can heat the bolt up with an oxy/acetylene torch till it's cherry red, then let it cool and then try removing it with vise grips. Sometimes you have to heat cycle it a few times before it breaks free.
Good luck
 

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Jealous, some day I'll get an oxy/acetylene torch torch. I just have a small tool shed, so space is limited. I just ordered the Bolt Buster induction tool for an upcoming project, hopefully it will be at least half as effective as a torch.
 

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Do you have access to a Mig welder? If so, weld a nut on the end of the bolt that you have left. Usually the heat from welding will break the rust bond and now you will have a nut to get a wrench on to.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Didn't get to it yesterday - other stuff came up. Will update my build thread.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I wish I could say I was wrong (it would have been easier) but nope - I was right. The only bolt I had trouble with when removing the water pump (that goes through pump and timing cover and into the block) was WELDED together.

152129


152130


None of the other bolts were corroded.

Ended up cutting a corner off the cover, then was able to free the cover EXCEPT for this bolt. Good news is - I got the bolt to actually turn fairly easily (using the timing cover after I cleared the crank snout and oil pan) bad news - it broke off almost flush. I don't think (hope) I will have a problem with it using the extractors.

But it wasn't coming loose from that timing cover.

Whomever did this repair before used too much RTV. The oil pan gasket looks fairly recent and it is the good once piece.
I'm betting I can get away with some RTV and not having to cut the oil pan gasket or use the cork ends.

I'm going to use the small shop vac to clean out the front of oil pan, then open the drain bolt and flush some used oil through it (pouring it into the front opening) to flush out any garbage that may have fallen in.

Will rotate it over to TDC next and see what kind of slop the chain has.
Doesn't seem that bad - but at this point, as cheap as a decent timing set it - I'm kind of at "mine as well".

I've decided upper and lower intake are coming off. Small signs of a oil seep from front intake gasket. I don't want to have to go back in here again. Luckily I have a spare wiring harness so I can replace / repair the garbage "splices" some genius "mechanic" made in the past.

152131
 

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I have had luck with product called kroil “the oil that’s creeps” it has freed up things for me over the years that I had given up on don’t know if it will works for you but for a few dollars might be worth a shot you can find it online I have never seen it in any stored I have been in
 

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I have had luck with product called kroil “the oil that’s creeps” it has freed up things for me over the years that I had given up on don’t know if it will works for you but for a few dollars might be worth a shot you can find it online I have never seen it in any stored I have been in
@ctandc, FWIW Greentop up in Ashland carries Kroil - regular and AeroKroil. Both in orange cans in with gun cleaning supplies.

Kano Lab, maker of Kroil, is pretty easy to deal with directly. I ordered a few quarts of Kreen engine cleaner from them last year, but it's slow going as it has to ship ground. They tossed in a free can of AeroKroil to boot. Love that stuff!
 

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153250
Same problem, I channeled my inner Hercules and broke the water pump off trying to get to the timing cover banghead NYFSB, what extractor kit did you use to get the junk hardware out of the block? Going to try mapp and vise grips but I'm not holding my breath that it'll work. I already have the new parts but I'm worried that if I take a saw or really any cutting tool to it I'll have shavings in my oil. After I finish monkeying around with my cooling system, do I do an oil change just to be safe?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You have a lot of bolt to work with sticking out of the block. Me personally I would use extractor sockets


I would HEAT the area around the bolt, then hit with penetrant (like mentioned Aero Kroil is great - I never replied - but i've used it forever. When I was a kid I worked hanging steel at a paper mill. All the old plant mechanics used it) rinse, repeat. Then try one of the extractor sockets I linked.

Honestly? After what I dealt with - if that didn't work - I would go straight to the "Weld a nut on the broken bolt" camp. In fact, I'd probably START there in your case, since you have A LOT Of bolt there to work with.

As for oil change - oh yeah. You're going to want to anyway since coolant is likely to get into your oil pan when you remove the timing cover.
 

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View attachment 153250 Same problem, I channeled my inner Hercules and broke the water pump off trying to get to the timing cover banghead NYFSB, what extractor kit did you use to get the junk hardware out of the block? Going to try mapp and vise grips but I'm not holding my breath that it'll work. I already have the new parts but I'm worried that if I take a saw or really any cutting tool to it I'll have shavings in my oil. After I finish monkeying around with my cooling system, do I do an oil change just to be safe?
The set I bought is below, but you only need the one that works with the 1/8 drill. I know Lowe's sells them individually. Most important thing is to center the drill, make sure you get a clean Cobalt drill, and when you start with the extractor make sure you don't use any power tools. A 3/8 ratchet, nice and slow and it will come right out.
 

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  • Most important thing is to center the drill, make sure you get a clean Cobalt drill, and when you start with the extractor make sure you don't use any power tools. A 3/8 ratchet, nice and slow and it will come right out.
Could you describe in detail how to use an easy out without breaking it? I watched a YouTube video of a Brit using one, I've never used one before. Do I need to center punch the stud and drill a pilot hole with that 1/8" bit? I should probably throw down a garbage bag so shavings don't get into the oil pan, right? I've been soaking the studs for a day or so now in PB Blaster, will that help?
 

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Could you describe in detail how to use an easy out without breaking it? I watched a YouTube video of a Brit using one, I've never used one before. Do I need to center punch the stud and drill a pilot hole with that 1/8" bit? I should probably throw down a garbage bag so shavings don't get into the oil pan, right? I've been soaking the studs for a day or so now in PB Blaster, will that help?
You might as well pee on it over using PB Blaster. When you first break it loose, then you might want to use a penetrant. I prefer 50/50 mix of acetone(nail polish)/tranny fluild or Kroil but that's not that important in this case. Corrosion has sealed the hole so it won't help.
First center punch the bolt right in the center. This is the key, centering the hole is important as the extractor will just break the bolt if the stud wall is not thick enough. Then start with a 1/16 drill. Drill as deep as the extractor is. Keep working higher with the bits, I skip one at a time, so next is 3/32 and then 1/8. Then start the extractor with the a socket. When it catches, meaning you need to give it some force, stop and heat up the bolt close to the block with a MAP or Propane torch. When the bolt start to get red in color lay off the torch and start loosening the sucker. I would definitely protect the pan with a bag or something and also change the oil just to be safe. You can do this, and you have plenty of bolt left which is advantageous.
 
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