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Ford-a-Holic
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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It might be. You really should put your info in your signature so we may be able to help you better.
I would spend a little more money and buy a "true" double roller timing set, but that's just me.
A true roller has rollers that actually spin as they ride over the gear teeth and are much better IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Like @cobrajoe said, the Edelbrock set isn't a true double roller, but for a stock replacement in an engine you're not rebuilding the Edelbrock is just as good as an OE replacement set.
That being said @SwissCheeseEddie you don't need a puller to remove the timing set. The crank gear is held in place by sliding over crank shaft key (and thus you can only install in one way) and the cam gear is held in by the bolt. And you can only install it one way. Just MAKE SURE to line up the the marks on the crank and cam gear when you install the new set. So turn the engine over (you can thread the balancer bolt / washer back in the crank and use it to rotate the engine - it should not take a lot of effort to turn the engine over) until the marks on the cam and crank gear and lined up. Then take the timing set off and install the new the same way.
 

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The gift of me being a dumba$$ just keeps on giving, now I have to buy a condenser grrrrrrr and I have no idea what to do about the little teeny bit of stud that's left, what do I do now????
 

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Ford-a-Holic
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Carefully center punch it; you must make sure you are dead center, then use a reverse out drill extractor like below:



 

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Discussion Starter #26
Extractors are a black art that I personally I have never mastered and I've been wrenching for right at 30 years. Even when I wrenched for a paycheck I was in awe of the guys who could use extractors and LH drill bits without resorting to pain, cussing and throwing things. Just be SURE to center punch it in the middle of the broken bolt. Seriously. Start with a small GOOD (read expensive) bit and make sure you are dead center. Then move up in bit size gradually.

Or you could find someone who can weld, pay them some cash, they can take a steel fender washer (where the inner diameter of the washer is slightly smaller than the size of the bolt) they can weld the washer to the bolt, then let that cool and then weld a nut to the washer. Between the heat, and now having a nut to use a wrench on - out it comes.
 

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Bought a Cloyes C3057k timing set, and I'm bringing my dad and a welder down to my house to fix my mess. Will update soon.
 

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My dad coached me through welding the nut and then he got it out of the block, so we won there! But now I have another snag, I have to find a bottoming tap that's 18tpi to fix the threads in the crankshaft so I can get it timed and then get the new set on, and eventually the new balancer. Do you guys know where I can find a tap that large and that fine of thread?
 

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Props to Alphaeus Manufacturing LLC for letting me borrow their tap that they just so conveniently happened to have :D crank threads are all fixed now! :D
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Discussion Starter #30
Sweet- glad it worked out. I'm telling you the welding route is a helluv a lot better (Especially with the engine in the truck with limited room) than drilling, drilling, drilling and then praying. The drilling.
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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The bolt at the 3 O'clock on the water pump is stuck/frozen on my 5.0. 🙁


I'm thinking of getting a 2nd DD; I'm looking at a 2010 F-250/4X4/XL/Triton/crewcab.

And just have the Bronco for the trails. :cry:
 

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95 5.8L XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Electric, Manual, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15's, 299K
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For future reference! When you are drilling a broken bolt that needs to be Extracted always use Reverse Drill bits cause the bolt might come out while you are drilling and then you don't need to use the Extractor. Between the heat and vibration of reverse drilling you could get lucky!!! Just an FYI and my $0.02... Good luck
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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For future reference! When you are drilling a broken bolt that needs to be Extracted always use Reverse Drill bits cause the bolt might come out while you are drilling and then you don't need to use the Extractor. Between the heat and vibration of reverse drilling you could get lucky!!! Just an FYI and my $0.02... Good luck
How does reverse drill bits work?

Do you use forward or reverse, or is the direction in the bit?
 

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95 5.8L XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Electric, Manual, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15's, 299K
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The Drill bit has a Reverse/Left-hand twist. You use the drill as if you were removing a screw, (Reverse)!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I've used LH Drill bits, extractors etc. But using the welder trick not only gives you something to get the bolt out with - personally I think the biggest benefit is the heat it transfer into the bolt itself, breaking it look of the corrosion etc holding it in the first place.
 

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95 5.8L XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Electric, Manual, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15's, 299K
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The Reverse/LH drill bits suggestion was for those who don't have access to a Welder.
 

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Ford-a-Holic
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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...or if the bolt is broken below the surface, which I thought this one was from the picture. I always try to weld a nut to it first if it is above the surface.
 
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