I think my transfer case is my issue.
My issue started with a clunking sound coming to a stop. Sounded to me like a auto-hub was trying to engage. I usually roll backwards 20-30 feet and it goes away.
It started happening more often until two days ago, while driving on the snowy highway in 4 high, my low range light started blinking out of nowhere. I pulled over shifted to neutral, and it never went into low, nut the indicator kept flashing. Took it home and parked it.
Next morning start it up, still flashing. Push buttons, shift neutral, kill it, start it, shift it, push button, hit neutral, it stop flashing! Go to back out, howling grinding sound in reverse. Hit park, it gets worse for a sec then catches park and stops grinding. Shift to drive, goes forward fine. Short to reverse, more grinding. Put it in 4 low and it backs out fine. Take it out of low and drove in 4 high to work that night.
Next night 2 wheel high clunking more than normal, braved the snowy midnight drive in 2 high, drives fine. Stopped at the store on the way home, won't reverse again. Had to hit low range again to back out.
Next morning, 6 am, snowy highway drive, disengaged completely at about 40 mph, re-engages when I let off for a sec. I let off and it re-engaged. Continued to slip and catch till I made it to the next exit.
Now it will only move when in low range. 2 wheel and 4 high grind in every position except park.
Pretty sure my t-case is toast. Having a hard time finding one to fit my nonexistant budget. 400 for a iffy one 150 for a boat anchor from a f150 that doesn't match my rear driveshaft output.
I'm looking for suggestions as to an alternative transfer case that bolts right up (maybe stronger, I do a lot of high-speed driving in deep snow), or a source for an affordable hopefully working transfer case.