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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of changing all my battery cables to the solder and heat shrink cable.
I was wondering what you all have done that have auxiliary stuff that is hooked up to your cables.
The first pic shows the cables I am using. As you can see there is not a lot of room to hook up anything other than where the end attaches to the post.
The second pic shows what I am hooking up to the positive cable and I have a couple of the same for the negative cable.

One last question, I have a black cable that runs to the starter that is hooked up to the positive battery cable, is that one supposed to be red or black?

Thanks for you time


 

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shibby
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You could stop by your local marine store and pick up a PowerPost to connect your accessories to.



As for the battery cable colors- it really doesn't matter what color they are. Red is usually for positive and black is for negative but it's no big deal if your starter cable is black.
 

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Redneck Romeo
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In addition to what Dustball said, you can always connect your accessories directly to the bolt on the lug. That's what I did -- not as clean looking, but it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You could stop by your local marine store and pick up a PowerPost to connect your accessories to.



As for the battery cable colors- it really doesn't matter what color they are. Red is usually for positive and black is for negative but it's no big deal if your starter cable is black.
I was just wanting to see what others had done. I saw what Ryan did with his, but it involved a new starter.

I kinda figured thats what was done, I just like to keep everything the same, that way anyone can work on it and not have to ask me what the hell is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In addition to what Dustball said, you can always connect your accessories directly to the bolt on the lug. That's what I did -- not as clean looking, but it works.
For some reason I just don't like that option.
Anyone else do anything that worked better.
If anything I will run back over to napa and take a look around and see what they got.
 

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Get the POWER POST. Its the safest way to wire your truck. Take all that shit off the starter relay + stud and put it onto the new power post. Then make a 2 gauge battery cable to the power post from battery, and then a short 2 gauge from the power post to the starter relay. Makes the battery cable ends look clean, and you can draw any accessory power right off the post instead of the starter relay + stud.

I suppose you could just put your accessories on the starter relay + post instead of running them to the battery, since the battery cable goes straight to the relay...
 

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I soldered all the cables in to a single lug. I thought it looked neater then cables bolted all over everything.
 

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Marine terminals arent really made for autos. Your a ton better off soldering terminals to the end and making custom cables! Those marine terminals look really cheesy and the wire is connected through a crappy eyelet through a stud and nut into the terminal making a shitty connection. A real soldered on 2 gauge battery cable with no other crap hanging off it will really keep corrosion down!

Ford sold the truck with soldered on terminals for a reason! They didnt sell it to you with MARINE battery terminals. This isnt a boat with studs on the battery. This is a HIGH current top post terminal that needs a HIGH quality, connection to prevent corrosion...
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I use lead-free strap terminals and eyelets. No problems hooking up anything ever. :D
 

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I did all for the Nookie
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I dont know how far your are along on this but here where I live Interstate battery stores will make custom battery cables for you. Those marine batteries usually come with both types of terminals on + & - but you would want a cranking battery if your planning on starting with this battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Marine terminals arent really made for autos. Your a ton better off soldering terminals to the end and making custom cables! Those marine terminals look really cheesy and the wire is connected through a crappy eyelet through a stud and nut into the terminal making a shitty connection. A real soldered on 2 gauge battery cable with no other crap hanging off it will really keep corrosion down!

Ford sold the truck with soldered on terminals for a reason! They didnt sell it to you with MARINE battery terminals. This isnt a boat with studs on the battery. This is a HIGH current top post terminal that needs a HIGH quality, connection to prevent corrosion...
All connection will be soldered on and connected to the battery post via the wing nut.

I have had a few boats that were prolly pulling more amps than my bronco will ever pull. I never had a connection problem or corrosion issue, of course they were never in the ocean.
Thanks for the tip though.
 

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mine has been set up like this for 6 years now probly. i've got a 12k mile marker (super inefficient, it pulls something like 500 amps). i've stalled the winch running on these terminals. never a problem. on it's second set of batteries.
 

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So some of you guys are telling me that you'd rather have a wingut marine terminal as your top post terminal instead of a soldered on battery terminal?

I dont understand how a marine terminal with eyelet is better. It has to transfer all the power through the battery post, through the terminal, into that little stud and through the eyelet of the cable. That is no where near as good as a 2 gauge cable shoved into a terminal, soldered and heatshrunk, and then attached directly to the top battery post, leaving NO exposed metal except the terminal itself. Marine style corrodes a lot, leaves a 12+ volt live wingnut to arc onto the hood, and look terrible. The wingnut can also back off.
 

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I'd prefer a terminal setup as well, but I'm sure the marines will do fine. I didn't run them on my boat though.
 

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I prefer the crimp ons instead of the soldered ends... I've seen a handful of soldered cables break at the termination due to people using too much solder and vibration working it's magic. But I also have access to more crimpers than I'll ever need. Then again, I also prefer crimp ons and compression connectors because that's what we use in switchgear and transformers in every commercial and industrial job I've worked on.
 
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