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Picked up an 1990 FSB. Have a mechanic doing a ton of various work to it, trying to get it 100% solid for daily driver/offroad.

Few things I'm having a hard time finding and could use help (yes I have searched on forum and google)

1. The interior Trim around rear shell (long curved, cover up where shell bolts into bed) what are these pieces actually called, and where can I find new?

2. On my transfer case shifter. The pattern shows a pretty straight 2wd on top and 4H below etc. But I can shift it top left and Top Right. It feels like 2 different positions, both seem the same (i see no difference in driving) But when I shift it to Top right corner it seems to lock in place a little more solid. Is this supposed to be the case?

3. The fuse panel cover under driver side dash, can you find these new? what about the little round screw in things that attach it?

Im sure Ill have more questions, but these two are bugging me the most right now. Any help would be very appreciated.
 

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yo Frozen,
WELCOME!

1. Camper Top Trim Parts Break-Out Diagram w/nomenclature; "...78-91 use 17 self-drilling oval-head 1-1/4" phillips screws with captive countersunk washers to retain all the trim pieces. 6 on each long trim, 2 on each short trim, & 1 on the small center joint cover. 92-96 use 5 screws as above for the short trim & cover, 6 color-matched pushpins on each long trim, & 2 plastic pushpins on each rear corner trim..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/282491
See also:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895154
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/724184
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Bedside Panel Parts Break-Out Diagram in 80-91
Source: by HawkRdr at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/22447
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2.
Probably have the Borg Warner 1356 Xfer Case; Borg Warner Identification; "...The model number is cast into the rear housing, and sometimes stamped into an ID tag on a tail housing bolt.
1356 Identification Tag pic in a 90

Source: by Wolfchant

Borg Warner (BW) and New Process Gear (NP) identification tags:
http://www.venturestruckparts.com/?main_page=transfer_case_identification


If so, I THINK the shift pattern is same as the 96 Bronco's 1356;
From top to bottom of knob;
Here is a pic by Steve83


1356 Manual Shift Wear; "...Manually shifted units usually exhibit wear on the selector shaft in two areas (figure 5). Shaft wear in any form will make the unit disengage or have very sloppy shifting. The star shaped end of the shaft where it mates with the shift cam is also prone to wear. Borg Warner released an updated shift cam with an Allen screw to tighten up the fit and retain the manual lever. Look at the section of the manual lever that rides in the case, which is also subject to wear from dirt and two dissimilar metals in close contact...Always inspect the bore of the case for excessive wear. Figure 6 shows the bore is worn over size and will no longer hold the selector shaft in position. The only way to fix this is to do some machining and sleeve the bore, or to replace the case altogether..."
Source: by Mike W via web.archive.org

1356 Manual Shift, No Movement or Neutral Position Tip/Saver Spacer & pic; "...Many 1987-1995 Ford F series 4x4 trucks and full size Bronco owners with 1356 manual shift transfer cases commonly complain of a "no movement" or an occasional neutral condition. This condition is usually caused by the linkage wearing the transfer case at its point of contact (1356 manual shift models only). Sonnax offers a case saver spacer 36605-01. This case saver spacer goes between the shift selector cam and the case and requires no special tools to install. The spacer moves the cam closer to the shift fork, thus preventing and/or eliminating: 1) one or both shift forks from becoming disengaged from the shift cam, 2) "slop"from the linkage caused by a worn linkage bore in front case half. This item is a specific size/thickness not commonly found in ordinary flat washers. This repair is quick, easy and a lot less expensive than repairing or replacing the case. Model: 36605-01..."
Source: by transmichigan.com



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3. Best bet is from a yard queen
For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.hollanderparts.com/
Select All Parts
year, etc, then FORD TRUCK

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or
http://www.copartfinder.com
Has Vehicle Pics!

http://www.car-parts.com/

http://www.picknpull.com
This is a Company name w/yard locations in various states

for obsolete parts by Ford pn:
http://www.partsvoice.com/
http://www.rearcounter.com
http://www.greensalescompany.com

Or e bay, etc.
Some go for about $15.00 depending upon color and condition;
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=87+88+89+90+91+Ford+Truck+F150+F250+F350+Bronco+Lower+Dash+Fuse+Panel+Cover+Red
 

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Bronco Snob
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You, my friend, are a great candidate for a Junk Yard vulture. Hit your local u pulls..and get used to it :thumbup
 

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Junkyards are your friends in the BKO world.

The trim pieces are hard to find, but if you have any metal working skills, or know someone who does sheetmetal work, you can make your own trim panels.

Not sure about the transfer case shifting, since I have pushbutton shift.

The fuse panel and fasteners are readily available at any parts yard that has the same year F150's lying around. Pretty much everything from the cab forward is the same as on the F150 of the same generation, so getting to know your local junkyards will go a long way towards completing your projects.
 

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Dang i actually just tossed the trim you need in the dumpster at work friday- i gutted mine out. i put them on craigslist for $1 and no hits. im going to run out there and see if it been picked up yet? still good in shape Tan color.
 

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they are gone ! sorry i would have shipped them no charge if they were there , one bronco to another. I need to keep my extra stuff for these situations. You should be able to find them at a salvage yard no problem.
 

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For the transfer case shifter, all the way forward is 2H, pull straight back and there will be a click, that's 4H. Push the shifter knob down and pull back to go into 4L. It sounds like there is wear in your shifter. Mine doesn't move side to side and yours shouldn't either. If your bronco has high miles (200k) consider pulling the transfer case and checking the oil pump stay arm, it tends to wear through the case and this mileage is about where problems start to pop up.


IDK what's up with the trim pieces. Either some trucks didn't come with them or people remove and break/lose them when they pull the top but I see alot of trucks without them. The 90 didn't have them or a headliner on the topper but my 94 has both.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
wow what a wealth of info, Love this forum!

My mechanic keeps saying we need to go hit a junkyard. Im in a smaller town, but he said about an hour away is a really huge junkyard that he wants to take me too. Ill have to hope for best.
The shifter thing is a weird deal. You can shift Top right, or top left, and both feel like they lock into place in different spots. Top right corner feels tighter then top left. BOth seem to run same.
 

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My 1990 Bronco Borg Warner 1356 Manual Transfer Case (typically available between 1987-1996) requires that I push to the left and pull straight back to Neutral, and then pull straight back and push to the right to lock in 4L. No pushing down on the shift handle required.

I am thinking that the Borg Warner 1345 (typically available between 1980-1989) has a straight pull back pattern for all positions and may require a "push down" to enter a neutral shift plate detent.

Since the OP has a BW 1356 tilt mechanism, maybe that is what he is feeling to the left and right of 4H. Could be sticking, have bad linkage or be normal. I can try mine later and let you know. Frozenpeaz, look above your sun visor for transfer case instructions, if the sticker is still there


1990 Ford Bronco Borg Warner 1356 Manual Transfer Case Shift Pattern
 

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yo, Good info Seattle!

and for our new friend;


T case failed its more than likely because of the oil pump and it breaks the 4 low range fork so you will need all these peices . I got my kit from a guy named Bob at riverside gear he has listings on ebay . The kit is very high quality and only $129 shipped for the low range hub ( which to get from ford will cost you over $600 because they only sell it in a gear set ) the low range fork , complete oil pump rebuild , complete seal kit which will work with the slip in yoke or the flange , Just all the pieces you need to fix a failure caused by the oil pump
Source: by BLADE262US at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/6117-borg-warner-1356/


1356 Manual Shift Rebuild in a 90
Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/139/13379

1356 Manual Shift Rebuild Tools in a 91; "...50 torx, a 7/16 socket.. 8mm wrench, some snap ring pliers with long teeth, a few small screw drivers, seal puller, punch and hammer, 1.25" socket with impact gun, silicone..."
Source: by DcSkater602 (Steve) at FSB http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66992&page=2

and fyi;
4 Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 by Ford via http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=35193
 

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If so, I THINK the shift pattern is same as the 96 Bronco's 1356; From top to bottom of knob;
Here is a pic by Steve83

miesk5, I am starting to think that there was a change in the Borg Warner 1356 shift pattern at about 1992. My 1990 BW 1356 Manual shows the "tilt" pattern where steves 1992 BW 1356 Manual shows the "push down" pattern.

The BorgWarner 1356 Manual/Automatic came to the Bronco in 1987, with some left over Borg Warner 1345 units still being used up through 1989.
I have seen the "push down" style advertised for the 1992-1996 Bronco - hence my idea that 1992 was a shift pattern change year for the BW 1356.

I even have that same "push down" pattern in my 1994 BW 1356 Manual in a factory 1994 F250.


The Borg Warner 1345 Manual (approx. 1980-1989) had the following shift pattern:



The Borg Warner 1356 Manual (approx. 1987-1991) had the following shift pattern:



The Borg Warner 1356 Manual (approx. 1992-1996) had the following shift pattern:



The bottom line is the OPs 1990 should not have the "push down" style that steve pictured nor what is in your 1996. He most like has the same 1990 "tilt" version that I have. And mine does not tilt left or right in 2H. It follows a pattern downward, then to the left and to the right. This tells me he may have bent the linkage or shift plate by incorrectly attempting transfer case shifts. Now I am guessing without a definitive answer, only by objective findings that I see in my research.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@Seattle
yes you are correct, my shifter has the handle on it, and its NOT the push down. To be clear on what my shifter does.. I can not go straight right or left there is no play In between.. I can go Top Right or Top left but I have to come down and over to either side to lock it in. It feels just like a standard H pattern shifter. If I "shift" it top left the shifter stick itself feels more solid in place, but I hear another rattle. If I keep it top Right the stick itself is looser but less rattle.. I do have a problem with a bad vibration at low idle, just around 1000-1500 under a load.. I wonder if this is connected.

I did read a link on the vibration under load problem and printed out for my mechanic to check over.
 
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