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Discussion Starter #1
Cracked the t-case wheeling this weekend and pulled it out after work today. I thought that the rear drive shaft bottomed out and cracked it at first, since it's 3/4-1" shorter than stock after the sas. But looking at where the crack is maybe the front drive shaft bottomed out. I'm not sure though so hopefully someone help.





 

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So you cracked your t-case...I suppose I don't understand what you're asking. Replacing the case is a given, and obviously you suspect your drive shafts are too long, so you already know that you need to flex out the suspension and measure them. Is there a question there that I'm missing?
 

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Weld it ???? I thought they weren't made out of aluminum???
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So you cracked your t-case...I suppose I don't understand what you're asking. Replacing the case is a given, and obviously you suspect your drive shafts are too long, so you already know that you need to flex out the suspension and measure them. Is there a question there that I'm missing?
Has anybody seen a t-case crack like that? It seems like an odd way to crack from the drive shaft. The skid plate was there to protect it from catching on a rock.
 

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Has anybody seen a t-case crack like that? It seems like an odd way to crack from the drive shaft. The skid plate was there to protect it from catching on a rock.
I'd have to guess there was some unbalanced stress going on there somewhere, i.e. d-shaft took a hit or the mounting flange got loose....
 

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Has anybody seen a t-case crack like that? It seems like an odd way to crack from the drive shaft. The skid plate was there to protect it from catching on a rock.
yup, I did the same thing, I thought also that the drive shaft was to long but after discussing with the guy who made my front drive shaft and remeasuring I found out it was not caused by the driveshaft, never did find out what caused the crack. $60 at pick a part and I had a new t/case.
 

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It might have cracked from forces from the inside and not the DS. That crack is small how did you even see it??when it was in the Bronco.
 

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It might have cracked from forces from the inside and not the DS. That crack is small how did you even see it??when it was in the Bronco.
on mine I noticed a leak, so I pulled it out, completely resealed the two halves and new outer seals, put it back in, filled with fluid and the fawkin thing still leaked, so I followed the leak and found the cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yup, I did the same thing, I thought also that the drive shaft was to long but after discussing with the guy who made my front drive shaft and remeasuring I found out it was not caused by the driveshaft, never did find out what caused the crack. $60 at pick a part and I had a new t/case.
Thanks for the info! I didn't want to modify the drive shafts unless it was absolutely necessary.

It might have cracked from forces from the inside and not the DS. That crack is small how did you even see it??when it was in the Bronco.
It was pretty easy to spot where the fluid was dripping from after removing the skid plate. Just cleaned it up, put some sealant on to slow down the leak a little bit, and made the 100 mile ride home
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Picked another t-case today at the u-pull. It's a bw1356 instead of a np208, and is 1/2 of an inch longer than the 208. Since the driveshaft is around 1" shorter after the sas, I think I'll have to move the rear axle back a little.

 

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The NP208 case is aluminum,However with the correct gun you can weld aluminum.Just like steel.It just takes a special gun and aluminum wire
Harbor freight sells and aluminum gun for less that 100$.Welding aluminum is harder than steel but any good welder can do it
Is you case leaking?
Mine has had a crack for
years and does not leak.Just depends on how far the crack is pushed into the case,And from looking at yours I bet it wont leak,and if you enjoy welding as much as I do just buy the right gun and lay a bead over the crack
 
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