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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I am new and not sure if this is the right place to post but I am at a loss. I bought an 89 bronco XLT 351w 5.8 about a year ago. Before the purchase it ran but needed a jump to get going, it idled high so I figured it needed a little TLC. However on the day I picked it up it stopped starting even with a jump so it got trailered home. I bought a new battery and fucked up, I put it in backwards. I float charged the old battery, replaced the starter solenoid and positive cable and terminal (both cables were black hence my idiot mistake) as well as the starter. The lights all work, door chime and gauges come on, but again crank and no start. This time I notice the fuel pumps aren't making noise. I replaced the spark plugs, air filter, crankcase filter (hose was disconnected so I assumed that is where the high idle came from), low pressure fuel pump, high pressure fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay. Tried again, no pressure at the rail but I can hear them come on. Next fuel regulator and discovered the fuel accumulater but can't find a replacement anywhere so I did a bypass. Now there is pressure at the rail but still crank and no start. It does start on starter fluid. I checked all the fuses under the dash and they all look good, i swapped the new relay over to the EEC relay but no change. I don't know if I can check codes because I have been disconnecting the battery to float charge it while I'm not working on it. Is this an ECU issue or other electrical something? How would I test that? The previous owner told me that sometimes the steering wheel had to be wiggled to start it. Any help would be extremely appreciated, thanks!
 

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You can pull KOEO codes.

Search for how to clean and check your IAC.

Also, see what the actual pressure is of your fuel at the rail. If you don't have a gauge, you can borrow one from autozone or other chain stores, with a deposit. It should be 35-45 psi.
 

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"The previous owner told me that sometimes the steering wheel had to be wiggled to start it."

If it starts reliably with starter fluid, it is probably not related to anything inside the steering column. OTOH the ignition switch is inside the column. That could cause electrical issues. So be sure that your CEL light lights up when you turn the key to on, and you hear the pumps prime. You may want to check that you hear BOTH pumps prime, not just one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The engine light does come on with key turned on, I'll check for codes and look into the IAC as well as making sure both pumps are coming on and the pressure. If one of the pumps isn't coming on is there a way to test if the part is faulty vs. a wiring issue? I also asked a friend who suggested checking the crankcase sensor. I'll report back with more info.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Getting fuel to the rail, and getting the "correct" fuel pressure to the rail are two very different things.

Until you put a fuel pressure guage on the rail & verify that you have the correct fuel pressure, there is not much point in even trying to start it. If you don't have 35-45psi it's not gonna start.

I've seen plenty of "no start" that had fuel at the rail, but not enough pressure for the injectors to work, & you saying it runs on starting fluid, tells me it's a fuel pressure issue, but it needs to be verified before moving forward.
 

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Yo Millie,
Welcome to our Big Bronco community!
Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition key through all positions. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding.
The ignition key should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch
actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.
The ignition switch can be adjusted by loosening the mounting screws, and sliding it up or down.

Ignition Switch Logic Test; Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) @
View attachment 167054

Battery Accidentally Jumped <:
Check fusible links attached to starter relay on passenger inner fender liner;
Insect Blue fusible link N that is is circuit to provide Keep Alive Power (KA PWR) to the EEC IV, aka computer.
Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Engineering


Gas Automotive tire Rim Vehicle Automotive exterior

Gesture Font Screenshot Communication Device Bumper

In an 89 by member shift1313 (Matt)
Most fusible links have melted/charred insulation when they burn out.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness.
Motor vehicle Font Engineering Wire Cable


As member jermil01 once advised another member who hooked up a battery <, "Doubt he fried the EEC. Pretty sure it is protected by a fuse or fusible link."


■□■
Here is the 1989 Ford Bronco EVTM, Emissions (yellowish/red book cover) & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @
1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Slow scrolling, so download for faster viewing and to see the table of contents, the search feature, etc.

1989 Ford Bronco Dealer Brochure

1989 Bronco Lubricant Specifications by Ford via Gary


As you did for any Bronco questions, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members).

Fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. See How to add your Signature @ Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum by BigBlue 94

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Find time to participate and Vote in our current Full-Size of the Month Contest & later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing.
Also see the prizes!
Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Koeo codes are
21 ECT out of test range
23 TP sensor out of test range
24 ACT sensor out of test range
11 system pass
The IAC reads 9.4 on the 200ohms
The blue fuseable link insulation crumbled
 

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you could check to see if you are getting voltage to both ends of that fuseable link. If you get it on the soliniod side, but not the other end, it is burn out and needs to be replaced.

Those codes may be related to no voltage, so the first thing to check is that burnt fuseable link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay I replaced the fuse able link, it sounds like the injectors are coming on now and I checked the fuel pressure and it is at 41 key on and holds 35 key off. It still has the same codes as before but it sounds like it's nearly catching now. I also got a Haynes manual for the wiring diagram to see if there might be other fuses preventing the koeo test from completing. I saw others tucked by the battery but didn't see any that looked obviously burnt.
 

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There are a few grounds that are important.
The left and right side of the upper radiator support, and the one near the driver's side hood hinge, either on the fender or fire wall.

edit: bad grounds can give a low voltage and make those sensor readings out of test range.

edit #2: you are doing a good job. Keep at it you are almost there! :)
 

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1990 EB, 5.0
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The grounds are definitely the first step. The next thing I'd do, before replacing the ECU, is the Ignition control unit(ICU). On an 89' it is attached to the distributor. When it gets old and broken it can start to pull away from the distributor leading to starting issues. Easy to replace.
 

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Yo Millie,
21 ECT out of test range
23 TP sensor out of test range
24 ACT sensor out of test range
11 system pass conflicts with above codes, retry Diagnostic Trouble Codes Test
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just got back from work and haven't been out to look again yet but I got some more information from the previous owner. She also said that sometimes it wouldn't start after short time periods of running (ex. would start again after parked for an hour or longer but had to leave it running to run into the gas station or get gas) she said it was because of an ignition coil issue. Also sometimes you would have to pull the key back a tad bit for the blinkers and blower motor to work once started. That sounds like the above mentioned spring return in the ignition lock cylinder to me and I'll look more into that.
As for the codes I went through them 4 times, the first time it ran the KOEO codes it seemed super weird (I also may have read it wrong)
Test 1 (21,23,23,1,1,51,5,21,21,3,23,24,1,11,11)
Test 2
(21,23,24,21,23,24)
Test 3
(21,23,24,21,23,24,1,11,1)
Test 4 after replacing fuse able link
(21,23,24,21,23,24,11)
 

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I agree with miesk5. Something there is wrong.
Clean your grounds like I suggested, and try to start. Those components get their ground through the EEC.
If that fails then pull codes again.

Next would be to pull the EEC itself, and look for damage within.
miesk5 can point you to a thread that shows pictures of leaking capacitors with in the EEC
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay, I cleaned the grounds (from block to firewall, firewall to hood, the one by the radiator and the one on the fender driver's side. I checked the ground straps for continuity off vehicle to make sure there weren't breaks under the tape and they are good. I tried to start again and it sounds even closer to catching but not quite. I ran codes again and got more weird reads
Test 1) 21,23,21,23,53
Test 2) 21,23,23,21,23,24,1,53,22,2
Test 3) 21,23,24,21,23,24,1,53,53
Next I'll be pulling the EEC as suggested and do a pin test on the TFI. Thank you again for everyone's help!!
 

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If not in the grounds I mentioned above, I think:
Either you are reading the codes incorrectly,
OR your EEC is damaged.

edit: taking another look, code 53 TPS voltage maximum voltage.
The EEC should send 5 volts. If it is more than that I'd suspect the EEC
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I didn't see the message in time and pulled the EEC 😅. I have it opened up right now but I'm not seeing anything wrong with it, nothing looks corroded and I don't see any breaks. I don't want to wiggle anything for fear of breaking it. Is there a test for these other than looking at it before I try putting it back in and looking elsewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I could also record the codes and possibly figure out how to post a link if it's helpful but it would take me a little while to do
 
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