[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Works great, was able to put stock length stops back in. I also like the way it looks, though that was not my main reason for doing this. Also moved the stock aluminum rivet wheels off the huge tire rod ends, so that was a plus too. They usally rubbed a little though it was no big deal as only use them to go in/out of shop.

On to either front end rebuild or engine swap next.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Took the front end apart last night, no surprises. Everything looked fine.
The solid super joints are in amazingly good shape, considering the use I have put on them.
The play I thought was in the u-joints, was actually in the worn spider gears in the diff and also some in the Warn hubs.
Cleaning up the bearing caps tonight and few other small things.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Axle seals in place, Diff bearing cap studs installed. I also got all the races and stuff removed last night. Installed the ring gear on the TrueTrac
Have the carrier bearings off the old carrier so I can get the shim stack up of the parts that where in there.
With Spicer parts going back in I expect I should be able to get it very close on the first try when the new gears go in.
Hopefully be able to get the diff installed and the run the first gear pattern check tonight, had to stop as the good calipers and indicator are at work.

The balljoints are in very good shape with no play. Gonna hold off on doing those for now as I feel would be just doing it to do it. My other axle needs ball joints so not a big deal... This should put me a day ahead not having to do them.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

As expected the old shim Stack ##'s were near perfect with the new gears and truetrac.
Checking backlash, .008, right in the middle of the spec of .006-.010

Pattern looked good so off the setup bearings came and the real bearings went on and the diff back in. You can see the cap studs here too. Putting it togethor I thought it felt much more solid then the bolts. Maybe my imagination, maybe not. Time will tell.

I did also de-burr the bearing caps and some the nastier spots on the housing. Did not take very long, though maybe not needed, I feel better knowing they are smooth now.
Waiting on some small parts to come in now, if they come in should be able to finish up over weekend.
Have had these for awhile, will be nice to see them actually go into the truck. This is the other reason I went to the effort of making it so can have full steering back again.

The Moser Max Shafts and Yukon super joints are all still in very good condition. Very little wear, Installed since 2007/2008, Will work great re-purposed in the other axle.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

New speedo gear for the 91, got it closer. May go to the 20 tooth but its within 2 now, it was 6 off before. I think it got changed at some point by a previous owner. Truck also has different springs on the front so who knows
Have bunch of little parts coming today to put more of the front end together. Spindle studs, nuts, gaskets, etc...
Moser axles, in good shape still.

 

[d_rock]

Any tips for someone setting up a D44 for the first time?
I expect I'll be doing mine later this year, going from 3.50 to 4.56 gears to get more use out of 4th and 5th. Planning to pull a suitable diff + ring + pinion from a donor axle in the next week or so.
Having only really worked on 9's, I wish the D44 had a 3rd member I could build up and swap in.

BTW jealous of those RCV axles... just not in my "budget" right now. Looking forward to hearing how you like them.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Any tips for someone setting up a D44 for the first time?

Set aside enough time to take your time. Also I got a set of HF race drivers that made this project a lot nicer

Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set 10 Pc.

10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set

www.harborfreight.com

Case spreader would make this job easier, but I did this one with out it. Being as this 3rd would flex different with the additon of the truss, didn't want to risk it. Especially with it still installed in truck.
I would also get some bolts that match the cap bolts, as to use as guide pins. I simply left the covers on my studs, but this made it lot easier to do by myself. I bought a set of setup bearings for the same reason, with no real press at home.
Biggest thing is to take your time, though...

Thanks on the axles, biggest reason I got them was their ability to turn and not bind. I have been lock to lock several times out in the sand, and while I didn't have an issue (though could feel it being not smooth) with the old setup, I had the stops set to keep it from turning as far as it does now.

 

[youngDUMP]

If bindless turning is what you’re after with the RCVs then you’ll be extremely happy. Not to mention supa dupa strong and lifetime warranty. It’s a no brainer if you can save up the pennies.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

RCV's are installed, was not all that different then normal axle install just a couple extra steps
Also put on New Spindles, with WH solid spindle bushings instead of normal needle bearing setup.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Rotors, bearings, all new and now installed. As well as the diff cover. Fresh paint since they where new, They at least look good for pictures, I doubt will stay that nice for long though. So, store was out of enough 5/16s SHCS in black oxide so 4 of them ended up being chrome. Though it was an accident, I kind of like how it looks.

Yukon hubs are up next. These very much look like the old stock Ford hubs, will see how I like them. I still have the Warns that came off it that I can use too.

Also swapped out the trans mount on the 91, Old one was all spongey and not great.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Tie rods and drag link back in (not pictured) All that is left is gear oil and check the pinion nut torque before putting the d-shaft back on. And also hooking up the diff cover side of my stabilizer, its easier to fill diff without it in way.
Hardcore hubs installed without much issue. I really like the spiral lock ring instead of the normal snap ring or spring clip that a normal lockout uses on the hub side. They look awesome too. Dial is super smooth for now, hopefully they stay that way. Plan on getting the 30 spline inners for my warns to have a backup plan if these start acting weird. Have read several things about the dana 60 version, not as much info out there for the dana 44 hubs.

Really make these wheels look like crap

So other then doing little bit of testing on this to make sure the diff works, the 429 is next on my list.

 

[Doosenberry]

I'm interested in seeing how the hubs work out for you. I had them on my list of wants when I was having my axles regeared, but figured it was an unnecessary expense as mine work great as they are knock on wood. They do look awesome though!

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

I will be sure to post if they give me any issues. In all fairness, I never had a problem out of my Warn Premiums when they were on here, either (since 2007). If I do have an issue, I believe it will be that they will stick locked. Should just be a simple take it apart; clean it up, re-grease, and put back togethor though.
The inner 30 spline piece for the Warns (to run them with RCV shafts) was little over half cost for these Yukons, was the other reason I made the switch.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Finished up the front end, took it around the block. Put it in 4x and all that good stuff.
Really dig the smoothness that the front end has with the RCV stuff. Also everthing else is super tight now too, drives really good.
The extra trun angle puts this really close but it clears, this is worst case right here.

Random out of the garage again pic

So with that finally, FINALLY... this is the next thing on the list. Got it out last night from storage and setup the dizzy and spun it over few times by hand

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

much better, found that I did have some adjustment left in the stabilizer mounting location. It may have moved over time, might spot weld it onto the steering link this time.

This will work more then fine, and isn't bottom out or over extended in either direction.

No gear oil on the floor after a few days, so I am happy with that.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

UNforseen issue means the fuel tank gets to come out before the 429 goes in.
But that is ok, as I'd rather not make that run run lean on accident.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

So to start on that rear bumper is off. Kind of like this look but not super functional.

This is an old BigMike Bumper I bought off of here several years ago. If you even know who that is you have been on here at least a decade. It used to have a spare tire mount on it, which I kept thinking may go back to it some day. Its heavy duty

That HD-ness also means its a tank, and wieghs a lot ( I bet 175lbs at least) I do not think this one will be going back on. I have been contemplating putting my good stock bumpers on this one, or doing up a set of simplier tube bumpers for this one, much like on the '91 F-150.
Will see once I get the tank, and rust frame seciton fixes completed, May have made up my mind by then

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Tank is out. That actually was not that horrible.
Found that the pickup was broke so is likely the reason why below 1/4 tank I would have issues off road...
Likely to fix that with a hydramat for now, until I decide on a fuel cell.

 

[outlawbob]

Brandon
truck is looking good, you amaze me the work you have done.
You know any one or where i might get a factory y-pipe exhaust

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Thanks...
I do not really know on the stock exhaust... I have never worked on a 78/79, or the truck version, that kept those parts.
I have always just used a couple of u-bends or j-bends and sectioned and cut then welded up my own with a nice transition piece.
The one on my 78 is made as per the above, 3" from the collectors to a 4" out single y collector. Currently is then reduced down to 3" from there but will be full 4" out to the back with the 429.