So get to replace the inner axle seals again, should be fun. Long tube side started to leak.
Also have hydromat and need items to plumb it to the stock fuel sender on the way, should be here tomorrow.
Just going to run tubing from the mat to stock fuel pick up with clamps. I will double clamp it. The most correct way would be a compression sytle hardline adapter to some an hose, but I do not see keeping the stock tank long enough to spend the time/money to do it that way.
It is no wonder that I had issues below 1/4 tank with my broken stock stuff though. While sending until out I finally was able to calibrate the speedhut fuel gauge to the sender too, been guessing for a long time.
More fittings needed for hydramat install. Will post up what was needed when I get it done.
Also now have a set of frame re-inforcement plates coming the fix the rear section on this Bronco.
More fittings needed for hydramat install. Will post up what was needed when I get it done.
Also now have a set of frame re-inforcement plates coming the fix the rear section on this Bronco.
More details on that to come... They will inset into the stock rear frame section about from the middle of the tank rear-ward, effectively doubling the thickness. If you have looked the rear frame is flexy on these especially where the rear shackles mounts bolt to.
A solid rear bumper helps a bunch, but this should be little better.
This will fix my rear frame section under the rear most body mount. Will also brace the area right behind the rear shackle hangers. The frame under the body mount is gone, as is the mount now. Just going to cut this part off.
Adam at Deuling Design – Metal Parts, Panels, Signs & Fab took care of me on these. Will have several 1/2" bolts and some welds holding them into the stock frame. New cross member for the rear gas tank straps and to keep the rails even, also in the works when these go in.
Was this issue the one you found prior to installing the 429 or was this another issue that popped up along the way? Seems par for the course when it comes to these old rigs to find one thing after another when you start digging int them.
Those look hefty.
Was this issue the one you found prior to installing the 429 or was this another issue that popped up along the way? Seems par for the course when it comes to these old rigs to find one thing after another when you start digging int them.
They are 1/4" thick. I knew the rear was rusty there since buying the truck. I did not realize how bad until I knocked out the bushings (or what was left of). I took the rear bumper off and got to looking at best way to fix it, and this is what I came up with. I originally was gonna just weld some plate in there. The cage has been holding the body on this truck for a long time, especially the rear.
The hyrdamat install is a side of having to take the tank down to fix this. Though the fuel pickup fitler has been missing for some time too, so this should be a good deal here. Suck to make that 429 run lean just because of a crappy pickup in the tankt
Mission Creep more or less... The 429 is still waiting to get install, but I'd rather fix this right before it has real power in it too. Realistically shooting for April to have the 429 in and running.
I agree on these old truck keep needing more and more, but I like em anyways. Even this rusty pile of parts. Maybe move all the cool stuff to a clean one 1 day...
Started on the frame last night. I just cut the top of it off from the body mount back. It was mostly crap anyways. Also removed the shackle mounts and such too.
Looks like it should work out well on what I had planned though.
Also got this in yesterday.
Looks very nice should be good addition to the tool collection.
They inlay into the stock frame. So more like new rails due to the rear most section being rusty. But a little further forward they will be just a reinforcement. Think like a semi truck frame and how they extend/fix those, at least that is where I got the idea from to do it this way. If my truck was non rusty all they would do is add thickness to the stock rails.
I have some 1-3/4" DOM tubing picking up next week to make the new rear most cross member, along with some interlocking roll bar clamps as to make it removeable. Likely to also use that as the front most point of a 2" reciever too. Eventually there will be a few tubes connecting the rear cage plate to the rear cross members too.
Parts list for hydramat install:
Fuel Hose DAC-80161
Hydramat HLY-16-105
90 Degree Fitting 3/8 SUM-220179
Lock Ring RNB-579-003
I used fuel injector style hose clamps too, I had those on hand
I cut the sending unit pickup about 1" from the sender to get enough room to have the hose hit the mat in right spot. Should have something like this, also tweaked the float arm a little just to make sure more then enough clearance. May have changed where it reads empty slightly but that is ok as will be slightly sooner.
You will want to no hook up the hose until you have the mat in the tank, with just the 90 sticking out
Here is what I ended up with in the tank. Its towards the back, centered, should work good considering I mostly do dunes
Have both frame repair/stiffener plates bolted in now too, so far I can tell its much more solid even just bolted in. Will get welded in at key spots too.
Those are Threat Motorsports shackle hangers if you where wondering.
Parts list for hydramat install:
Fuel Hose DAC-80161
Hydramat HLY-16-105
90 Degree Fitting 3/8 SUM-220179
Lock Ring RNB-579-003
I used fuel injector style hose clamps too, I had those on hand
I cut the sending unit pickup about 1" from the sender to get enough room to have the hose hit the mat in right spot. Should have something like this, also tweaked the float arm a little just to make sure more then enough clearance. May have changed where it reads empty slightly but that is ok as will be slightly sooner.
You will want to no hook up the hose until you have the mat in the tank, with just the 90 sticking out
Here is what I ended up with in the tank. Its towards the back, centered, should work good considering I mostly do dunes
Have both frame repair/stiffener plates bolted in now too, so far I can tell its much more solid even just bolted in. Will get welded in at key spots too.
Those are Threat Motorsports shackle hangers if you where wondering.
The first one I tried to install, did not go very well as did not shorten the pickup tube enough. Those mats are vary hard to remove once installed and it got damaged upon removal. At least I was not going to risk running it the way it was.
They need to make an install dummy mat that is only $5. You do you test fitting with that, then put the real one on at the end.
Rear frame plates welded in. I also stopped and got needed parts to make the rear cross member to get the fuel tank put back into the truck.
For now I am just going to cut the stock bracket down, weld it to the tubing cross member and put everything back in place. Eventually going to run a fuel cell so this only needs to be functional for this season. I got the stock cut down piece sand blasted today so it will be ready to start working with tonight.
I really want to end up with something like this, eventually. Though much less deep as I am sticking to the 20-25 gallon range as to not stick down so far. Ford Bronco Gas Tank Skid Plate | Solo Motorsports
Do you run a high risk of hitting your tank on the dunes? Not knocking you for wanting a fortress around your tank, just genuinely curious given your off-roading of choice. I've already tagged my JBG skid plate pretty good on some lava rock, so I've gained a little unwanted experience as to what it'll take to dent mine.
Do you run a high risk of hitting your tank on the dunes? Not knocking you for wanting a fortress around your tank, just genuinely curious given your off-roading of choice. I've already tagged my JBG skid plate pretty good on some lava rock, so I've gained a little unwanted experience as to what it'll take to dent mine.
In the dunes, likely not a super huge issue with the stock tank. I have only hit my 25 gallon once even on the little bit of trails I have done. That tubing style mount/skid combo that Solo has I think is great idea to mount a fuel cell, as they need a supporting stucture anyways. The extra beefy JBG skid looks like a solid place to start as well, its been on my short list too. The price would make me not feel to bad about cutting it up a bit.
Ended up adding some gussets. I think I like where this is at now. Very much noticable differance. The tail gate shuts the best it ever has since I have owned this Bronco
Spent some time trying to mock up the tubes to tie the cage plate to this cross member. Have good idea of what to do there now as well.
Likely makes more sense now with the tank in why I kept the center of the old cross member. Fit back in great. Little tighter then it once was but that is not a bad thing. Likely will come back out 1 more time to paint everything
Hey all,
1986 XLT with 140k on it from California. 351w, C6, NP209, TTB 44, Ford 9, stock 3.56 gearing.
I’ve been research lifts for my 86. I used to do some serious wheeling in my old CJ here in Maine. Most of the trails here are real tight and while I struggle with the thought of...
So I'm going to start this thread for my 85 Bronco. I've done a lot to it, but lots more to come. I bought it in 2015 after my namesake, Bigblue94 was burnt to a crisp. I found it on eBay, and it was only 2 hours from me. It was mine for 6500. Lifted, locked, and restored (all around 2003)...
Hello all; new to the Bronco scene, but not new to the car modding world.
I was in the mustang scene for the last 15yrs but they became to much of a garage queen/dust collector and hard to justify to myself keeping them with two small children that couldn’t ride in them.
It all started with a...
Getting my all my build thread info into one thread - since I hope to God I'm not buying anymore Bronco's anytime soon.
So last Summer - I'd been on the lookout for something to throw together for my son in college. He's got a 2WD '11 Silverado, and while it's been a good truck, he tends to...
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