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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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Discussion Starter #442
Getting closer. Rad back in place.

Also reinstalled the first trans cooler and the rad over-flow
 

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I use v-bands on my exhaust also makes it ez to remove when needed. My next project is the oil pan gasket leak. Finally fixed the trans pan leak. 7 of the bolts were to long causing them to bottom out but not seal the gasket. 2 in front under bell housing, 2 right side under module, 3 back center and left corner.
Hot here 108
Stay cool. I was wondering how are you posting pictures on here
thanks
Bob
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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6,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #444
I use v-bands on my exhaust also makes it ez to remove when needed. My next project is the oil pan gasket leak. Finally fixed the trans pan leak. 7 of the bolts were to long causing them to bottom out but not seal the gasket. 2 in front under bell housing, 2 right side under module, 3 back center and left corner.
Hot here 108
Stay cool. I was wondering how are you posting pictures on here
thanks
Bob
I use the gallery on the forum. It lets you multi upload and seems fast. Hopefully it stays good.

Made a tip today and installed the painted exhaust. Its removable so I can change my mind later which I am sure I will.

Waiting on a few parts I ordered to finish things up. Like the spring for the lower rad hose. Looking like maybe see what this sounds like over this weekend.
 

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78 & 92
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Discussion Starter #445
Lower radiator hose with spring installed last night.
All that it left is adding oil, and also coolant and can see what it sounds like.
That springs was somewhat hard to find, so for oneone else looking this worked very nice
Should have the exhaust hanger to finish the tail pipe up tonight
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
thanks for the link to the spring, mine has none, did not even know its supposed to have one.

Take a video and put it into youtube, I want to hear it !!!!
 

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Ford Hoarder
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Discussion Starter #447
The "need" is debate-able. Seems like one of those things like what brand of oil is better...
The reasons to have it are to keep the lower hose from collapsing, especially during pro-longed higher RPM events. Hose manufactures will say no longer needed with today's tech, and that only those rigs with clogged cooling systems can create enough sucking to collapse a modern hose. Or that they were only installed originally as so the factory could use vacuum to fill the coolant system.

I am of the opinion that, especially if have a different then stock water pump and engine (like I have), $9 is a lot cheaper then an overheating issue that goes away as rpm goes down. I do feel modern hoses are a bit better, but most things made of rubber-ish type materials act differently when exposed to heat long term, so the spring may also keep a hose from having issues, in the long run. Kind of a your call on weather to use one or not. That CJ's part fit the lower hose great though...

Primed the engine with oil last night. was able to get 65psi of oil so that was re-assuring. Turned it over with the starter as well and no wierd noises, Yes I am aware of potential issue from doing that with flat tappet cam, as in suppose to start it right away for break in.
Finished the last exhaust hanger as well.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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May I summarize?
"Better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it." ;)
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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When I sourced factory replacement hoses for my 460, nearly all of the lower hoses I looked at from various manufacturers came with a spring already installed. None of the upper hoses came with one. My old 460 had a spring in both hoses. I figure one in the lower hose alone is good enough as it's getting sucked through the bottom and pushed out the top. Probably not going to collapse the top if there is no suction there.
 

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Yup, not too sure the springs are necessary, had to use a f150 radiator tube as a gas tank filler tube since they don't make them for 78's anymore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
Just to get it right, spring is mounted outside the hose, this I will understand.
Engine knicks when Bein rev‘ed but sure radiator is fixed hence lower and upper hose are moved around in between.
 

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Just to get it right, spring is mounted outside the hose, this I will understand.
Engine knicks when Bein rev‘ed but sure radiator is fixed hence lower and upper hose are moved around in between.
I believe the spring is supposed to be inside of the hose to prevent it from "collapsing" when bending it to fit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #454
Kinda of odd that you found all of them had springs, but I could not find one with springs. However I use/was looking for the 351M hoses as they fit the best in my 78. Maybe should of looked for 78/79 F-350 460 hoses... Agree that top is not needed.

The spring should go on the inside, as so the water pump does not make it collapse on its self. The one I linked is Stainless, I am not sure if "ALL" of the springs you get with a hose are.
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Kinda of odd that you found all of them had springs, but I could not find one with springs. However I use/was looking for the 351M hoses as they fit the best in my 78. Maybe should of looked for 78/79 F-350 460 hoses... Agree that top is not needed.

The spring should go on the inside, as so the water pump does not make it collapse on its self. The one I linked is Stainless, I am not sure if "ALL" of the springs you get with a hose are.
Yeah, I'm not sure if every single one had a spring in the lower hose, but from what I remember nearly all did.

This is what I put on mine. I used my old 75 F-150 w/460 as my search vehicle.

 

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Discussion Starter #456
Makes engine noises now. Since just me today I did not get video due to needing to be on top of things to break cam in.
Could not get that Quick Fuel Carb to co-operate so my trusty street demon is on it right now. The quick fuel kept flooding the engine. Not sure whats up with that.
In the process of figuring that out, the start crapped out so I now have it setup to run a PMGR starter like my '96 f-250 has. Which led to more wiring and wiring cleanup.
In the mix I took the spark plug wires off, and took the seperators off as needed room to change timing.

Once cam broke in all the way will be sure to post up a video.

Good news it runs, doesn't leak coolant, or leak it into the oil. Big Huge flowmaster sounds good, though likely little loud for the dunes still.
 

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Discussion Starter #457
Current fuel feeding situation, lol

Love how crappy it looks on the good engine
 

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What is the quick fuel carb doing? Pouring fuel out the boosters when idling or running super rich?
 

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Discussion Starter #459 (Edited)
First the floats were basically not set, they were all the way up, needle not even hitting. Also the side bowls needed tightened, no big deal there. The Accel pump diaphragm wasn't sealing so had to replace it... Last I tried was not leaking externally, but appears to be leaking into intake... Not great for a carb that was supposed to be preset for my application. It's almost like it made it to box, with nothing dialed in. I'm not sure if super rich setting or still leaking from somewhere.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
looks tiny on that engine, so it its was all "up" at floats, that will be part of the reason,

could you dial it in?

but it was making noise, now don't polute your good break in oil with too much fuel.
 
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