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So after saving up for my lift, I've decided to buy a house. I am in need of a few inches to reinstall my bumper (grabs my 35's). Here's the deal. I have a brand new set of f250 coils (about 1.5" taller than stock) and I was considering installing those on top of my daystar leveling "pucks", then doing a SKY shackle flip out back. Rock Auto sells a balljoint eccentric with an amazing amount of adjustment...somewhere in the 3.5* range if I remember. What I'm wondering is am I forgetting anything here? I was doing alllooot of researching on different lifts and hadn't really decided on one. Now, all the money I put back is going somewhere else. So please, don't tell me how dumb it is or anything. I'd ultimately like a long travel system with about 5-6" of lift so this is only temporary so I can legally operate my truck until I have the extra money. Thanks guys!
 

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just.....stop. you will destroy your ttb by stuffing 35's on it with that lift...from what i see you are gunna have about 4'' of lift in the front if you do the f250 coils with the pucks...theres a reason they say that you NEED the drop brackets for 4'' or more of lift with the TTB. the way i see it, its either one or the other...f250 coils or the pucks.
 

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Just hack your bumper. Or if really need a bumper just bolt a piece of channel with tabs welded onto it. Lol. I don't know your rig but my 92 F1 has 33" tires on it with no lift and I only had to grind a very small part of the inside/bottom corner to get it to not rub. Can't imagine why you would t be able to put a spacer on the bumper to have it stick out an inch or 2
 

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trim the bumper. if your gonna run big tires, you have to make clearance. a lit will help, but as soon as that wheel starts to travel up, it's right back where it was again and your back to rubbing the bumper.

or.. +1 on swapping in some 33s.

by the way, you can do a shackle flip in the rear for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ya, that's kind of what I was starting to think. I'm kind of looking to avoid drop brackets all around as they are kind of a band-aid lift. I'll probably just run the 3/4 ton springs for now and sack up and trim the bumper. I had 33's before and really felt they didn't provide much axle clearance in some of the deeper snows we got last year. And as far as the free shackle flip goes rhuaf, Ive heard of a couple people having the stock shackles collapse when inverted. I do tow a small amount (mostly slide off recoveries in the winter) and was kind of worried that some of the jerking and pulling would quickly overload a flipped shackle. What are your thoughts on that? I've seen alot of your videos, so I've seen the kind of abuse you put your rig through.
 

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just.....stop. you will destroy your ttb by stuffing 35's on it with that lift...from what i see you are gunna have about 4'' of lift in the front if you do the f250 coils with the pucks...theres a reason they say that you NEED the drop brackets for 4'' or more of lift with the TTB. the way i see it, its either one or the other...f250 coils or the pucks.
+1 no chance on doing both, and the camber would be soooo bad, its awful enough with just a spacer, i've never seen an adjustment that can go that much of an angle. get some washers and space your bumper out as much as it will go and hack off what doesn't fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
go bumperless til you can get the right lift.
That's what I've been doing. Unfortunatly, some
of the locals finest have been cracking down on stupid random laws and the last thing I want is one of them threatning to impound my truck again over something stupid. Plus, being winter, if I was to slide into someone I could catch a real a$$ reamin from their and my insurance for not operating with a DOT approved bumper. I'll just break out the angle grinder and stop at Ace for a few dozen washers for now.
 

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just.....stop. you will destroy your ttb by stuffing 35's on it with that lift...from what i see you are gunna have about 4'' of lift in the front if you do the f250 coils with the pucks...theres a reason they say that you NEED the drop brackets for 4'' or more of lift with the TTB. the way i see it, its either one or the other...f250 coils or the pucks.
AGREED!
 

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Ya, that's kind of what I was starting to think. I'm kind of looking to avoid drop brackets all around as they are kind of a band-aid lift. I'll probably just run the 3/4 ton springs for now and sack up and trim the bumper. I had 33's before and really felt they didn't provide much axle clearance in some of the deeper snows we got last year. And as far as the free shackle flip goes rhuaf, Ive heard of a couple people having the stock shackles collapse when inverted. I do tow a small amount (mostly slide off recoveries in the winter) and was kind of worried that some of the jerking and pulling would quickly overload a flipped shackle. What are your thoughts on that? I've seen alot of your videos, so I've seen the kind of abuse you put your rig through.

Drop brackets on the axle pivot joints are usually fine, so long as they are good quality drop brackets. the rancho ones i had on my bronco held up great, even jumping the piss out of it and bottoming it out, with the drop brackets digging huge divots in the ground where i landed, they never broke. same goes for the rear shackle flip, that includes towing plenty, often times heavier pulls than i should be doing with a short wheel base truck. i only had one break, that was because someone tried to pull me out sideways, and he hooked the chain to my leaf spring.. serves me right for not hooking up my own chain i suppose.

drop brackets on the radius arms are a horrible idea, i've seen frames give and bend and the brackets end up touching/rubbing on/hitting the transmission, and that wasn't even on a truck that was wheeled hard. there are other reasons they are bad, too.

speaking of drop brackets on the radious arms.. if you leave your stock radius arms, with NO drop brackets, and manage to lift the truck by installing taller/stiffer springs, you are going to have a caster angle problem, and steering is going to be "scary".. you will need to extend your radius arms at the minimum, something to keep the caster angle on the axle correct.


click these thumbs for bigger pictures..

In this pic i'm plowing a bit with my drop brackets...


this was taken a moment later, all that dirt "splash" was kicked up by the TTB/drop brackets.
 

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Drop brackets on the axle pivot joints are usually fine, so long as they are good quality drop brackets. the rancho ones i had on my bronco held up great, even jumping the piss out of it and bottoming it out, with the drop brackets digging huge divots in the ground where i landed, they never broke. same goes for the rear shackle flip, that includes towing plenty, often times heavier pulls than i should be doing with a short wheel base truck. i only had one break, that was because someone tried to pull me out sideways, and he hooked the chain to my leaf spring.. serves me right for not hooking up my own chain i suppose.

drop brackets on the radius arms are a horrible idea, i've seen frames give and bend and the brackets end up touching/rubbing on/hitting the transmission, and that wasn't even on a truck that was wheeled hard. there are other reasons they are bad, too.

speaking of drop brackets on the radious arms.. if you leave your stock radius arms, with NO drop brackets, and manage to lift the truck by installing taller/stiffer springs, you are going to have a caster angle problem, and steering is going to be "scary".. you will need to extend your radius arms at the minimum, something to keep the caster angle on the axle correct.


click these thumbs for bigger pictures..

In this pic i'm plowing a bit with my drop brackets...


this was taken a moment later, all that dirt "splash" was kicked up by the TTB/drop brackets.

I agree 100%, the drop brackets, especially from rancho are strong enough to withstand the abuse. When I lived in Pismo I would watch my buddy launch his truck and get 6 or 7 feet of air off the dunes and come smashing down... with no damage done to his suspension. And also if you do manage to get 4 inches of lift without the brackets or cutting and turning your beams your steering is going to wander and be super sketchy. Not to mention dangerous :tinfoil
 

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You may want to just be patient and do a bit of craigslist shopping. I just picked up a brand new six inch kit with brake lines, new urothane bushings, 6 shocks, dual stabilizer kit, and all new hardware for 250 bucks. I threw the add a leaves and blocks in the scrap pile and picked up a shackle flip kit from jbg for the rear. So for 400 bucks and 6 hours of my time I now have a properly lifted bronco for cheap. Lift kits are a dime a dozen if your willing to do a bit of searching. I also did the tie rod flip while I was putting on the lift, cost me 78 for the reamer tool and took about 15 extra minutes. So i'm at 500 for everything and it drives better than stock. Don't hack it up, just shop around.
 

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Just the Moog844 coil springs. But not the HD ones.
i couldnt find those on their site. im looking to get some from pull a part.thats why i was wondering what year. and if i need the ones for a 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive f250. tyin to stay cheap. this is a trail truck. lol.
 

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Whats the difference in the newer superduty coils and these older models? I am looking around for some coils to put under my front after swapping in a Cummins 6bt. I would like a little lift after the fact so I can run some 33 or 35s. I eventually plan on going 1ton at both ends, but in the mean time most of my free time and attention will need to be focused on my engine swap.
 

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Where did you get the reamer for the tie rod flip?
Speedway motors sells one for $75 or so. Or you can buy the proper sleeve from ruff stuff and not worry about finding a reamer. Talk to Dan over there @ ruff stuff he will help you out.
 
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