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Discussion Starter #1
Pretty close to buttoning up my 14 bolt and putting it under the bronco finally. Just need to set the backlash and pinion depth (cheesy easy), but...

I've destroyed 1 breaker bar and 1 (albeit kinda small) pipe wrench trying to get the crush sleeve to budge for setting pinion bearing preload :banghead :banghead :banghead

Short of pulling the pinion assembly, pulling out the nice new seal, and taking it to my buddies shop where he could use his press to exert enough pressure to "start" the crush sleeve crushing, anyone have any practical suggestions? Damn I prefer solid spacers.... (but all in all, the 14 bolt is still far easier to setup than any Dana axle...)
 

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Be a Man j/K
It takes about 600-800FT lbs to start the crush on a 14 bolt.
I hit them with a impact gun SLOWLY.
But I also have heated them up tossed them in, and then crushed them, removed the yoke and put a seal in and done.
 

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tried to get a spacer instead??? at the shop we have a tool that goes around the pinion (looks like a magicians staff or something.. it's about a four foot long bar with a 1/4" steel plate at the end with a cut out rectangle that fits around the pinion) and also the biggest breaker bars i've ever seen
 

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Discussion Starter #4
bigbroncojeff said:
tried to get a spacer instead??? at the shop we have a tool that goes around the pinion (looks like a magicians staff or something.. it's about a four foot long bar with a 1/4" steel plate at the end with a cut out rectangle that fits around the pinion) and also the biggest breaker bars i've ever seen
Every kit I've seen for the 14b comes with a crush sleeve, haven't seen a solid spacer for it... Marks idea of heating up the crush sleeve is some pretty good thinking though, and I may give that a shot. Otherwise I guess I'll just take it up to the machine shop and let matt take care of it with the press... Once it starts crushing, it shouldn't be so bad, it just takes a shitton of force to get it going.
 

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bigbroncojeff said:
tried to get a spacer instead??? at the shop we have a tool that goes around the pinion (looks like a magicians staff or something.. it's about a four foot long bar with a 1/4" steel plate at the end with a cut out rectangle that fits around the pinion) and also the biggest breaker bars i've ever seen
Like this :)
http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/i-68_yoke_torque_tool.html
 

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I used 3/4" breaker bar with a 6 ft pipe on mine clamped in the vise. no problems yet from it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
jopes said:
I used 3/4" breaker bar with a 6 ft pipe on mine clamped in the vise. no problems yet from it.
for the 1 1/2" socket, did you use a standard 3/4" socket, or an impact type? And did you have any problems with it fitting the inner diameter of the yoke? The only 1 1/2" I have right now is a 1/2", so I'll probably have to pick up a new one, as theres no way in hell an adapter will survive that much torque.
 

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I use my 2' Snap-On 1/2" breaker bar with a 3' cheater and a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter for the socket. Works fine. It takes everything I have to get a 14-bolt started, but it does work. This is a case where quality tools are required. I've had my Snap-On breaker bent over almost in half and it takes it. Cheaper breakers will...well...break...

Do NOT use an impact to crush a crush sleeve, EVER :twak

Sure, you may get away with it now and then, but there is absolutely no control with an impact, and one time of burning up your bearings will be enough...This is a precise operation, and you have to sneak up on the pre-load. You don't get a second chance....

Edit: A little trick I use to fix the pinion yoke so I can get that much torque on it...

I have a 3' length of really strong 1" square tube. I fix it to the yoke using a u-joint strap and get it as tight as I can. Then it let it lever against the floor. This saves a LOT of time and frustration.

Another thing you can do is put a punch in one of the holes in the carrier and let the carrier lever against the housing...this isn't really good for the carrier, though.
 

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peteyg said:
Do NOT use an impact to crush a crush sleeve, EVER :twak

Sure, you may get away with it now and then, but there is absolutely no control with an impact, and one time of burning up your bearings will be enough...This is a precise operation, and you have to sneak up on the pre-load. You don't get a second chance....
QUOTE]
I used to do this too, but after about the 50th diff, I use my impact.
I hope someone does not burn their bearings. If you use an impact, and hit it to hard, Just remove the old crush sleave, put another one it and ty agian :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
welndmn said:
peteyg said:
Do NOT use an impact to crush a crush sleeve, EVER :twak

Sure, you may get away with it now and then, but there is absolutely no control with an impact, and one time of burning up your bearings will be enough...This is a precise operation, and you have to sneak up on the pre-load. You don't get a second chance....
QUOTE]
I used to do this too, but after about the 50th diff, I use my impact.
I hope someone does not burn their bearings. If you use an impact, and hit it to hard, Just remove the old crush sleave, put another one it and ty agian :thumbup
I'd need a much bigger impact than the one I have I think... what kind of impact you using Mark? And is it sufficient to get the job done without heating up the crush sleeve?

Something like this do the job?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...L&pid=00919864000&subcat=Automotive+Air+Tools

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00918582000
 

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peteyg said:
Do NOT use an impact to crush a crush sleeve, EVER :twak
:twak right back at ya. Nobody's talking about using the impact all the way to the preload spec. But I'm sure you know, a crush sleeve takes a LOT more torque to start the crush than it does after it has started crushing. I'm just talking about using the impact until the crush starts, then going to a torque wrench. And yeah, if you overshoot the preload spec obviously you have to throw out that crush sleeve and start over with a new one. Nobody is talking about running the bearings with the preload too tight.
 

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peteyg said:
Edit: A little trick I use to fix the pinion yoke so I can get that much torque on it...

I have a 3' length of really strong 1" square tube. I fix it to the yoke using a u-joint strap and get it as tight as I can. Then it let it lever against the floor. This saves a LOT of time and frustration.
I used a pipe wrench to grab the yoke, and attach a pipe on to the handl and let it push against the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
85f150 said:
I used a pipe wrench to grab the yoke, and attach a pipe on to the handl and let it push against the floor.
To secure the yoke, I just welded up a little mechanism that slips over the yoke, with a piece of tubing welded to it that pushes against the floor like you mention. Gonna pick up a new 3/4" drive breaker bar from sears in a few minutes and give it another go... My air compressor won't put out enough air to kick out the full 700 lbs torque those impact wrenches can make (they need like 10 SCFM), so looks like I'll be doing it the hard way still...
 

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JahWarrior said:
welndmn said:
I'd need a much bigger impact than the one I have I think... what kind of impact you using Mark? And is it sufficient to get the job done without heating up the crush sleeve?

Something like this do the job?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...L&pid=00919864000&subcat=Automotive+Air+Tools

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00918582000
Mine are all Mac and Snap on, over kill.
See if anyone around you has one you can borrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
All set, bearing preload at 30 in lbs, on the money :beer I ran to sears and grabbed a 3/4" drive slide bar, which was $20 cheaper than the breaker bar, and doesn't have a weak link in the swivel like the breaker bar does.



That and new 3/4" drive 1.5" socket, and about 4 feet of cheater bar, crushed like butter.

Will set the pinion depth and backlash tomorrow, and hopefully do the shackle flip and get this thing under the truck this weekend :chili:

Thanks for the help guys :drinkbud
 
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