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So I figured I'd try my hand at a tech write up, let me know what you all think,

Also, I know this doesn't pertain to every bronco but there are a few guys on here besides me with Cummins powered fsb's, or Dodge trucks so its a little relevant haha.



So first were gonna start by removing the motor. I decided to do this since it was my first time doing a Hg and the Cummins is shoved pretty far back under the cowl of my bronco.

You can see here where it was leaking if you were wondering.


If you are pulling the motor out, like I did you need to set you engine up so you can work on it. I used a 6x6 and a 4x4 supported by multiple jack stands to keep it level and relatively stable while you're working on it.


Starting teardown- Start by removing the 4 10mm bolts that hold on the crossover pipe aka the intake horn on the intercooled motors.


Disconnect the throttle linkage ( it just pops right off), on a side note don't be to rough with the linkage, the plastic ends are brittle, and will snap right off.


Next, remove the 10mm bolt that attaches the dip stick to the side plate.
Follow this by removing the last 10mm bolt (below the injection pump) and removing the side cover

Here's the side cover so you know what your looking at.


Next thing your going to remove is the crossover pipe if your motor is non ic, skip this step.

Now on to removing the turbo, start by disconnecting the 5/8" oil feed line, and the oil drain line. Then remove the 4 15mm nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. (Since my manifold is flipped one if the bolts is really hard to access you will need to grind down the wrench to get it to fit)


Now, remove the manifold, there are 12, 13mm (1/2") bolts holding it on. If they haven't been removed recently you are gong to want to be very careful and use some heat, if one of these breaks off you’re gonna have a hell of a time getting it out.
You can see here that I bagged and labeled everything I removed, it just makes it that much easier to put back together.

Remove all the valve covers next. Bolt size is 15mm.


Now you can start disconnecting all the injectors (11/16) on the line nuts. I believe (3/8) on the return line banjo bolts, be sure not to lose the tiny sealing washers n the return line when you disconnect them. I labeled all the injector lines as I was disconnecting them. The return line is the small one towards the bottom of the picture


Next, I disconnected the injection lines from the injection pump (11/16")


After the supply and return lines from the injectors are removed you can remove the injector nuts (7/8) and pull the injectors out. Some of the injectors will come out by hand others are kind of stuck and you will have to use some vise grips to remove.



Adjust all the rockers so that every spring has no pressure on it so you can remove the rocker assemblies.
After loosening the rockers, start loosening all the head bolts. Once they're all loose remove the rocker assemblies and label which goes to which cylinder.


After removing all the rocker assemblies mark a piece of cardboard to keep track of the pushrods.


Now before you pull the head off you need to make sure the fuel lines connected to the head are disconnected, there are 2 5/8 banjo bolts that connect the fuel line to the cast filter housing in the head, remove those.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/890557/fullsize/img_0894.jpg[/img

Also going to have to disconnect the water neck and remove the thermostat (it’s a good idea to replace while the motor is this torn down anyways) There are 3 10mm bolts holding the water neck on, loosen them all and you can swing it out of the way along with the alternator
[img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/890559/fullsize/img_0896.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2


Now you can remove the head. Many people opt to use an engine hoist as these things are very heavy.


Once the head is removed you have to remove the old gasket material, I used the plastic scraper pictured to remove anything of size first, then i started scrubbing the blocks deck, and the head with a green "scotchbrite" pad soaked in penetrating oil. The haynes manual says to use 600 grit sandpaper with oil, but the scotchbrite works really well.

The more time you spend prepping the block and head the better seal you will get, I probably spent over 6-8 hours cleaning the blocks mating surface, ( i was getting super anal ha). For some of the gasket removal you may need to use a razorblade to scrape the material off, just be very careful nopt to leave a deep scratch in the head. Just take your time Cleaning!

Its almost impossible to remove ALL the old gasket material from the block without machining but here you can see I'm getting it pretty clean.

As far as gaskets go I strongly recommend to get genuine Cummins gaskets here, the fel-pro's are like half the price, and I've yet to hear any reason why you should run them. Spend the extra money and buy the Cummins parts.
Here's mine.


Now, before you reinstall the head you want to throughly degrease the head and block, I cleaned with brake cleaner several times then once with soap and water and blew it dry with the compressor on both the block and the head.

Also you want to chase the threads on all the head bolt holes with a bottoming tap to make sure all the threads are cleaned and clear. Tap size is a 12x1.75 bottoming tap iirc.

You can now place the new gasket on the head, make sure its lined of properly over the alignment dowels on either end of the block.


Now, carefully set your head on the block making sure the alighment dowels line up and the head is laying flat against the block, after this go ahead and re install the pushrods. Make sure the pushrods are seated in the tappets, you can feel it sor of "suction" in the tappet, thats when you know they're in right.


Reinstall the rocker assemblies and keep the rockers all loose, dont try adjusting any valves yet! Tighten the small bolt on top of the rocker assembly ( not the head bolt) to 40 ft lbs


Put all the head bolts in finger tight. I STRONGLY recommend buying NEW head bolts, even if the old bolts are still within "spec" why risk it?


Start torquing the head bolts in a clockwise circular pattern starting in the middle and spiraling outwards. Many people torque in 4 stages, 30 ft lbs, 60, then 90, re check 90, then 110.
Some also use the torque+angle method which is 30, 60 ,89, recheck 89, then + 90 degrees. this usually yields around 115- 120 ft lbs.
I went in increments of 10 starting at 30 all the way to 90, then I rechecked 90 and went in 5 lb increments up to 115ft/lbs. I will cover re torquing at the end of this post so keep reading,
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/a...4451930-headstuds-install-torque-sequence.jpg

Once the head is all torqued down you can start doing the valves. There are a few tricks here to make this easier, under the injection pump there is a "button" that locks the motor at tdc.

But, on some motors (like mine) the timing pin is broken. In this case you can find tdc by using a stick through #1 cylinder to get it roughly tdc. Once its close you can adjust valves (dont worry well go back later and make the final adjustment) When you have tdc you can adjust intake valves 1, 2,and 4 to .010" and exhaust valves 1, 3, and 5 to .020". Then rotate the engine 360 degrees and adjust intake valves 6, 5, and 3, and exhaust valves 6, 4 and 2.

Once you make these preliminary valve adjustments your valves will still be a little off considering you probably didn't have exactly tdc. The best way to find tdc now that all the valves are in the ballpark is to rotate the engine so that the #2 intake valve is completely open. (its much more accurate and easily measurable then checking piston depth). When the #2 intake valve is completely open (spring compressed) you are at tdc, and you can proceed to re adjust the valves as stated earlier.


Once the valves are adjusted you can go ahead and start re assembling the engine. I started by reconnecting the fuel lines, and installing thread sealant on the sensors and threaded plugs in the intake and back of the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now is also a good time to replace washers and little parts that you normally wouldn't consider such as new sealing washers on the afc boost line.


Next, I re installed the exhaust manifold with new gaskets, as well as a new thermostat. Followed by the intake plate and crossover pipe. I then re installed the turbo.



Install the injectors back in the head with brand new sealing washers, also if the head isn't super clean, you may want to clean up the injector bores with a stiff brush. Then tighten down the 7/8" injector nuts, I don't know the exact torque value, but its pretty tight.

Then I started putting the injector lines from the pump to the injectors back on. Its really helpful if you label the cylinder each line goes to ( it can get confusing). Something else I'd like to add here is you have to install the lines in a particular order to be able to tighten them all down. If your looking at the back of the injection pump you want to install the line that's at 3 o'clock first followed by the one directly above it, you'll figure out how they will go on once you start it.

Once all the lines are connected to the pump then loosely connect them to the injectors (you have to bleed all the air out later)

Now, you can reinstall the side cover with the 3 10mm bolts and reconnect the throttle linkage.


Then, put all your valve covers back on as well as the belt.


Its now time to bleed all the air out of the fuel system, since my motor was out of the truck I ran it off a 5 gallon tank first to make sure all was good and there were no leaks. I started by using the manual pumping lever on the lift pump, but soon gave up and connected a battery and started turning it over. When your fuel system is completely drained of fuel like mine, it helps to loosen the banjo bolt above the filter and bleed all the air out of that line first. Once you have fuel spitting out of there tighten it back down, it takes a while to completely prime the pump and get fuel to the injectors so be patient. Keep turning it over till you get fuel coming out of the injector lines, then tighten em up and see if the motor fires.

Let the engine idle and check to make sure nothing is leaking and make sure everything is tight.

As far as retorquing goes, once the motor is back together, let it warm up idling (NO LOAD), till it reaches operating temp, then shut it off and let it cool for at least 3 hours. After the motor is completely cooled off re torque all the bolts to 115 again. For the next week you will want to drive very easy, and avoid giving it alot of boost. At the end of the week re torque. Then, drive for another week, you can pretty much resume normal driving habits, just don't romp on it too much, and re-torque again at the end of the week. After that you should be good to go, but remember that it never hurts to periodically check the torque of the bolts.

After all this your truck will be a happy camper, ready to run for years to come:thumbup and you can do some cool stuff like this haha


A few notes-
Its recommended strongly that you get your head resurfaced before you replace the gasket, they tend to warp slightly and this will insure a MUCH better seal!

Also, when reinstalling the pushrods and rocker assemblies use lots of oil or assembly lube so everything is well lubed on first start up.

Once the motor is up and running make sure to re adjust your valves.

If you haven't already, now is a great time to get to know your injection pump, aka 3200 gsk and some pump tuning.

You should replace all your fluids before you run the engine oil, antifreeze ect...

MAKE SURE YOU TAKE IT WASY ON THE MOTOR FOR ALTEAST THE FIRST WEEK OF DRIVING!
 
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