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Discussion Starter #1
I have been thinking about front sway bar quick disconnects and have come up with a different idea. I am thinking that if I cur the sway bar in half and then sleeve and pin it, it should do the same thing as if it had the links disconnected. Has anybody done this, and can anybody think of any drawbacks to doing this ? The only thing that I think might be a little difficult would be to make sure the tires are setting level when you go to put the pins back to hook it up again. Any ideas ? thanks
 

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the sleave would have to be thick and simi long as the movement will wallow out the connection and after time may fail. i been getting ready to make quick disconnects for mine and relocate the mount so i can do a knuckle under swap soon. i was going to chop the dog bone mount and weld to some square tube that interlocked and pin that....mike
 

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The main issue by far is strength. Any pin big enough not to shear will probably require too large a hole drilled in the swaybar (hence causing the swaybar to fail), and any pin small enough not to make a sacrifice in swaybar srength will probably shear right off the first time you seriously articulate the swaybar ...

Don't get me wrong, a center disconnect may be a pretty good idea -- I just don't think you're going to get there with a pin connection through a sleeve. I haven't tried to run any numbers on this, so I can't really say for certain.
 

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why not just take it off. I took the front sway bar off, and there isnt too much of a noticable difference on road. Its not like I road race or anything with it, but the sway and grip isnt any less how i drive.
 

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the new Dodge rams have an electric sway disconnect which is excatly that. They cut the bar and use a magnetic dog clutch to lock the two have together when locked.
I think a spring loaded dog would be the way to go over a sleeve and pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My thought was to double pin with hardened pins on the disconnect side and then weld and use 2 grade 8 bolts on the permanent side. The tube for the sleeve is 3/16 wall tube. I know there is a lot of force put on the sway bar, but I'm thinking it will hold with a total of 4 hardened pins. I know a lot of people say to just do away with the sway bar, but there is a difference with it in when you're on the highway, so I really want to keep it in. Any more ideas ?
 

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have you really noticed a major difference on the highways? i've driven my rig on the highway with both bars, only the rear bar, and then none at all, and honestly could not feel a discernable difference. as long as you dont drive it like a sports car (which you shouldnt anyway), i think flat out removing them would be a much easier way to do it.
 

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Removing shouldn't be to big of an issue.. Also the wider your tires the better footprint you have to eliminate the swaying.. (I've been thinking of taking off the sway bar on our bronco..) Only reason I haven't is cause my wife does like to go around corners like a racecar sometimes. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just as a side note. A lawyer friend of mine said "no" to removing the sway bar. He said if I were involved in an accident that it could really come back to bite me if it were known that I had removed a part that was designed for safe handling from the factory. I know how people are these days, and with my luck, I could see that happening to me. I did have the front bar off for a couple of weeks and I didn't like the way it handled so I put it back on. Now I am just trying to figure out a way to easily disconnect it for better off road handling.
 

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TINCUP AL said:
Just as a side note. A lawyer friend of mine said "no" to removing the sway bar. He said if I were involved in an accident that it could really come back to bite me if it were known that I had removed a part that was designed for safe handling from the factory. I know how people are these days, and with my luck, I could see that happening to me. I did have the front bar off for a couple of weeks and I didn't like the way it handled so I put it back on. Now I am just trying to figure out a way to easily disconnect it for better off road handling.
From my experience- I have had mine off for over two years. Small if any difference, and also found out trying to cut it- to try a similar thing, that it is hollow not solid. I gained about an inch and a half of articulation (mostly droop) and this works better for me also keeps the wheels on the ground for better traction- hence the droop. I can't say that they are all hollow but mine was. Taking that off is not making the vehicle less safe as much as having the stereo blasting at 1000w. BTW- LAWYERS SUCK!:goodfinge
 

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You could always try using multiple smaller pins located around the sleeve instead of just one big one. That way the load will be more evenly spread out. The holes will still wallow out over time but you can always make another sleeve.
 

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TINCUP AL said:
A lawyer friend of mine said "no" to removing the sway bar.
Lawyers are lawyers and look at all things through the prisim of the law, which is to say he doesn't know crap. It's a fact that many full size trucks came from the factory without sway bars. If that is true, then it must be safe enough without them. Also, if that's the reason you're leaving it on, then I guess you're going to stay bone stock. Can't lift it, that changes the center of gravity. Better not put on any bigger tires, might change the handling and over work the brakes. Hell, you'd better not take it out of the garage, could be dangerous. For that matter I'm sure your lawyer buddy would also piss all over your idea of modifying the factory sway bar, being that you're not a certified engineer and all. Don't get me wrong, I want you to do to your truck what you want, but bringing in your lawyers opinion is a cop out.
 

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TINCUP AL said:
I have been thinking about front sway bar quick disconnects and have come up with a different idea. I am thinking that if I cur the sway bar in half and then sleeve and pin it, it should do the same thing as if it had the links disconnected. Has anybody done this, and can anybody think of any drawbacks to doing this ? The only thing that I think might be a little difficult would be to make sure the tires are setting level when you go to put the pins back to hook it up again. Any ideas ? thanks
I have thought of this in the past, and saw a similar item in the back of a 4x4 rag about 5 years ago; never saw it again. I agree with the others about the pins. Being in the centre of the bar is where all the torsional force is.

Here's a fancy one for Jeeps, go here and scrol down to "S/T Sway Bar".
 

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Chuck said:
The main issue by far is strength. Any pin big enough not to shear will probably require too large a hole drilled in the swaybar (hence causing the swaybar to fail), and any pin small enough not to make a sacrifice in swaybar srength will probably shear right off the first time you seriously articulate the swaybar ...

Don't get me wrong, a center disconnect may be a pretty good idea -- I just don't think you're going to get there with a pin connection through a sleeve. I haven't tried to run any numbers on this, so I can't really say for certain.
plus it would probably rattle every time you drive over uneven surfaces
 

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If torsion bars were a legal safety issue than all vehicles would have them and laws would be in place to prevent the removal of them.
If you plan on doing some serious off roading than just take them off, otherwise leave them on.
 

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Cut it in half and sleve each cut end with square tube. Get a square tube with and ID just larger than the od of the tube welded on. When on the street slide the larger tube over both sqare tubes on the sway bar. Use a small pin just to keep it located. When off road pull the pin and move the collar to one side. Maybe a rod inside the two halfs (Welded to one half and free spinning in the other) to keep them paralell. You'll also have to weld stops on either side of the frame mounts to keep it sliding apart.

But welding on the the sway bar might not be a good idea. Like welding on to leaf springs? But I really have no idea about that.
 

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what about cutting the swaybar in half, like he said. then just welding some tabs on either side of the cut. make two sets if you're worried about breaking. get a pin from a square reciever mount to go through each tab. you're not gunna sheer one of those.
 

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I have been thinking about front sway bar quick disconnects and have come up with a different idea. I am thinking that if I cur the sway bar in half and then sleeve and pin it, it should do the same thing as if it had the links disconnected.
Heck, try your idea, it sounds pretty cheap, and if it does break you can have my sway bars, I don't need em anymore.
 
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