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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the search of new heads for my 351W with flat topped pistons and Comp Cam 35-349-8. I originally had cast GT40 heads and stock truck intake. I had issues with the heads and I am now looking for replacements. I also plan to upgrade the intake to the Edelbrock 3881. I am running 4.56 gears and 35 tall tires with 6 inch lift. It's not a race car but it does haul my boat and side x sides and I occasionally use it to play in the mud. I'm looking for torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's a budget? I can go as high as $1500 for the pair but I'm more concerned with what will work best together. I could sneak more $ and ask for forgiveness later if that's what it takes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Forgot to mention that I am running Stinger Performance Pimpxshift engine management, not SD or MAF.
 

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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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I would figure out what your hp/torque goals are and at what rpm, then get the least expensive heads/intake that will flow enough cfm at that range for said goals if you're concerned on $$$. Don't ask me what each head flows, no idea. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not really concerned with the money part, more with what works best with the Edelbrock 3881 truck intake and Comp Cam 35-349-8. I wasn't happy with the GT 40 cast heads so now I am back to selecting heads again and I want to do it right this time. I drive my Bronco daily and use it for hauling more than anything and I live in the mountains of East TN. I usually cruise around 2500 on the interstate.
 

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if I recall, you'll want a large cc head with small intake valves but larger exhaust to maximize low end torque. this provides a higher velocity at low RPM to mix fuel for better combustion.

the biggest thing is the cam. if your budget is open, then go rollers for a better opening. I would go hydraulics for streetability and since high RPM isn't your goal. short overlap between lobes. depending on EFI tune you could go with a shorter intake duration as well.

also, after cam, second biggest thing is the stroke. build it as a stroker, and you'll bump the torque significantly.
 

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Given the daily driver use I would go with a 165 AFR heads.
Yes you may give a up a little at the very top, but it should be a little more responsive everywhere else. Though still be a pretty good runner up top too.

That 349-8 cam (which is a roller for everyone else looking at the thread), AFR 165 heads, 3881 intake, similar pistons to end up right at 10:1, is what is in my 92. Also set of 28lb injectors, bbk TB, and a MAF setup.
I am running 33" tire (true 33" tall) with 4.10's but A built C6 instead of an e4od. Very happy with this combo. I know your not building it for fuel mileage per say, but I get 16 out of that combo driving it to work, even without O/D, just as a real world example of how efficient that combo is.
That cam is pretty docile (still better then stock) until you hit about 3500 rpm, then it builds exponentially until you let off. I typically, when messing around, shift gears at 6/6250 rpm but it is still pulling there.
 
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see $1500 is still not really enough for most decent brands of heads. AFR 165/185 start at 1700$ but they do have models to use stock pedistal mount rockers. but do you really want to stick with stock pedistal rockers when stud mounts are clearly the way to go? good roller rockers, pedistal or stud, will be be abourt 300$. stud mount need hardened pushrods due to the guide plates so that's 100$. you can easilly get over $2k on heads

there are some budegt options that sacrifice performance for costs. Edelbrock E-street, AFR Enforcer, and some other like Procomp, NKB, and others. they are all stud mount so you still need rockers and pushrods. some brands need other things like better springs, hardware, valves to work correctly. you can still land over $1500

if you get a good set of heads, i would have a custom grind camshaft made. they dont cost much more but they will grind the cam for YOUR specific application to maximize potential. i dont think ill ever buy a catalog cam again
 

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Agree on the custom ground cam...
Also cry once and do it right. You'll save money in long run. Pick 2: fast, cheap, reliable
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The cam was originally selected to work with the speed density system. I'm not apposed to changing it in the search for torque.
 

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I have a '97 Explorer 5.0 swap project for my '68. Engine came with GT40P heads and I did not want to have to work with them. So I was looking for replacement heads that wouldn't break the bank. After talking with Blue Print Engines, I purchased a set of heads directly from them. I've not installed them yet and it will be a while before this engine runs but the price was good and they stand behind their product. These are what I purchased.
 

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ya thats another budget head option. it still adds up tho. 500$ each for the heads. still need rocker arms and pushrods. i actually asked about them on a mustang forum. couldnt get a straight answer about them other than the valve springs are not good for roller cams.

i guess similar to how Edelbrock E-street springs are too weak for roller cams and actually break. i have E-Street heads in my F250s 302 with new valve springs and they work good. i also asked about the AFR Enforcer heads and they seem the most ready to run because they use good valvetrain components

Procomp heads are known to have bad machineing and comonents. basicly the best way to buy them is bare and have them locally machined and assembled. the springs and valves that come in the assembled sets are very low quality
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the suggestions all. I picked up a pair of remanufactured GT40 heads from my buddy to check. He will sell them to me but I am verifying everything on them. The last set I had wasn't sealing off some valves and the valve guides were way too tight on a few. Anyway, I have disassembled the first head after checking the valve seat for leakage. I have found that the exhaust valve is perfect for a 1.750 installed spring height but the intake side is 1.8075. I have only checked the 1 cylinder at this point. I know I can fix this with shims and offset retainers but how far out is too much? I haven't bought these nor have I made a decision yet. I know the AFR 165's looks good but will I use it all to justify the $1700 price tag in a Bronco. I also know that I am leaving a lot on the table with the GT40's as well. The price on these GT40's are $500 for the pair if I want them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, these heads check out ok with the most of .060 shims to get the springs as close to 1.750 as possible. Now tell me if I'm ok with these heads, Edelbrock 3881 truck intake and Comp Cams 35-349-8 (XE264HR-14). I'm after torque for towing and everyday driving with 35's and 4.56 gears. I know the AFR 165's will more than out perform the GT40's but am I'm going to get my $1700 worth the way I am driving it?
 

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I vote for TFS170 as cast or the new AFR 185 enforced non CNC head. GT40 just can’t compete. Your talking heads that can get above 200 cfm without being massaged
 

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I was on the AFR Enforcer bandwagon until this month, when I learned they're just common Chinese castings with nicer components than Procomps. AFR's literature makes them sound like much more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I haven't considered Trick Flow because I was under the impression that you had to run special parts such as pistons etc. to use them. After reading the description on the 170's, it says to run there pistons if running .550 lift or bigger. Now I am running. 512 lift and flat top pistons with the 4 valve reliefs, will I have any issues with valve to piston clearance?
 

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its something you have to always check. cam is a determining factor in it also. if it doesn't clear then you need to fly cut reliefs in pistons.

most people use modeling clay to check it. i used a dial indicator on the valve retainer with checker springs so i can measure my clearance at different points of the stroke. when its at a specific spot to check you push down on the rocker arm to see how much clearence till thevalve touches the piston. on my 408 stroker build with AFR205 heads and custom grind cam, i had 0.120" clearance on the exhaust and 0.240" on the intake.
 
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